BARBISIO Brothers

[steur]

Thanks, Stefan, for your assessment. I also initially considered the possibility of this hat being pre-war, based on the lettering. But then I decided against it, as the lining shows remnants of an onion skin (?), which I always assumed must be post-war, since I only have/know well-dated examples from the 1950s. Therefore, I would have estimated this hat to be from the late 1940s/early 1950s. Can you tell me when this often yellowed protective lining layer made of plastic (what is it actually made of) began to be used on European hats? Is there any evidence at all to answer this question?

Thanks, Matt. These yellow liner covers come in several different materials it seems. Most of them made of cellophane, made out of cellulose fibers of cotton, hemp or wood. We usually assume this was used in hats mostly in the fifties, but the first factory to produce the stuff in the US was DuPont in 1924. The French already produced it from at least 1912 onward and exported it to foodproducers in the US. So it certainly was available in Europe well before WWII. I'd have to take a deeper dive to see if I can come up with a dated example of its use before the war in hats. Not definite proof (yet) but a fun subject to take a deeper look into.
I asked my hatter once to try to replicate the old liners with various cellophane materials. We came pretty close, but it's tough to find and in the end the question was why cover up nice liners anyway? It's not like I have any hair to use hairproducts on I need to protect my liners from

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Thanks, Matt. These yellow liner covers come in several different materials it seems. Most of them made of cellophane, made out of cellulose fibers of cotton, hemp or wood. We usually assume this was used in hats mostly in the fifties, but the first factory to produce the stuff in the US was DuPont in 1924. The French already produced it from at least 1912 onward and exported it to foodproducers in the US. So it certainly was available in Europe well before WWII. I'd have to take a deeper dive to see if I can come up with a dated example of its use before the war in hats. Not definite proof (yet) but a fun subject to take a deeper look into.
I asked my hatter once to try to replicate the old liners with various cellophane materials. We came pretty close, but it's tough to find and in the end the question was why cover up nice liners anyway? It's not like I have any hair to use hairproducts on I need to protect my liners from

Thanks, Stefan, for the insight – including into your hair care habits. Of course, thanks to you, I now remember: Cellophane (or rather, that's the brand name) is the name of that early plastic! I just had a quick look at Wikipedia and you are right: it was introduced in 1908 - so before World War I. It would be really interesting to take a closer look on this.

 

[steur]

This one is another refurb or better: a recovery. It was supposed to be a size 56, but it wasn't close. I sent it off to Fleur of Penumbra hats and she came up with this solution. Can't even feel the transition between the patch and the original. Stellar work.
Barbisio Lontra fedora. Size 56 (now it is!) in Misto Ferro. Brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent.

 

[Pellie]

Today this dark brown Barbisio came in.
Good condition.

 

[side]

I have seen this hat for sale. I'm tempted to buy it. Was this made in Italy?
It says Qualita extra.

 

[Pellie]

Barbisio Aristocrat in grey. Love the red lining and the bow treatment.

 

[steur]

Today this dark brown Barbisio came in.
Good condition.
View attachment 709934 View attachment 709935 View attachment 709936 View attachment 709937 View attachment 709938 View attachment 709939 View attachment 709940 View attachment 709941 View attachment 709942 View attachment 709943

Very nice, Marcel. Just a bit of steaming and it will be as new.

 

[steur]

I have seen this hat for sale. I'm tempted to buy it. Was this made in Italy?
It says Qualita extra.
View attachment 712460 View attachment 712461

Yes. Looks like a later production hat; the liner points in that direction. As far as I know Barbisio never had hat made other than in Italy. The brand was taken over by Cervo but they are located in the same region of Italy.

 

[steur]

Barbisio Aristocrat in grey. Love the red lining and the bow treatment.
View attachment 712492 View attachment 712493 View attachment 712494 View attachment 712495 View attachment 712496 View attachment 712497 View attachment 712498 View attachment 712499 View attachment 712500 View attachment 712501

Very cool!

 

[side]

Yes. Looks like a later production hat; the liner points in that direction. As far as I know Barbisio never had hat made other than in Italy. The brand was taken over by Cervo but they are located in the same region of Italy.

Is it true to size. I usually have 57 cm. Borsalino feels smaller in size.

 

[jeffgarf]

Yes. Looks like a later production hat; the liner points in that direction. As far as I know Barbisio never had hat made other than in Italy. The brand was taken over by Cervo but they are located in the same region of Italy.

Due to the reply to this earlier today, I just came across this thread. @steur, although this hat does seem to point to being made in Italy, the Barbisio brand, at least in the US market, has also been manufactured in Colombia by the owners of the Puerto Fino brand and by Bollman, here in the US. I own one of each. They are certainly not of the Italian quality that even the Cervo-made hats would be.

 

[steur]

Due to the reply to this earlier today, I just came across this thread. @steur, although this hat does seem to point to being made in Italy, the Barbisio brand, at least in the US market, has also been manufactured in Colombia by the owners of the Puerto Fino brand and by Bollman, here in the US. I own one of each. They are certainly not of the Italian quality that even the Cervo-made hats would be.

Was not aware of Bollman making Barbisio under license as well. The Borsalinos they did do not get good reviews here by those who've handled one. Can't judge myself since I never owned one.
Can't recall seeing examples of the Colombian made Barbisios, but I'll take your word for it about the quality. I think they weren't very prolific since I never see them pop up.

 

[jeffgarf]

Our old friend, @besdor, carried them both in his stores in Brooklyn at one time. He helped me identify my Bollman Borsalino (made for the religious market, I'm sure, and served its purpose, but not the "quality" most would want). I know he also carried the Barbisio from Colombia, as his store is stamped on the sweatband. These were also, I believe, licensed for the Jewish religious market. He also identified my Bollman-made one, and this one was not made specifically for the Jewish market, as it is gray, not black. He could tell anyway, like an expert jeweler eyeing a stone.

 

[jeffgarf]

This one was posted in a different thread back in 2021 by its previous owner, but never made it here. Now that I am the owner, I will post it with the new re-crease I did this evening. It was posted open crown, but sold to me with a teardrop bash. I re-creased it to a center dent and will have the opportunity to wear it later this week at my nephew's wedding. @steur estimated it was late made in the 50's early 60's back in 2021.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Another very interesting hat, unfortunately far from my size

A very high-quality Italian hat made in the golden age of Barbisio in Sagliano Micca (Biella)

The Barbisio "Verelyte" measures 56 cm or 7 in the US.

The hat is lined, and the felt is lightweight, indicating its use in spring and autumn.

What fascinates me is the shape, very similar to hats from the 1930s, the full and imposing crown, although I doubt this one is that old.

The felt color is "Muschio - Moss Green", and these are the measurements: the raw brim is 5 cm, the ribbon is 2 cm, slightly contrasting with the rich green of the felt, and the lowest point of the crown is 9 cm.

The felt is lightweight and very shapeable.
For any inquiries let me know.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

The brother of the Barbisio shown yesterday is here for you.

This hat is from the same period as the Barbisio "Verelyte" in moss.
It also features a wide, prominent crown and compact brim, as was often the case with pre-war European hats.

The Barbisio "Extra Quality" measures 56 centimeters, or 4 1/2 in France and 7 in the US.

Fully unlined, it has a lightweight felt suitable for changing seasons.

The felt is a deep blue, called "Radio" on the paper label, trimmed with a matching ribbon that creates a monochrome effect.

The hat's measurements are: the raw brim is 5.5 centimeters, the ribbon is 2.5 cm high, and the lowest part of the crown is 9.5 centimeters.

This hat, and the previous Barbisio in green, are among the most interesting hats I've found from this maker in terms of shape and color. They stand out from the standard Italian hats of the period, with a particular charm.
Ask for details, if you like

 

[steur]

The brother of the Barbisio shown yesterday is here for you.
View attachment 762578
This hat is from the same period as the Barbisio "Verelyte" in moss.
It also features a wide, prominent crown and compact brim, as was often the case with pre-war European hats.
View attachment 762579
The Barbisio "Extra Quality" measures 56 centimeters, or 4 1/2 in France and 7 in the US.
View attachment 762580
Fully unlined, it has a lightweight felt suitable for changing seasons.
View attachment 762581
The felt is a deep blue, called "Radio" on the paper label, trimmed with a matching ribbon that creates a monochrome effect.
View attachment 762582
The hat's measurements are: the raw brim is 5.5 centimeters, the ribbon is 2.5 cm high, and the lowest part of the crown is 9.5 centimeters.
View attachment 762583
This hat, and the previous Barbisio in green, are among the most interesting hats I've found from this maker in terms of shape and color. They stand out from the standard Italian hats of the period, with a particular charm.
Ask for details, if you like

That is a stellar hat, Daniele. And can you believe I don't have a Barbisio in blue yet?

 

[Daniele Tanto]

That is a stellar hat, Daniele. And can you believe I don't have a Barbisio in blue yet?

Thanks Stefan. Maybe that also green in Barbisio way become somenthing you need

 

[steur]

Barbisio Misto F a g g i o (beech). Ruvido (rough) finish. Size 56 with the overwelt brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Nobody and I do mean nobody does shark gills like Barbisio does. It's enough to make me buy a green hat; go figure!

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Barbisio Misto F a g g i o (beech). Ruvido (rough) finish. Size 56 with the overwelt brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Nobody and I do mean nobody does shark gills like Barbisio does. It's enough to make me buy a green hat; go figure!

A truly beautiful hat. The term "Ruvido" has been used by some other Italian hatters to describe mixed felts, finished with a "heather felt" with fairly firm naps. Needless to say, I wish it were my size.