- London, UK
I'd happily give Tony Leather in Shanghai a go. Seems solid. The majority of tailors in Shanghai are relatively average; the best ones I've found (who are not HK-affiliated) make great shoes and very nice suits. There is not much of a vintage 'niche' in China, as people favour new items. I've been quizzed as to why I often wear an 'old' jacket (an Aero Cafe Racer) by staff in my local - they'd go for a lambskin jacket, AllSaints, etc., given the option. A big thing here is re-using, replicating or adapting for local use. I've bought crappy originals and great copies of various things here (and that's when it's possible to discern the difference). If you hand over an original item to a decent tailor here they can usually copy it extraordinarily well, in the material of your choosing and at a reasonable price. The issue of an ethical consideration (when we are discussing reproductions, anyway), is cloudy. My tailor, when given an originally expensive item from Europe, happily informed me of exactly where the design and assembly could be improved on and then did so. Her reaction to the price I'd paid was a mixture of amusement and concern, as if I may have taken leave of my senses. Where that falls on the originality/replication/ethical scale is anyone's guess.
Shanghai I'm aware of as a good source of tailoring. In Beijing, where I've spent most of my time in China (yet to make it down to Shanghai), most any tailor I've stumbled across has been a "we'll make you a suit in 24 hours" novelty option aimed at the tourists, really. If and when I get the chance, though, I have a very nice 50s British suit that is just past readily wearable that I eventually plan to take out and have used as a pattern. If I could find the right place, I'd have half a dozen of it run up in different colours. One of those suits that still looks vintage but if needsbe doesn't stick out too much in the context of people wearing "modern" stuff. In a perfect world I'd love to have two dozen suits - enough that I could wear a suit a couple of days a week without worrying about wearing my favourites out too quickly!