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Wanted an AERO, got a DOUBLE HELIX 1930 style

jr30

Familiar Face
Messages
90
Ladies and Gentlemen,

I'm not a native speaker, so please excuse my English - I'll try my best. Thanks!

[ INTRO ]
Yesterday afternoon I made a quick stop in town. It was unusually warm for the winter and I took advantage of the dry evening to walk through the shopping mile. I stopped in front of the window of a nice leather store because I saw an Aero Teamster on the mannequin. I've always wanted to try this model on, I was particularly interested in the length.

So I went in and asked the friendly salesperson to try the Aero Teamsters. With my 5'11 (180cm) and 183lbs (83kg) average stature, the salesman gave me the label size 42 - it was far too big for me, but the weight blew me away so I didn't want to try on the size 40 that was in stock. I felt like “the jacket was carrying me” and not the other way around.

Out of the corner of my eye I saw an indigo blue jacket. From a distance I thought it was a denim jacket, but then I saw it was made of leather. I immediately asked to try on the jacket. The seller mentioned that it comes from Japan. As a watch freak, I was already very familiar with the high craftsmanship of the Japanese (i.e. Grand Seiko), but the Japanese are also known for great leather and jackets.

C.jpeg


[ DOUBLE HELIX 1930 ]
In this case - and I am now introducing this jacket to you - it is a Double Helix (42) made of horsehide that feels soft and cuddly right from the start. Of course the jacket didn't 'broken in' but it has none of the stiffness of my FQHH Aero. The leather has an interesting color. It is sold as 'dark indigo'. There was also classic indigo available - it was lighter but too noticeable for my liking and the blue turned into turquoise.

The cut is based on the classic 1930 models with a half belt and side straps to adjust to the hips followed by three pancel back. I know that many leather jacket lovers like to wear short and tightly cut jackets. Nevertheless, I liked the slightly longer model, which also offers space for a thin sweater and enough movement. I was also able to try one label size down (40), but it was far too short on the sleeves and restrictive on the chest.

Inside it is lined with cotton and has an inside pocket. On the outside there are 2 slightly slanted pockets for the hands and an outside pocket with a zip on the chest. The jacket closes with a hookless zipper, which takes some getting used to. I took the jacket with me straight away.

How should I classify the jacket?
Leather:

The leather appears to be of high quality, although it does have one or two artifacts. Since it's a natural product, that's OK for me and makes the jacket a little more lively. Otherwise it would look too much like 'plastic'. The leather is extremely soft, not at the level of a lamb or goat, which is not desirable, but just great for a horse. Unfortunately I don't have a suitable tool to measure the thickness of the leather but think it has enough 'substance'. It seems, this jacket is not stuffed with anything (please find my question #2 below).

Pattern:
Already mentioned, the style is largely based on the 1930s with a half belt, but if you measure the typical key figures of jackets, you can see that the jacket is cut straight from the chest (pit-2-pit) towards the bottom. With the half belt you can tighten the waist, but I would prefer 1 to 1.5 inches smaller at the waist/hem. This is ok for layering, but a little tighter at the bottom would have been good for the cut.

Workmanship:
The workmanship is beyond any doubt, perhaps a tad below the level of my THEDI's (horsehide & buffalo), but certainly on the same level as my two AERO's (horsehide). There are rumors that these jackets may not be entirely made in Japan. My personal opinion: Anyone who has ever worked with leather knows that craftsmanship and strength are required. And these skills appear to have been implemented - so what ;)

Color:
I think the dark indigo color is particularly successful in this model. I already have jackets in brown, black and cognac. I haven't had any blue leather jackets yet. It is an eye-catcher and can certainly be combined well with common fashion. That makes it a bit of a 'fashion product' in my opinion, but in a positive sense.

For online shoppers: I'm always happy when I find photos with the exact measurements of the jacket and the wearer in posts. This can reduce a bad purchase somewhat.

Jacket measurements of my model in the label size 42 (inches):
- Back length (w/o collar) -- 25.60
- Sleeve length -- 25.80
- Pit-to-pit (1/2) -- 22.00
- Shoulder -- 18.00
- Waist/hem -- 22.00

Body Measurements (wearing a T-Shirt and Jeans with belt):
Size / Weight: 5'11 / 183 lbs (180cm / 83kg)
- Back length -- 25.50
- Sleeve length -- 25.75
- Pit-to-pit (1/2) -- 20.50 (41" chest)
- Shoulder -- 19.00
- Waist/hem (1/2) -- 20.40

Images:
The photos show the brand new 'unbroken' jacket. Please note that it is intended for layering and I prefer this model a little longer. Since these are interior images, I would like to say that I used a daylight lamp with around 5300 Kelvin. I think this is worth mentioning with this special indigo blue to get an idea.

=== ===
Help from the leather freaks:
1) Any trick to make the front zipper more slippery?

2) The seller said that he would treat this model with greased leather - which is also used for shoes - right from the start. I have never treated my FQHH Aero. Should I really do this? It seems, this jacket isn't stuffed with anything.

3) The seller says that rain can cause dark 'raindrops' to appear on the leather. He said just wear it again next time it rains. Is that OK?

4) How does this special blue leather age? What can I expect? Do you already have experience?

=== ===

You notice, I'm not an expert like many in this forum. All I want to do is wearing a nice jacket that I'll enjoy when I grab in the morning. Thank you for your attention.

I'm always happy to receive serious feedback!

Best regards
Roman
 

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jr30

Familiar Face
Messages
90
Fit pics... these images are named... :)
 

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Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,184
Zipper - use wax candle sticks on the tracks. But the Hookless isn't the easiest zipper to live with. You've gotta take the extra 5 seconds to zip at the start, make sure the pin goes fully down and hits the bottom before start zipping or it goes bust and needs zipper replacement. I rarely zip my Hookless jackets because I need to see it and take the extra time everytime I zip it. The design works just takes too much from the user.

Treatment - You don't need to treat it, just wear. The store probably sells mustang paste, it's expensive but popular conditioner among the Japanese crowd. I just wear mine and brush.

Rain darken - So this denim color is aniline finished? The black one is pigment and holds up in wet very well. I don't have the denim aniline. Just wear it and eventually all the spots will smooth out. It has a wet white tannage base and is as good as chrome tan base when it comes to water and heat.

denim color white core - I want one. This is the exact jacket I'd want but no size available for me from my sources... Aging photo from their Instagram:
Image1.jpg
 

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,544
Location
Switzerland
Help from the leather freaks:

2) The seller said that he would treat this model with greased leather - which is also used for shoes - right from the start. I have never treated my FQHH Aero. Should I really do this? It seems, this jacket isn't stuffed with anything.

3) The seller says that rain can cause dark 'raindrops' to appear on the leather. He said just wear it again next time it rains. Is that OK?
Treatment - You don't need to treat it, just wear. The store probably sells mustang paste, it's expensive but popular conditioner among the Japanese crowd. I just wear mine and brush.

Rain darken - So this denim color is aniline finished? The black one is pigment and holds up in wet very well. I don't have the denim aniline. Just wear it and eventually all the spots will smooth out. It has a wet white tannage base and is as good as chrome tan base when it comes to water and heat.
I think the dark indigo one is made from full aniline finish (same as their 1920s model). If so you can expect spectacular worn-in look in no time as seen on my frisco, worn twice in rainy conditions. As @Canuck Panda mentioned I wouldn't apply anything on this kind of leather or if only with a special conditioner for aniline leather easy to find at Migros/Micasa. Btw good pickup at Deeceestyle. I got both of mine DH's from them more expensive as directly from DH but you are able to try them on and support small local biz. Enjoy your new DH!
 

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,544
Location
Switzerland
Pattern:
Already mentioned, the style is largely based on the 1930s with a half belt, but if you measure the typical key figures of jackets, you can see that the jacket is cut straight from the chest (pit-2-pit) towards the bottom. With the half belt you can tighten the waist, but I would prefer 1 to 1.5 inches smaller at the waist/hem. This is ok for layering, but a little tighter at the bottom would have been good for the cut.
I had the same feeling about the "wider" waist measurements and have done this...
 

mumpy

A-List Customer
Messages
400
Zipper - use wax candle sticks on the tracks. But the Hookless isn't the easiest zipper to live with. You've gotta take the extra 5 seconds to zip at the start, make sure the pin goes fully down and hits the bottom before start zipping or it goes bust and needs zipper replacement. I rarely zip my Hookless jackets because I need to see it and take the extra time everytime I zip it. The design works just takes too much from the user.

Treatment - You don't need to treat it, just wear. The store probably sells mustang paste, it's expensive but popular conditioner among the Japanese crowd. I just wear mine and brush.

Rain darken - So this denim color is aniline finished? The black one is pigment and holds up in wet very well. I don't have the denim aniline. Just wear it and eventually all the spots will smooth out. It has a wet white tannage base and is as good as chrome tan base when it comes to water and heat.

denim color white core - I want one. This is the exact jacket I'd want but no size available for me from my sources... Aging photo from their Instagram:
View attachment 584091
I don't know, it looks like toothpaste to me.
 

IrishStu

One of the Regulars
Messages
203
Location
Ireland
I don't have the experience of other members on this forum,so I'll leave them to answer your questions. All I can say is wow. What a cool jacket. I expect it to age brilliantly. Enjoy.
 

jr30

Familiar Face
Messages
90
Thank you for the feedback so far. Today I took more indoor photos in daylight (cloudy day) without additional artificial light sources... Hope you like it!

IMG_8324.jpeg
 

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Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,463
Location
Europe
Super jacket!

Glad, I don’t live in Zürich. With DC Style and VMC, I’d be broke in two months even without having to try to dine out.

I believe, @Canuck Panda answered your questions perfectly. I too very rarely do any conditioning on my jackets.
How you go about rain is strictly personal. Most will say that any kind of patina will be desirable, but I fully understand the notion of wanting to preserve the jacket as it is for as long as possible. My rule of thumb is drizzle: no prob; torrential rain or bad weather forecast: grab a chrome tanned hide.

Yes, do be careful with the zipper!
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,184
Congrats again. Your jacket posting made me to take another look at this jacket last night. Haha.
I made a mistake thinking there was just one denim color, but its actually darker navy custom spec’ed by your local retailer. Which I think is a really nice. I believe the darker navy is dyed through and not white core, not sure I just couldn’t find any evolve pics. Can’t wait to see this some update pics when the weather gets a bit warmer.
 

jr30

Familiar Face
Messages
90
First of all, thank you for the detailed information regarding care and maintenance. That really helps.

Congrats again. Your jacket posting made me to take another look at this jacket last night. Haha.
I made a mistake thinking there was just one denim color, but its actually darker navy custom spec’ed by your local retailer. Which I think is a really nice. I believe the darker navy is dyed through and not white core, not sure I just couldn’t find any evolve pics. Can’t wait to see this some update pics when the weather gets a bit warmer.

Yes, the jacket was available in 2 indigo colors, like you said:
- classic denim* which tones into turquoise or in the words of @mumpy *toothpaste ;) (LOL)
- navy blue (my model)

collage.jpg

In my entry post, I've already seen that my iPhone doesn't display the colors 100% correctly, despite using a daylight lamp. That's why I took interior shots with daylight but without additional lighting and wore classic medium blue jeans and a white shirt. This gave reference colors and they are now correct (apart from the color deviation from monitor to monitor).

This image shows only the dark denim color of the jacket, all others are luminanced off (B/W).
IMG_8383.jpeg


Best regards
Roman
 
Last edited:

Will Zach

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,469
Location
SoFlo
First of all, thank you for the detailed information regarding care and maintenance. That really helps.



Yes, the jacket was available in 2 indigo colors, like you said:
- classic denim* which tones into turquoise or in the words of @mumpy *toothpaste ;) (LOL)
- navy blue (my model)

View attachment 584800

In my entry post, I've already seen that my iPhone doesn't display the colors 100% correctly, despite using a daylight lamp. That's why I took interior shots with daylight but without additional lighting and wore classic medium blue jeans and a white shirt. This gave reference colors and they are now correct (apart from the color deviation from monitor to monitor).

This image shows only the dark denim color of the jacket, all others are luminanced off (B/W).
View attachment 584801

Best regards
Roman
Nice work to show the actual color! Blues and browns are a b**ch to reproduce.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,711
Location
East Java
really cool steel blue kind of shade, perhaps once the undertone starts showing then perhaps it will get even more interesting, cool leather jacket/ coat, perhaps a touch long for a jacket with zipper box all the way to the hemline, but if you wear it unzipped most of the time then it's a great blazer kind of jacket. if one day the zipper fails and you send it for a new zipper I think having some splay from the hem line would look and work better for it.

congrats, wear it in good health
 

cbez

One Too Many
Messages
1,045
Location
CA
Interesting to me that dh makes similar boxy patterns that other brands get shit on here for lol

I saw a cool trucker kind but the back adjustment thing felt a little too extra
 

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