Fitting matters

[Matt Deckard]

In the 1930's men walked into stores where salesmen were putting clothes on patrons whom may not have known anything about fit or what the designer had in mind. Sleeve lengths shoulder proportions waist heights chest measurements, shirt collars. Salesmen knew how to measure and they knew how the clothes were supposed to look and they put them on the customers the way the designers expected them to be worn.

You walk into a store today and the salesman doesn't know how a suit should fit because he doesn't know proportion and rarely wears a suit. The designers showcase the clothes on toothpick models wearing the clothes too tight and the salesman not knowing how to make the man feel comfortable in the suit sells it 2 sizes too big. Shirts end up looking bad and jackets out of scale and trousers too low and the customer not knowing what makes a suit looks good walks out wearing an ill fitting ensemble thinking "well I'm wearing a suit and I guess I'm doing my part when I wear it to formal gatherings.

Suits look like they are wearing the wearer rather than the other way around; Just a thought. People would look better in their clothes if they just had on the right sizes. Yes fits are bad right now, though sizing and knowledge on what fits your body shape used to be common sense. With a generation raised in jeans and t-shirts the concept of fit is lost.

pretty good guide on the Sierra trading post website.
http://www.sierratradingpost.com/lp2/mens-guide.html#suit_fit

 

[aliados]

Touch?©! About ten years ago, I went shopping with my then-teenaged son to get him a suit. Amazingly, the salesman declared every one he tried on to be a perfect fit, and pooh-poohed every objection I raised (pull [opening the vent], ill-fitting collar [1/2" away form the shirt, or causing a ridge to fold across the back], etc.) with some comment to the effect that "everyone wears them like that today."

Sadly, his statements might have been true, but nonetheless we immediately left the store, telling my son, "Maybe everybody does dress like that -- but I'm one of those who prefers his clothes to fit properly!"

 

[Zig2k143]

Thanks Matt that was a great web page and I fully agree although I must say I know nothing about fitting into a suit. Well I know more now that I read that site.

 

[thunderw21]

I had a bad experience with a salesman once. It was about 6-7 years ago when you could buy a double breasted off the rack (unlike today). The salesman had me try on a 42R jacket (today I can comfortably wear a 38-40 and I was even skinnier back then). He viewed his creation and saw that it was good (at least in his eyes). So I got a DB suit that hung like a bag, no shape whatsoever. This happened long before I knew anything about shape and other mysteries of the suit. It's a nice jacket, it could just use some tailoring. A lot of tailoring, actually.

 

[Marty M.]

Three Cheers For Matt!

Matt what you said is so true. I've been a retailer for a very long time. And I'm appalled at what I've seen from other retailers lately. I was in a Department store a while ago. While walking by the suit department (that I managed years earlier) I noticed a salesman with a measureing tape draped very loosley around a customers upper body while the customer had his suit coat on. I have no idea what he was doing. :rage: I almost went over to measure the customer personally. I bet if you walked into a shoe department and asked the the difference between a Balmoral and a Blutcher they would have no idea. And these stores wonder why their sales are slumping or that they can't maintain a regular price business.
I won't be that store that has an ad featuring a 98lb male model with sparse patches of fur on his face. And of course oiley hair. Who are these models? And who do they represent? Not me or my store. I'm tired of bad service from some retailers. It gives us other blokes that are trying to give good service a bad black eye.
My appologies for my rantings.
Marty Mathis

 

[Dr Doran]

Good information, Matt. A question, though: my neck gains a full inch when flexed, from 16 to 17; my chest an inch and a half, from 42 to 43.5. I assume that I should measure the flaccid (if you'll pardon the expression), not flexed, measurements. But then I won't be able to tense my muscles ... doesn't sound to comfortable. I generally wear a 43 and a 17, but the 17 usually translates to a too-loose shirt.

 

[jamespowers]

I dunno:

Dress it down by wearing it with khakis or even jeans. Match your blazer or sport coat with a sport shirt or polo shirt for a casual look that goes to lunch or an informal meeting.

I might do the polo shirt but never the jeans with a sport jacket or blazer. Looks to Kato Kalin to me. :eusa_doh: [huh]

 

[Matt Deckard]

Good information, Matt. A question, though: my neck gains a full inch when flexed, from 16 to 17; my chest an inch and a half, from 42 to 43.5. I assume that I should measure the flaccid (if you'll pardon the expression), not flexed, measurements. But then I won't be able to tense my muscles ... doesn't sound to comfortable. I generally wear a 43 and a 17, but the 17 usually translates to a too-loose shirt.

Spandex, everything spandex.


I think error on the larger side is better for you. Arnold, from what I see, is very tailored in his wears and when he is in off the rack it is obvious from the drape.

for shirts there are companies out there with fuller fits and it's a trial and error situation.

 

[Dr Doran]

Spandex, everything spandex.


I think error on the larger side is better for you. Arnold, from what I see, is very tailored in his wears and when he is in off the rack it is obvious from the drape.

for shirts there are companies out there with fuller fits and it's a trial and error situation.

Ah. SO NO EASY ANSWERS IN THIS WORLD. [turns face away from audience; sobs in beer. FADE OUT.]

 

[Jovan]

To avoid bulging pockets, simply don’t open them (most suits will come with their pockets sewn shut).

I can't agree with that. I must be able to use my pockets!

Quick Tip: When having your pleated pants hemmed, you’ll want the hems to be cuffed. Flat front pants should have un-cuffed hems.

Not always true.

I really like the guide otherwise. *thumbs up emoticon goes here*

 

[Riposte3]

Touch?©! About ten years ago, I went shopping with my then-teenaged son to get him a suit. Amazingly, the salesman declared every one he tried on to be a perfect fit, and pooh-poohed every objection I raised (pull [opening the vent], ill-fitting collar [1/2" away form the shirt, or causing a ridge to fold across the back], etc.) with some comment to the effect that "everyone wears them like that today."

Sadly, his statements might have been true, but nonetheless we immediately left the store, telling my son, "Maybe everybody does dress like that -- but I'm one of those who prefers his clothes to fit properly!"

Sadly, this is all too common nowadays. It's usually because of one of three things:
1. The salesman doesn't know any better.
2. He knows better, but just wants the sale, so he tries to convince you that everything fits great even if it doesn't.
3. Everything in the store is made to fit that poorly, the one you're trying is the best fit he has, and he really wants the sale.

This problem is compounded by:
1. Most people buying suits don't know any better, and
2. Many that do know better don't assert themselves, or they have given up because nearly every suit available these days has the same problems.

-Jake

 

[jamespowers]

Sadly, this is all too common nowadays. It's usually because of one of three things:
1. The salesman doesn't know any better.
2. He knows better, but just wants the sale, so he tries to convince you that everything fits great even if it doesn't.
3. Everything in the store is made to fit that poorly, the one you're trying is the best fit he has, and he really wants the sale.

This problem is compounded by:
1. Most people buying suits don't know any better, and
2. Many that do know better don't assert themselves, or they have given up because nearly every suit available these days has the same problems.

-Jake

Your description reminds me of the Grace Brothers in Are you Being Served.
"Do you think the arms are too long on this coat?"
"Don't worry sir. They'll ride up with wear."
:eusa_doh:

 

[Zig2k143]

Your description reminds me of the Grace Brothers in Are you Being Served.
"Do you think the arms are too long on this coat?"
"Don't worry sir. They'll ride up with wear."
:eusa_doh:

Great Series.

 

[Tomasso]

Though it's more likely today, you could certainly be poorly fitted in the Golden Era. The garment quality and sevice (fitting/tailoring) varied from Cheap Charlies up the department store ladder to the elite haberdashers.

 

[mister7]

I would like to relate a positive sales experience. If any loungers happened to be shopping in Albuquerque, I would highly recommend a fellow I encountered at the Dillard's here. His first name is John and he sold me the only suit I've ever bought new. He spent a considerable amount of time and trouble fitting me and discouraged me from buying it too large, which was my natural preference. I can really relate to the comments Doran posted in terms of fitting a little too well, for me the answer seems to be different sizes for different activities. My Dillards suit (Hart Schaffner & Marx) is a 39L, which I must admit, before I bought it I was not aware was even an available size. It looks great but is my "posing" size. I wouldn't want to have run across a busy street in it walking to work, for instance. But for standing around at a wedding or somesuch affair it is very nice. When I want to wear a suit to work I would much rather wear one of my baggier (40L) sets of clothing. For one thing, I walk a couple of miles back and forth, so comfort is important. Also, I work at a library, which entails more physical work than many people would suppose. Having a little room to move makes me a lot more comfortable, and the bottom line is I'm still very nicely dressed compared to almost anyone I will encounter during the day.

MS

 

[Rooster]

I would like to relate a positive sales experience. If any loungers happened to be shopping in Albuquerque, I would highly recommend a fellow I encountered at the Dillard's here. His first name is John and he sold me the only suit I've ever bought new. He spent a considerable amount of time and trouble fitting me and discouraged me from buying it too large, which was my natural preference. I can really relate to the comments Doran posted in terms of fitting a little too well, for me the answer seems to be different sizes for different activities. My Dillards suit (Hart Schaffner & Marx) is a 39L, which I must admit, before I bought it I was not aware was even an available size. It looks great but is my "posing" size. I wouldn't want to have run across a busy street in it walking to work, for instance. But for standing around at a wedding or somesuch affair it is very nice. When I want to wear a suit to work I would much rather wear one of my baggier (40L) sets of clothing. For one thing, I walk a couple of miles back and forth, so comfort is important. Also, I work at a library, which entails more physical work than many people would suppose. Having a little room to move makes me a lot more comfortable, and the bottom line is I'm still very nicely dressed compared to almost anyone I will encounter during the day.

MS

My assumptions about suits and their fit were the same as yours before I let these loungers educate me on the joys of vintage suits. I can do just about anything I want to in a properly fitted vintage suit. Vintage has completly ruined me as far as modern suits go. I agree with you, when wearing a modern suit you're limited to standing or sitting....even sitting is pushing the limits of todays current suits. In a modern suit I can't even drive comfortably, my sleves creep almost to my elbows when I hold the steering wheel......it's all in the arm holes man! (Thanks M. Deckard!)
I recommend you start looking towards vintage, something in the 40's will surprise you. Far better fit and quality.
I'm going to try Indy Magnoli for my next "Modern" suit. It will be new made, but hopefully have the vintage fit.

 

[ilcatex]

Hats off to Matt!

Matt - I've learned a lot by reading your posts. And you are right again. It is a rarity when a salesman has even the remotest clue as to the fit I am looking for (proper).

But, I'm paying... so I get what I want anyway

 

[Dr Doran]

Matt - I've learned a lot by reading your posts.

I second the motion. Matt, you da bomb. I am not sure if I would have thought about arm holes more than peripherally if not for your grave concerns and sober reasoning.

 

[Undertow]

I wouldn't purchase a suit from any establishment that didn't require its suit salesmen to also don a proper suit. I think in most cases, that rule fits for just about any purchase.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I second the motion. Matt, you da bomb. I am not sure if I would have thought about arm holes more than peripherally if not for your grave concerns and sober reasoning.

Thanks guys that means a lot.

I just post what I see and notice some people don't see. Stay stylish!