Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Cherubim leathers

sweetfights

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,382
Location
Canada

sweetfights

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,382
Location
Canada
It’s difficult for me to use the site (for nearly a year now) but I’m hoping I can get a simple review of my experience with @AerGuitar and the process of reproducing (more reinterpreting) a favorite 70’s Lakeland jacket of mine.

The process began when I sent Mark the Lakeland jacket. Upon inspection he felt the only way to truly reproduce it, would be to take it apart. I really didn’t want to do that as I love the jacket and while it’s certainly not a valuable piece, it is rare. We decided to use his existing “ton up” pattern which is based on a jacket I sent Mark years ago and he subsequently restored and used as his flagship (and I believe) first fully constructed on his own jacket.

We used the ton up as a fit jacket and based off those measurements, Mark made a canvas mock up. I in turn altered that jacket and sent the photos and numbers back to Mark for the final build.

The Jackets:
Lakeland, glazed lamb skin:
View attachment 699872 View attachment 699873
View attachment 699874

The Cherubim, 2.5-3oz Olive Venetian cowhide:
View attachment 699875
View attachment 699881

View attachment 699877

I couldn’t be happier with the results! The jackets obviously share design elements but fit quite differently. This is good as it eliminates any competition between them and they really do feel like two entirely unique pieces. The craftsmanship, detail and quality of materials on Mark’s jacket are top tier. As good if not better than anything I have ever handled. There is not one single stitching error or wobble anywhere on the jacket. It is immaculate. The Venetian cowhide is absolutely gorgeous as is the avocado green cotton drill liner.

The process was fantastic on the whole. Mark asked questions, asked for confirmations and kept me informed throughout the entire process. He and I have been trading thrift store freebies back and forth for a number of years and it’s so cool to watch him master this craft! To say I am impressed by his work is an absolute understatement. I feel incredibly lucky to own this piece and have the opportunity to work with Mark in this way!
View attachment 699882 View attachment 699883 View attachment 699884
View attachment 699887
Do you have contact information to share?
 

Bfd70

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,400
Location
Traverse city
It's been a cold and quite dry winter in Iowa this year. Lots of wind and sub-zero (F) temps, so it has not been a good time to introduce a new jacket that is now part of my small collection. Today is up to 28F and sunny, so finally time to bring out the J24-type jacket that Marc made for me in the past few months.

As Tony has very well described, Marc (@AerGuitar ) is an exceptional craftsman. Every seam is well stitched and straight, neat and tight. Linings he offered (mostly cotton flannel with sateen in the sleeves) really surprised me and we sorted out some ways to make this jacket very unique. He is patient, very helpful and asked many good questions to ultimately come up with a complete "wish list" for this jacket.

As to the jacket itself, It is made of 4-oz struck through black steerhide that will be taking some serious break-in work over the next few months. The hem of this jacket inside has a canvas strip for durability. He even had a vintage Talon #10 "paperclip" brass zipper for the main zipper. We decided the mix the brass & nickel hardware to give a little more character. Some of my favorite details are the subtle studding on the epaulets and the top and bottom of the d-pocket zippers. Also the shape of size of the collar lapels fits in quite neatly with this style of jacket, in my opinion.

Here's some photos of the jacket, the sun was a little difficult to work with here so these are not the best for color representation overall:
View attachment 767151

View attachment 767145 View attachment 767146 View attachment 767148 View attachment 767149 View attachment 767150
Dang! How am i just now seeing this!
 

Bfd70

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,400
Location
Traverse city
To be honest every other brand is just a dirt road getting you to Cherubium.
IMG_0930.jpeg
IMG_0931.jpeg
IMG_0932.jpeg
 

sweetfights

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,382
Location
Canada

AerGuitar

Practically Family
Messages
768
Location
Missouri
Cherubium is a 1 man band and thl’s very own @AerGuitar. Honestly i’m not sure if he names his models. He can weigh in on that and about the leather.
Thanks Doug! That jacket is Version 2 of the Ton Up. Looks visually similar, but has higher armholes and a more squared off shoulder slope. Leather is from a tannery called Tasman out of New Zealand. This is the flesh side.
 

Unrefined Vision

One of the Regulars
Messages
102
Custom Maryam jacket #2 Aerguitar edition.

Going to start this review/testimonial describing the craftsmanship/quality and then move on to the jacket ordering process/experience with our TFL friend Aerguitar.

This was my first truly custom jacket. I specified all the materials, many of the design elements (the flap pocket design, shoulder gussets w/yoke), and even inquired about a modified fit to the pattern for a little more room. Mark listened to everything, provided his feedback and ultimately distilled it down to this final product which I think speaks for itself. He deserves all the credit, and I am beyond thrilled with the outcome.

IMG_6779.jpg


If you take a look at any of Aerguitar's personal jackets or those posted by other loungers I think the quality of his craftsmanship is evident, and I'm pleased to share that my experience only reinforced that to me. His well established pattern is top notch and the size 40 fit me very well in a proportionate and flattering way. Obviously Schott, Vanson and other makers all have different approaches to constructing leather jackets including the various patterns, but the point I am trying to convey is Mark's base pattern has really coherent and comfortable proportions to it. I'm a size 40 in both Schott and Vanson and was basically perfect fit in a size 40 of Mark's standard pattern. When it came to the custom modifications, such as the particular pocket flap shape and shoulder gussets, Mark nailed those, and even made samples out of scrap leather to show how they would turn out.

Moving to the customer experience side. Communication was 10/10. Aerguitar clearly informed me of the timeline, for example when he could start, and from that point on was easy to reach for questions etc. The process started with a fit jacket which inspired a ton of confidence with the end product. A highlight of the custom process was being able to source the exact hide I was interested in. Mark handled all the communication with the leather retailer so that he had everything he needed to build his specification. Attention to detail really shined here as the hide came in well over the approximate thickness listed of 3 oz and was actually closer to 4-5 oz thick. Mark was able to cut the panels for the jacket and then bring them to a local shop to have them split down free of charge. Awesome!

I could go on, but I feel like I've said enough to convey for anyone who is interested that not only is Aerguitar able to deliver a truly high quality jacket, but he's also a stand up guy.

10/10 would recommend!

These are all initial impressions, but the build quality is great. To my eye, high quality, precise, straight stitching.

IMG_6798.jpg

IMG_6800.jpg


The shoulder gusset functions well in providing mobility, and also it is quite aesthetic. It doesn't pop out noticeably when reaching, and sits nicely when relaxed.

IMG_6816.jpg

IMG_6815.jpg


And then in terms of the leather the Maryam washed horsehide Rocky Mountain Leather Supply offers is quickly becoming some of my favorite. Previously I sourced it for my Vanson Maverick. The color and grain are fantastic, but my favorite aspect is how it feels like it almost has a particular flexible quality to it. Hard to describe, but Mark noticed the same thing. Kind of crazy for a 3.5+ oz horsehide, but out of the box moving around is a breeze!

IMG_6826.jpg

IMG_6809.jpg

IMG_6811.jpg

IMG_6812.jpg
 

Prodigal_Jess

Familiar Face
Messages
66
Custom Maryam jacket #2 Aerguitar edition.

Going to start this review/testimonial describing the craftsmanship/quality and then move on to the jacket ordering process/experience with our TFL friend Aerguitar.

This was my first truly custom jacket. I specified all the materials, many of the design elements (the flap pocket design, shoulder gussets w/yoke), and even inquired about a modified fit to the pattern for a little more room. Mark listened to everything, provided his feedback and ultimately distilled it down to this final product which I think speaks for itself. He deserves all the credit, and I am beyond thrilled with the outcome.

View attachment 775387

If you take a look at any of Aerguitar's personal jackets or those posted by other loungers I think the quality of his craftsmanship is evident, and I'm pleased to share that my experience only reinforced that to me. His well established pattern is top notch and the size 40 fit me very well in a proportionate and flattering way. Obviously Schott, Vanson and other makers all have different approaches to constructing leather jackets including the various patterns, but the point I am trying to convey is Mark's base pattern has really coherent and comfortable proportions to it. I'm a size 40 in both Schott and Vanson and was basically perfect fit in a size 40 of Mark's standard pattern. When it came to the custom modifications, such as the particular pocket flap shape and shoulder gussets, Mark nailed those, and even made samples out of scrap leather to show how they would turn out.

Moving to the customer experience side. Communication was 10/10. Aerguitar clearly informed me of the timeline, for example when he could start, and from that point on was easy to reach for questions etc. The process started with a fit jacket which inspired a ton of confidence with the end product. A highlight of the custom process was being able to source the exact hide I was interested in. Mark handled all the communication with the leather retailer so that he had everything he needed to build his specification. Attention to detail really shined here as the hide came in well over the approximate thickness listed of 3 oz and was actually closer to 4-5 oz thick. Mark was able to cut the panels for the jacket and then bring them to a local shop to have them split down free of charge. Awesome!

I could go on, but I feel like I've said enough to convey for anyone who is interested that not only is Aerguitar able to deliver a truly high quality jacket, but he's also a stand up guy.

10/10 would recommend!

These are all initial impressions, but the build quality is great. To my eye, high quality, precise, straight stitching.

View attachment 775402
View attachment 775403

The shoulder gusset functions well in providing mobility, and also it is quite aesthetic. It doesn't pop out noticeably when reaching, and sits nicely when relaxed.

View attachment 775413
View attachment 775414

And then in terms of the leather the Maryam washed horsehide Rocky Mountain Leather Supply offers is quickly becoming some of my favorite. Previously I sourced it for my Vanson Maverick. The color and grain are fantastic, but my favorite aspect is how it feels like it almost has a particular flexible quality to it. Hard to describe, but Mark noticed the same thing. Kind of crazy for a 3.5+ oz horsehide, but out of the box moving around is a breeze!

View attachment 775415
View attachment 775416
View attachment 775417
View attachment 775418

Wow. I really like this style!
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,140
Location
Europe
Custom Maryam jacket #2 Aerguitar edition.

Going to start this review/testimonial describing the craftsmanship/quality and then move on to the jacket ordering process/experience with our TFL friend Aerguitar.

This was my first truly custom jacket. I specified all the materials, many of the design elements (the flap pocket design, shoulder gussets w/yoke), and even inquired about a modified fit to the pattern for a little more room. Mark listened to everything, provided his feedback and ultimately distilled it down to this final product which I think speaks for itself. He deserves all the credit, and I am beyond thrilled with the outcome.

View attachment 775387

If you take a look at any of Aerguitar's personal jackets or those posted by other loungers I think the quality of his craftsmanship is evident, and I'm pleased to share that my experience only reinforced that to me. His well established pattern is top notch and the size 40 fit me very well in a proportionate and flattering way. Obviously Schott, Vanson and other makers all have different approaches to constructing leather jackets including the various patterns, but the point I am trying to convey is Mark's base pattern has really coherent and comfortable proportions to it. I'm a size 40 in both Schott and Vanson and was basically perfect fit in a size 40 of Mark's standard pattern. When it came to the custom modifications, such as the particular pocket flap shape and shoulder gussets, Mark nailed those, and even made samples out of scrap leather to show how they would turn out.

Moving to the customer experience side. Communication was 10/10. Aerguitar clearly informed me of the timeline, for example when he could start, and from that point on was easy to reach for questions etc. The process started with a fit jacket which inspired a ton of confidence with the end product. A highlight of the custom process was being able to source the exact hide I was interested in. Mark handled all the communication with the leather retailer so that he had everything he needed to build his specification. Attention to detail really shined here as the hide came in well over the approximate thickness listed of 3 oz and was actually closer to 4-5 oz thick. Mark was able to cut the panels for the jacket and then bring them to a local shop to have them split down free of charge. Awesome!

I could go on, but I feel like I've said enough to convey for anyone who is interested that not only is Aerguitar able to deliver a truly high quality jacket, but he's also a stand up guy.

10/10 would recommend!

These are all initial impressions, but the build quality is great. To my eye, high quality, precise, straight stitching.

View attachment 775402
View attachment 775403

The shoulder gusset functions well in providing mobility, and also it is quite aesthetic. It doesn't pop out noticeably when reaching, and sits nicely when relaxed.

View attachment 775413
View attachment 775414

And then in terms of the leather the Maryam washed horsehide Rocky Mountain Leather Supply offers is quickly becoming some of my favorite. Previously I sourced it for my Vanson Maverick. The color and grain are fantastic, but my favorite aspect is how it feels like it almost has a particular flexible quality to it. Hard to describe, but Mark noticed the same thing. Kind of crazy for a 3.5+ oz horsehide, but out of the box moving around is a breeze!

View attachment 775415
View attachment 775416
View attachment 775417
View attachment 775418
I think @AerGuitar is definitely “the” insider tip and the gem that leather jacket freaks are looking for.

I'm afraid that, living in Europe, it will probably be too expensive for me, with customs duties, VAT, etc. Otherwise, I would definitely try to order another leather jacket here (even though I need it as much as a hole in my knee).
Just that ****** pocket alone... I like it.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
114,447
Messages
3,174,776
Members
58,286
Latest member
kaanchkaglass
Top