5 Star Californian/Campus Halfbelt red russet goat!

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by ton312, Nov 14, 2020.

  1. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    11,264
    Location:
    Chicago
    Received this guy yesterday and couldn’t be happier. With each build and added specifics, Shawn and 5 Star continue to improve. Special thanks as well to our resident vintage leather PhD , Dr. Terry Mitchell. His images were critical to me getting this right, rather than just knocking off an Arcadia or rebuilding a campus jacket. All the sizing specs from my last build were carried over.
    The key material differences are the liner and hide. This goat is called “red russet goat” and it is literally the exact same color as those older burnt orange/ terra cotta Brimaco CR’s. It’s far stiffer than the seal brown goat. The liner is quilted nylon and is sufficiently warm. I wish I had chosen this for the all weather HB too.
    Here are some shots of the inspiration jacket(s). Obviously, it bears strong resemblance to GW’s Arcaidia, a jacket I’ve long admired. For my build I took liberties with the collar and the cuffs. Broader collar and way larger/wider cuffs. I did this to accommodate gloves more easily w/out fighting the storm cuff, plus they are leather lined for the entire height of the cuff, so they feel very sturdy.
    Original jacket:
    3B536CDB-6712-42BD-9B61-372691664266.jpeg 9872BFFD-CAAF-418D-B9A9-14C0B831BFF6.jpeg EF2C33AF-111B-45D7-A682-8E5967F79309.jpeg
    A campus I used to own:
    6764EF68-8AD0-4AB7-9004-6C2ABBFA9154.jpeg
    The 5 Star repro:
    A6D393B5-0C2C-42ED-B843-B77C346E2EAB.jpeg A033DE9B-821F-46B6-AD10-A24FFC4ED7BC.jpeg 46CAD2D4-69A1-47A3-87C3-903C9B8C732D.jpeg 5FEB2CBF-2F04-4143-AA7C-D3BC6EA9816E.jpeg A6D393B5-0C2C-42ED-B843-B77C346E2EAB.jpeg F01204F8-B210-41C3-9EE1-6D6144E4E1BD.jpeg
    I really love the way this one turned out. I built some hidden personal challenges into this ...things like symmetry and functionality flaws would be easily exposed. Passed the test with flying colors! Gussets work and the front displays perfect symmetry. Zipper is on the right/western side now, although I did not request it. The only flaw I can find is a tiny spot of red dye on the sleeve that is darker than the rest of the jacket. Barely worth mentioning and would be invisible to the untrained eye. I’m delighted with both my HB jackets from 5 Star and this one in particular... I can sneak up on the pumpkin pie and devour it without even being seen. I suppose the next logical step would be a cross zip but I am eagerly awaiting @red devil ’s East-West build to decide. Happy Saturday loungers! Stay healthy and safe!
     
  2. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    7,798
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    It came out great!
    The liner is amazing too!
     
    ton312 likes this.
  3. torfjord

    torfjord One Too Many

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    1,097
    Damn that’s cool! I’m really excited about what fivestar can do. Between the seal and russet goat, which do you prefer?
     
    ton312 likes this.
  4. Psant25

    Psant25 One Too Many

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    1,128
    Once again excellent fit! Really impressed with what you and 5* are turning out
     
    ton312 likes this.
  5. ton312

    ton312

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    11,264
    Location:
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    Hard to say as they are really different and both have their own appeal. I like the feel of red russet better. This is red russet too, not the standard russet which is more milk chocolate in color, this is def more burnt orange.
     
    Zoo and torfjord like this.
  6. El Marro

    El Marro Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,497
    Location:
    California
    Beautiful jacket Ton. From the photos it looks every bit as nice as a GW Arcadia and I love the big collar that makes it uniquely yours.
     
    ton312 likes this.
  7. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead Practically Family

    Messages:
    522
    Congrats. Well done. You and Shawn got the mojo going. Amazing details. Love the cuffs.
     
    ton312 likes this.
  8. MrProper

    MrProper Practically Family

    Messages:
    823
    so cool. what a great jacket. i think this is the best shawn has done so far. I immediately get jealous. ;)
     
    El Marro, Bahabp100 and ton312 like this.
  9. nick123

    nick123 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,180
    Location:
    California
    Very cool Tony. Spitting image of the natural Goodwear Arcadia I owned, sold, and was lost in transit. Super shame. Thanks for bringing it somewhat back to life.
     
  10. Rosecitymike

    Rosecitymike One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    174
    The fit on this one is insanely good, doubt it could be better if tailored in person!

    great design too; if this one shows up in the classifieds you need serious counseling with a bag of doorknobs.
     
    Benny Holiday, jonesy86 and ton312 like this.
  11. Metatron

    Metatron One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,483
    Location:
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    Wow! You could probably start a business by commissioning 5* to make your designs and sell them! They are so well realised but of course the design is an important element of that!
     
    Psant25, ton312 and Carlos840 like this.
  12. Bahabp100

    Bahabp100 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    240
    Nice collar on this build!
     
    Claybertrand and ton312 like this.
  13. Claybertrand

    Claybertrand A-List Customer

    Messages:
    440
    100% S T E L L A R!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Very impressive. I'm developing a strong case of envy brother!!!! :rolleyes:

    I've been checking the threads for the big reveal and its way better than expected!!!!!!! I think you and I (and many others here) have very similar taste in jacket styles. The elements you chose--based on the Arcadia are very much in line with what I am designing and I'm stoked to see that Shawn pulled this all off for you. Clearly you are refining your design prowess with each project. This one is bitchen!!!

    The Front Piping!!!!!!!! Or "cording" is great. This is something I really wanted to see if Shawn could nail down. So many of this vintage jackets have this element whether its in pocket surrounds or descending down the chest etc. I wanted to see if he could get that true cord effect with the leather 3 dimensionally or if he would simply do 2 stitches like 1//4" apart and have the "corded" part not protrude at all from the rest of the leather. Like---faux cording effect..... Nope. He got it right.

    This looks perfect. I think the color is really growing on me as well. I liked that Seal you did with the All Weather but this is more pronounced and the design elements really stand out more at least in the photos. I'm sure the All Weather in person shows more detail but then again, that design is more basic than this one. The gussets seem to be perhaps a bit of a risk as the details are hard to communicate on how you'd want them but I figure they could refer to their stock jackets where they have gusset experience.

    Awesome design man. I'm excited for you.

    A few queries here...... sorry for so many....

    Is this Premium Red Russet Goat?? Like, is it the same grade/weight of the Premium Seal Goat you got???

    So you had the cuff leather doubled up basically to have leather lined cuffs?? No Storm Cuffs at all this time to allow gloves??

    How is the half belt buckle hardware?? Did you go into much detail on your hardware preferences??

    How much did this one run you??

    Could you post a side by side pic of your 5* Creations??

    Do you feel your original fit measurements effectively carried over to this one?? I mean, is this a situation where once you nail down true solid fit preferences/measurements, you can pretty much apply those measurements to most styles of jacket?? Like, if you have really good solid measurements that work for a Half Belt, can you just sorta roll with those measurements and just play with the various style/design details to make different Half Belts??? (Looks to be the case)

    Anyway, really good job by you and Shawn. I imagine the level of satisfaction that come from successfully designing something like and actually wearing it and having it all work just as planned is something to savor. I'd congratulate you, but that's usually for people who WIN things---not for people who MAKE things happen. And you basically put in the detailed work on the design end to make this jacket happen. Killer bro.:cool:
     
    Carlos840 and ton312 like this.
  14. Bahabp100

    Bahabp100 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    240
    Can you show the cuff tabs and buttons . Does this build even have them ?
     
    ton312 likes this.
  15. red devil

    red devil Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,763
    Location:
    London
    This is testament to your knowledge of jackets and all the work you have done to dial in your fit! Really impressive! :D

    Not to derail the thread, but I was planning to get the smoke done in the vegtan seal brown, but seeing this I am thinking it might be a better match.

    Would you keep it as Seal or go red russet? I am waiting to hear back from Shawn, I suspect it will be after the weekend, after this we should be good to go! :)
     
    Carlos840, Claybertrand and ton312 like this.
  16. jeo

    jeo A-List Customer

    Messages:
    443
    Location:
    Philadelphia
    Looks stellar! He nailed the design on it!

    Interesting choice not to put a zipper pull on the right chest pocket.
     
    ton312 likes this.
  17. ton312

    ton312

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    11,264
    Location:
    Chicago
    Yep, that’s how the original was config’d and I thought it looked cool and a bit less predictable!
     
    jeo likes this.
  18. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    11,264
    Location:
    Chicago
    This is red russet goat. But I would call it more a burnt orange. It’s a premium hide. I hate that term. They should all be premium imho or not offered. It’s the same weight/thickness as the seal, but it’s a bit more stiff. Areas like the collar, cuffs and for sure the belt straps bear that out. Hardware on this one feels better than the all weather, as does the liner. I’m surely going to send the all weather to Dena and have her throw in some quilt in it. Both jackets have storm cuffs but not decorative buttons. I didn’t feel they were necessary on this one as it’s already pretty busy. Shawn charged me $330 but I sent him $350. Some comparison pics:
    3151CCBA-5126-46B2-9CA7-8AB3248930CE.jpeg
    D0AA1270-EFB7-4416-BE3B-D1AEE235534C.jpeg

    F663D265-F03A-4E78-9417-3E10A18A6E97.jpeg
    12CCA889-07A7-4E9E-BB09-CAB98345163E.jpeg
    D4252267-83FC-4F15-AB29-44D207EB54F5.jpeg 85AA5842-5F86-4BAF-BEE4-86BAB0B45AF5.jpeg 6B72DFA6-7686-438E-A6D5-D10618602524.jpeg E534A4ED-4A85-4DB5-8D84-A2B61A5B232D.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2020
    JMax, red devil, Marc mndt and 8 others like this.
  19. tmitchell59

    tmitchell59 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,621
    Location:
    Illinois
    5 Stars ability to accurately copy a jacket from photos, turn around quickly, while listening to the customer fit issues are impressive. I'm not sure of the cost, but understand it is quite reasonable.

    Bill Kelso has an archive of jackets they will make. They ask about patterning one of my jackets. It did not work out. They did require having the jacket in hand. No idea how this worked for them.

    I have thought about having someone make some of my vintage jackets that are too small for me. These are jacket styles that no one is making. I may have been contacted by 5 Star through my youtube channel, but thought it was not legit and did not follow through.

    The original pictured above I owned was the jacket John Chapman used to create his Arcadia.

    This is a Goodwear Arcadia I owned in Shinki horsehide. So what is the difference?

    DSC03125.jpg
    [​IMG]

    DSC03135.jpg


    [​IMG]

    DSC03139.jpg
    [​IMG] DSC03132.jpg
     
    navetsea, JMax, jonbuilder and 9 others like this.
  20. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    11,264
    Location:
    Chicago
    Thanks RD. Kind of a coin toss on the leather. I like them both! I will say of the two, the red russet tips a bit more 70’s in color.
     
    red devil likes this.

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