Advice please on the slimmest fit Café racer brown leather jacket (Like … Highwayman, Schott 141., or other like) & what size to get?

[Tothemax2]

Hi

JP here from SF Bay Area. My first post …Please I would value advice on the slimmest fit Café racer like commercially available brown leather jacket (Like … Highwayman, Schott 141 or similar brown jacket )

I am 162#, 5’-9”, short legs, but super long torso, slim waist +- 31” pants… shoulders and lats on the wider side. I wear size 40R in slim fit sports jackets Like Hugo Boss (which generally fit me perfect) Shirt size are 16x 34" extra slim fit which fit great. All the leather jackets I have tied feel like the are made for someone who has a huge gut and way too loose at the waist .. Can’t seem to find a used one locally which is slim fit.

Am currently looking at two different models (Aero Premier Highwayman Slim & The Schott 141 racer) which I like but am open to any other slim fit model like those who would be slimmer fit. I do not have the mean to get one made custom for $1,200+ but would like to buy a used one for $400-$600

Few questions for the community please:

• If anybody has one you want to part with that could fit me, please hit me up
• Which one of the two models above has the slimmer fit? (Highwayman Vs Schott 141)
• If I get a Highwayman should I look for a 40 ?
• If I get a Schott 141 should I look for a 38 ? the stuff I read seems to advise getting one size smaller for the Schott 141
• Any others you recommend I should look at?

I am asking because much of the stuff I could find used on line is non-returnable so I am leery getting something I cannot return at a pretty high price wihout getting advice from knowledgeable people and this seems to be the best community I could find.

Any and all advice welcome

Thank you

JP

 

[MrProper]

I'm afraid used jackets that are wider at the top and narrower at the bottom will be difficult to get.
Even the standard slim models are still too wide at the waist, as I know from my own experience.
My Premier Highwayman are all heavily tapered to fit the way I want.
In my case, there is also an unusual length that pretty much rules out buying second-hand.
If the length wasn't a problem, I would buy a jacket that fits well on the top and then go to a leather cutter who would make it the way I want on the bottom.
Or then consider alternatives such as 5* who will make you a custom fit for your budget. But I don't want to hide the fact that it takes a bit of experience to achieve good results.

And forget about size specifications for Aero. They are all far too individual. They are at best a very rough estimate.
Always go by absolute measurements.

 

[TheOldFashioned]

Hi

JP here from SF Bay Area. My first post …Please I would value advice on the slimmest fit Café racer like commercially available brown leather jacket (Like … Highwayman, Schott 141 or similar brown jacket )

I am 162#, 5’-9”, short legs, but super long torso, slim waist +- 31” pants… shoulders and lats on the wider side. I wear size 40R in slim fit sports jackets Like Hugo Boss (which generally fit me perfect) Shirt size are 16x 34" extra slim fit which fit great. All the leather jackets I have tied feel like the are made for someone who has a huge gut and way too loose at the waist .. Can’t seem to find a used one locally which is slim fit.

Am currently looking at two different models (Aero Premier Highwayman Slim & The Schott 141 racer) which I like but am open to any other slim fit model like those who would be slimmer fit. I do not have the mean to get one made custom for $1,200+ but would like to buy a used one for $400-$600

Few questions for the community please:

• If anybody has one you want to part with that could fit me, please hit me up
• Which one of the two models above has the slimmer fit? (Highwayman Vs Schott 141)
• If I get a Highwayman should I look for a 40 ?
• If I get a Schott 141 should I look for a 38 ? the stuff I read seems to advise getting one size smaller for the Schott 141
• Any others you recommend I should look at?

I am asking because much of the stuff I could find used on line is non-returnable so I am leery getting something I cannot return at a pretty high price wihout getting advice from knowledgeable people and this seems to be the best community I could find.

Any and all advice welcome

Thank you

JP

I wouldn't consider the Aero Premier Highwayman as a cafe racer (CR). If you want a CR, check out their CR model. If you're wanting a CR but with a dress collar like the Highwayman, then perhaps Thurston Bros Aero Sheene (made my Aero) might be of interest.

Since you're in SF it's probably worth checking out Johnson Leathers. While you said you don't want to go custom they do offer OTR and one offs, so perhaps they'll have something in stock. At the very least you can try on different jackets and probably get a good idea of dimensions for a nice fitting jacket.

 

[Tom71]

You may want to clarify your request:

Your are asking about a “slim fitting” Cafe Racer, yet the Highwayman is neither slim fitting nor a Cafe Racer.
The Schott IS a CR, but I wouldn’t call it slim fitting.

The “slimmest” fitting CR I know of would be the Aero Board Racer. the Real McCoys J100 is also pretty slim. Field Leathers also come to mind (called “Route 66”).

 

[Will Zach]

^^
This. Field Leathers jackets are notoriously slim-fitting. They are "modernized" versions of vintage jackets which can be boxy.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Size 40 suit and 31” waist pants you’d need something that has a bit more drop in the torso than the two jackets you’ve mentioned. If Aero that would be their Cafe racer. It has 6” drop from chest to waist. There’s a lot of them on the used market in CXL leather. Size 40 should fit well. Except you wear 16” x 34” shirt and it may get tight at the neck. You’d have to try to find out. It works for some but not all. Schott mostly have slim straight fits, you’d have to go slimmer in the upper body to avoid bagging out at the hem, so maybe downsize in those to get the slim look but it’s gonna be tight up top. So 38 instead of 40 in the 141.

Or if you’re not dead set on cafe racer looks then the CHP jackets would be good fit for you, big shoulders, strong taper, riding length, and fairly clean design that can go with just about everything. And every American brand has had made a version of it so it’s easier to find them on the used market.

Also check out Johnson’s sale rack, you might find something brand new there that’s still within the budget. The M200/N200 should tick most boxes for you.

 

[Aloysius]

Doesn't really get slimmer than the Vanson Comet. On top of that, it has amazing range of movement. The only caveat is that it's a tad bit short at some heights (Vanson says this directly) and at 6'1" I experience this, but only just barely so at your height you should be just fine.

A 40 in that would give you exactly the fit you want.

 

[chillinginthenameof]

I have an early 70's Schott 141 tagged 46 chest, a little over 24" pit to pit and it fits close like a fashion jacket. I think it's due to having the arm holes cut higher so the pit to pit measurement matches more closely to where you measure your chest. Had a modern 141 tagged at 44 with lower cut baggier arms, 26" pit to pit and it fitted like a tent comparatively. I'm 6ft 2" 47" chest 32" waist.

The Schott 530 café racer has a slim fit, here's a video review, the guy reviewing has a 46" chest and is wearing a size L

 

[Tothemax2]

Thank you for the great info I will check out

I wouldn't consider the Aero Premier Highwayman as a cafe racer (CR). If you want a CR, check out their CR model. If you're wanting a CR but with a dress collar like the Highwayman, then perhaps Thurston Bros Aero Sheene (made my Aero) might be of interest.

Since you're in SF it's probably worth checking out Johnson Leathers. While you said you don't want to go custom they do offer OTR and one offs, so perhaps they'll have something in stock. At the very least you can try on different jackets and probably get a good idea of dimensions for a nice fitting jacket.

Thank you for the great info ... I am so glad I checked here .... already learned a lot.. also I will go check out Johnson Leathers

 

[Tothemax2]

OMG! THANK YOU sooooo much everyone for sharing your wealth of knowledge with me !! I have learned so much, new information, and gotten so many new leads to pursue. I feel I am back on track and going the right direction in my research Am so glad I reached out to this community & so grateful for all the help and advice !

Important learnings so far:

• Always go by absolute measurements.
• Highwayman is neither slim fitting nor a Cafe Racer. Schott 141 IS a CR, but not slim fitting. Thank you for putting me back on the right track
• Much better options for me to pursue

I will be checking out the following:

• ***Johnson Leathers in SF *** will be a great place to learn more, try many jackets ….their sale rack including M200/N200
• Thurston Bros Aero Sheene (made my Aero)
• Aero Board Racer
• Real McCoys J100
• Field Leathers ..called “Route 66” x 2
• CHP jackets - big shoulders, strong taper, riding length, and fairly clean design
• Vanson Comet size 40

Thank you so much everyone !!!

 

[MrProper]

If Aero that would be their Cafe racer. It has 6” drop from chest to waist.

Aeros CR/Sheene is not slim fit, even though it has a taper. I had tried to make a CR slim fit, which didn't really work well. It's a 50s cut.
A Highwayman is not slim fit, a Premier Highwayman is, as are the Boardracer and Vincent.
Despite all this, the standard ones don't have enough taper to fit narrow hips well. With customising they do.

 

[Aloysius]

Thank you for the great info I will check out

Thank you for the great info ... I am so glad I checked here .... already learned a lot.. also I will go check out Johnson Leathers

Oh I'd missed that you're in the Bay. No reason to consider anything other than Johnson, then.

Either they have a stock sale item that works for you or they make a custom that's cheaper than almost all the ready to made options we've mentioned. They're like the Vanson of California.

 

[jkoj]

I purchased a Schott Caf1 in the classifieds here. It’s a size small and fits me perfectly. I would consider it slim fitting. I’m 5’7”. 158 lbs. love the jacket.

 

[ObiJuanValdez]

The Vanson Mercury seems to be cut well for people with broader shoulders and slimmer waists.
https://www.vansonleathers.com/casu...rial_color-black_competition_weight/7-size-32

 

[ryoreyjr]

Hi

JP here from SF Bay Area. My first post …Please I would value advice on the slimmest fit Café racer like commercially available brown leather jacket (Like … Highwayman, Schott 141 or similar brown jacket )

I am 162#, 5’-9”, short legs, but super long torso, slim waist +- 31” pants… shoulders and lats on the wider side. I wear size 40R in slim fit sports jackets Like Hugo Boss (which generally fit me perfect) Shirt size are 16x 34" extra slim fit which fit great. All the leather jackets I have tied feel like the are made for someone who has a huge gut and way too loose at the waist .. Can’t seem to find a used one locally which is slim fit.

Am currently looking at two different models (Aero Premier Highwayman Slim & The Schott 141 racer) which I like but am open to any other slim fit model like those who would be slimmer fit. I do not have the mean to get one made custom for $1,200+ but would like to buy a used one for $400-$600

Few questions for the community please:

• If anybody has one you want to part with that could fit me, please hit me up
• Which one of the two models above has the slimmer fit? (Highwayman Vs Schott 141)
• If I get a Highwayman should I look for a 40 ?
• If I get a Schott 141 should I look for a 38 ? the stuff I read seems to advise getting one size smaller for the Schott 141
• Any others you recommend I should look at?

I am asking because much of the stuff I could find used on line is non-returnable so I am leery getting something I cannot return at a pretty high price wihout getting advice from knowledgeable people and this seems to be the best community I could find.

Any and all advice welcome

Thank you

JP

Have you seen the Schott 530 Cafe Racer? It's a slim fit. I own 2 of them.

 

[MrProper]

I wouldn't consider the Aero Premier Highwayman as a cafe racer

But it's a good pattern to make one out of.
And I think the picture of it fits quite well in this thread

 

[zebedee]

Be careful with Aero Café Racer sizing. Based on my first measurements, I got a size 40 which was too tight, although ok across the shoulders. Gave it to a buddy.

I sized up for my second one - a 42 - which worked ok (just about) as long as it was worn over a thin t-shirt.. The next one I ordered with the same measurements and it's too tight. My weight hadn't changed much, but the newer CR was in a thicker hide and with a thick lining. I think this may have made a difference.

The last one I ordered in a size 44 and it's *slightly* too large, but much more wearable than the others. I'm currently embarking on some serious weight loss (I'll know when I get there, because the newer size 42 will fit and everything else will be a bit roomier). All my other Aeros are fantastic, but CRs were odd, and I reckon it's because I am oblong and the pattern isn't designed for that body shape. Size 44 is great.

What I learned was: at least one size up (if not two), thin lining, Universal zips.