Recent content by Grimstar

Oh, I know... I know exactly what you mean. Here's the best of my experiences. I was at the Biltmore Inn on Biltmore estate. (The largest private residence in America, built by George Vanderbilt, currently owned by his grandson...open for tours, definitely a must-see if you're in this part of...

wackyvorlon, as far as resorces for learning the trade, there are two ways to go about it, if you don't have an actual person to show you. The first is reading. "Classic Tailoring Techniques" by Roberto Cabrera is one of the best books that I've found. There are one or two small errors or...

Not that I'm aware of.... :o (duck and cover...duck and cover...)

Very true...and a good custom suit can be altered...far more than off the rack can be, usually. ;)

I think my favorite "dish" comes down to a choice between Kat, Magneto, and Decodoll.... or at least their avatars. :p (exit, stage left...outrunning the flying tomatoes)

herringbonekid, I've never seen a suit that had the canvas attached to the front darts, but I suppose it could be done...every tailor has their own way of doing things. That's why every bespoke suit is a unique creation. Even the flaws...and there will be "flaws", due to the handmade nature of...

You're right...they don't go all the way through the lapel, in most cases...and the underside of the stitch is very tiny...if you look closely at the underside of the lapel (on a suit that is made this way) you might see tiny pinpricks in staggered rows...those are the stitches. The body canvas...

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Depending on the fabric, it can indeed cost more...sometimes, a lot more. Check out fabric manufacturer Scabal's "Gold Treasure" line, for an example. Vicuna can cost more than $100 dollars a yard. I have no idea how much the "Gold Treasure" is, but it has pinstripes in 22 karat gold...I'm...

While working on something today, I realized I had a chance to get some pics of something most people never get to see. This might also answer the question I saw asked in another thread, of why bespoke tailoring costs so much. This is the lapel of a suit right after the padstitching and...

Thanks for all the compliments :) The patterns for those were both custom drafts, the same as any custom work. I did take the lapel shape from another pattern that I had seen, and adapted it to my own. The two are slightly different as my friend wanted the standard swallowtail cutaway in the...

Yes, yes, and...what the ****... Yes, those top pockets are definitely too small. Yes, it definitely needs a belt...or a belted back, maybe...hmmmm... And, my only comment on the vertical keyhole buttonholes on the front is...what was the guy at the factory smoking that day? That's just...

I haven't been around for a week or so...been kinda busy around here, funny how a new addition to the family will do that... :p Anyway, I thought I'd post a pic or two of one of the latest things to come out of my shop. Definitely vintage inspired, but a bit earlier than most of the vintage...

That depends on just how much "custom" you want...there are places on the 'net selling made to measure suits (or so they claim...I have some doubts) for around $300 US. See Hemingways post on his new suit for an example...from what I've seen, sometimes you get lucky with that (like he...

Well...let's see... I would probably be just what I am now...a tailor. And seeing as how most of the equipment I currently use actually is from the golden era (or older) ...it wouldn't be that much different. lol Just as an example...the shears in my avatar pic are the ones I actually use...