They just don't compare

slicedbread · Mar 6, 2008

Matt Deckard said:
I do think that the pendulum is swinging back toward the heavier with Banana republic and Gap carrying thicker wools for their jackets.

Brroks Brothers is catching up as well though it is unfortunately with their tom Browne garments which look foolish on anyone with a penis.

If you believe that, you are the fool...Very well made garments...You buy them, you choose how they fit. They do not choose for you.

As to the disparaging comments towards modern suits...you're simply close-mindedly picking out poor examples. There are fantastic suits with fantastic cuts and light weight fabrics that do not wrinkle whatsoever.

Because some random celebrity is wearing a poor fitting suit doesn't make the modern tailored scene a total failure...

Example of a well made MODERN garment:

Justdog · Mar 6, 2008

Example of a well made MODERN garment:

What do you think the type of fabric was used in the Gable suit?
What are the vintage weights of wool compared to the newer wools?
How does one tell what weight a fabric is if it is only marked VW 100%?
Thanks

Matt Deckard · Mar 6, 2008

slicedbread said:
If you believe that, you are the fool...Very well made garments...You buy them, you choose how they fit. They do not choose for you.

As to the disparaging comments towards modern suits...you're simply close-mindedly picking out poor examples. There are fantastic suits with fantastic cuts and light weight fabrics that do not wrinkle whatsoever.

Because some random celebrity is wearing a poor fitting suit doesn't make the modern tailored scene a total failure...

Example of a well made MODERN garment:

Clothes minded and not close minded... You should wear some 1930's and 40's suits and tell us your experiences and I'll keep telling you about mine with the modern.

Put it on a person and show the pics then leave a comment. I've owned plenty of the heavy weight modern tailored clothes from Hickey Freeman, Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren, Oxxford, and more and more and more till I ended up upset with tailors from US firms and ended up wearing a lot of vintage. Modern custom tailor tend to lose ground when compared to even the simplest vintage off the rack.

Show a pic of the well tailored of modern on a person. Now what did you disagree with? That heavier lays better, or that tailors today in general aren't as skilled?

Put it on and relax in it.... show us how it fits on a body.

I have nothing against modern clothes, just badly made ones that are pushed on the public as "quality"

Shaul-Ike Cohen · Mar 6, 2008

Matt Deckard said:
Thin wrinkly fabric that isn't really cut in a way to give him a great build.

To my eyes, the shininess adds a lot to the unpleasant and cheap look. I'm not sure if he wanted it shiny; it's well possible and a matter of personal taste.

slicedbread · Mar 6, 2008

If you paid attention to the forum at all, you'd know that I own many suits from 1900's-1950's (mainly 30's and 40's). You'd also know that I absolutely love wearing them.

To say that tailors now aren't as skilled as they used to be is a bit inane. You can make the claim that there aren't as many skilled tailors(don't know if even that is true), but never that tailors as a whole are less skilled in their trade.

The only valid point you make is that heavier fabrics drape better...Yes, it's true. It can also be argued that a fairly unskilled laborer back in the 30's had a LOT more leeway in terms of making a well made jacket because the wonderful fabrics would mask many imperfections.

I can't believe I'm humoring you, but here you go...

And just so we don't have any rubbish about how his trousers have wrinkles (due obviously to his stance) and vintage trousers wouldn't have any:

Many supposedly $5,000+ suits can be had for less than I sell many of my vintage suits for brand new (on sale, or on OFAS).

Don't get me wrong, I love the cut, fabric, and fit of the 20's-40's, but never should you say that modern suits just don't compare. Yes, (most) celebrities are buffoons when it comes to style, but the modern day focus is on fashion. Don't go to an apple orchard looking for oranges.

When I first joined this forum, I was saying the same thing as you guys...However, as my love for tailored clothing grew, so did my knowledge... I began to pay more attention to fit much moreso than when I first joined. I'm just growing weary of the endless lamenting of the modern tailored scene. Go ahead and say that you love your vintage (as do I), but at least do a little more research before attacking modern tailored garments. Sure, there are many "fashion" houses with grotesque garments, but there are many more brands that produce great quality, cut, and fabrics.

Matt Deckard said:
Clothes minded and not close minded... You should wear some 1930's and 40's suits and tell us your experiences and I'll keep telling you about mine with the modern.

Put it on a person and show the pics then leave a comment. I've owned plenty of the heavy weight modern tailored clothes from Hickey Freeman, Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren, Oxxford, and more and more and more till I ended up upset with tailors from US firms and ended up wearing a lot of vintage. Modern custom tailor tend to lose ground when compared to even the simplest vintage off the rack.

Show a pic of the well tailored of modern on a person. Now what did you disagree with? That heavier lays better, or that tailors today in general aren't as skilled?

Put it on and relax in it.... show us how it fits on a body.

I have nothing against modern clothes, just badly made ones that are pushed on the public as "quality"

Fletch · Mar 6, 2008

Matt Deckard said:
Brroks Brothers is catching up as well though it is unfortunately with their tom Browne garments which look foolish on anyone with a penis.

In no small part because their close-cut silhouette tends to draw undue attention to said entity.

hehehehe...he said "no small part"...hehehehe

scotrace · Mar 6, 2008

I think it might prove useful if you attached designer/tailor names with the modern examples shown.
There's also no need for "inane" "fool," etc. Passion without unpleasantness, please.

surely · Mar 6, 2008

Fletch said:
In no small part because their close-cut silhouette tends to draw undue attention to said entity.

hehehehe...he said "no small part"...hehehehe

Fletch, you're a baaaad boy!

Matt Deckard · Mar 6, 2008

Well... show me something from this era.... where the waist of the trousers is in sync with the waist of the jacket and you don't end up having two fulcrums. You'd see lower waisted trousers in the 70's where the waist of the jacket and trousers were decidedly placed in areas where they would work together and not create a triangle below the center button.
This suit creases more than the heavier fabrics because of it's lightness and when wrinkled you'll have several hairline wrinkles rather than little to none which is what you get with heavier fabrics.

Where are the modern suits
That looks a good as this? A suit that won't look like a used napkin after a week of wear. Did I mention in the other thread that the luxury brand makers are quite fine with their suits lasting a couple years before the fabric stops holding up to daily wear?

Justdog · Mar 6, 2008

That look as good as this.

[/QUOTE]

Now that is an awesome suit!

Jovan · Mar 6, 2008

Deckard: Is what Marc wearing from your line of suits?

Matt Deckard · Mar 6, 2008

This is another great example of the vintage fits... just look at how well the chest and body is fitted on that jacket. You can just imagine him doing cartwheels because the armholes looks so close to the armpits. very comfortable and relaxed.

Matt Deckard · Mar 6, 2008

Jovan said:
Deckard: Is what Marc wearing from your line of suits?

No... he's wearing a vintage black three pice from his closet.

Jovan · Mar 6, 2008

Ah, nice. It looks a lot like yours, but with a double breasted waistcoat. (You should have that option, by the way.

)

Sorry for going off topic.

Matt Deckard · Mar 6, 2008

We will once we get the fit right....

I do like the one Patrick Stuart rocks in X-Men

Baron Kurtz · Mar 6, 2008

As always, and as slicedbread says, don't go to an orchard looking for oranges.

I firmly believe, and have never seen solid evidence otherwise, that a suit comparable to a standard department store suit of the 1930s or 1940s or 1950s cannot be had today outside the bespoke arena. The extremely expensive designer suits are just that: marked up price due to the brand. They are the same crud you get in the ordinary rack of the ordinary modern dept. store. But to compare a vintage suit as you find it in a vintage store, if you've ever been into one, to a modern bespoke garment is indeed comparing apples to oranges.

If i could afford it, i would be wearing bespoke. I cannot, so i wear vintage.

bk

p.s. Matt D. has a line of suits?

Matt Deckard · Mar 6, 2008

Baron Kurtz said:
As always, and as slicedbread says, don't go to an orchard looking for oranges.

I firmly believe, and have never seen solid evidence otherwise, that a suit comparable to a standard department store suit of the 1930s or 1940s or 1950s cannot be had today outside the bespoke arena. The extremely expensive designer suits are just that: marked up price due to the brand. They are the same crud you get in the ordinary rack of the ordinary modern dept. store. But to compare a vintage suit as you find it in a vintage store, if you've ever been into one, to a modern bespoke garment is indeed comparing apples to oranges.

If i could afford it, i would be wearing bespoke. I cannot, so i wear vintage.

bk

p.s. Matt D. has a line of suits?

Jack and me and you'll see it soon.

Baron Kurtz · Mar 6, 2008

Aha! He wants pics of that waistcoat, i remember. I shall get on it. The suit he was wearing in London was a beast!

bk

Jovan · Mar 6, 2008

P.S.: Sorry if I let that leak if I shouldn't have, Matt. I am really excited to see what you do, though. If you haven't seen it yet I featured your suit on my recent entry.

Matt Deckard · Mar 6, 2008

no problem... lots will be leaking out soon enough.

They just don't compare

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