Fedora special! Horween X Vanson

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by red devil, Dec 5, 2019.

  1. Hh121

    Hh121 One Too Many

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    1,564
    That would be the thickest part of jacket, Vanson shave their leather.
    Johnson leather tested the thickness of my 8 lbs Enfiled(Wrist gusset), it is 2mm. So there is no way thier leather is 1.5mm thick
     
  2. Kalmer

    Kalmer Familiar Face

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    71

    Well think about Schott. Most leather Schott uses are kinda thin and relatively soft compared to heavy Horween leather.

    But still, from some point Schott started to carry some special run of limited jackets made of heavy Horween leather every year and they are fabulous.

    So I don’t think this should be a problem.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  3. red devil

    red devil One Too Many

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    That is a very good point and one to warn everybody, you will not recoup as much you usually do should you decide to flip. Not a problem for me as I have never sold any of my jackets so far.
    I would hope that the whole process, if it goes through, as in the discussion here, the special order by like minded individuals and of course a good fitting jacket, would create enough attachment to combat this compulsion :)

    Exactly

    If we can show them that there is a market with this order... it might happen.

    Speaking of Horween, I have a batch of thinner CXL that I bought for a project a few years ago. Didn't go through with it. It is about 1mm thick, so not that heavy, but really fantastic (showed it to a leather worker who confirmed).
    Picking up leather is not a special skill, it just comes with some experience, so I wouldn't worry about that aspect in sourcing it.
     
  4. Carlos840

    Carlos840 Call Me a Cab

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    On all my Vansons the gussets, both the sleeves and the waist ones are noticeably thicker than the rest of the jacket, even on my Thinner CHP.
    The fact that gussets are 2mm doesn't mean the rest of the jacket is...
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2019
  5. Carlos840

    Carlos840 Call Me a Cab

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    If this madness actually goes through, i am getting a Heavy Cordovan CXL steer Commando, modified with 1" less in the body and a funky lining. A Gambler would be nice, but i know the sizing of the Commando works for me, and i am not sure i would risk a an odd fitting Gambler against a well fitting Commando.
    And who am i kidding, i am in this for the D pockets...
     
  6. red devil

    red devil One Too Many

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    Life would be boring without a touch of madness :D
     
  7. Jejupe

    Jejupe Practically Family

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    I wouldn't be willing to pay USD 1200 or more for a horween vanson. A horween Langlitz would be another matter...
     
    Colin G, hondurasdave47 and Hh121 like this.
  8. Hh121

    Hh121 One Too Many

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    I am saying compare with the thickness of wrist gusset, other part of the jacket is probably only 1mm thick, unlike they claimed 1.5mm
     
    Psant25 likes this.
  9. Bfd70

    Bfd70 One Too Many

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    My arm could potentially be twisted if there were a special TFL tag and they were numbered.

    And if anyone omes to Chicago to pick hides at horween I will supply libations.
     
    handymike, Fonzie, Boyo and 3 others like this.
  10. El Marro

    El Marro One Too Many

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    I think the two makers are quite comparable actually and Vanson stock patterns fit me as well or better than Langlitz custom made.
     
    SinSir and Monitor like this.
  11. Jejupe

    Jejupe Practically Family

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    Good for you! I am not so lucky and I find Vanson's customization too expensive.
     
  12. jpk_NJ

    jpk_NJ A-List Customer

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    If memory serves me, in one of my chats with Vanson, the original tannery they were using went out of business and they were trying new sources. That would definitely explain a much wider variation in hides.

    As for sourcing your own leather, I would only maybe attempt that with a 50% discount. Material is the biggest cost of the product and it's completely on you if the hides are bad. You also have to purchase the CXL by the side which isn't cheap. And then ordering blindly over the net vs visually selecting hides in person. I've seen CXL vary the same if not more than the Comp weight. Some lovely waxy marbled, others dry matte looking. Too many variables for me since Im kind of a control freak ha. If I could pick the hides, jacket price reflected me sourcing material / taking the risk, then I might consider it. Still a lot of work just for a jacket though...
     
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  13. Bfd70

    Bfd70 One Too Many

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    Not really “work” just part of the diversion. Isn’t that what TFL is after all?
     
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  14. jpk_NJ

    jpk_NJ A-List Customer

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    True. I guess my addiction isn't quite at that level yet! Not that theres anything wrong with it. For me, I draw the line at sourcing my own liner material since there's no variation in a fabric role from yd' to yd. What you see / feel on sample is what you get.

    Now...if Vanson sourced / supplied the Horween and charged a premium Id be in.
     
    Psant25 likes this.
  15. Carlos840

    Carlos840 Call Me a Cab

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    Thing is the variation issue would be the same if you ordered a jacket straight from most makers...
    Even the Horween CXL Aero uses has quite a large variation from batch to batch and jacket to jacket.
    Some brown is browner, some is redder, some are grainy, some are smooth, even if you get samples there is literally no guarantee you are going to receive a jacket made from a leather that looks exactly the same, unless the sample is from the exact hide that will be used for your jacket.
    I have received samples of Natural CXL that looked nothign like what other peoples samples were...
    And both my black CXL jackets look completely different.

    Personally, sourcing the leather is a risk i would be ready to take, as i don't think it is different from leaving it to the maker.
    We each see different things in different leather and there is no guarantee that the maker and I would both see the same thing in a specific hide.

    Actually, the safest way is probably to send @ton312 over to hand select the hides at Horween! The man knows what makes great Steer CXL...
    I am pretty sure he can also comment on the variation in leather ordering straight from Aero, he has had at least 4 different Heavy Steer CXL jackets and only one reached Legendary Hide status!

    Ordering a leather jacket without seeing it first is always a gamble.

    Edit : (Tony did you talk to Kim?)
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2019
    Monitor, Guppy, SinSir and 2 others like this.
  16. Boyo

    Boyo One Too Many

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    would it work if we all chose the same jacket/pattern and leather and then added some specific or unique TFL customization so that in the end it becomes a run of 10-12 unique "Lounge" jackets...


    might help the resale..
     
    steve u likes this.
  17. red devil

    red devil One Too Many

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    It wouldn't be the first time I sourced something for a jacket. The last item that made it into a jacket is the wool liner for my Thedi Grizzly and that worked splendidly.
    I might have also found the next project to use my thinner navy CXL... To be continued :rolleyes:

    Pretty much this
     
  18. ton312

    ton312 I'll Lock Up

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    Haven’t had the chance yet but plan to! I have two weeks off over Christmas and I might try and swing by Horween to get an idea of what this would actually cost and what is available. I will share my findings.
     
  19. red devil

    red devil One Too Many

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    That visit would be worthy of a thread in itself :)

    It would be the chance to sample their other leathers such as the Dublin, Essex and Latigo

    Edit: fixed weird sentence
     
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  20. El Marro

    El Marro One Too Many

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    If I receive a jacket from a maker and there is a problem or defect in the leather that is visible to me right away or shortly after receipt of the jacket I will reach out to them without hesitation and insist that they correct this problem, probably with a complete remake of the jacket.
    I don’t think you have that recourse when you source the leather and provide it to the maker. As I mentioned in an earlier post I have direct experience with this and when I discovered a flaw in the leather of my custom jacket there was nothing I could do about it.
     
    Guppy, Psant25 and Carlos840 like this.

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