Double Helix Works?

[sshack]

Hugging the Curve, stock size 44, black semi aniline horsehide

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The measurements on the websit is based on the pulled measuring method.
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What I think about this jacket:

1) Leather - is very thick, as thick as my heavyweight CXL FQHH, so at least 3.5oz or 1.5mm. But is as soft as the 3oz 1.2mm RMC Shinki. Feels waxy to the hand. I've never had a horsehide like this. I was expecting same as the other Tokyo brands but this stands out on its own. The hide is really nice.

Compared to the RMC Steinbeck half belt, steinbeck on top, hugging on bottom
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2) Construction - can't complain, typical Japanese high end finishing. Same type of lining construction as RMC. The Hugging has an inside pocket, the RMC don't.

3) Fit - very, very similar to the RMC again. A bit longer in the front, made for untucked shirts. The forearm has a taper and can feel tight. The RMC fit pics here:

All the McCoys

I haven't really paid that much attention to RMC as a jacket maker, as I thought they mostly did military aviator reproductions, and I'm more of a motorcycle and car coat kind of guy, and they're very expensive, even used. I recently noticed a gorgeous two-tone MC jacket on yahoo japan, but too...

www.thefedoralounge.com

4) Price - the best part of this jacket. MSRP ¥173,800. With the two discounts code running everyweek on Rakuten, this jacket came in at ¥160,110, that's about £900, or $1,200. And as far as I can see, all the bigger sizes are the same prices, and they go up to 48, fits aquaman. The only other brand that consistently have bigger sizes is Y'2, all the rest of the Japanese brands don't usually stock anything over 42 in Japan.

One major negative, is the zipper. I almost broke the Hookless just by trying on. Some of them can be very finicky. I would say it's time for all repros to switch to ykk. It's fun to have a different zip, until it breaks, and replacement cost 150+, on top of an already expensive jacket.

That's all I've got. If you are shopping in this budget range or come across this jacket on the used market, it's worth to take a look.

Wow, this is the review I've been waiting for. I can't believe I just found this now-- this is what happens when I get too busy for FL. Thanks for posting.

Oh yeah-- How functional are the hand warmer pockets? Are they placed on the jacket where you can easily slip your hands in without having to reach super up/high on the torso? Does the zippered pocket opening scratch your hand (or expensive watch!) when you use it? I know... dainty ain't I? But had to ask.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Wow, this is the review I've been waiting for. I can't believe I just found this now-- this is what happens when I get too busy for FL. Thanks for posting.

Oh yeah-- How functional are the hand warmer pockets? Are they placed on the jacket where you can easily slip your hands in without having to reach super up/high on the torso? Does the zippered pocket opening scratch your hand (or expensive watch!) when you use it? I know... dainty ain't I? But had to ask.

The zipper hand warmer pockets are not hand or watch friendly. They're mainly for storage. The zipper teeth will scratch the back of the hand and then bumps the side of the watch and if not careful the face...
The Hugging Curve isn't so much a riding jacket due to its length, so I figure they could do without the zippers on the hand warmers, like on their half belts.

 

[sshack]

For a reason I can't really explain, I love jackets with a slight A-shape like this DH or my FW Brakeman. Maybe it has something to do with the fact this cut stands out from the crowd and otherwise I have a V-body shape...

Edit: Of course there is some accentuations on lower section by wearing a full cut jean with quite some hip-flare a Fullcount 0105.

View attachment 595202

I've been so close to buying the jacket over the past year or two. It's interesting that the "A" cut/silhouette of your black jacket is more noticeable than on the indigo version.

Wanted an AERO, got a DOUBLE HELIX 1930 style

Ladies and Gentlemen, I'm not a native speaker, so please excuse my English - I'll try my best. Thanks! [ INTRO ] Yesterday afternoon I made a quick stop in town. It was unusually warm for the winter and I took advantage of the dry evening to walk through the shopping mile. I stopped in front...

www.thefedoralounge.com

It must be the same pattern. Do you think it's due to the way the different leather drapes?

 

[sshack]

Double Helix Type N-1 Deck jacket in horsehide review,

The short version,
The good, One of the best horsehides in the business imo, thick, grainy, oily, waxy, and PLIABLE out of the box
The bad, Tricky pattern, wide torso paired with same high armholes as patterns with one size slimmer torso...

The Long version,
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So the long version will basically be my personal opinion about the fit of the pattern because the leather is awesome and nothing more or less to say about it.

The N-1 jacket doesn't have any contouring in the front panels. The Hugging Curve does, so the side panels wraps around to the front, where as the N-1 deck jacket front panels bleeds all the way to the edge. This would be fine if the torso is the same size as the Hugging curve, but it is not, making the already wide N-1 jacket looks even more boxy. I do suspect the N-1 torso was cut with alpaca liner in mind so the 24" width vs the 23", but the jacket only came with the same wool liner as the Hugging Curve, not alpaca pill liner, so there is more boxy fit shape. If this is just a military jacket I would be less critical, but for a "civilian" leather version, I would want more civilian stylish fits.

Downsizing to get the smaller P2P may or may not work, because the arm hole is already very high (not big) for the tag size. Unless the smaller size has the same arm hole height it may work, if it has smaller arm hole height then no. BTW, both the Hugging Curve and the Deck jacket are size 44, but Deck jacket is 24" P2P vs 23" for Hugging curve, and wider sleeves on the N-1 deck jacket with less forward rotation.

My 2 cents on the deck jacket fit is that, I would have hoped for more front contouring for it to look more fitted. I don't mind the wider torso, but it doesn't have to look boxy. My Aero Highwayman is same 24" width but it has contouring (similar to the Hugging Curve), so it looks more fitted but still good room to live through the winter. I feel that when leather version of a cloth military jacket is made, civilian fit looks could be taken into account.

Another small but can be big issue is the zipper. DH seems to stick with the small Hookless pull, they actually put it on the repro Talon (Waldes) track... For the weight of their jacket, over 8 lbs, I would think Universal(YKK) size 8 is probably the best long term option...
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Circling back to the leather, it's great. Making this a mixed experience.

I ordered this jacket through FromJapan Proxy because I had a coupon. And my proxy then ordered it from DH's website. The lead time was about 2.5 months give or take, surprisingly shorter when compared to other Japanese brands pre-orders.

Maybe the best compromise would be to custom order the N-1 deck jacket with a custom taper. Size 44 goes from 24" at the pits down to 23" at the hem. It could get a Rainbow Country fit treatment where it tapers down to 21.5" at the waist and then flares out to 22" at the hem for a more flattering fit yet still functional.

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Really great horsehide but boxy fits,

Mixed feelings...

To me, the fit looks really good on you. Better than your Hugging Curve. How do the armholes feel though. Tight? I've been eyeing this jacket as well.

How's the quality of the collar?

 

[dovahkiiin93]

Hugging the Curve, stock size 44, black semi aniline horsehide

View attachment 570189 View attachment 570190 View attachment 570191 View attachment 570192 View attachment 570193 View attachment 570194

The measurements on the websit is based on the pulled measuring method.
View attachment 570195 View attachment 570196

What I think about this jacket:

1) Leather - is very thick, as thick as my heavyweight CXL FQHH, so at least 3.5oz or 1.5mm. But is as soft as the 3oz 1.2mm RMC Shinki. Feels waxy to the hand. I've never had a horsehide like this. I was expecting same as the other Tokyo brands but this stands out on its own. The hide is really nice.

Compared to the RMC Steinbeck half belt, steinbeck on top, hugging on bottom
View attachment 570197

2) Construction - can't complain, typical Japanese high end finishing. Same type of lining construction as RMC. The Hugging has an inside pocket, the RMC don't.

3) Fit - very, very similar to the RMC again. A bit longer in the front, made for untucked shirts. The forearm has a taper and can feel tight. The RMC fit pics here:

http://[URL]https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/all-the-mccoys.97816/post-3051173

[/URL]

4) Price - the best part of this jacket. MSRP ¥173,800. With the two discounts code running everyweek on Rakuten, this jacket came in at ¥160,110, that's about £900, or $1,200. And as far as I can see, all the bigger sizes are the same prices, and they go up to 48, fits aquaman. The only other brand that consistently have bigger sizes is Y'2, all the rest of the Japanese brands don't usually stock anything over 42 in Japan.

One major negative, is the zipper. I almost broke the Hookless just by trying on. Some of them can be very finicky. I would say it's time for all repros to switch to ykk. It's fun to have a different zip, until it breaks, and replacement cost 150+, on top of an already expensive jacket.

That's all I've got. If you are shopping in this budget range or come across this jacket on the used market, it's worth to take a look.

Im confused, they measure the shoulder going from the side up diagonal to the base of the collar and going down diogonaly again to the other side?

it looks different than the straight measurement you provided

 

[Canuck Panda]

To me, the fit looks really good on you. Better than your Hugging Curve. How do the armholes feel though. Tight? I've been eyeing this jacket as well.

How's the quality of the collar?

Arm hole is high on this one. You know there are the two kinds of deck jacket one has higher and one has the lower arm hole this one has the higher one. I see some here prefer one over the other so keep that in mind. Collar is great, they use Colomer mouton, just like the other top brands, veg tan from southern Europe.
Another thing is their deck jacket only comes with a wool liner, whereas the Y2 comes with the pill liner. It’ll depend on how warm you need it to be, it’s a deck jacket after all.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Im confused, they measure the shoulder going from the side up diagonal to the base of the collar and going down diogonaly again to the other side?

it looks different than the straight measurement you provided

Some people pull the jacket and measure, I don‘t because it’s hard to show on the tape. The difference is about 1/2”.

pulled measure method, as they advertised,