Concern about Buco J-24 Sizing

[Canuck Panda]

To answer OP's question, I believe the new fit 42 should work. I am about your weight and height and this is how the new fit 42 fits on me

New fit 42 measures small but fits big because the sleeves are wider angled. I think what Geekrobot said about the fit difference is spot on. I don't have the old fit but I do have an older TM jacket that may be very similar to some of the slimfit old J-24 models in size 44, even at one size larger, it does feel smaller than the new fit J-24 in size 42, because the sleeves:
new fit sleeve vs what I think the old fit sleeves are:

To make things even more confusing, I've been looking at this jacket all the way back to the New Zealand days, and it seems that the fit has been tweaked at least 3 to 4 times already, and there is no tag inside showing the model number so just by photo its hard to know which production year/fit they are.

The good news is that the most current fit (2021 onward) are popping up a lot on the used market because people are confused about the fit changes, so there is a good chance of getting one at a discount. I took a gamble on one just recently as posted.

Tape to jacket for the new fit size 42:
Shoulder can expand to about 19.5" but is about 18.5" with the action pleats pushed in

chest is 22" with the pleats pushed in and 23" expanded

sleeve length is longer than RMC's usual

there is a front drop so the back length isn't as short as it seems

Leather is the stiff kind, and needs break in.

It's a very good jacket. Not flawless construction, but really good overall package. The current pattern won't give you the super slim look but is much better for mobility imo.

 

[Aloysius]

The current pattern won't give you the super slim look but is much better for mobility imo.

Honestly, the previous fit looked like crap even on skinny guys, lol. It had no dimensionality to it, just looked like a flat design (made out of beautiful materials). Plenty of friends have it so I've tried it.

Where did you get that purple collar made? I'd love to get one for some of my jackets.

 

[Tom71]

To answer OP's question, I believe the new fit 42 should work. I am about your weight and height and this is how the new fit 42 fits on me
View attachment 585597 View attachment 585598 View attachment 585599
New fit 42 measures small but fits big because the sleeves are wider angled. I think what Geekrobot said about the fit difference is spot on. I don't have the old fit but I do have an older TM jacket that may be very similar to some of the slimfit old J-24 models in size 44, even at one size larger, it does feel smaller than the new fit J-24 in size 42, because the sleeves:
new fit sleeve vs what I think the old fit sleeves are:
View attachment 585609

To make things even more confusing, I've been looking at this jacket all the way back to the New Zealand days, and it seems that the fit has been tweaked at least 3 to 4 times already, and there is no tag inside showing the model number so just by photo its hard to know which production year/fit they are.

The good news is that the most current fit (2021 onward) are popping up a lot on the used market because people are confused about the fit changes, so there is a good chance of getting one at a discount. I took a gamble on one just recently as posted.

Tape to jacket for the new fit size 42:
Shoulder can expand to about 19.5" but is about 18.5" with the action pleats pushed in
View attachment 585611
chest is 22" with the pleats pushed in and 23" expanded
View attachment 585613
View attachment 585614
sleeve length is longer than RMC's usual
View attachment 585615
there is a front drop so the back length isn't as short as it seems
View attachment 585616
View attachment 585617

Leather is the stiff kind, and needs break in.

It's a very good jacket. Not flawless construction, but really good overall package. The current pattern won't give you the super slim look but is much better for mobility imo.

Puh, you did it again! Great jacket, but that collar elevates it into the insanity-sphere!

 

[Brandrea33]

@Canuck Panda what a fantastic post … jacket looks perfect on you!

 

[Canuck Panda]

Thanks guys, the collar and belt came with the jacket. Its previous owner had gotten the accessories for it but didn't work out for him and sold it to me.

There is a new fit size 44 now on Mercari if anyone is interested:
https://jp.mercari.com/item/m72323796922
I've seen these new fit go as low as ¥180,000 to full MSRP ¥275,000 on used market.

Here is what I got researching the RMC J-24 history, I think there were five different fits/model numbers all together, each with different fits and slightly different specs, I will try to fill in the holes when I can find more info. (not counting the J-24 variants like the L versions)
#RJW-60015 made in NZ, the very first one, this was back in 1995 when RMCNZ had Harley licensing. MSRP then was ¥125,000! Price has more than doubled...
#AWKHJ10414 - This one had the green quilt but I am not sure if this is made by The Few or the first jacket transferred back to Japan production. If this is made by the Few then there is one more that is made by the then new Kobe factory which also had the green quilting? This is the most grey area I can't find info of, from early 2000s to maybe 2012/2014 ish.
#BJ19003 combi tanned leather, not sure what the fit is, black quilt
#BJ9111 I think this is what people refer to as the old fit that is similar to the Lewis tight fit right? black quilt
#BJ21101 2021 new fit, black quilt

I am thinking the model numbers that starts with BJ (Buco Jackets) is when the current owner fully took over and no more ties with the defunct NZ RMC, but I cannot find good info on the transition period. I also think that the green quilt J-24 were also produced by the Kobe workshop but I cannot find anything to back this up just yet. Some of the green quilt jacket just looks too new to be made back in NZ years.

 

[jeo]

To answer OP's question, I believe the new fit 42 should work. I am about your weight and height and this is how the new fit 42 fits on me
View attachment 585597 View attachment 585598 View attachment 585599
New fit 42 measures small but fits big because the sleeves are wider angled. I think what Geekrobot said about the fit difference is spot on. I don't have the old fit but I do have an older TM jacket that may be very similar to some of the slimfit old J-24 models in size 44, even at one size larger, it does feel smaller than the new fit J-24 in size 42, because the sleeves:
new fit sleeve vs what I think the old fit sleeves are:
View attachment 585609

To make things even more confusing, I've been looking at this jacket all the way back to the New Zealand days, and it seems that the fit has been tweaked at least 3 to 4 times already, and there is no tag inside showing the model number so just by photo its hard to know which production year/fit they are.

The good news is that the most current fit (2021 onward) are popping up a lot on the used market because people are confused about the fit changes, so there is a good chance of getting one at a discount. I took a gamble on one just recently as posted.

Tape to jacket for the new fit size 42:
Shoulder can expand to about 19.5" but is about 18.5" with the action pleats pushed in
View attachment 585611
chest is 22" with the pleats pushed in and 23" expanded
View attachment 585613
View attachment 585614
sleeve length is longer than RMC's usual
View attachment 585615
there is a front drop so the back length isn't as short as it seems
View attachment 585616
View attachment 585617

Leather is the stiff kind, and needs break in.

It's a very good jacket. Not flawless construction, but really good overall package. The current pattern won't give you the super slim look but is much better for mobility imo.

Thanks guys, the collar and belt came with the jacket. Its previous owner had gotten the accessories for it but didn't work out for him and sold it to me.

There is a new fit size 44 now on Mercari if anyone is interested:
https://jp.mercari.com/item/m72323796922
I've seen these new fit go as low as ¥180,000 to full MSRP ¥275,000 on used market.

Here is what I got researching the RMC J-24 history, I think there were five different fits/model numbers all together, each with different fits and slightly different specs, I will try to fill in the holes when I can find more info. (not counting the J-24 variants like the L versions)
#RJW-60015 made in NZ, the very first one, this was back in 1995 when RMCNZ had Harley licensing. MSRP then was ¥125,000! Price has more than doubled...
#AWKHJ10414 - This one had the green quilt but I am not sure if this is made by The Few or the first jacket transferred back to Japan production. If this is made by the Few then there is one more that is made by the then new Kobe factory which also had the green quilting? This is the most grey area I can't find info of, from early 2000s to maybe 2012/2014 ish.
#BJ19003 combi tanned leather, not sure what the fit is, black quilt
#BJ9111 I think this is what people refer to as the old fit that is similar to the Lewis tight fit right? black quilt
#BJ21101 2021 new fit, black quilt

I am thinking the model numbers that starts with BJ (Buco Jackets) is when the current owner fully took over and no more ties with the defunct NZ RMC, but I cannot find good info on the transition period. I also think that the green quilt J-24 were also produced by the Kobe workshop but I cannot find anything to back this up just yet. Some of the green quilt jacket just looks too new to be made back in NZ years.

Good stuff here man, thank you.

I don’t think the new fit is inherently better for everyone, so hopefully all the different variations will be sorted out as this is a true service for people looking to buy one of these and can’t try in person before buying.

 

[Chris_K]

To answer OP's question, I believe the new fit 42 should work. I am about your weight and height and this is how the new fit 42 fits on me
View attachment 585597 View attachment 585598 View attachment 585599
New fit 42 measures small but fits big because the sleeves are wider angled. I think what Geekrobot said about the fit difference is spot on. I don't have the old fit but I do have an older TM jacket that may be very similar to some of the slimfit old J-24 models in size 44, even at one size larger, it does feel smaller than the new fit J-24 in size 42, because the sleeves:
new fit sleeve vs what I think the old fit sleeves are:
View attachment 585609

To make things even more confusing, I've been looking at this jacket all the way back to the New Zealand days, and it seems that the fit has been tweaked at least 3 to 4 times already, and there is no tag inside showing the model number so just by photo its hard to know which production year/fit they are.

The good news is that the most current fit (2021 onward) are popping up a lot on the used market because people are confused about the fit changes, so there is a good chance of getting one at a discount. I took a gamble on one just recently as posted.

Tape to jacket for the new fit size 42:
Shoulder can expand to about 19.5" but is about 18.5" with the action pleats pushed in
View attachment 585611
chest is 22" with the pleats pushed in and 23" expanded
View attachment 585613
View attachment 585614
sleeve length is longer than RMC's usual
View attachment 585615
there is a front drop so the back length isn't as short as it seems
View attachment 585616
View attachment 585617

Leather is the stiff kind, and needs break in.

It's a very good jacket. Not flawless construction, but really good overall package. The current pattern won't give you the super slim look but is much better for mobility imo.

That is one perfect fit Canuck, well done. Looks epic with the collar added. I'll echo Alloysius's comments and add, this new version has an array of dimensions to it the old versions can't touch, it's literally a reproduction of the original Buco, dare I say it, nearly even a slight, very slight improvement... there's just something about these new dimensions, might be those sleeves but also something I like about that chest cut. Also that tapered rugged back with 1 piece of Shinki.

I'm a 41 chest, 178cm and I'm starting to think a size 40 should be perfect in this new fit.

 

[thatdrewman]

After almost 3 years, I got my J24 at 44.

I gained some pounds (Fat and muscle). I can only wear a T-Shirt max inside. Imma lose some fat soon so it can fit better!

 

[BloodEagle]

Ive got an 'old fit' J24 which fits (and zips up) very nicely. I do reject the idea that the new fit is superior - different, yes, but not necessarily superior. Fit is pretty subjective and I personally much prefer the old version - i tried on a new version in my size and there was so much excess material everywhere it just was not for me. For those saying that the new fit is 'vintage accurate' and an actualy a 1:1 repro of the old 50s Bucos - its not, or at least not any more accurate in terms of pattern than any other modern day versions of it. Theyre both awesome jackets, lets be happy to own either of them.

 

[thatdrewman]

Ive got an 'old fit' J24 which fits (and zips up) very nicely. I do reject the idea that the new fit is superior, I much prefer the old version - i tried on a new version in my size and there was so much excess material everywhere it just was not for me. For those saying that the new fit is 'vintage accurate' and an actualy a 1:1 repro of the old 50s Bucos - its not, or at least not any more accurate in terms of pattern than any other modern day versions of it. Theyre both awesome jackets, lets be happy to own either of them.

Same, I can’t agree the newer cut is better than the previous one. The previous cutie why I decided to get RMC J-24

 

[gily]

Thanks guys, the collar and belt came with the jacket. Its previous owner had gotten the accessories for it but didn't work out for him and sold it to me.

There is a new fit size 44 now on Mercari if anyone is interested:
https://jp.mercari.com/item/m72323796922
I've seen these new fit go as low as ¥180,000 to full MSRP ¥275,000 on used market.

Here is what I got researching the RMC J-24 history, I think there were five different fits/model numbers all together, each with different fits and slightly different specs, I will try to fill in the holes when I can find more info. (not counting the J-24 variants like the L versions)
#RJW-60015 made in NZ, the very first one, this was back in 1995 when RMCNZ had Harley licensing. MSRP then was ¥125,000! Price has more than doubled...
#AWKHJ10414 - This one had the green quilt but I am not sure if this is made by The Few or the first jacket transferred back to Japan production. If this is made by the Few then there is one more that is made by the then new Kobe factory which also had the green quilting? This is the most grey area I can't find info of, from early 2000s to maybe 2012/2014 ish.
#BJ19003 combi tanned leather, not sure what the fit is, black quilt
#BJ9111 I think this is what people refer to as the old fit that is similar to the Lewis tight fit right? black quilt
#BJ21101 2021 new fit, black quilt

I am thinking the model numbers that starts with BJ (Buco Jackets) is when the current owner fully took over and no more ties with the defunct NZ RMC, but I cannot find good info on the transition period. I also think that the green quilt J-24 were also produced by the Kobe workshop but I cannot find anything to back this up just yet. Some of the green quilt jacket just looks too new to be made back in NZ years.

I was able to get a 2010 green quilting j24 in new condition, IMO leather is just insane good, I have owned the old fit J24 black quilt and leather was different more stiffer than this one and it did not looked liked similar, I preffer this one better, its softer shinier, just look at the pictures, the new version does not shi e like okd ones specially like this in particular and leather seemed to be different. I do preffer this cut than the new one and this jacket in particular seems to age faster than the old fit black quilt I had. I also had a J24L

 

[gily]

I was able to get a 2010 green quilting j24 in new condition, IMO leather is just insane good, I have owned the old fit J24 black quilt and leather was different more stiffer than this one and it did not looked liked similar, I preffer this one better, its softer shinier, just look at the pictures, the new version does not shi e like okd ones specially like this in particular and leather seemed to be different. I do preffer this cut than the new one and this jacket in particular seems to age faster than the old fit black quilt I had. I also had a J24L

View attachment 597747 View attachment 597748 View attachment 597749 View attachment 597750 View attachment 597751 View attachment 597752 View attachment 597753 View attachment 597754 View attachment 597755

I think my jacket will age similar to old Flat Head double riders because new ones seem to use different leather as well

 

[Brandrea33]

For what it’s worth … I went to a retailer here in Toronto and tried on the j24.

It took everything within me not to leave the store with it. The clerk pretty much had to kick me out for loitering whist wearing the jacket around the store lol.

Also, here in Canada it retails for $3100 plus tax. The sales associate told me that in the fall, the price is going to $4000. I have no idea if that‘s true, but he seemed quite convincing.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Yea

I was able to get a 2010 green quilting j24 in new condition, IMO leather is just insane good, I have owned the old fit J24 black quilt and leather was different more stiffer than this one and it did not looked liked similar, I preffer this one better, its softer shinier, just look at the pictures, the new version does not shi e like okd ones specially like this in particular and leather seemed to be different. I do preffer this cut than the new one and this jacket in particular seems to age faster than the old fit black quilt I had. I also had a J24L

View attachment 597747 View attachment 597748 View attachment 597749 View attachment 597750 View attachment 597751 View attachment 597752 View attachment 597753 View attachment 597754 View attachment 597755

h I am looking for a green quilt on as well. They're rare now and good condition ones in bigger sizes are harder to come by. You got a really nice one there. Congrats.