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Genuine shell cordovan shoes

Lefty

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,639
Location
O-HI-O
My dream shell boots will come from Leather Soul Hawaii (these are Aldens)
sf1.jpg


or Ron Rider
2-dec-08-047.jpg
 

cookie

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5,927
Location
Sydney Australia
Shell is very popular over on Style Forum and Askandy. You probably know the origin of the leather.

Aficionados of the leather scream for its qualities but I do not have a pair of these shoes though I sold a pair once.

I don't know what the fuss is about but they last about 20 years usually. They have a particular lustre and crease differently to calf...more like a roll than a crease. They don't require much polishing...more buffing.

Horween in Chicago is the main source of the leather though Italians and Germans also make it.

There are a couple of pairs for sale by Florsheim on the 'Bay at the moment that are NOS.
 

HungaryTom

One Too Many
Messages
1,204
Location
Hungary
Not Only Alden and Allen Edmonds

He also does...

http://www.fabulashoes.hu/gb/index_termekeink.php

Mr. Fabula László - the leather Soul from Dömsöd
berlin_oxblod_2.jpg


Another HUN guy who does nice shoes
http://www.koronya.com/page1.php

It is not only Mr. Vass who does shell cordovan boots
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/3786/ulastchukkabootbrownshellcordovanfq7.jpg

While we are here - did you notice the color difference of Alden and Allen Edmonds? Their Shell cordovanns seem to be much more intense in their color. The Horween Cordovan shells have namely this less intense color displayed on these Hungarian shoes.
 

norton

One of the Regulars
Messages
151
Location
Illinois
I have a number of pairs of shell including the Alden hand sewn leisure and saddle shoe and I really like it. Besides being long lasting and easy to care for, as previously mentioned, it seems to conform to your foot with wear and be very comfortable. I really like it because the #8 goes with just about anything.
 

zetwal

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,343
Location
Texas
Hungary Tom - what would a pair of shoes like the Cordovan shown cost? I went to the website but don't see prices. Maybe the prices are there, I just don't see 'em for some reason. Any ideas?
 

The Shooman

Practically Family
Messages
550
Location
AUSTRALIA
l have one pair of AE Stocksbridge wingtips. lt's not really a dressy leather so i'm not overly excited about them, but they are a tough old leather that should age really well. The thing l like is that they are low maintainance (don't need to polish them much). A real drawback for me is that they are noticeably warmer on the feet than normal calfskin shoos.

l'm going to be ordering a Vass F last captoe in black shell soon.
 

norton

One of the Regulars
Messages
151
Location
Illinois
zetwal said:
Hungary Tom - what would a pair of shoes like the Cordovan shown cost? I went to the website but don't see prices. Maybe the prices are there, I just don't see 'em for some reason. Any ideas?

Cordovan generally starts at around $500. Alden is usually in the $500-600 range.
 

HungaryTom

One Too Many
Messages
1,204
Location
Hungary
norton said:
Cordovan generally starts at around $500. Alden is usually in the $500-600 range.
I did the price check this week. The currently quoted price for the pictured Shell Cordovan ankle boot with leather soles is 360 EUR which is 464 USD.

For this reason –getting a made-to-measure shoe @ attractive price - I was contacted by a few loungers since I am around here.

Fabula the shoemaker was kind enough to send the measuring paper, with quite self –explanatory pictogram but the text is in Hungarian so I translated it. The sole must be also measured with a pencil (not a pen) being hold in a 90 degree against the paper and draw it around your feet – sounds easy but is not easy.

The translation is not the problem- it is to take the accurate measures like the master shoemaker does. I think the only solution is to get the mesurements taken by the person who works from it. I am saying this since I met all the 3 different shoemakers in person who did my MTM shoes and tried on all hand-made RTW shoes in the shops before purchasing.

Measuring takes approx. 30 minutes; while the shoemaker measures, we discuss, feet are ’analyzed’ and eventual orthopedic deformities are recorded: pied plat, having permanent/removable inlays for pied plat, hammer/claw toes, places where the foot hearts, etc. It was interesting to see orthopaedic patients with prescriptions waiting in the workshop of one shoemaker where I was measured up for my shell cordovan shoe. I felt lucky that my feet are healthy.
If the DIY measuring at home is inaccurate and the shoes don’t fit – it is a loss to all and each cent is a waste of money.

Anyhow here is the measurement sheet with a pictogram:
Mretvtelilap.jpg


TRANSLATION
(MEASURING SHEET Date 19??,- it is already a Historical one, Order Nr., Item Nr. , Client details: Name, Address, Payment mode, delivery deadline, Model ordered, description: like leather/rubber sole, Upper leather in what color, what leather, orthopaedic remarks if any, how many pairs to be made etc. )
Than comes the pictogram:
RIGHT / LEFT

This sheet is good for all kinds of footwear.
For riding boots, measures 1-9 must be provided. 1-5 are needed for the ankle boot, 1-4 are sufficient for shoes. The measures from 1 – 9 are to be indicated for BOTH feet and in centimeters.
***
Cookie, that shell is huge – I think these Grade 1 shells from Shires and Percherons are transformed into those 4000 EUR Cordovan bags by some leatherworkers.
 

Doug C

Practically Family
Messages
729
I know I'm gonna get blasted for this, but I have to say it... I just don't get what all the fuss is for, with the shell cordovan. To me it just looks a little stiff and doesn't seem comfortable as some other choices. Also it doesn't look like what I think of as nice leather. I can't really stand the high luster almost reminds me of patent leather [huh] . I mean I like the high lustre you get from a good polish on regular high end leathers. Those leathers look better as the shoe ages when polished but the shell cordovan doesn't have that feel to it - particularly with boots. I like a leather that could use a good polish every once in a while. Cordovan reminds me so much of the cheap leather that was on my Bostonian Raleighs and also what was on the cheap officer low quarter dress shoes from WWII Impressions that I bought and returned a while back. It's almost like "you know, we can market this cordovan as something really special and expensive because there is relatively little of it." Then everyone jumps on the bandwaggon as it were, just because it's supposed to be so special. I suppose it just appeals to a different type individual than I - sorry you guys, not trying to knock anyone's preference, just stateing MHO. Am I alone here ?

Doug C
 

cookie

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,927
Location
Sydney Australia
Shell Cordovan -but..tock piece

I cut that shell picture from an SF members photo of a Japanese shop that sells shell shoes. There is a Japanese shell cordovan manufacturer apparently.

Doug C said:
I know I'm gonna get blasted for this, but I have to say it... I just don't get what all the fuss is for, with the shell cordovan. To me it just looks a little stiff and doesn't seem comfortable as some other choices. Also it doesn't look like what I think of as nice leather. I can't really stand the high luster almost reminds me of patent leather [huh] . I mean I like the high lustre you get from a good polish on regular high end leathers. Those leathers look better as the shoe ages when polished but the shell cordovan doesn't have that feel to it - particularly with boots. I like a leather that could use a good polish every once in a while. Cordovan reminds me so much of the cheap leather that was on my Bostonian Raleighs and also what was on the cheap officer low quarter dress shoes from WWII Impressions that I bought and returned a while back. It's almost like "you know, we can market this cordovan as something really special and expensive because there is relatively little of it." Then everyone jumps on the bandwaggon as it were, just because it's supposed to be so special. I suppose it just appeals to a different type individual than I - sorry you guys, not trying to knock anyone's preference, just stateing MHO. Am I alone here ?

Doug C

Okay here are a couple of examples of aged well treated vintage shell shoes...what say ye to Doug C?


IMG_1983.jpg
 

Doug C

Practically Family
Messages
729
I have to say that I don't hate those, I even like them to a degree, the spectators are really nice. I also should confess that I haven't really seen many older worn in pairs either and these pictured above are a bit better looking than most (to me). But still if I lined those up amongst other fine dress shoes of varying leathers - and I had never heard the term 'shell cordovan' or had any knowledge of it - these would probably not make my cut because of the general look of the material compared to other shoes. Yes, they're nice if your someone who likes the look but I guess it's more the premium that one has to pay for them that gets me, when other shoes look as good or better in my own eyes. Maybe cordovan is just a step up in terms of dress, like french cuffs and cuff links - so I can't relate.

Doug C
 

kaiser

A-List Customer
Messages
401
Location
Germany, NRW, HSK
I have a pair of Alden Wingtips in Shell Cordovan. The are really well made and have a very good fit. At the 400 Euros that they cost I would say that they are worth the money as I think that they will age well and last a long time.
 

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I'll Lock Up
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5,927
Location
Sydney Australia
Tomasso said:
These two pairs appear to be calf rather than shell.

See what I mean...they were both advertised as shell. You are right of course on closer inspection - no roll ...just crease.

Doug C said:
Am I alone here ? Doug C

The jury is out...but a pair of some of those whiskey shell and hard to obtain shell colours leaves you itching for a pair ...if you had the dosh!


2940813333_7156ba3684.jpg
3019631434_eb5e237483.jpg
3241647454_e8380a4101_b.jpg
2881463047_a9cd7e831d.jpg
 

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