Fabric weight

[Terrytango]

Hi I want to get a 1940's double breasted style suit made, two questions, where to go to get it made, and what weight fabric for an authentic look.

 

[Tomasso]

You can visit one of the old line Savile Row tailors and have them use a 40's pattern from their archives. With their assistance you can visit W.Bill and pick out a tweed or flannel from their vintage collection. All it takes is money.

 

[avedwards]

I think they can be answered. Matt Deckard (a bartender here) is a bespoke tailor and the reviews his suits get here make them sound quite nice to say the least. Some of the suits also have interesting vintage details such as half belts, action backs etc.

Here's his thread: http://thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=30906

Perhaps if you contact him via PM he may be able to advise you on material weight.


Also, as Tomasso said, Saville Row is where all the expert tailors are. If you have the money I doubt you could go wrong there. One day I may find out about their quality myself as buying a Saville Row suit is something I'd like to do if I ever have the money.

 

[Tomasso]

Matt Deckard (a bartender here) is a stylist

I fixed that for you.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

.




True. So were Charles Wetzel and Eddie Schmidt, and they did all right.


.

 

[Tomasso]

It wasn't meant as a pejorative, just being accurate. Mariano Rubinacci is a stylist and I would have no qualms about being his customer.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

It wasn't meant as a pejorative, ...

Oh, I know you didn't mean it that way. However, other Loungers could have misinterpreted your words, so I responded by mentioning the heads of the most prestigious (and expensive) golden era U.S. tailoring houses in the east and west coasts: "Wetzel, Inc." and "Eddie Schmidt, Inc."


.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Go to a long established tailor in your town. I'm pretty sure there is one in Rye or in a nearby town. They will likely have old patterns hanging around. Any competent tailor can work from a pattern; no reason to go to the expense of Savile Row.

The weight of the fabric of course is the important thing if you want the correct drape in trousers and chest/shoulder area. Work with your local tailor and discuss the fabric weight. If he mentions the word "Super" send him packing.

Your local tailor will cost the same or less than Deckard Apparel; I'd go to local country tailor if i were you. Having a close relationship - and therefore mutual trust; it's like psychoanalysis in many ways - with your tailor is the most important part of the process.

bk