Field Leathers

[mvilla]

Hey, guys! I'll soon(ish) be another owner of a fine Field Leathers jacket, as I placed an order with Greg just a couple weeks ago!
I got into this in an awkward way, as I don't know shite about leather jackets, and honestly never even thought about spending so much in one...
It started when I decided I wanted to buy a leather jacket because they look nice. Rugged with a pinch of badass. I got this idea after visiting some thrift stores and seeing some cool stuff, but none that actually did it for me. I really liked trying those double rider style jackets, so I decided to go for a Schott 618. Well, I bought one in haste from ebay, which proved to be a big mistake... I got what was supposed to be a "new without tags" for £340, which seemed to be a nice deal, but then after a while, I noticed the previous owner had butchered shortened the sleeves, which made it look funny. I managed to "unfold" some of the sleeve that was tucked in, and gained a couple inches in length (any guy knows that 2in can make a huge difference... ok, sorry for the terrible joke). I took it to a tailor and he added an ugly ribbing and called it a day. Anyway, I have now this jacket with some creases and a fucked up zipper on the sleeves. The length is alright, but I came to realise this double rider style really doesn't work for me...
So, after this bad experience, I started browsing and found some cool stuff from Japan, but got kind of scared with the prices I saw for some jackets at Rivet and Hide. I then turned back to eBay and found a cool A2 jacket by Aero and went on to research about the brand. I didn't want to do anything hurried, such as in my previous purchase, so I decided to understand better what I was going for. Anyway, in this search, I found a post in that "Almost Vintage" blog, reviewing his Aero jacket and showing some faults on the stitching, saying Aero horsehide ain't the best out there, while high praising Greg, the dude who made his jacket. Honestly, I would've never notice those defects, but it is weird how once you get the "details bug", it's hard to get over it, so I gave up on Aero. I also learned from that blog that Greg left Aero and started his own brand... I followed the link to his IG page. Well, that was when I started to accept I'd have to spend a few quid on a nice leather jacket. Pretty cool stuff all over the place. Cool designs with bespoke fitting!
I don't just go spending that much money on anything, really... Therefore, for me it was a good thing that there's a long waiting time for one of his jackets, as I will have enough time to spare some money each month before it comes my time to complete the order (I only paid the first deposit so far!)
I hope that by the time it is my turn to have my jacket made, I'll have learned a little and will be able to come up with something cool.
I'm thinking I'll go with a design such as a Highwayman (even though I still cannot completely tell what defines it), with a Lochcarron green plaid lining. From the models I've seen so far in general, my favorite has been the Freewheelers Mulholland, which apparently is not exactly a Highwayman, but it is close enough. The main features I like from that jacket is the clean back and the stitching details on the bottom hem, with the low belt. From Field Leathers instagram page, I really liked the button cuff on Marc's modified Manhattan, so I'm thinking about asking for something like that. I don't like the stitching connecting the two pockets on the Mulholland, so I'm scratching that out.
Before all of this, I thought ordering a jacket was just a case of going to a store and picking it out of a rack, but now it all seems pretty complex haha. I have no clue of what I'm doing, honestly.
Just to finalise this never ending post, I got to say that I only found this forum because I was seeking for reviews of Field Leathers, so thank you for the info I was already able to gather from here! And probably I will keep coming here to ask a ton more of questions, as apparently I'll have a loong time to wait! Cheers!

 

[Aloysius]

A lot to respond to here, so I'll just tackle two points:

The length is alright, but I came to realise this double rider style really doesn't work for me...

It's possible, but given how butchered your jacket was, I don't think it says much for how you would find a properly fitting/non destroyed one.

Anyway, in this search, I found a post in that "Almost Vintage" blog, reviewing his Aero jacket and showing some faults on the stitching, saying Aero horsehide ain't the best out there, while high praising Greg, the dude who made his jacket. Honestly, I would've never notice those defects, but it is weird how once you get the "details bug", it's hard to get over it, so I gave up on Aero.

That is a truly awful review, proved by the fact that when someone who is the right size bought the jacket off of the blogger wore it, it fit perfectly. I don't mean this as a dig against the author, who is a respected member here. Rather, we are all learning more and getting a better understanding of things like pattern, materials, and construction. Things like blog posts can crystallize a moment as being the definitive opinion. I've certainly had many of these over the years, immortalized on forums or other places. I wouldn't pay them heed if I saw them now.

Aero might not be for you (although given that you are mentioning the Highwayman, a the Aero design, as your desired jacket type, it probably is…) but I would not use this blog post or its fixation on things like stitch counts as the criterion to decide on Aero, which is an excellent maker (I say this owning modern and vintage, American and Japanese, etc). Furthermore, AVS's Aero wasn't made of horsehide; it was made of Badalassi cowhide, which AVS still loves.

As for the horsehides Aero uses, they're all good as well. I don't know what gave you the impression Aero uses subpar materials. The Chromexcel leather (whether horse or steer) is quite stiff at first and not suited to all purposes, but I still wouldn't call it a bad quality material. It is rather sought after. My favourite boots are made of CXL. You an also select a pre-broken in Chromexcel from Aero; they call it "tumbled". See a great example here.

From the models I've seen so far in general, my favorite has been the Freewheelers Mulholland, which apparently is not exactly a Highwayman, but it is close enough. The main features I like from that jacket is the clean back and the stitching details on the bottom hem, with the low belt. From Field Leathers instagram page, I really liked the button cuff on Marc's modified Manhattan, so I'm thinking about asking for something like that. I don't like the stitching connecting the two pockets on the Mulholland, so I'm scratching that out.

From this it sounds like you're looking for a straight-zip CHP jacket. I wouldn't (personally) go with Greg for this because it's not one of his designs. He'd have to make you an approximation, or develop a pattern for you.

Those stitches that come off of the pockets are a Cal signature, but not every maker used them. From what you're talking about, it seems like the Aero CHP jacket, minus the badge holder and belt loops, plus waist cinches is what you're after.

Personally–and anyone is welcome to disagree with me–I think one will get the most out of a Field Leathers order if he has already gotten a sense for his proper sizing and fit needs from existing jackets, whether vintage or ready to wear or both.

Otherwise, the pricey Field order will be something of a missed opportunity. You won't know what to pay attention to, during the fitting process, and will realise some time into owning the jacket that there was a change that would have made the whole thing better.

 

[mvilla]

oh, wow! this was a very thorough and educating reply, I really appreciate it!

It's possible, but given how butchered your jacket was, I don't think it says much for how you would find a properly fitting/non destroyed one.

The thing is, I think the model is too flashy to me, with all the snaps, chrome, epaulet and belt. I prefer a more understated visual. I believe I was really just stargazed by the fantasy of being a motorcyclist, I guess... I'd be interested on fixing the jacket, though... Just to have it around if I ever change my mind.

Aero might not be for you (although given that you are mentioning the Highwayman, a the Aero design, as your desired jacket type, it probably is…) but I would not use this blog post or its fixation on things like stitch counts as the criterion to decide on Aero, which is an excellent maker (I say this owning modern and vintage, American and Japanese, etc). Furthermore, AVS's Aero wasn't made of horsehide; it was made of Badalassi cowhide, which AVS still loves.

As for the horsehides Aero uses, they're all good as well. I don't know what gave you the impression Aero uses subpar materials. The Chromexcel leather (whether horse or steer) is quite stiff at first and not suited to all purposes, but I still wouldn't call it a bad quality material. It is rather sought after. My favourite boots are made of CXL. You an also select a pre-broken in Chromexcel from Aero; they call it "tumbled". See a great example here.

This is fair enough, and I'd agree that basing my opinion in only one post would be biasing my information with the author's. Anyhow, I feel my impulse to pick up the particular A2 model I was looking at would be more or less the same that happened with the double rider, just fantasising on being a pilot or something (note, I'm saying this for my own use and personal style, I still find it pretty cool when I see other people wearing it, just like the double rider).

I know his jacket was made of Badalassi, and he states there he really likes this type of leather, but he also mentions Aero horsehide ain't the best, and the jacket I was seeing on eBay is made out of horsehide. I don't think the horsehide used on that jacket is CXL horsehide, though... Aero uses CXL horsehide as standard? I do like CXL on my boots, that's for sure. I'm not a fan of tumbled leather, though...

From this it sounds like you're looking for a straight-zip CHP jacket. I wouldn't (personally) go with Greg for this because it's not one of his designs. He'd have to make you an approximation, or develop a pattern for you.

Those stitches that come off of the pockets are a Cal signature, but not every maker used them. From what you're talking about, it seems like the Aero CHP jacket, minus the badge holder and belt loops, plus waist cinches is what you're after.

I love that you are suggesting models by name! This one by Aero looks pretty cool, indeed, and removing the badge holder, loops it would be pretty close to the design I'd like. I found the back to be too wide though... Is it just my impression? Does Aero offer any MTO to make this type of changes? I couldn't find anywhere the specification of the leather used too.

Personally–and anyone is welcome to disagree with me–I think one will get the most out of a Field Leathers order if he has already gotten a sense for his proper sizing and fit needs from existing jackets, whether vintage or ready to wear or both.

Otherwise, the pricey Field order will be something of a missed opportunity. You won't know what to pay attention to, during the fitting process, and will realise some time into owning the jacket that there was a change that would have made the whole thing better.

I liked the idea of MTO and MTM Greg offered, with the option to choose leather, lining and measurements. I do agree with you that perhaps I may screw up with my measurements, as I am not experienced in this world... But then again, it could be a nice opportunity for me to really dive into this and develop real interest into knowing what I'm doing and what I'm going for. I could just pick up a ready made jacket and could fall in love with it. I know that I never had an MTO or MTM boot an I still quite enjoy them. But I feel I'd like to give my personal touch to something, and the jacket just seem to be a great option... Perhaps that is true that I shouldn't be going this route as my introduction, and perhaps it is something that I am rushing once more, but I suppose I could give it a shot.

Once more, I really appreciate you taking your time and writing all of this!

 

[MrProper]

Does Aero offer any MTO to make this type of changes? I couldn't find anywhere the specification of the leather used too.

At Aero you choose a size that is closest to your measurements (p2p, shoulders) and the rest you configure according to your wishes.
Leather, lining and some details you can also choose. None of my Aeros are standard.

 

[Aloysius]

The thing is, I think the model is too flashy to me, with all the snaps, chrome, epaulet and belt. I prefer a more understated visual. I believe I was really just stargazed by the fantasy of being a motorcyclist, I guess... I'd be interested on fixing the jacket, though... Just to have it around if I ever change my mind.

I'm just talking about cross-zip styles in general, not the specific Perfecto pockets and hardware.

I know his jacket was made of Badalassi, and he states there he really likes this type of leather, but he also mentions Aero horsehide ain't the best, and the jacket I was seeing on eBay is made out of horsehide. I don't think the horsehide used on that jacket is CXL horsehide, though... Aero uses CXL horsehide as standard? I do like CXL on my boots, that's for sure. I'm not a fan of tumbled leather, though...

To be quite frank, this was written during a period of many people here believing that all horsehide that wasn't made by the Shinki Hikaku tannery in Japan is subpar…

This followed an earlier period of people treating every horsehide that wasn't CXL as subpar.

Both were wrong-headed and frankly ignorant points of view.

CXL is one of Aero's standard leathers, but not the only one.

I love that you are suggesting models by name! This one by Aero looks pretty cool, indeed, and removing the badge holder, loops it would be pretty close to the design I'd like. I found the back to be too wide though... Is it just my impression? Does Aero offer any MTO to make this type of changes? I couldn't find anywhere the specification of the leather used too.

Aero is entirely MTO, unless you buy a stock or used jacket.

I liked the idea of MTO and MTM Greg offered, with the option to choose leather, lining and measurements. I do agree with you that perhaps I may screw up with my measurements, as I am not experienced in this world... But then again, it could be a nice opportunity for me to really dive into this and develop real interest into knowing what I'm doing and what I'm going for.

You can do this with Aero, Vanson, Thedi, Lewis, and many others. It's a riskier proposition with Field (who is an excellent craftsman, to be clear) simply because his business and patterns are newer, whereas those other firms have the core down by now.

This is a different situation from walking into a bespoke tailor's shop and having him measure you up and 'do the work' for you. It's very customer driven.

If you already know your core fit requirements, then you can make the most of a Field order. If you use a used jacket to dial the fit in, you can resell it for the same amount and break even.

 

[mvilla]

At Aero you choose a size that is closest to your measurements (p2p, shoulders) and the rest you configure according to your wishes.
Leather, lining and some details you can also choose. None of my Aeros are standard.

Hey! this one is pretty cool!

Karsten on Instagram: "And Julie has delivered again. Beautiful Premier Highwayman in black Badalassi leather, brown stitching, brass hardware, Lochcarron tartan "Campbell of Cawdor Weathered". Thank you @julieleitch1 and @aeroleatherclothing. The ja

2,038 likes, 51 comments - krstnkln9000December 23, 2022 on : "And Julie has delivered again. Beautiful Premier Highwayman in black Badalassi leather, brown stitching, brass hardware, Lochcarron tarta..."

www.instagram.com

How much something like this goes for, if you don't mind me asking

 

[Aloysius]

Hey! this one is pretty cool!

http://[URL]https://www.instagram.com/p/Cmg19H1IAvI/

[/URL]

How much something like this goes for, if you don't mind me asking

£840 in the UK (£700 without VAT). £120 premium for Badalassi.

 

[MrProper]

Hey! this one is pretty cool!

http://[URL]https://www.instagram.com/p/Cmg19H1IAvI/

[/URL]

How much something like this goes for, if you don't mind me asking

thanks.
Exactly as described by Aloysius.

 

[mvilla]

I'm just talking about cross-zip styles in general, not the specific Perfecto pockets and hardware.

Fair, I haven't had much contact with cross zips, really. So it could be a possibility... At the moment, I am more drawn towards the "straight zip" (is it even the right term?), though

To be quite frank, this was written during a period of many people here believing that all horsehide that wasn't made by the Shinki Hikaku tannery in Japan is subpar…

This followed an earlier period of people treating every horsehide that wasn't CXL as subpar.

Both were wrong-headed and frankly ignorant points of view.

CXL is one of Aero's standard leathers, but not the only one.

Got it! makes sense... honestly, I am not a great fan of how boots made with oily shinki horsehide age, but I do love seeing the jackets with teacore leather (I know people in this thread prefer the full aniline variant, but I do like seeing the pictures of the teacore ones...)

Aero is entirely MTO, unless you buy a stock or used jacket.

TIL! thanks

You can do this with Aero, Vanson, Thedi, Lewis, and many others. It's a riskier proposition with Field (who is an excellent craftsman, to be clear) simply because his business and patterns are newer, whereas those other firms have the core down by now.

And how's their pricing compared to Field Leathers? I like the idea of buying form a company here in UK, so I browsed into Lewis Leathers and Eastman websites. I didn't find nothing that really caught my attention on Eastman website, and I found "the corsair" from Lewis Leathers, but felt it was somewhat expensive for what it was offering (no offense, in my newbie eyes, I saw a plain black jacket for over £1k). Aero has more models that got to my taste!

This is a different situation from walking into a bespoke tailor's shop and having him measure you up and 'do the work' for you. It's very customer driven.

If you already know your core fit requirements, then you can make the most of a Field order. If you use a used jacket to dial the fit in, you can resell it for the same amount and break even.

It really is, I agree 100% with you. But if is about the same price to go with MTM and off the rack, why not try to make the best out of it and make use of this possibility?

 

[Aloysius]

Got it! makes sense... honestly, I am not a great fan of how boots made with oily shinki horsehide age, but I do love seeing the jackets with teacore leather (I know people in this thread prefer the full aniline variant, but I do like seeing the pictures of the teacore ones...)

While they don’t use the “teacore” marketing term, CXL, Aero “jerky horsehide”, “blackened brown Vicenza”, “Kelpie” and many other leathers have a dark top coat on a brown core.

And how's their pricing compared to Field Leathers? I like the idea of buying form a company here in UK, so I browsed into Lewis Leathers and Eastman websites. I didn't find nothing that really caught my attention on Eastman website, and I found "the corsair" from Lewis Leathers, but felt it was somewhat expensive for what it was offering (no offense, in my newbie eyes, I saw a plain black jacket for over £1k). Aero has more models that got to my taste!

I’m not saying to go with those. I’m just giving examples. Lewis is a top tier maker when it comes to patterns.

Yes, Aero is the best bet for what you’re looking for, but I gave those other (mostly UK) options because a few minutes ago you were vehemently anti-Aero based on a bad blog post, lol.

None of the others make the type of jacket you’re looking for, except Vanson with their own CHP jacket but that one is a cross-zip so it’s not what you’re looking for.

It really is, I agree 100% with you. But if is about the same price to go with MTM and off the rack, why not try to make the best out of it and make use of this possibility?

I don’t think you’re understanding. MTM will always be based on a firm’s existing patterns. With the older firms, these patterns are much more honed and established. Also I’m not sure how you came to the view that Field is MTM but Aero/Lewis are not.

With a new business, it’s much more of a guessing game. Aero, Lewis, etc will be MTM… but there’s much less guessing in it.

Field can theoretically do anything, but this demands a lot of knowledge from the customer.

 

[mvilla]

While they don’t use the “teacore” marketing term, CXL, Aero “jerky horsehide”, “blackened brown Vicenza”, “Kelpie” and many other leathers have a dark top coat on a brown core.

Good to know!

I’m not saying to go with those. I’m just giving examples. Lewis is a top tier maker when it comes to patterns.

Yes, Aero is the best bet for what you’re looking for, but I gave those other (mostly UK) options because a few minutes ago you were vehemently anti-Aero based on a bad blog post, lol.

hahaha I don't think I was "vehemently anti-Aero", nevertheless, I did admit that I don't understand shite about leather jackets, so it is only natural for me to change any sort of opinion until I have better understanding of where I am stepping.

Anyway, there would be a few problems if I were to change my mind now, as I already paid the upfront deposit to Greg, and the guy has been pretty awesome with me, so it'd be a heartbreak to in fact change my mind... and it would be a whole lot of work to say the least.

I don’t think you’re understanding. MTM will always be based on a firm’s existing patterns. With the older firms, these patterns are much more honed and established. Also I’m not sure how you came to the view that Field is MTM but Aero/Lewis are not.

With a new business, it’s much more of a guessing game. Aero, Lewis, etc will be MTM… but there’s much less guessing in it.

Field can theoretically do anything, but this demands a lot of knowledge from the customer.

Yes, I do understand what MTM is, I was just saying some non-sense stuff because I thought the prices I was seeing on each of those makers website was not an MTM option, but an off the rack thing, with established measurements.

Anyway, I really didn't know Aero and Lewis were MTM... Once more, I don't know nothing about leather jackets, traditional models, established brands... Honestly, I only knew there were Aero and Lewis Leather brands because they are quite common on eBay. I wish I knew about them before buying my Schott, though... It's hard being ignorant hahaha

And thank you for still being here trying to explain this stuff to me

 

[Aloysius]

Anyway, there would be a few problems if I were to change my mind now, as I already paid the upfront deposit to Greg, and the guy has been pretty awesome with me, so it'd be a heartbreak to in fact change my mind... and it would be a whole lot of work to say the least.

I’m not saying to cancel your Field order. I’m saying that you should take the time to learn what works for you leather jacket fit wise first. You won’t come up in the queue at Field for another year or so anyway.

Anyway, I really didn't know Aero and Lewis were MTM... Once more, I don't know nothing about leather jackets, traditional models, established brands... Honestly, I only knew there were Aero and Lewis Leather brands because they are quite common on eBay. I wish I knew about them before buying my Schott, though... It's hard being ignorant hahaha

Schott has excellent patterns. The problem wasn’t that it was a Schott; it was that you bought a destroyed jacket.

 

[mvilla]

I’m not saying to cancel your Field order. I’m saying that you should take the time to learn what works for you leather jacket fit wise first. You won’t come up in the queue at Field for another year or so anyway.

Yeah, the waiting will be pretty long, that's why I argued that it should be enough to learn one thing or two about this subject... I wish I could see and try some different models to get this idea, though... This talk expanded my curiosity quite a bit.

Schott has excellent patterns. The problem wasn’t that it was a Schott; it was that you bought a destroyed jacket.

I know, I meant that this double rider cross zipper style doesn't suit me, not that the pattern of the jacket is bad... Anyway, the jacket is not destroyed... Just the sleeves hem that are looking funny.

 

[Aloysius]

Yeah, the waiting will be pretty long, that's why I argued that it should be enough to learn one thing or two about this subject... I wish I could see and try some different models to get this idea, though... This talk expanded my curiosity quite a bit.

Reading TFL to learn how fit works is close to pointless.

You live in Britain, not Siberia. Leather jackets aren’t unobtanium, lol.

 

[navetsea]

It's incredible how nicely this jacket ages.

7 months of regular wear...

I reshaped the coin pocket flap using some water, that didn't happen naturally

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Some bonus pics

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nice kneading on the pocket flap

 

[navetsea]

Yeah, the waiting will be pretty long, that's why I argued that it should be enough to learn one thing or two about this subject... I wish I could see and try some different models to get this idea, though... This talk expanded my curiosity quite a bit.



I know, I meant that this double rider cross zipper style doesn't suit me, not that the pattern of the jacket is bad... Anyway, the jacket is not destroyed... Just the sleeves hem that are looking funny.

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looked like the sleeve hem had been altered to be longer by unfolding the end and finishing the edges with that leather strip to get the maximum possible sleeve length, perhaps the previous owner is thin tall guy.

 

[Canuck Panda]

That's what I thought too. The American makers give you a lot more leather. Vanson is like this too. There is at least 1.5" or more folded on the inside so the seam always clears the actual wrist and very comfortable, no irritation from the stitches.

 

[Marc mndt]

@dudewuttheheck I wanted to quote your post but somehow it's gone now.

Anyway, as you were saying:

Calling my review awful while basically subtweeting me is uncool. I stand by that review. I specifically said that the jacket did not work out for me. I also said that I have seen Aero jackets fit others well. My goal wasn't to imply all Aero jackets are bad. I made sure to temper that. All I did was share my real experiences. I wonder how that is awful in your eyes @Aloysius

The jacket fitting someone else doesn't discredit my review as I only said the pattern didn't work for me... weird for you to say that. I'm not surprised though I suppose.

I'm not sure this is the place to share my constructive criticism but I'm going to do so anyway

In your review you mention 'the quality of Shinki horsehide'. There is no such thing because Shinki is just the name of the tannery, a tannery that produces a variety of leathers that have different qualities.

For instance, the Shinki characteristics you mention are 'depth of color' and 'firm temper'. I can show you Shinki leathers that have 0 color depth and no firm temper.

You also mentioned that the Aero jacket falls way behind any Japanese leather jacket in terms of construction quality. It depends on how you define construction quality, but in terms of stitching neatness I've seen jackets from different Japanese makers that were much sloppier stitched than the Aero you reviewed.

Freewheelers jackets aren't perfect either. Here's the French seam on a FW jacket you owned yourself.

You also mentioned 'the beauty of freewheeler patterns'. Not every jacket pattern is suited for every body type which was perfectly exemplified by your Aero A-1 which didn't look good on you yet it looks absolutely great on one of our fellow loungers. You acknowledged that yourself in your review. But next you talk about the beauty of Freewheeler patterns even though the same holds for those. For example, this FW Speedmaster with extremely high armholes, wide shoulder and narrow chest doesn't look good on me nor does it look good on the guy that modelled the jacket for them.

After reading your review on the Aero A-1 the uninformed reader might get the idea that Shinki leather has certain qualities, Japanese jackets have better construction quality than Aero's and that FW patterns are the best in any case, which is simply not true.

 

[mvilla]

looked like the sleeve hem had been altered to be longer by unfolding the end and finishing the edges with that leather strip to get the maximum possible sleeve length, perhaps the previous owner is thin tall guy.

That's what I thought too. The American makers give you a lot more leather. Vanson is like this too. There is at least 1.5" or more folded on the inside so the seam always clears the actual wrist and very comfortable, no irritation from the stitches.

It was the opposite, actually... The sleeves were cut and shortened. I unfolded it and extended them. Their length now is ok, but it is still shorter than original.

 

[mvilla]

Well, as I only have this one as a benchmark, would you guys mind giving feedback on what works and what doesn't, just so I can start making my notes? (Sorry for the potato quality pictures).