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Double Helix Works?

sshack

A-List Customer
Messages
382
Location
California
Hugging the Curve, stock size 44, black semi aniline horsehide

View attachment 570189 View attachment 570190 View attachment 570191 View attachment 570192 View attachment 570193 View attachment 570194

The measurements on the websit is based on the pulled measuring method.
View attachment 570195 View attachment 570196

What I think about this jacket:

1) Leather - is very thick, as thick as my heavyweight CXL FQHH, so at least 3.5oz or 1.5mm. But is as soft as the 3oz 1.2mm RMC Shinki. Feels waxy to the hand. I've never had a horsehide like this. I was expecting same as the other Tokyo brands but this stands out on its own. The hide is really nice.

Compared to the RMC Steinbeck half belt, steinbeck on top, hugging on bottom
View attachment 570197

2) Construction - can't complain, typical Japanese high end finishing. Same type of lining construction as RMC. The Hugging has an inside pocket, the RMC don't.

3) Fit - very, very similar to the RMC again. A bit longer in the front, made for untucked shirts. The forearm has a taper and can feel tight. The RMC fit pics here:

4) Price - the best part of this jacket. MSRP ¥173,800. With the two discounts code running everyweek on Rakuten, this jacket came in at ¥160,110, that's about £900, or $1,200. And as far as I can see, all the bigger sizes are the same prices, and they go up to 48, fits aquaman. The only other brand that consistently have bigger sizes is Y'2, all the rest of the Japanese brands don't usually stock anything over 42 in Japan.

One major negative, is the zipper. I almost broke the Hookless just by trying on. Some of them can be very finicky. I would say it's time for all repros to switch to ykk. It's fun to have a different zip, until it breaks, and replacement cost 150+, on top of an already expensive jacket.

That's all I've got. If you are shopping in this budget range or come across this jacket on the used market, it's worth to take a look.
Wow, this is the review I've been waiting for. I can't believe I just found this now-- this is what happens when I get too busy for FL. Thanks for posting.

Oh yeah-- How functional are the hand warmer pockets? Are they placed on the jacket where you can easily slip your hands in without having to reach super up/high on the torso? Does the zippered pocket opening scratch your hand (or expensive watch!) when you use it? I know... dainty ain't I? But had to ask.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,288
Wow, this is the review I've been waiting for. I can't believe I just found this now-- this is what happens when I get too busy for FL. Thanks for posting.

Oh yeah-- How functional are the hand warmer pockets? Are they placed on the jacket where you can easily slip your hands in without having to reach super up/high on the torso? Does the zippered pocket opening scratch your hand (or expensive watch!) when you use it? I know... dainty ain't I? But had to ask.
The zipper hand warmer pockets are not hand or watch friendly. They're mainly for storage. The zipper teeth will scratch the back of the hand and then bumps the side of the watch and if not careful the face...
The Hugging Curve isn't so much a riding jacket due to its length, so I figure they could do without the zippers on the hand warmers, like on their half belts.
 

sshack

A-List Customer
Messages
382
Location
California
For a reason I can't really explain, I love jackets with a slight A-shape like this DH or my FW Brakeman. Maybe it has something to do with the fact this cut stands out from the crowd and otherwise I have a V-body shape...

Edit: Of course there is some accentuations on lower section by wearing a full cut jean with quite some hip-flare a Fullcount 0105.

View attachment 595202
I've been so close to buying the jacket over the past year or two. It's interesting that the "A" cut/silhouette of your black jacket is more noticeable than on the indigo version.

It must be the same pattern. Do you think it's due to the way the different leather drapes?
 

sshack

A-List Customer
Messages
382
Location
California
Double Helix Type N-1 Deck jacket in horsehide review,

The short version,
The good, One of the best horsehides in the business imo, thick, grainy, oily, waxy, and PLIABLE out of the box
The bad, Tricky pattern, wide torso paired with same high armholes as patterns with one size slimmer torso...

The Long version,
View attachment 601137 View attachment 601138 View attachment 601139
View attachment 601149 View attachment 601150
View attachment 601151
View attachment 601153
View attachment 601154
So the long version will basically be my personal opinion about the fit of the pattern because the leather is awesome and nothing more or less to say about it.

The N-1 jacket doesn't have any contouring in the front panels. The Hugging Curve does, so the side panels wraps around to the front, where as the N-1 deck jacket front panels bleeds all the way to the edge. This would be fine if the torso is the same size as the Hugging curve, but it is not, making the already wide N-1 jacket looks even more boxy. I do suspect the N-1 torso was cut with alpaca liner in mind so the 24" width vs the 23", but the jacket only came with the same wool liner as the Hugging Curve, not alpaca pill liner, so there is more boxy fit shape. If this is just a military jacket I would be less critical, but for a "civilian" leather version, I would want more civilian stylish fits.

Downsizing to get the smaller P2P may or may not work, because the arm hole is already very high (not big) for the tag size. Unless the smaller size has the same arm hole height it may work, if it has smaller arm hole height then no. BTW, both the Hugging Curve and the Deck jacket are size 44, but Deck jacket is 24" P2P vs 23" for Hugging curve, and wider sleeves on the N-1 deck jacket with less forward rotation.

My 2 cents on the deck jacket fit is that, I would have hoped for more front contouring for it to look more fitted. I don't mind the wider torso, but it doesn't have to look boxy. My Aero Highwayman is same 24" width but it has contouring (similar to the Hugging Curve), so it looks more fitted but still good room to live through the winter. I feel that when leather version of a cloth military jacket is made, civilian fit looks could be taken into account.

Another small but can be big issue is the zipper. DH seems to stick with the small Hookless pull, they actually put it on the repro Talon (Waldes) track... For the weight of their jacket, over 8 lbs, I would think Universal(YKK) size 8 is probably the best long term option...
View attachment 601156

Circling back to the leather, it's great. Making this a mixed experience.

I ordered this jacket through FromJapan Proxy because I had a coupon. And my proxy then ordered it from DH's website. The lead time was about 2.5 months give or take, surprisingly shorter when compared to other Japanese brands pre-orders.

Maybe the best compromise would be to custom order the N-1 deck jacket with a custom taper. Size 44 goes from 24" at the pits down to 23" at the hem. It could get a Rainbow Country fit treatment where it tapers down to 21.5" at the waist and then flares out to 22" at the hem for a more flattering fit yet still functional.

View attachment 601160

Really great horsehide but boxy fits,

Mixed feelings...
To me, the fit looks really good on you. Better than your Hugging Curve. How do the armholes feel though. Tight? I've been eyeing this jacket as well.

How's the quality of the collar?
 

dovahkiiin93

New in Town
Messages
22
Hugging the Curve, stock size 44, black semi aniline horsehide

View attachment 570189 View attachment 570190 View attachment 570191 View attachment 570192 View attachment 570193 View attachment 570194

The measurements on the websit is based on the pulled measuring method.
View attachment 570195 View attachment 570196

What I think about this jacket:

1) Leather - is very thick, as thick as my heavyweight CXL FQHH, so at least 3.5oz or 1.5mm. But is as soft as the 3oz 1.2mm RMC Shinki. Feels waxy to the hand. I've never had a horsehide like this. I was expecting same as the other Tokyo brands but this stands out on its own. The hide is really nice.

Compared to the RMC Steinbeck half belt, steinbeck on top, hugging on bottom
View attachment 570197

2) Construction - can't complain, typical Japanese high end finishing. Same type of lining construction as RMC. The Hugging has an inside pocket, the RMC don't.

3) Fit - very, very similar to the RMC again. A bit longer in the front, made for untucked shirts. The forearm has a taper and can feel tight. The RMC fit pics here:
[/URL]

4) Price - the best part of this jacket. MSRP ¥173,800. With the two discounts code running everyweek on Rakuten, this jacket came in at ¥160,110, that's about £900, or $1,200. And as far as I can see, all the bigger sizes are the same prices, and they go up to 48, fits aquaman. The only other brand that consistently have bigger sizes is Y'2, all the rest of the Japanese brands don't usually stock anything over 42 in Japan.

One major negative, is the zipper. I almost broke the Hookless just by trying on. Some of them can be very finicky. I would say it's time for all repros to switch to ykk. It's fun to have a different zip, until it breaks, and replacement cost 150+, on top of an already expensive jacket.

That's all I've got. If you are shopping in this budget range or come across this jacket on the used market, it's worth to take a look.
Im confused, they measure the shoulder going from the side up diagonal to the base of the collar and going down diogonaly again to the other side?

it looks different than the straight measurement you provided
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,288
To me, the fit looks really good on you. Better than your Hugging Curve. How do the armholes feel though. Tight? I've been eyeing this jacket as well.

How's the quality of the collar?
Arm hole is high on this one. You know there are the two kinds of deck jacket one has higher and one has the lower arm hole this one has the higher one. I see some here prefer one over the other so keep that in mind. Collar is great, they use Colomer mouton, just like the other top brands, veg tan from southern Europe.
Another thing is their deck jacket only comes with a wool liner, whereas the Y2 comes with the pill liner. It’ll depend on how warm you need it to be, it’s a deck jacket after all.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,288
Im confused, they measure the shoulder going from the side up diagonal to the base of the collar and going down diogonaly again to the other side?

it looks different than the straight measurement you provided
Some people pull the jacket and measure, I don‘t because it’s hard to show on the tape. The difference is about 1/2”.

pulled measure method, as they advertised,
IMG_5631.jpeg
IMG_5642.jpeg
 

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,560
Location
Switzerland
Recently I shuddered when I saw this announcement of a new dh leather jacket on a re-seller (see my insta story below).

I also contacted DH directly and apologized for this miserable presentation and regretted, so much work went into designing and making these jackets was destroyed within seconds with such a presentation.

Unfortunately, this re-seller isn't the only one who mess up a classic design presenting in this kind of modern way.
I am not against modernity but a little more humility towards the person behind these garments would be appropriate. Or to put it simply, the jacket looks like sh*t on this model, period.


FL_Redcast.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,038
Recently I shuddered when I saw this announcement of a new dh leather jacket on a re-seller (see my insta story below).

I also contacted DH directly and apologized for this miserable presentation and regretted, so much work went into designing and making these jackets was destroyed within seconds with such a presentation.

Unfortunately, this re-seller isn't the only one who mess up a classic design presenting in this kind of modern way.
I am not against modernity but a little more humility towards the person behind these garments would be appropriate. Or to put it simply, the jacket looks like sh*t on this model, period.


View attachment 609343
That's a terribly bad fit, can't get much worse to be honest.


Unfortunately, this re-seller isn't the only one who mess up a classic design presenting in this kind of modern way.
There's nothing wrong with combining classic jacket designs with a more modern wardrobe, if done right.

IMG_9621.jpeg
IMG_9620.jpeg
 
Messages
17,263
Location
Chicago
Recently I shuddered when I saw this announcement of a new dh leather jacket on a re-seller (see my insta story below).

I also contacted DH directly and apologized for this miserable presentation and regretted, so much work went into designing and making these jackets was destroyed within seconds with such a presentation.

Unfortunately, this re-seller isn't the only one who mess up a classic design presenting in this kind of modern way.
I am not against modernity but a little more humility towards the person behind these garments would be appropriate. Or to put it simply, the jacket looks like sh*t on this model, period.


View attachment 609343
I'm not convinced this jacket can be saved by any particular physique. The bean pole isn't helping, but I see lots wrong with it regardless the wearer.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,288
Presentation is very important. It's best to just put the jacket on a dress form and position the arms out so the potential shopper can see the shape of the torso and how the sleeve bends.
posing.jpg


A lot of retailers take bad photos because they don't want to put creases in a expensive new jacket. I think the dress forms helps a lot to showcase the jackets without creasing them, like the store front window mannequins - a thing of the past now... Window shopping is now shopping using windows 10...
 

cbez

One Too Many
Messages
1,246
Location
CA
That's a terribly bad fit, can't get much worse to be honest.



There's nothing wrong with combining classic jacket designs with a more modern wardrobe, if done right.

View attachment 609349 View attachment 609350
I wouldn't call it modern wardrobe..lots of higher rise, boot cut pants, pleats, and fairly classic shoes and boots.

It's not 16" rise wool trousers but still.

(The indian ranger especially looks out of place to me).

Is it just me or is that new double helix weirdly roomy in the chest in both pics? That to me says pattern issue since they are both in shape, normal looking dudes but aren't 'filling it out' (ignoring the black guys lanky arms).
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,038
I wouldn't call it modern wardrobe..lots of higher rise,

pleats, and fairly classic shoes and boots.

Higher rise, pleats and 'classic shoes' aren't modern?

Take a look at the Lardini 2024 spring summer collection. This is just an example. Higher rise and pleats are in fashion. Modern fashion.

IMG_9628.jpeg


boot cut pants

Where? All those pants look tapered.
Is it just me or is that new double helix weirdly roomy in the chest in both pics? That to me says pattern issue since they are both in shape, normal looking dudes but aren't 'filling it out' (ignoring the black guys lanky arms).

I don't think it's a pattern issue, those dudes are lanky.

Not the exact same jacket but a DH and the pattern looks similar.

IMG_1553.jpeg
 

cbez

One Too Many
Messages
1,246
Location
CA
They are 'modern' ish but only because current trend is still taking cues from that period.

that fit does look better but still has some of the weird chest /armpit thing going on that kind of gives a beer belly impression when we know mark is in shape.

maybe I am just nitpicking or they just need some break in time.

jacket.jpg
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,702
Skinny and low rise has been out of fashion for years, so ironically it's generally a sign of people here being out of touch with fashion when they think those are trendy. :D (I'm not insulting here!) Most infamously, Zangy kept calling us out of touch fashionistas about his X-Files jacket, when some of us kept pointing out that that oversize 90s look was if anything far more fashionable than anything we wear!
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,976
Location
Europe
Skinny and low rise has been out of fashion for years, so ironically it's generally a sign of people here being out of touch with fashion when they think those are trendy. :D (I'm not insulting here!) Most infamously, Zangy kept calling us out of touch fashionistas about his X-Files jacket, when some of us kept pointing out that that oversize 90s look was if anything far more fashionable than anything we wear!
So I like my low rise jeans and chinos ;)
And even worse, I wear sneakers with my leather jackets lol
The cool thing these days is that everyone can wear what they want and nobody cares.
 

cbez

One Too Many
Messages
1,246
Location
CA
I'd say it's a medium/normal rise rn.


but yes, ultra low rise/super slim hasn't been in for a while.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,702
So I like my low rise jeans and chinos ;)
And even worse, I wear sneakers with my leather jackets lol
The cool thing these days is that everyone can wear what they want and nobody cares.

I’m not telling anyone that he must follow fashion trends haha. I’m just saying that actually the fashion trends are the opposite of what many people on TFL assume.
 

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