Avirex Repro Retrospective

[442RCT]

Not wanting to hijack another members thread, I thought I'd start my own about Avirex jackets. If anyone else wants to add their Avirex jackets to this thread, please do, all I request is they be the 'noseart' Avirex jackets. Most 'real' collectors look askance at an Avirex because these 'Mall' jackets aren't a decent reproduction...I'll be the first one to agree, but that won't stop me from picking one up. I'm glad that Speedbird posted a little history about his employment and history with Avirex. Thanks Speedbird. :eusa_clap

The first jacket I'm posting is one I got from a forum member who had it in the Classified section last Xmas.

It's Las Vegas Lady and it was NWT. As Speedbird stated, the inside lining has nothing whatsoever to do with what's portrayed on the back. The back is Ubon in Thailand 68-69 and the lining is WW2 Europe.

 

[442RCT]

Dream Girl - Viet Nam

Many may recognize this 'pin-up' girl from Playboy magazine or the movie Apocalypse Now. I guess Avirex was doing a tribute to Viet Nam vets jacket. Of course the lining didn't match, it was Victory 1945. The interesting thing about the artwork is that is was sewn on as patches instead of being applied directly to the jacket back.

 

[442RCT]

Tokyo Raiders

This jacket was to commemorate Doolittle's Raid on Tokyo. This jacket is unusual in two ways, #1) It's not lambskin like the others. I think it's cowhide, and a lightweight thin leather for a jacket. #2) the lining actually matches the noseart on the back. [huh]

FYI- the cloud did have that pinkish cast.

 

[442RCT]

Seven Wishes

The Doolittle Raiders jacket was based on a real event. Until clued in by Speedbird, I didn't know that Avirex made up units and locations. When I got this jacket, I googled the 21st Fighter Group and Ft. Shafter. Ft. Shafter, Hawaii was the location of the headquarters for the Pacific AF and the 21st FG was activated in April 1944 and based at Wheeler Field, so the jacket back and lining with 1941 was off by a few years. :eusa_doh:

The lesson learned is that one should not rely on what's on Avirex jackets for historical accuracy. [huh]

 

[442RCT]

Sack Time

I think this is my very first Avirex jacket. It was my favorite A-2 even after I acquired some of the others and I used to wear this a lot when I was in college. This was an earlier Avirex before they started pimping out the liner, it was plain cotton. One of the 'benefits' of an Avirex jacket is the generous fit, if you outgrow it , you really, really need to go on a serious diet. All mine still fit with room left over after all these years. As Speedbird mentioned, these run one size bigger than marked, i.e.- a small is a generous medium, a medium is a large, etc.

 

[Speedbird]

great looking collection of Avirex nose art themed jackets

what a good start to what could be a really colourful and entertaining thread ... thanks!

It is almost a lesson 101 on understanding Avirex! This collection very clearly illustrates the Avirex 'thinking' process in creating its theme jackets. Yes, there was a lot more thought went into it than some folk give credit for! Basically there are four 'concepts' at work here: the authentic(-ish) commemorative jacket; the historical, educational story telling jacket; the next generation/remembering our fathers whilst carrying the flag forward jacket (I couldn't think of a short way to put that - maybe later!) and the 'Legend/Hero' jacket.

Let's have a look at 442RCT's jackets in a bit more detail:

Sack Time - from the 1987 50th Anniversary collection of the A-2 (1937 - 1987). As befits a commemorative jacket it remains close to an authentic jacket in design and look. The art work is an accurate copy an Alberto Vargas known pin-up used widely on many different a/c in different theatres. It keeps an authentic style lining. This jacket is all about enjoying the wartime decorated A-2 and leaves the story at that - no embellishments or creative additions, just the addition of the copyright line, name tag and seemingly unnecessary United States Army Air Forces print on the left shoulder in case anyone should be confused about where this jacket came from. A very nice wearable jacket.

Tokyo Raiders - this is an educational jacket, closely grounded in historic truth; not everyone buying these jackets knows anything about history but cunningly this jacket tells the story of the Doolittle Raid. Its art shows a B-25 Mitchell - not a random plane or a B-17 but the actual plane used. It tells us it was a dangerous and risky carrier borne mission, into the setting sun (the pinkish hue to the cloud containing the subtle 'Heavenly Body'/'Flying Woman/Angel' pin-up delivering a bomb, reinforced by the 'fickle mistress of fate' tagline. The bomb toting flying woman is directly copied from the nose art on B-25B "Hari Carrier" (USAAF serial # 40-2249. This aircraft was mission plane # 11, piloted by Captain C. Ross Greening. It attacked targets in the Yokohama area on 18 April 1942. (my source: US Navy Historical Centre online). It even tells us the date of the raid and quite obviously that it was a raid on Tokyo!. I haven't checked this yet but the unit insignias will probably tell us something about which units the crews came from. The lining reinforces this telling of the story in no uncertain terms - the carrier is identifed as the Hornet under the command of Halsey and that Doolittle led a small group of B-25's on the first attempt to hit back at the Japanese on their own soil. It even includes a print of an original photo telling us that the Chinese helped the crews too.

Does anyone want to identify the featured insignia and check their relationship to the story - if there is one? Maybe I will have a go later for the sake of completeness.

In a nutshell, this is the story of the Doolittle Raid - in a jacket! It means that anyone who hates books, war films, school or history can still, even by accident (or subliminally) learn about this iconic event. You only have to look at it to know most of the story.

Part 2 on the Vietnam era jackets to follow. Unless anyone thinks I am preaching or boring the a$$ of you all!​

 

[442RCT]

Heck yeah, as the owner of these jackets, I'd like to hear more of what you have to say about them. As for the patches shown on the jacket, yes they are the four bomb squadrons who participated as Doolittle Raiders: 34th Bomb Sqn (Thunderbirds), 37th Bomb Sqn (Arrowhead with Lion), 95th Bomb Sqn (Kicking Mule), and 89th Bomb Sqn.(Mercury's Winged Helmet).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doolittle_Raid

Thanks for explaining the pinkish haze to the clouds, all these years I thought it was a manufacturers mistake. [huh]

 

[Speedbird]

Disclaimer and sources ...

I should just state perhaps, that I do not work for Avirex Ltd/Cockpit Ltd anymore or have anything to gain by offerring my understanding of these jackets. My love affair with these jackets began in 1988 when I was a student and worked for a surplus shop/high end military/adventure/travel store in Oxford. I was the Avirex guy! After leaving Oxford in 1990 I wrote to Avirex USA begging for a job in the NYC HQ but work permits, green cards etc made that nigh on impossible, so instead I contacted the UK Licensee and began working in London establishing Avirex UK, marketing the brand and setting up the Cockpit Store on Oxford Street. This was my first 'proper' job - it paid badly as I had more or less created my own job but I loved working with the products daily! The owner admired my enthusiasm more than anything else I suspect. In 1991 or 1992 I went to work for the Cockpit Clothing Co in Southampton because Avirex UK was concentrating on the varsity fashion rather than the aviation inspired stuff I loved. Unfortunatey, and sadly, before CCC could become truly great its owner was killed in a car accident and the company ceased trading shortly after. And that was the end of my career in the rag trade; aviation, vintage or otherwise!

I have maintained my passion for these jackets that tell stories ever since. I know people say that the quality of leather and manufacture and cut is much worse than in the beginning - but by the late 90's mid noughties, Avirex was a huge global fashion company and that does tend to change material things but the ethos remained intact at the very top (by the by, the company sold off its sportswear arm and name and is now back to being a small, vintage inspired work and aviation wear business as Cockpit USA, which is a good thing).

The relative merits of these jackets as authentic or accurate designs is not under discussion. My contribution, I hope, is about interpreting the sometimes complex and sometimes apparent contradictions and seemingly glaring errors. I personally think that the jackets are much deeper and more considered than they are given credit for and should not be dismissed so readily. They are, in some cases, quite stunning examples that offer something different than that offerred by the staggeringly beautiful ultra authentic jackets like Good Wear. I think there is room in the world for both.

Anyway, back to the Vietnam era jackets which are much later than my period but as I hope to show the principles, ethos and pedigree runs directly through them back to the early days.

 

[Speedbird]

'Las Vegas Lady' and 'Dream Girl'

Two very beautiful examples and prime candidates for the "how come it is dated for one period and decorated for another?" confusion.

These are examples of what I rather clunkily called the 'next generation/remembering our fathers jackets'. These are examples of jackets that might have been worn by some US personnel in the Vietnam era. They tell their own little stories.

Picture the scene, young airforce guy or journalist (or whatever) about to deploy to theatre. The story goes like this:

"Good luck son, take care of yourself over there"
"Hey Dad, can I have your old jacket?"
"what, that old thing.... ?"
"yeah Dad, you know... it served you well and maybe it will bring me luck..."
"sure son, take it, it's yours!"

And so a 1940's era jacket, maybe with some 1940's decoration turns up in SE Asia in the 1960's, proudly worn by a proud son on overseas deployment who then personalises it and makes it his own by getting it locally painted with motifs and themes personal to his own experience.

Q.E.D two generations of service to the country in two very different wars in one jacket.

The linings on these two examples reflect the desire to let people know they were buying something intricate with a lot of detailing, reflecting a lot of history. Some of it is invention, but Avirex was huge in France and Japan and the French and Japanese love the excessive decoration. These jackets aren't meant for re-enactment. But are they totally inaccurate? No, in short, a quick google search confirms 388 TFS was in Ubon in 68 and the Caravelle was the media bar in Saigon in '68. EDIT: the girl on 'Dream Girl' is recognisably copied from Apocalypse Now - and it is an iconic image but was there ever a real Playboy bunny in that outfit or did the film inspire the look? ... I don't know, but the girl in the film and on the jacket is almost certainly inspired by Mamie Van Doren who was in Saigon in '68 entertaining the troops.

Ok, so this is just my understanding of the thinking behind these jackets that appear so wrong but I think are, actually, really so right. It is to a degree pure speculation on my part but for us in the lounge more than others it should be much more readily understood. People and jackets are not static, they move around and get passed on. We here in the lounge are the ultimate proof of that. Some collect and display, some wear and add new details, new patches to represent their own experiences; some jackets are meant to be period specific e.g. Battle of Britain 1940 as opposed to bomber command 1943 and others are meant to be a narrative telling a story of events over time not simply a time capsule stuck in a moment.

Why didn't they simply make something very specific and correct in every detail without imagined back stories - well, that's not the Clyman ethos which is about telling a story that witnesses history over time and more importantly, Frank Marchese, Jeff's co-founder and business partner is a Vietnam veteran (AirCav). They weren't about to create anything that could be passed off as something other than what it was meant to be. I guess it could be summed up as telling a story, understanding something of a time and a place but the leaving of the reality with the originals.

 

[Speedbird]

'Seven Wishes'

I think this is an example of the 4th type of jacket commonly made by Avirex/Cockpit - the 'hero or legend jacket'. The (in)famous Top Gun jacket is another one of this type. The most obvious thing is that insignia, dates, and places don't seem to match up. As I previously mentioned this is sometimes deliberate but more often than not, it is about (as described for the Vietnam era jackets) about people and jackets moving around over time.

This is an excellent example of the use of an artistic device, a 'fiction' if you like, to tell a story.

Imagine that the jacket is meant to represent one that belonged to someone who was stationed at Ft Shafter in Hawaii, in 1941, as part of the 7th USAAF, or the Pacific Air Force. All good so far. Perhaps he was an experienced pilot or support officer at HQ. A new Fighter Group is formed up on Wheeler Field in '44; our chap transfers in - you can't create a whole new group without bringing in experienced personnel from elsewhere. He adds the 21st FG tag to his jacket to record his new unit. Now we have two different time frames but both are accurate to the 7th in Hawaii, on Wheeler Field and Ft Shafter. It's not incompatible at all. And who said the jacket was supposed to be frozen in time in 1941? There is nothing inaccurate or inherently wrong in this jacket but it is probably a unique design.

The Seven Wishes artwork is clearly referencing the 7th USAAF. I don't know anything more about this girly - I haven't found the original. I don't know who it is by. If we knew that, there might be more clues as to why it was chosen. As we have seen previously, the choices are rarely random.

Now for the unit patch: it is I believe an accurate 21st FG patch. Later the latin was translated but the design was retained by the 21st Operations Group and later still the 21st Space Wing.

So like the Top Gun jacket, we have seemingly mismatched dates and places and names but they aren't really. The Top Gun jacket is more controversial and more complex - but why couldn't a pilot add a patch from his own state, a patch from his Dad or brother or buddy ... when I was a kid I used to sew patches on a rucksack of places I had been to, but I swapped some too with kids from other places; and some I just liked. It is an imagined story taking elements from different places to build a visual picture but just because it is a 'fiction' doesn't make it untruthful - Avirex/Cockpit never used to simply make up or invent units or places - they just put them together in combinations that weren't exact copies of originals to tell a story. Each jacket has its own story.

Well, I hope this has been of some help and interest ... and I hope it encourages others to post their pictures of their painted jacket and tell the stories of each jacket!

 

[captaincaveman1]

Your insight into the Clymans and the whole thought process behind designing these jackets is very intriguing. Keep it up.

 

[LeanLeather]

Very cool! I'd love to see more if you have them.

 

[Speedbird]

thanks

Your insight into the Clymans and the whole thought process behind designing these jackets is very intriguing. Keep it up.

I don't want to go on too much and over egg the pudding - but I hope I have given pause for thought to look at some of these jackets with a fresh eye. It would be good to see a few more posted here with their owners telling the story.

There were some really silly jackets but there were some really nice ones too.

I am looking forward to someone posting a 'Wild Child' 'Lucky Strike' or 'Going My Way' A-2.

 

[442RCT]

Last Christmas someone listed an Avirex "Ace of Aces" tribute to US highest scoring ace and MOH recipient Dick Bong jacket in NWOT condition. It started at $ 325 with no takers. The seller reduced the starting price two more times until it finally got down to $ 125. A couple of bidders finally bid and it sold for around $ 150.00. As I recall the jacket had an ace of spades patch with Ace of Aces lettering in the spade on one shoulder. The front of the jacket had a 9th Fighter Squadron knight's winged helm patch. I collect the Avirex/Cockpit pin-up girl jackets and wasn't interested in this particular jacket. With that being said, when the older Avirex pin-up jackets are offered on eBay, the bidding is usually pretty spirited as these seem to attract a group of niche collectors like myself. The John Wayne, Flying Tigers jacket, China Doll, any of the Vargas jackets you mentioned will sell well. [huh]

 

[Speedbird]

Collecting avirex nose art...

I think that is a really shrewd move .... these jackets are collectable in their own right...

... the main thing I would say is support Cockpit as it is now. It has ditched the hip-hop sportswear branch, including the Avirex name ....which couldn't have been easy BTW ... you don't spend years building something to just give it away .... and then start again..... but that is what Cockpit USA is doing. Cockpit is back to focusing on their roots, which is what we love. Let's forget the Avirex 'fashion' excursions .... and support Cockpit as it is now, back where it started! Not perfect, but at least they try. And our feedback can inform what they do.....

 

[Speedbird]

Go for broke!

I collect the Avirex/Cockpit pin-up girl jackets and wasn't interested in this particular jacket. With that being said, when the older Avirex pin-up jackets are offered on eBay, the bidding is usually pretty spirited as these seem to attract a group of niche collectors like myself. The John Wayne, Flying Tigers jacket, China Doll, any of the Vargas jackets you mentioned will sell well. [huh]

Hey RCT - when are you going to show some pics and tell about the jacket in your avatar?

Or is it already somehwere else on here?

 

[442RCT]

I was going to try to keep this a Cockpit-Avirex Retro thread, I'll post a new thread later for what I'll call, "Planes, Names and Dames" and show my avatar jacket. I'm also adding pics of some of my orphan jackets to the existing "Orphan A-2" thread. much like yourself, I fell in love with the 'art' of the flight jacket and what the art represents rather than trying to recreate a authentic WW2 jacket. If really like your poetic interpretation of the Avirex-Cockpit artwork on their jackets.:eusa_clap :cheers1:

 

[Speedbird]

poetic licence indeed....

well, maybe ... but don't you feel better now about them? .... rather than a constant nagging doubt that somehow they are 'wrong', full of 'errors' - like the pink cast you originally wrote off as dodgy production, it's nice to know the artists/designers use visual clues to tell stories. A picture as they say is worth a thousand words. Wear 'em with pride I say!

You are right - for me the story is the magic - I love noseart - I will enjoy your 'planes, names & dames' thread - we can bring in some biker jackets too into that one. I see visions of the Ace Cafe and the ton up boys in our future!

Edit: RCT have you been teasing me? I just found the Orphan A-2 thread (at last, thanks to your posting there!) and you know a lot more about the artwork and decorative process than you let on!

 

[442RCT]

Begal Officer's Club

Avirex made a series of lightweight cloth A-2 type jackets. For those of us who live in warmer climes, these were more 'wearable' than a leather jacket. (where I live, leather jacket weather lasts about 2 months)

This jacket is a tribute to the Hump pilots, I added the 14th AF patch to the chest, it wasn't original for this jacket. The tag indicates this jacket was made in Korea for Avirex.

 

[442RCT]

Going My Way - Cloth A-2

Here's my other Avirex cloth A-2 styled jacket with a pinup girl art. It's a very well known pin-up and I've seen it or similar artwork on other jackets and nose art of the time. This jacket was also made in Korea for Avirex. At the time I purchased these through the Cockpit catalog, I'm guessing they were in their "clearance" section. [huh] The lining is the same as the cloth 'Hump' jacket.