First post - looking for advice for a "do it all" jacket (Aero Premier Highwayman - Belmondo style)

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Herresbach, Dec 29, 2019.

  1. Herresbach

    Herresbach New in Town

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Germany
    Hi leather addicts,

    longtime lurker, first time poster. I actually signed up for this post.
    Since you don't know me, I'd like to introduce myself. I'm a German in my mitt tweenties who got into leather jackets at about three years ago and spent ages on this website reading posts about jacket styles, leather types and colour choices.
    Right now, I own a brown FQHH Cafe Racer from Aero, a black 'Raid' by Vanson made from their Competitionweight cowhide, a black buffalo calf Cafe Racer made by Safak in Cologne and an old black Bavarian police jacket which I use as pub jacket. I used to have a vintage 118 Perfecto which I really disliked. Aero Leather seems to be the brand of my choice.

    Back to business:
    Gentlemen, I'm desperatly looking for your advice.
    I'm afraid 'need' a new jacket. As much as I love my brown FQHH cafe racer, the jacket is not suitable for everyday wear. At least it doesn't fit my daily routine. It's too stiff and bulky for the gym locker and has no pockets. I think you all know the problem, there is always a reason for a new jacket.

    So what am I looking for?
    I'm looking for a jacket that is lighter than FQHH, has pockets, that can take a beating, is suitable for every day wear (501 levis, t-shirt or henley) but it also able to be dressed up with a chino and a nice business shirt. i want to wear it most time of the year so it needs enough space to layer with a sweater but it should also look fiine with just a t-shirt underneath. I think a premier highwayman might fit the bill even though I now there I not the one jacket and I'll always find a good reason to buy another jacket.

    I desperatly need your opinion on colour and leather choices!

    Colour:
    Black is a no go. I like black jackets but I've got too many. I'd like the jacket to be some kind of "brownish". In doubt I'd always go rather dark . My dark brown FQHH is a stunner but going for brown FQHH again would make the purchase of another jacket pointless and boring.
    Colour options for the Premier Highwayman I'd like are russet brown (goat), cordovan italian (HH), medium russet jerky (HH medium), midweight seal (HH medium) or dark seal vincenza (HH).
    Since I want to be able to wear the jacket as much as often, is there one most versatile colour?

    This leads to the actual problem!
    Leather choices:
    I know there is not 'the leather' but since I want the jacket to be suitable for everyday wear I'm looking for a sturdy leather that is remarkably lighter than FQHH. A nice patina development would be nice but I don't want to have to baby the jacket!
    I read about the differences of goat, vincenza and jerky horsehide but getting first hand information would be highly appreciated.

    I actually found a jacket that is pretty much what I'm looking for, the one "do it all jacket" tha looks nice with a white shirt and a tie but is also suitable for the pub. It's worn by Jean-Paul Belondo in "Peur sur la ville" (1975). My only concerns are that I'm 11cm taller than Belmondo (I'm 6'2, rather lean athletic) so that the premier highwayman might not suit my body as well.

    And finally, yes, of course I already contacted Aero and asked for their opinion but I'd be very grateful to get an opinion from other leather maniacs.

    While this post got a little out of hand I hope you guys had a merry christmas and I'm looking forward to get in contact with you!
     

    Attached Files:

    Peter Bowden and dubpynchon like this.
  2. zebedee

    zebedee One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,351
    Location:
    Bristol, UK
    If buttons are your thing, get an Aero Maxwell in cordovan mid-weight HH. If you're not a buttons guy, a cordovan Plainsman or Long Half Belt. Battered Seal is also an excellent brown.
     
  3. Herresbach

    Herresbach New in Town

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Germany
    Not the button guy. The Plainsman is a nice jacket, I just can‘t stand half belt style jackets. I like one piece backs and clean styles. IMHO are jackets that are distinctly longer than the belt line rather for older gentlemen than me beeing in my twenties
     
  4. Tom71

    Tom71 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    260
    Location:
    Europe
    Hey there and welcome! Have you had a look at the Lewis Leather Dominator? Their horse doesn’t get that much love here, but I am rather fond of it. Pretty lightweight (as compared to Horweens CXL choices) and develops quite nicely too.
     
    Herresbach likes this.
  5. Mich486

    Mich486 One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,071
    I’d give a thought also to the Simmons Bilt Roadster. Sort of a more fitted Highwayman.

    I agree with you that half-belt jackets give off a certain retro vibe even if they are otherwise very conservative. I’m a bit older than you but I struggle to feel comfortable in them, like they add 20 years to my age.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    ton312 likes this.
  6. dubpynchon

    dubpynchon Practically Family

    Messages:
    753
    Location:
    Ireland
    I'm not a big fan of vicenza myself, I much prefer CXL. I'd ask Aero for the lightest CXL horsehide they have, my Highwayman in CXL horse is light and very durable. Maybe a 50s half belt in cordovan? The Aero Seven looks good as well, it's not on their website but it's their cafe racer with a standard collar.
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2019
    Herresbach likes this.
  7. Herresbach

    Herresbach New in Town

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Germany
    I actually looked at the Domitor a lot and even found one at the bay that would have been my size. but the jacket was black und they are a bit too shiny for my taste. personal preference, I guess. however, I’ve got a lewis mudlarker which i like a lot
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2019
  8. Herresbach

    Herresbach New in Town

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Germany

    thanks, I will take a look at simmons bilt
     
  9. Herresbach

    Herresbach New in Town

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Germany
    Is there a reason you would choose „lightweight“ FQHH over e.g. medium jerky HH or goat?
    Thought of a Sheene/Seven but I think my Cafe Racer jacket would become jealous if got her a sister that is basically the same style
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2019
  10. ai00344

    ai00344 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Canada
    You mentioned the gym in your post above. If your broad shouldered the premier hwy is likely not for you (see Tons experience with his midnight blue beauty). I would recommend the Sheene if you like the fit of your cafe racer or better yet the Hwy man inspired Sheene technovox made famous a while back
     
    El Marro likes this.
  11. Herresbach

    Herresbach New in Town

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Germany

    I‘m 6‘2 and athletic 86kg so I‘m far away from being a tank but you might be right that the CR style might suit me better, love mine. found a thread where the hwm, the CR and the sheene are compared, you also commented on it. very useful information, thanks!
    looking at the picture I’m comvinced the classic hwm is definitely no option for me, too boxy

    https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/aero-highwayman-vs-sheene-vs-cafe-racer.95565/
     
  12. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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  13. Herresbach

    Herresbach New in Town

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Germany
    Choosing between Sheene and Premier Highwayman I‘ll probably ask Holly. I feel quite set on this topic.

    What really bothers me is leather choice. Even though I like FQHH a lot I‘m looking for something lighter but also durable
     
  14. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,789
    Location:
    SoCal
    Get samples...
    Get lots of samples!

    Ask for other hides too. Like Alaskan steer, tumbled HH, or Badalassi.
     
    sweetfights likes this.
  15. Herresbach

    Herresbach New in Town

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    17
    Location:
    Germany
    Guppy and handymike like this.
  16. Bfd70

    Bfd70 One Too Many

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    Location:
    Chicago
    Eastman Californian
     
  17. ai00344

    ai00344 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Canada
  18. ton312

    ton312 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Chicago
    Agreed. I’m a bit older than you (actually a lot I think) and I just can’t wear an HB or HWM without feeling 60. Just like an A-2. The fountain of old.
     
    FlatCap99, JacketAddict, Mil and 4 others like this.
  19. ton312

    ton312 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    9,916
    Location:
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    PHWM adds 25 lbs to your gut. I think the standard HWM is a better choice.
     
    Psant25 likes this.
  20. Monitor

    Monitor

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