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  1. H

    White Tie - Double striped trousers

    ====================== End of quote ==================== The modern stripes come in standard rolls, with the edges already folded. That means the stripe is placed with its back facing the outside of the trouser seam; so the stitching shows. But the advantage is that attaching the stripe...
  2. H

    Bally shoe - The Pedro

    Not sure if any Bally store in Asia has them, but won't mind considering other brands such as Ferragamo, Church's or J & M, so long as the pattern's the same; not the Blucher type.
  3. H

    Show some sleeve

    Now I'm beginning to understand why some experts recommend the distance between the last button and the end of the jacket sleeve be 1/4" to 1/2" longer than what other experts recommend; so that if the jacket sleeves are too long, they can be shortened from the wrist end - a much easier job than...
  4. H

    the $64 question

    Hi, Dr. Greg Is it dangerous to slip that $64 thing up one's tie while it is being worn? So sorry about upsetting you, but I'm not a serious vintage dresser; so kindly excuse my ignornace. I joined this forum so that my Full Dress, a bespoke set which I hope to acquire in preparation...
  5. H

    Dress shoes

    ==================== End of quote ================== Is that last pair among the 4 pairs of shoes shown a toe-capped Blutcher?
  7. H

    the $64 question

    Yes, it may be a good idea to replace that worn-out cord with a silken one, so that this new neck tie will look grander on your new fangled suit.
  8. H

    DBs - Corresponding button holes

    Hi, all. It's that rule about functioning buttons again. But this time it's about the corresponding button holes for all the buttons of a double breasted jacket. For example, a 6-button DB jacket. Where should they be? I thought I had better ask now before having any DB suits...
  9. H

    Bally shoe - The Pedro

    My favourite shoe was a Bally shoe called the Pedro. Body-wise, it is similar to a plain Patent Leather Oxford shoe, such as the one sold by Brooks Brothers, except the normal black leather had to be waxed and polished for it to shine. Does anyone know whether this shoe is still available new?
  10. H

    White Tie - Double striped trousers

    =================== End of quote ====================== I agree with you, Shindeco, but I am still wondering how they sew the stripes without any stitching showing. And how the original tailors sew the stripes over the seam to protect the seam. Also, whether it was a braid between the two...
  11. H

    White Tie - Double striped trousers

    -------------------- End of quote ---------------------- What do you mean when you say the satin band is facing the seam, Wingnut? Do you really mean to say also that your pants had 3 stripes, with the satin band between the 2 ribbons? Shouldn't that mean your pants has 3 stripes?
  13. H

    White Tie - Double striped trousers

    Well, the Shenzhen-made Tuxedo pants has the single stripe behind a vertical side pocket that is set into the side seam. The single stripe is 7/16 inches wide. You can see the stitching on both edges of the surface of this almsot half inch wide stripe. One of the stitch line practically sits...
  14. H

    White Tie - Double striped trousers

    Thanks for posting that wonderful drawing of Clark Gable with his hands inside the side pockets of a pair of full dress pants from Apparel Arts, Winter 1936. Watercolor by Leslie Saalburg. Shindeco was right. When I zoomed my web browser to 200%, both of the double stripes could be seen to...
  15. H

    Shirt Sleeve Garters

    Bartender? I think Spiderman's boss wears one too and I used to assume it was used for holding his marker pens. A useful accessory for waiters, too? I tried to get some Shanghainese tailors to reduce my shirt cuff size so that they won't slip the base of my thumb irregardless of shirt...
  16. H

    The covert coat...

    Thanks, Micawber, for the helpful description of the covet coat. I love the idea of putting a lunch box in the inside thigh pocket. Wonderful way to visit a park with a lunch box and a bottle of mineral water inside the coat. What do you mean by wearing one mounted? Is the covert coat...
  17. H

    White Tie - Double striped trousers

    Thanks, Shindeco. I wonder if the single stripe is much broader than each of the double stripes, perhaps twice as broad, say?
  19. H

    Seer Sucker details

    Starting with $15 in 1930 and with an inflation rate of 2 1/2 % per year for 75 years compounded, we get a present day equivalent price of about $95. That Jos. A. Bank SS suit on special offer for $99 looks pretty fine. Quoting Orgetorix: "Now considered a classic of the warm-weather...
  20. H

    White Tie - Bib bosom

    ======================= End of quote ==================== No offense meant to anyone, I just have a feeling it is still better for the white waistcoat bottom to be higher than the bottom of the tailcoat front. Firstly, the sight of a white waistcoat peeping out below the bottom of the...
  21. H

    The covert coat...

    What actually is a Covert Coat? Is it made of a special fabric called Covert Cloth; and if so, what's that - wool or cotton? Or is it longer than a lounge suit jacket? Why the word covert? Is it true such a coat should not be worn on the streets?
  22. H

    White Tie - Bib bosom

    That's interesting, Marc. I wonder what happens to the placket in the front of the shirt. Won't the attachable bib hide most of it? And the shirt studes might be covered, too. And how are attachable cuffs attached to a shirt without cuffs? Would these cuffs need two or more sets of cuff...
  23. H

    Seer Sucker details

    ====================== End of quote ===================== It's still warm (22-28 degrees C.) in Shanghai, but just nice for wearing a SS suit plus boater and loafers. Shanghai has been upgrading its public amenities continually and substantially for more than a decade. There are wonderful...

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