Advice needed on (Caban) Peacoat made of heavy cotton twill

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Robbie79, Oct 29, 2020.

  1. Turnip

    Turnip Practically Family

    Messages:
    986
    Location:
    Europe
    Next time I make it to a Manufactum shop I’ll try one of these HR, really like these coats.

    [​IMG]

    Cheers

    Turnip
     
  2. Worf

    Worf I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Troy, New York, USA
    I concur... I've Peacoats made of both... Kersey is like silk to the touch and much more water resistant. Melton is okay but not near as nice. I've Peacoat to thank for me scoring the "real deal". Can't thank him enough actually.

    Worf
     
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  3. MoFo

    MoFo New in Town

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    Germany
    “Elephant Skin” from Pike Brothers is "Deutschleder"
     
  4. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
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    Location:
    London
    Once you get somethign made from Kersey you'll know...
    I have a Crombie Melton wool peacoat and a vintage Kersey 60s peacoat, you would not believe how much nicer the vintage Kersey is.
    Where the Melton is open, a bit rough, not windproof or waterproof, the Kersey is woven super tightly, is smooth and silky and is windproof and water resistant.
    It's really like comparing Topshop leather and Horween CXL. There is no real comparison...
     
    Peacoat likes this.
  5. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

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    1,638
    But isn't that like comparing it with cashmere or vicuña? Workhorse vs showpony. Or is Kersey considered a workhorse as well?
     
  6. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Location:
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    Kersey was the oifficial US Navy wool for most peacoats untill the 70s i think, it was definitely nothing fancy, it's super tough....
    It's just a different weaving method, not really a different quality/grade. It probably takes more time to weave than melton.

    To me the main difference is wind resistance.
    Kersey is so tight wind doesn't cut through, wheras wind goes straight through Melton.
    Because of that the modern USN Melton peacoats are lined with quilted fabric, the Kersey ones didn't need a lining.
     
    Marc mndt likes this.
  7. Peacoat

    Peacoat Bartender Bartender

    Messages:
    5,192
    Location:
    South of Nashville
    @Carlos840 has an excellent understanding of the properties of Kersey and Melton. He is also correct about Kersey being the peacoat fabric during the 70s.* In 1980 the Navy changed over to Melton, and unfortunately, never looked back.

    @Marc mndt to learn more about the vintage Navy peacoat, there is an article that explains all in the Guides section. See link below. It is a definite work and is written by the world's foremost expert in vintage US Navy peacoats.

    https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-dating-the-united-states-navy-peacoat.72058/
    ______
    * There were a few contracts let during the mid to late 70s that called for Melton. All of the Melton shell peacoats that I have seen are clearly marked as such.
     
    Carlos840 likes this.
  8. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

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    1,638
    Thank you, both you and @Carlos840 for sharing your knowledge. It's nice to learn something new about fabrics. Something I didnt know even though I've worked in the clothing industry for years :)
     
    Carlos840 likes this.

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