Age of This Tweed Jacket?

[HardBoiledMarlowe]

I recently acquired this jacket and I'm slightly puzzled. Hopefully someone here can help me out. I think it's from the 1920's but I'm wondering if it could be earlier.

It has light shoulder pads, a silk lining, the flaps tuck in to create natural-looking besom pockets, and it lacks a vent. It originally had two large interior pockets, one of which was removed. The lining has multiple repairs, indicating heavy use and the inside cuff lining was modified with a heavy, hard wearing cotton twill material. I'm thinking that it belonged to a laborer.

Any help is most appreciated.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

My initial guess is that it would be from the 60s. But I don't have much to go on. Arm liners, close-ups of the buttons, liner material, construction fo the shoulder seam, etc. etc. etc., would be needed to give a more enlightened response.

 

[HardBoiledMarlowe]

Wow, can I be that far off? I was thinking 1910s. I see where you're coming from, but the lapel and overall style looks much older than 60s to me.

My initial thought when seeing it was, "Hey, that's a nice older high-button sports jacket!" After further inspection, I think it's most likely an outer or work jacket. The top buttonhole is so close to the edge of the lapel that I'm pretty sure it was meant to be fastened. The lining material may contradict the work jacket theory. Also, most jackets I've seen from the 20s and before have a cotton lining. I'm not sure if the cotton around the cuffs is original, or if it was added later. Where it attaches to the sleeve looks fine, but the stitching that attaches to the rest of the sleeve lining is rough. None of the buttons seem to be original, but I'd wager that if any of them are, it's most likely the brown one. There is no evidence that it had sleeve buttons.

Measurements are: 42" Chest, 16.75" Across Shoulders, 25.5" Sleeve, 29.5" Length.

Thanks for your help, Baron!

Here are some more photos:

 

[HardBoiledMarlowe]

 

[HardBoiledMarlowe]

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Thanks for the extra pics.

I'm still thinking late 50s/early 60s; particularly the lining and arm lining combination. Also, the shoulder seam I would expect to be more extremely angled backwards on an older jacket.

But this is all speculation. I just get a "feel" of late 650s/early 60s from it. I may be wrong …

bk

 

[sproily]

I would also say 50's-60's.

Lining doesn't look like silk, more like sateen. Most likely rayon or polyamide.

The flecky fabric would also suggest 50's.

Buttonholes don't look so old.

Buttons could have been changed, but if they are original they are plastic, not even bakelite.

 

[herringbonekid]

i'm also thinking 60s.
a lot of 60s jackets had an Edwardian-influenced look with their high top buttons and narrow lapels so it's not surprising that you get a 1910s vibe from it.

 

[HardBoiledMarlowe]

Thanks for the input, gentlemen. After reading your thoughts and going over the jacket again, I think it's from the 60s. I'm not as familiar with 60s attire as I am with previous decades. It's usually easy for me to pinpoint the age of something, but I've never seen a jacket quite like this before. The high top buttons and lapel were definitely throwing me off course.

I was able to get a good look/feel of the shoulder pads and they're not consistent with what I'm used to seeing in older suits. I've never seen anything other than a cotton lining in suits from turn of the century through the 20's. The buttons are definitely not Bakelite. If the lining isn't silk, it has to be Rayon. As for the fabric, I know that flecked material predates the 50s, but the pattern on this is a little more atomic-y than the earlier stuff I've seen. Additionally, it doesn't have the sturdy feel of older fabric and is most likely a wool blend.

The "possibly owned by a laborer" theory is totally blown out the window. I'm wondering if it may have been used as a costume piece.

At any rate, I really appreciate your thoughts on this matter.

 

[HardBoiledMarlowe]

Hmm... No matter how hard I tried to just enjoy my Saturday, I couldn't stop thinking about this jacket. There is something about handling it and looking it at that tells me it can't be from the 60s. The material is sturdy but not super thick and soft like other tweeds I've handled. I just don't think it's earlier than the late 30s. I consulted with a fellow who is well-versed in vintage fabrics and suits and, after handling it, he thinks late 20s or 30s. The lining is definitely Rayon. I just found this 1941 jacket on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/KILLER-1940s-VINTAGE-ROCKABILLY-MULTI-COLOURED-WOOL-SPORTS-JACKET-COAT-/221161181923?pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item337e3bd2e3.

I really have to go with 30s on this.

 

[splintercellsz]

Wow, love it!

No lables to be found?

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I really have to go with 30s on this.

Doesn't sound logical to me. We agree that it is not 20s but why 30s? I don't recall to have seen lapels like this in the 30s ads (I may be mistaken). Maybe it's just wishful thinking?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

As a buyer of a jacket purporting to be from late 30s/early 40s, I would worry about:

1) the buttonholes (and buttons)
2) the pocketflaps (depth)
3) the lapel and collar style. (The underside of the collar, especially, looks amateurish)

It screams neo-Edwardian. If I can find it, I think I have a solidly late 50s jacket with a very similar collar and lapel. I may be mistaken.

 

[Qirrel]

It looks homemade to me. Wonky stitching, and the undercollar looks amateurish.

 

[HardBoiledMarlowe]

Doesn't sound logical to me. We agree that it is not 20s but why 30s? I don't recall to have seen lapels like this in the 30s ads (I may be mistaken). Maybe it's just wishful thinking?

Yikes! Apparently the G&T's I had last night made me a little crazy. I must say, however, that I quite enjoy Ian Fleming's G&T recipe from Dr. No. But that's another topic. I'd say it was wishful thinking. The lapels don't look like any I've seen from the 30's. I'm back on track now. How embarrassing.

Splintercellsz - there are no labels of any kind.

Baron, I would like to see a picture of your jacket, when you find it and if you have time. I don't know what's going on with the underside of the collar - that's some bad tailoring.

Neo-Edwardian it is.