Derby repair suggestion

[DoubleD]

Hi gents,

I have an old derby sold by Strawbridge and Clothier in Philly. The hat has a beautiful leather sweatband, no lining, ribbon band and brim edge (excuse me for my ignorance on the correct term).

I’ve had the hat for nearly twenty years, found it in a used clothes shop in Montana, it fits like it was made using my noggin as a pattern.

Anyhow, I’m needing some repair. The ribbon is all either gone, or nearly so. The stitching in the band is also mostly gone. The hat is beautiful, otherwise.

Any suggestions on a good repair person are appreciated.

Have fun!

dld

 

[Rmccamey]

Your thread may get moved to the Ask a Question thread, but that is OK.

Most of the hatters discussed here on the Lounge can help you out with repairs. I hate to offer any suggestions here as so many are expert at what they do. Send me a private message and we can discuss further.

Replacing the sweatband and reattaching or replacing a ribbon is usually not a major problem for most hatters. A key element on a bowler is the brim binding. If yours is an old hat (generally speaking, pre-1950) with a very heavily creased curl to the brim that almost folds back on itself (called a D'Orsay curl), repairing or replacing the binding is difficult and time consuming because it has to be hand stitched. That is about the extent of my knowledge. Hopefully others will weigh in. The best course of action will be to send some closeup pictures of the hat, sweatband, ribbon, and brim curl to a hatter (or post them here) so they can give you a better assessment of your hat.

 

[belfastboy]

Your thread may get moved to the Ask a Question thread, but that is OK.

Most of the hatters discussed here on the Lounge can help you out with repairs. I hate to offer any suggestions here as so many are expert at what they do. Send me a private message and we can discuss further.

Replacing the sweatband and reattaching or replacing a ribbon is usually not a major problem for most hatters. A key element on a bowler is the brim binding. If yours is an old hat (generally speaking, pre-1950) with a very heavily creased curl to the brim that almost folds back on itself (called a D'Orsay curl), repairing or replacing the binding is difficult and time consuming because it has to be hand stitched. That is about the extent of my knowledge. Hopefully others will weigh in. The best course of action will be to send some closeup pictures of the hat, sweatband, ribbon, and brim curl to a hatter (or post them here) so they can give you a better assessment of your hat.

View attachment 379107

Yes, I concur. Limited experience here but I gave up on my two attempts to put on new binding. I could not machine stitch it on with the curl and the felt so stiff it was next to impossible to hand sew the new ribbon on. Perhaps the curl needs to be ironed back to flat, new binding attached and then the brim re curled.

 

[DoubleD]

View attachment 379108

Your thread may get moved to the Ask a Question thread, but that is OK.

Most of the hatters discussed here on the Lounge can help you out with repairs. I hate to offer any suggestions here as so many are expert at what they do. Send me a private message and we can discuss further.

Replacing the sweatband and reattaching or replacing a ribbon is usually not a major problem for most hatters. A key element on a bowler is the brim binding. If yours is an old hat (generally speaking, pre-1950) with a very heavily creased curl to the brim that almost folds back on itself (called a D'Orsay curl), repairing or replacing the binding is difficult and time consuming because it has to be hand stitched. That is about the extent of my knowledge. Hopefully others will weigh in. The best course of action will be to send some closeup pictures of the hat, sweatband, ribbon, and brim curl to a hatter (or post them here) so they can give you a better assessment of your hat.

View attachment 379107

Yes, I concur. Limited experience here but I gave up on my two attempts to put on new binding. I could not machine stitch it on with the curl and the felt so stiff it was next to impossible to hand sew the new ribbon on. Perhaps the curl needs to be ironed back to flat, new binding attached and then the brim re curled.

Thanks! You are both describing what I am afraid of. The brim curl is *very* severe, but goes from no curl in front and back to a flat on the sides. I’ll post photos when I’m at home.

The material is very stiff. At one time I had some input that suggested the hat was perhaps pre-depression.

I appreciate any concerns about making public recommendations. If this thread turns into a concerns thread, it will be invaluable to me for questions I can ask of any potential repair person.

One old photo of me in the hat, circa 2007-ish. Poor photo of the hat, but all I have with me.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

View attachment 379108



Thanks! You are both describing what I am afraid of. The brim curl is *very* severe, but goes from no curl in front and back to a flat on the sides. I’ll post photos when I’m at home.

The material is very stiff. At one time I had some input that suggested the hat was perhaps pre-depression.

I appreciate any concerns about making public recommendations. If this thread turns into a concerns thread, it will be invaluable to me for questions I can ask of any potential repair person.

One old photo of me in the hat, circa 2007-ish. Poor photo of the hat, but all I have with me. View attachment 379116

It won’t preserve your old hat, but if you are blessed with a smaller hat size you can usually find vintage derbies/bowlers in great condition for very reasonable prices. I suspect it would be cheaper to replace the hat than it would be to repair it.

Some of the skilled hatters I know don’t do repairs and others only offer them to regular clients who have commissioned custom hats from them in the past. Making a true D’Orsay curled brim requires special tools and special knowledge. It’s a skill that has mostly died out and not it every hatter can do it right and it’s very obvious when it hasn’t been done right.

 

[DoubleD]

It won’t preserve your old hat, but if you are blessed with a smaller hat size you can usually find vintage derbies/bowlers in great condition for very reasonable prices. I suspect it would be cheaper to replace the hat than it would be to repair it.

Some of the skilled hatters I know don’t do repairs and others only offer them to regular clients who have commissioned custom hats from them in the past. Making a true D’Orsay curled brim requires special tools and special knowledge. It’s a skill that has mostly died out and not it every hatter can do it right and it’s very obvious when it hasn’t been done right.

Good points. I paid about fifteen bucks for the hat, I have no clue as to the inherent quality, or lack thereof.

I do know that I’ve never seen one quite like it, and it is absolutely the best fitting hat I’ve ever owned.

I appreciate the logical opinion, I am rarely sentimental, but in this case matters of the heart seem to be strong.

I’d probably be okay with a new band and repaired sweatband while leaving the brim raw.