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Looking for recommendations for bomber/moto racer mash

Himitsu

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25
So I got my measurement, at least some of them taken by someone by following this video:

Upper Chest = 18"
Chest = 41"
Waist = 41" 1/2
Biceps = 11" 1/4
Shoulders = 19"
Sleeve Length = 24" 1/4
Back Length = 21" to belt / 26" for added 5"
Hips = 41" 3/4
Forearm = 10" 3/4
Bare neck = 15" 1/2
Sleeve inseam = 19"
Front length = 19"
Bare wrist = 6" 1/2

I do realize they are another company/business but it was fairly well explained for someone not too savy on that kind of stuff. But now checking the custom jacket measuring form from Vanson, it seems a little confusing some other measurements.

I don't have the tool they're mentioning (unsure if they even sell it or whatever), would you have any recommendations on how to go about this?
 

Aloysius

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For the tool, they have instructions for how to make one at home on the site. But I don’t think you necessarily need to do that.

The jacket you linked is super slim and I have no experience with it but from what I saw you’d want to go up to a 44, at least, and that might make the other parts too long.

I think a Model B in 42 should fit you.
 

MrProper

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So I got my measurement, at least some of them taken by someone by following this video:

Upper Chest = 18"
Chest = 41"
Waist = 41" 1/2
Biceps = 11" 1/4
Shoulders = 19"
Sleeve Length = 24" 1/4
Back Length = 21" to belt / 26" for added 5"
Hips = 41" 3/4
Forearm = 10" 3/4
Bare neck = 15" 1/2
Sleeve inseam = 19"
Front length = 19"
Bare wrist = 6" 1/2

I do realize they are another company/business but it was fairly well explained for someone not too savy on that kind of stuff. But now checking the custom jacket measuring form from Vanson, it seems a little confusing some other measurements.

I don't have the tool they're mentioning (unsure if they even sell it or whatever), would you have any recommendations on how to go about this?
Do you have a jacket (whether leather or fabric) that fits you the way you want it to?
Then take the measurements to get a feel for it.
Then you can see how the measurements differ. At some point I found my jacket measurements, which I can use as an excellent guide. Depending on the style, you can then deviate from it.
I think it's easier to work with jacket measurements than with body measurements, especially when it comes to length.
 

Himitsu

New in Town
Messages
25
Sadly the last jacket I ever owned was the one I had to throw out (PU leather jacket in the picture).
I currently only have two wool coats, one that reaches down a bit farther than the half point between belt and knees and another that it fairly big for winter.

I have not been able to button up the first one because of how old it is (literally have had this for at 15-20 years I think) and because some buttons are missing. Second one I probably bought a size bigger than I should of when but it's not too bad since I can layer underneath for winter. So I'm not sure they would really be great example for fit but I certainly can measure them for comparison, can't hurt

I went to a place where they do custom suits, etc today to go through the Vanson custom form, there's not much tailors around here. I also noticed Vanson has a video on how to do the custom measure and will have my partner take measurements again following that instead.

I'll post again once I know everything.

So the City jacket is slimmer than the model B? My body type would probably be more on the triangle/pear or oval shape, I have a bit of weight around the mid-sections/belly in the waist.
 

Aloysius

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3,584
Sadly the last jacket I ever owned was the one I had to throw out (PU leather jacket in the picture).
I currently only have two wool coats, one that reaches down a bit farther than the half point between belt and knees and another that it fairly big for winter.

I have not been able to button up the first one because of how old it is (literally have had this for at 15-20 years I think) and because some buttons are missing. Second one I probably bought a size bigger than I should of when but it's not too bad since I can layer underneath for winter. So I'm not sure they would really be great example for fit but I certainly can measure them for comparison, can't hurt

I went to a place where they do custom suits, etc today to go through the Vanson custom form, there's not much tailors around here. I also noticed Vanson has a video on how to do the custom measure and will have my partner take measurements again following that instead.

I'll post again once I know everything.

So the City jacket is slimmer than the model B? My body type would probably be more on the triangle/pear or oval shape, I have a bit of weight around the mid-sections/belly in the waist.

Honestly I wouldn’t risk buying the City jacket after reading about its fit, unless I was at Vanson and could try it in person.

Model B on the other hand should fit you nicely and look flattering even if you’re carrying extra weight.

Another option I’d suggest that would likely fit your budget and will have what you need is Johnson Leathers in San Francisco. Their new website is under construction so you have to look here or on Instagram to see their work, but seeing as what you’re after is a nice cafe racer with hand pockets, I can just about guarantee they have something in stock that’ll work. You can call them, give your measurements, and they can tell you which jackets they have that’ll work.
 

Himitsu

New in Town
Messages
25
Yeah as much as I love the look on the City jacket, Model B might be a safer bet I suppose. I really like the 2 zippers for the front, very neat concept.

Is there any way to know how much tighter it would be compared to Model B? Maybe I could call the Vanson help line again.
 
Last edited:

Himitsu

New in Town
Messages
25
There's also the fact that, at least from the pictures, the shape of the shoulders look more pointy on the Model B vs the City. But wow 4.5" is a considerable difference.

Not really a big fan of stripes, lines, logos, or anything along those lines. I prefer going towards more minimalistic in general vs something that's too loud so to speak.
 

Aloysius

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The shoulders on the Model B are very natural.

Yeah, I don’t really expect the city to fit most normal people.
 

Himitsu

New in Town
Messages
25
Hmm that's good. I found a site called Bison trading which seems like it's based in Canada. They carry some popular brands.

How is Schott for fit & quality in general? Is it better than Vanson?

There's a few that look good but are more expensive though relatively close:
 

Aloysius

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Hmm that's good. I found a site called Bison trading which seems like it's based in Canada. They carry some popular brands.

How is Schott for fit & quality in general? Is it better than Vanson?

There's a few that look good but are more expensive though relatively close:
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These are great jackets but past your budget so I didn't suggest them.

Do you want a stiffer or drapier leather?
 

Himitsu

New in Town
Messages
25
I would probably prefer less stiff since I'm not a biker at all and I don't really have plans for that in the near future.
More for a good balance of durability and look. Whatever I get, I'm sure it would be miles better than my old one lol.

And regarding the budget, it's 'only' 150-200 more, at this point I'm just thinking, why not go the little bit of extra mile for more quality? I think an amount I will absolutely not go to is like 1400~1500+ and up (in $CA).
 

Aloysius

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3,584
I would probably prefer less stiff since I'm not a biker at all and I don't really have plans for that in the near future.
More for a good balance of durability and look. Whatever I get, I'm sure it would be miles better than my old one lol.

And regarding the budget, it's 'only' 150-200 more, at this point I'm just thinking, why not go the little bit of extra mile for more quality? I think an amount I will absolutely not go to is like 1400~1500+ and up (in $CA).

I would say the quality is comparable, rather than superior, but if the jacket is a better fit for what you're looking for then it may be superior in that sense.

If you don't want it stiff, instead of these you would be well served by the 141. Same fit as the 641, however it is in a soft yet very durable cowhide. It has a zip-out fleece lining like the Model B. The 42 ought to fit you at your current waist, and if/when you drop you can cinch it with the waist adjuster.
 

Himitsu

New in Town
Messages
25
Other than the pricing, what's the difference(s) between the 641 and the 654?

The 654 looks glossier than the 641, is that a bad or good thing overall?

Also, I'm guessing the lining is removable on both of these? I'm not opposed to the fleece lining on the 641 but I would hope it doesn't make static.
 

Aloysius

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3,584
The 654 only comes in alpha sizing and you’d be between sizes on it.

Glossy vs matte isn’t a quality indicator. The 641 has a stiff leather with shiny top coat whereas the 141 is a soft matte leather.

The fleece liner is removable.
 

Himitsu

New in Town
Messages
25
It does get a bit confusing with all the terms lol.

Top coat, naked, waxed, etc, seems like there's a lot of different ones out there.
 

Aloysius

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It does get a bit confusing with all the terms lol.

Top coat, naked, waxed, etc, seems like there's a lot of different ones out there.

That's why none of us are making recommendations based on technical terms, haha.

Soft from the get-go or stiff that needs to break in soft is the question.
 

Aloysius

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That's fair enough lol.

Is there one that's better than the other for durability wise?

Both should be comparable for durability for plain wear so it’s down to what you like better.

The one you need to break in is shiny. The one that’s already soft is matte.
 

Himitsu

New in Town
Messages
25
Ok, that's good to know also.

Is this a general rule of thumb I can apply to most jackets?
Shiny = Need to break in
Soft = Matte
 

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