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First post - looking for advice for a "do it all" jacket (Aero Premier Highwayman - Belmondo style)

Herresbach

Familiar Face
Messages
58
Location
Germany
Thanks for your input guys, I‘m about to order.

I‘ll be going for:
- Sheene
- Seal Goat
- August Collar
- no kidney panel
- shoulder gussets
- highwayman yoke
- Nickel zippers looped ball chain
- Olive green lining
- Olive green contrast stitching
- two inside pockets in the facing (probably without stud or zippers)


are there any last things I should consider/reconsider?
I’m wondering if seal goat looks much different from brown fqhh since I don‘t want the Sheene to be too similar to my brown fqhh CR.
Otherwise I feel quite set that this jacket will be a nice „do it all“ configuration.

Thanks in advance!
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,573
Location
Australia
Thanks for your input guys, I‘m about to order.

I‘ll be going for:
- Sheene
- Seal Goat
- August Collar
- no kidney panel
- shoulder gussets
- highwayman yoke
- Nickel zippers looped ball chain
- Olive green lining
- Olive green contrast stitching
- two inside pockets in the facing (probably without stud or zippers)


are there any last things I should consider/reconsider?
I’m wondering if seal goat looks much different from brown fqhh since I don‘t want the Sheene to be too similar to my brown fqhh CR.
Otherwise I feel quite set that this jacket will be a nice „do it all“ configuration.

Thanks in advance!

That's great and then once you have it you can work out the jacket with the specs you really want. :D That's how it seems to work.
 

Mr Knight

Familiar Face
Messages
80
Go for olive drill lining if you want a plain interior. I know there’s the option of sateen and it’s all down to personal preference. If you want a smooth ‘silk’ lining then go with sateen as I’m under the impression there’s little (if any) difference in durability.

The Sheene is a very nice looking jacket and should fit you fine, I’ve seen several people go from regular/premier highwayman to a Sheene and swear by it.
 

Mr Knight

Familiar Face
Messages
80
Olive drill in the body and olive sateen in the sleeves, it worked well for my cordovan bootlegger.
Good choice, this has been recommended to me by Denny on both jackets that’s I’ve had from Aero however I went for full drill and didn’t find it an issue as I don’t wear long sleeve shirts often.
 

Herresbach

Familiar Face
Messages
58
Location
Germany
Good choice, this has been recommended to me by Denny on both jackets that’s I’ve had from Aero however I went for full drill and didn’t find it an issue as I don’t wear long sleeve shirts often.

I didn‘t really get that part.
Why is going for full drill not an issue when you‘re not wearing long sleeve shirts often? the double negative is probably too much for a non native speaker ;)
does that mean that full drill is better when you‘re wearing t-shirts or short sleeved henleys and sateen is better with shirts or pullovers?
 

Mr Knight

Familiar Face
Messages
80
I didn‘t really get that part.
Why is going for full drill not an issue when you‘re not wearing long sleeve shirts often? the double negative is probably too much for a non native speaker ;)
does that mean that full drill is better when you‘re wearing t-shirts or short sleeved henleys and sateen is better with shirts or pullovers?

Good choice, this has been recommended to me by Denny on both jackets that’s I’ve had from Aero however I went for full drill and didn’t find it an issue as I wear short sleeve shirts often.

;)
 

dubpynchon

One Too Many
Messages
1,035
Location
Ireland
I didn‘t really get that part.
Why is going for full drill not an issue when you‘re not wearing long sleeve shirts often? the double negative is probably too much for a non native speaker ;)
does that mean that full drill is better when you‘re wearing t-shirts or short sleeved henleys and sateen is better with shirts or pullovers?
Drill can catch on shirt sleeves, although it’s not so much of a problem as you can grip the sleeve end as you’re putting your arm through. Sateen is smooth so it doesn’t grip.
Drill is more resilient so it’ll last longer than sateen, but unless you plan for this to be your one and only jacket it’ll take forever to wear out, and if you did plan for this you should quit this forum and never come back. Before it’s too late!
 

Herresbach

Familiar Face
Messages
58
Location
Germany
I‘ll go for sateen in the sleeves then.
My CR has drill lining in the sleeves but wearing the CR collar with a short looks at least unusual in my opinion so I never really had the „issue“ with longsleeve shirts.


Are the shoulder gussets any good or are they just for aesthetics? I read both in other threads.
Since the jacket is going to be my go to jacket, an increase in mobility might be useful but on the other hand the jacket should look clean enough to wear it with a nice shirt.
I know there is no one does it all but I‘m trying to make it most versatile.
 

Herresbach

Familiar Face
Messages
58
Location
Germany
just wanted to keep you guys posted:

I didn‘t go for the sheene.
Spent ages creating „the perfect jacket“ but then I had to focus on my studies so I lost sight of it.

a week ago I found a Lewis Corsair in black cowhide in the bay that really looks like the old Luftwaffe jackets and has nearly the same measures as my custom Aero CR.
Until this moment I didn‘t know I „needed“ a short black Luftwaffe styled jacket that looks a little cleaner/minimal than those fabulous Eastmans.
I really like the light weight (compared to FQHH) and the overall quality of the jacket. The jacket does look damn cool but I feel like I could dress it up by wearing chinos und a shirt with it. The only thing I will have to get used to is wearing a rather short jacket, the Corsair is 25“ long while I‘m 6‘2, so it ends just above my belt buckle. But from what I‘vd seen on the internet and on old picturs of pilots thats how the jacket is supposed to fit. However, just another reason to buy some nice belt buckles.

So I think I finally found my „do it all“ jacket the moment I wasn‘t looking for it.
Thanks for all your advice!
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,017
Location
Europe
I'll attach myself here so I don't have to open a new thread.

I may have to switch from my planned halfbelt to another model because my desired dimensions may not be feasible.
Now I am considering the PHWM and thus of course the dimensions.
How big is the front drop with a PHWM? Is there even a noteworthy?

CXL or Badalassi for this style of jacket?

Hookless zip or better not and take the universal?
 

Tom71

One Too Many
Messages
1,760
Location
Europe
I'll attach myself here so I don't have to open a new thread.

I may have to switch from my planned halfbelt to another model because my desired dimensions may not be feasible.
Now I am considering the PHWM and thus of course the dimensions.
How big is the front drop with a PHWM? Is there even a noteworthy?

CXL or Badalassi for this style of jacket?

Hookless zip or better not and take the universal?

Good choice. Will look awesome on your frame!

Front dop is negligable. I´d say, half an inch max (1-1,5cm).

I have CXL, and it works just fine. Badalassi seems like a natural choice too, but a bit depending on the look you want to achieve in the long run.
If you´re ok with super-rugged (as in your old Cafe Racer) CXL is great. I haven´t seen Badalassi really, really broken in, but I would assume it will still look pretty uniform, but with lots of molding to your body shape. Perhaps a bit too much for my personal taste, but that´s subjective.

Don´t do Hooklees, please. The (Premier) HWM has a thick leather-welt to overcome at the waist, and, that´s just to much strain on the zipper, the way Aero places the zipper tape.
I´ve had three zipper replacements on my Premier HWM (one by Aero themselves) before I gave in and settled for a standard zipper.

Universal/YKK are reliable (as in: never had an issue so far) and look very good too, IMO:
 

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