An Appeal to the Yanks Around Here

Marc Chevalier · Nov 30, 2011

Edward said:
Regarding the size of the watch pockets, could that have been influenced by the size of the most popular models varying across each of those markets?

That seems a reasonable possibility.

avedwards · Nov 30, 2011

Marc Chevalier said:
That seems a reasonable possibility.

There is also the strong possibility than British watch pockets were not used for pocket watches but for coins as they are significantly bigger than American watch pockets.

Marc Chevalier · Nov 30, 2011

avedwards said:
There is also the strong possibility than British watch pockets were not used for pocket watches but for coins as they are significantly bigger than American watch pockets.

American trousers had --and some still have-- a coin pocket sewn onto the inside of their righthand trouser pocket. Blue jeans still sport an early version of this coin pocket.

Edward · Dec 1, 2011

Marc Chevalier said:
American trousers had --and some still have-- a coin pocket sewn onto the inside of their righthand trouser pocket. Blue jeans still sport an early version of this coin pocket.

Ah! I had always thought that had evolved out of the watch pocket!

It is possible some watch pockets could have evolved into coin pockets as that detail remained as a tailoring standard but pocket watches were superceded by wristwatches.

Undertow · Dec 1, 2011

Marc -
1. Eddie Schmidt trousers, it was my understanding morning wear required striped trousers. Was this, or is it now, typically the case?
2. Marvelous cheviot sportcoat! Tell me, was it typical of the era for such a pronounced gorge? Or perhaps typical of the tailor?

Qirrel -
1. I find that breast pocket flap unusual. Was that common to the era?

Marc Chevalier · Dec 1, 2011

Undertow said:
Marc -
1. Eddie Schmidt trousers, it was my understanding morning wear required striped trousers. Was this, or is it now, typically the case?

It was typically the case. These trousers are the exception. It's probable that this morning suit was made for an actor to wear onscreen. I got it from a studio wardrobe department, and the label with the original wearer's name had been cut out.

J.J. Gittes · Dec 1, 2011

Mid 1930's Light Grey 3 Piece with Electric Blue and Black Windowpane.
Details:
Pleated Patch Pockets
Belted and Pleated Back
Flat Front Pants
Watch Pocket
Butterscotch colored Vegetable Ivory Buttons

J.J. Gittes · Dec 1, 2011

Mid 1930's Brown Belted 3 Piece with Black and Red Windowpane
Details:
Belted and Pleated back
Patch Pockets
Two Button
Flat Front pants w/ watch pocket

J.J. Gittes · Dec 1, 2011

~1937 Blue Double Breasted Belted Suit
Details:
Square Peak lapels
Woven *mini* windowpane (don't know the correct terminology)
Belted Back with Bi-Swing/Action Arm pleats w/DUAL VENTS!
Flapped patch pockets
19-20 inch circumference pants cuffs
Pleated Pants

Corky · Dec 1, 2011

I agree with A. C.

Kirk H. · Dec 1, 2011

J.J. Gittes said:
~1937 Blue Double Breasted Belted Suit
Details:
Square Peak lapels
Woven *mini* windowpane (don't know the correct terminology)
Belted Back with Bi-Swing/Action Arm pleats w/DUAL VENTS!
Flapped patch pockets
19-20 inch circumference pants cuffs
Pleated Pants

That is beautiful J.J.

Nick D · Dec 1, 2011

Undertow said:
Marc -
1. Eddie Schmidt trousers, it was my understanding morning wear required striped trousers. Was this, or is it now, typically the case?

Morning suits of all one cloth are not, and were not, uncommon. For the more common non-matching morning suit, stripes and various checks were used, with stripes being at the top of the formality scale. There's much more variety in morning dress than white tie.

AntonAAK · Dec 1, 2011

Nick D said:
Morning suits of all one cloth are not, and were not, uncommon. For the more common non-matching morning suit, stripes and various checks were used, with stripes being at the top of the formality scale. There's much more variety in morning dress than white tie.

It is my understanding (I could easily be wrong) that morning dress involves a dark tailcoat and lighter striped or checked trousers whereas a morning suit is all made from the same cloth (usually light grey).

Nick D · Dec 1, 2011

AntonAAK said:
It is my understanding (I could easily be wrong) that morning dress involves a dark tailcoat and lighter striped or checked trousers whereas a morning suit is all made from the same cloth (usually light grey).

The terms were interchangable, Moss Bros. advertisements for example call the coat and striped trousers morning suits. More recently the terms have become more specific.

Mr Vim · Dec 2, 2011

Marc,
I'd say mission accomplished, I am learning quite a bit. How'd that blog turn out? I haven't had the time to peruse it.

Also, I need to make a massive update, since I last posted photos I have two new suits, about a half dozen sportcoats, two new hats and I lost count of the ties.

I also have a nice 1939 DB suit I want you all to take a look at, again photos tomorrow, as I done run out of fuel for now.

Mr Vim · Dec 2, 2011

Alright, well here is the first vintage suit I ever bought, and it was the first suit I posted about when I joined the lounge.

This suit is in incredible shape, I found it in a little vintage shop in Idaho Falls, Idaho. The label reads Fahey Brockman, which after a bit of searching, George Fahey took over the chain in 1945 (http://www.legacy.com/obituaries/seattletimes/obituary.aspx?n=george-edwin-fahey&pid=149997982), which he did not sell until 1967 (see previous link) but as far as history goes this suit, according to the shop owner, was made for the Dean of Students for the University of Idaho back in 1939 so that's before George Fahey took over the shop. It's terribly hard to read the label but you can just make out the date of October 1939.

I also turned up this... http://shop.ohs.org/item.asp?catalogtype=keywords&did=&invid=20366 which is the Fahey Brockman store in Portland in 1920 so these fellas were in business for sometime.

EDIT: I found even more interesting items, here is a advertisement from a Spokane Newspaper from 1930.
http://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1338&dat=19301105&id=ZjsaAAAAIBAJ&sjid=ECcEAAAAIBAJ&pg=3873,1120744

The suit is fairly nondescript, plain front trousers, typical construction, but the material...

The material is flannel which helps out tremendously here in Alaska when I'm out and about and the pattern is very pleasing.

Take a look.

Hoss & da Posse · Dec 3, 2011

Nice suit and really enjoyed the links to historical perspective on its manufacture. thanks for sharing

Benny Holiday · Dec 9, 2011

Marc, this place is never the same when you're not 'here', as much for your inspiring passion for vintage attire as the depth of knowledge you impart to all here. Thank you for all your very much valued contributions over the years and I hope there'll be many many more.

As regards the Jacob Faber suit, I note first the apparent length of the jacket, which strikes me as very Edwardian, and second, I'm intrigued by the lowered belt loops, which I thought did not appear perhaps two decades later at the very least. The various other features pointed out by other Loungers - the shape of the rear pockets and the chevron stitching alongside the side pockets, for instance - are features I've not seen on any suit before, though I can't say I've studied suits of that vintage in person.

scotrace · Dec 9, 2011

herringbonekid said:
here's a pair of trousers in a similar style with two front flapped watch pockets, dated 1926.
they also have the brace-buttons on outside-back only as Qirrel pointed out:

Holy smoke! I live 20 minutes from that tailor's location!!

Yeps · Dec 9, 2011

Fingers crossed. One of my friends might be making me photocopies/scans of her grandfather's work notebooks. He was a tailor in New York straight off the boat from Naples in the early to middle part of the century, so if I can get these, they ought to provide some very interesting information.

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