Custom Highwayman

[ins0ma]

For the past few years I've been quietly stalking the Perfect Leather Jacket, and at this point, after reading the forums here and elsewhere, I've narrowed it down to a custom piece from the Aero leather company in Scotland. I've been communicating with Mark from Aero USA and am moments (OK, maybe days) away from pulling the trigger and making the purchase. All my life I've been attracted to quality things; Swiss watches, German cars, hand-knotted Silk carpets, nice fountain pens, and lately, Scottish leather jackets, but its only in the past few years (I'm 34 now) that I've been able to afford any of that. So, now that the time has come to buy The Jacket, I thought I'd seek out any advice, suggestions, or even just encouragement about my planned purchase. It will be far and away the most expensive jacket I've ever owned, as well as the first bespoke item in my wardrobe.

I'm a little nervous about the sizing, since I'm 6'4, slim build and 220 pounds. Jackets hardly ever fit me correctly. I usually end up getting an XXL so that the sleeves will be long enough for me, and then end up swimming in the rest of the jacket. So far in my attempts at measuring myself (these measurements are with the tape fairly tight around my body) I've come up with 43 inches around the chest, 40 inches around the navel area, and a size 36 pant waist size. Mark suggests that I measure my arm length from the "collar bone" area to the wrist, and I will the next time I get my hands on a measuring tape. . .

The plan for the jacket so far is:

1. "Vintage" black horsehide Highwayman (according to Aero, "the look of a 20 year-old jacket)
2. "Black Stewart" tartan lining (My father is Scottish and as it happens the family name is Stewart, so this option seemed a no-brainer)
3. Inside pocket
4. Bi-swing back
5. Brass hardware

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

 

[ethanedwards]

Highwayman

Mine came in the vintage leather, but claiming that it looks '20 years old' might be a little optimistic. A great hard-wearing jacket nevertheless, if the
fit works out you shouldn't be disappointed! Good luck.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Here is my "Vintage" Black HH Aero as new....

...and my FQHH Highwayman several years old...

If you send in measurements it should fit you perfectly. You won't be putting up with swimming in the jacket to get the right sleeve length. I'm a slim 6' 2"..with 34-35 shirtsleeve length. They sent me a 25 1/2 sleeve length... perfect fit!
HD

 

[ins0ma]

Great pictures HD, and the first 2 really confirm my hopes about what the vintage horsehide will be like. Thanks for the reply -- it probably seems like no big deal to a guy who owns multiple custom jackets but I'm pretty excited about this. The brown leather is gorgeous, and I especially love the way its broken in. Hopefully my black one will look as good in a few years. Of course I have to order it first . . .

 

[HoosierDaddy]

InsOma
I was greatly excited with the first(the Highwayman)..since I didn't quite know what to expect. Taking it out of the box....I was blown away! I had never seen quality leather like that. After the fit was perfect....I was thrilled...and still am. The next eleven were also exciting..cause I "did" know what to expect...sorta. Some were of different hide and cut...so it was always intriguing.
Here's a '30s HalfBelt with the "vintage" brown HH that Aero once offered. Soft and grainy. Another great HH.

HD

 

[HoosierDaddy]

You've probably seen this Aero USA picture trail...but if not..it will give you a taste of the different styles and leathers. However..it sounds like you have already put together some nice features for the new Highwayman.
BTW...tell my ole buddy Mark Moye that his Hoosier buddy said "Hi"!

http://www.picturetrail.com/aeroleatherusa

 

[Graemsay]

I'm a similar height to you ins0ma, and have owned a couple of Aero jackets. I've asked for 2" to be added to the body and sleeves, and it's worked out pretty well in the past.

I believe that the vintage horsehides are slightly thinner and softer than the front quarter horsehide. So if you want the toughest possible jacket, you'll need to go up a weight.

I don't think that the black ages in a particularly interesting manner. (I'll post some pictures of my old Hercules later.) The browns, cherry and cordovan darken and lighten in patches and along creases with wear, whilst the black will just fade slightly.

I'm not a fan of brown jackets, so I'm going with cordovan for my new one. Alternative colours to consider are seal brown (particularly if it's done as a spray finish, so it rubs off with wear) or oil pulled horsehide, which is lovely.

 

[Mark P]

I had an Aero Cossack in vintage black horse for a while. The leather was quite thick and surprisingly flexible for horsehide. However I did find that black dye would come out of the leather and transfer itself to the cream leather seats of my car.

If you are concerned about fit, the best thing in my view is to measure a jacket you already have that you know fits, then ask Aero to send you the actual measurements of the jacket you are after. I've just ordered a Route 66 from them and they were very helpful with this. Contact Amanda at their Scottish base.

 

[ins0ma]

I do agree that the brown and cordovan finishes age "more interestingly," and in fact I'd like to own a brown leather someday, but not for my first "nice" leather jacket. Black goes with everything and is classic. The brown is definitely prettier.

 

[ins0ma]

Pulled the trigger!

I did it, I just finished paying for the custom Highwayman. Now I only have to wait until late June to get it -- I'll be traveling until then so I can't take delivery on it any sooner, even if they could get it done faster. Mark Moye at Aero USA was very helpful and accommodating, and I can't wait until I get my hands on this thing! It would be really cool if they could send me a few photos of the jacket as its being constructed . . . has anyone heard of them doing this or is it an insane request?

 

[ins0ma]

It arrived!

The Highwayman I discussed above has arrived and its awesome. It showed up yesterday, right on time as Mark had promised, and if anything its better than I'd hoped. It fits like a glove, and feels good on, comfortable and almost form-fitting already, even out of the box. I keep not wanting to take it off but its been near 90-degree weather here so I'll have to wait. The leather is very thick and heavy, and moves almost elastically, like some kind of rubber-leather, and I can tell that its going to develop a lot of character over time.

Different from other Highwayman jackets I've seen pictures of, the back is one solid piece, no diagonal detail across the shoulders. I didn't ask for it to be that way, but I actually like it better, since the back on mine is one huge piece of hide. This has definitely been worth waiting for and now all I need is cold weather so I can start wearing it.

I have some photos of the jacket but I'm not sure how to go about posting them, since they're on my hard drive, not online, and the "insert image" button asks for a URL. . .

 

[ins0ma]

http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k375/ins0ma/Jacket-9-copy.jpg

 

[ins0ma]

 

[ins0ma]

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[Mr_Misanthropy]

Nice!

Wow, that's a SHARP jacket! Great choices on the features. That lining looks really good with the black.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Looks great!!!
No seam across the back because you got a bi-swing back.
HD

 

[Edward]

Sharp looking jacket. Any photos of it being worn yet? I've not seen many of these in black - definitely looks great.

 

[AlanC]

Great looking jacket. Congratulations on setting the goal and getting it.

 

[Rufus]

Superb jacket, I'm just designing up my 'dream jacket' from aero as well.

I've had a few stock and one custom, and I've been drawing up a plan of what I want. (A 1930's trim MC Jacket.. with a B2 style front pocket)

I'm very inspired by your choices, I love the Bi Swing back! My previous jackets don't have this, and it's a feature I may look to incorporate!

Thanks for sharing, it's a beauty...

Now, break that jacket in!

Ruf

 

[johnnyjohnny]

DeR AeRO

well, loox like you have mY jacket!

i ordered the highwayman geared to have all the features that a german ww2 hartmann-style luftwaffe jacket would have (except the neck and waist buckle on the front) and your jacket is what i came up with...

mine's in dark brown horsehide, but everything else is the same (1 piece back, etc) except i got the zipper cuffs, and had them keep the collar to 2 3/4" in length, plus add a second top zipper pocket on the other side...

thanks for posting the pix, now i know what to expect aug 4 when mine comes...and love the quality as you've described it