Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Footwear to go with our jackets

BloodEagle

Practically Family
Messages
584
Location
UK
Just got these Trickers Bourton in Acorn Antique - I'm more of a shoe guy than a boots guy, and I've been stalking these shoes for some time. Will they actually go with any of my leathers jackets? Time will tell!
PXL_20210923_104315760.jpg
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
26,263
Location
London, UK
^^^Second that. Bourtons are like swiss army knives. They can literally go with just about everything.

Can't knock a good pair of brogues. I've always loved them. Comfier than any sneaker, wearable with denim, leather, tweed or worsted... I have long had good experience with this style from a number of brands, including Barker and Grenson. I am minded to pick up some Trickers next; for my money, they're better than Church's. Broguing is also great for obscuring the odd scuff that would be so much more obvious on a plain shoe.

In other news that ties jackets directly to boots, while many of us were rocked by the news last year that Chippewa were supposedly moving away from producing their classic 11" engineers, Schott have recently announced a move into the boot market with both a shorter workboot (in style not unlike the Aero Jarrow Marcher or the RW Blacksmith) and a 10" engineer boot. The Engineer boot is in the just under USD300 range. A good spot for something relatively affordable which could still be very decent. Certainly looks nice, though as ever with this style of boot I'd want to try before I buy.

https://www.schottnyc.com/products/10-engineer-boot.htm
 
Messages
17,466
In other news that ties jackets directly to boots, while many of us were rocked by the news last year that Chippewa were supposedly moving away from producing their classic 11" engineers, Schott have recently announced a move into the boot market with both a shorter workboot (in style not unlike the Aero Jarrow Marcher or the RW Blacksmith) and a 10" engineer boot. The Engineer boot is in the just under USD300 range. A good spot for something relatively affordable which could still be very decent. Certainly looks nice, though as ever with this style of boot I'd want to try before I buy.

https://www.schottnyc.com/products/10-engineer-boot.htm

Huh, not a fan of these. To me, shape of the boot is everything and these appear so basic that they literally look like Wellingtons. But it's hard with Engineer boots in general as they're rather dull looking boots, are you to remove all the straps and buckles, and it was this realization made me give up on them (almost) entirely - Almost because, $300 is still a lot if it ain't paying for nothing you actually want out of your boot so I'm stuck with either dishing out $3000 or whatever for Clinch or never wearing a pair again. Clinch guy gets the dull part & he shaped his boot to perfection, while even RMC at the same price point, makes a leather Wellie. Wesco makes a nice Engineer too, though.
But that's just my opinion on the matter. A lot of people like these in general so all good. :D

Speaking of, Dsquared2 recently released a surprisingly good looking Engineer boot! It's got a stupid zipper which is a huge negative in my book but on the other hand, it's made in calf so I don't expect it to be an instrument of torture like those heavy-*** HH boots.
Then again, it's a thousand euros so perhaps it'd be best to invest into something else but either way, if I had many money, I'd probably buy these.

17342579_35760887_1000.jpg

015_d99babd7-0945-458d-80a8-fcff7fbf888c.JPG
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
26,263
Location
London, UK
Huh, not a fan of these. To me, shape of the boot is everything and these appear so basic that they literally look like Wellingtons. But it's hard with Engineer boots in general as they're rather dull looking boots, are you to remove all the straps and buckles, and it was this realization made me give up on them (almost) entirely - Almost because, $300 is still a lot if it ain't paying for nothing you actually want out of your boot so I'm stuck with either dishing out $3000 or whatever for Clinch or never wearing a pair again. Clinch guy gets the dull part & he shaped his boot to perfection, while even RMC at the same price point, makes a leather Wellie. Wesco makes a nice Engineer too, though.
But that's just my opinion on the matter. A lot of people like these in general so all good. :D

Speaking of, Dsquared2 recently released a surprisingly good looking Engineer boot! It's got a stupid zipper which is a huge negative in my book but on the other hand, it's made in calf so I don't expect it to be an instrument of torture like those heavy-*** HH boots.
Then again, it's a thousand euros so perhaps it'd be best to invest into something else but either way, if I had many money, I'd probably buy these.

17342579_35760887_1000.jpg

015_d99babd7-0945-458d-80a8-fcff7fbf888c.JPG

Eesh, that's scary money... I have handled a pair of Clinch boots in London and they are beautiful, but the price is just way far beyond what I'd ever pay for a pair of boots (unless maybe fully bespoke, though they'd be the steal of the century for that price if they were). I'd quite like to see the Schotts in person; they don't look to me all that far off the Chippewas, though I'm very much keen on engineer boots when I find the right fit.

Not generally a fan of zips, though the right one could be a plus for air-travel. Problem is, for the zip to have an advantage there, either the buckles are reduced to mere decoration, or you're still into doing up buckles so the time saving is gone.
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
Pretty close to this, with an extra 5mm of heel height and a nice Cuban curve on the heel. I’m leaning toward the Badalassi, mostly because I don’t like the idea of teacore on boots. Though the Shinki and Maryam both look stunning. If the wait wasn’t so long I’d have ordered already, but now I’m hesitating.

View attachment 364695 View attachment 364696 View attachment 364697
go black Maryam it feels/look more premium, the nero Badalassi is a little matte so I had to mink oil mine.
 
Messages
17,466

Great read. All on point and my very limited experience with US made boots corresponds with what you've written. Shame Frye is no longer in the competition.

Jake, I know you might be tired of explaining it… but could you just give me a hint what are the major differences between Cuban and woodmans heel?

Should I not be mistaken, Woodsman or Logger heels are curved at the back with a slight taper while Cuban heels are more angled with a dramatic taper and often (much) higher.
 
Last edited:

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,543
Jake, I know you might be tired of explaining it… but could you just give me a hint what are the major differences between Cuban and woodmans heel?
These are examples of woodsman heels:
xK8PsON.jpg

oLyU9K6.jpg

omPDg25.jpg

pkNKzNX.jpg

RrLbLw2.jpg

deuLOy4.jpg

Lv9wtOM.jpg

You can see that they start to angle inward, but then curve back to being straight or nearly straight by the point that they get to the bottom of the heel. They are not all the same in terms of angle and curve with the Onderhoud being too extreme in my opinion, but all of these are examples of woodsman heels. The woodsman heel is also called the logger heel.
This is a Cuban heel:
RPETYjH.jpg


You can see that it angles in much more sharply and that angle does not stop. It's more of a straight angle and does not have any curve.

Similar to the cuban heel is the dogger heel:
LLUuWvU.jpg

xwbL9la.jpg


It's not as small in footprint and maybe not as harsh in angle, but you can see that it does not have that curve of the woodsman heel. It just angles in and does not level out at all. Many cowboy boots have some similar heels to these and Cuban heels.

Great read. All on point and my very limited experience with US made boots corresponds with what you've written. Shame Frye is no longer in the competition.



Should I not be mistaken, Woodsman or Logger heels are curved at the back with a slight taper while Cuban heels are more angled with a dramatic taper and often (much) higher.

Thanks! Really appreciate that! Yes it is a shame. I wish they were still on Red Wing level. Would give more solid options.

Yes, that is essentially the difference between the two.

Totally. For my order, I want the heel a tad taller and more Cuban than woodsman: the curve or angle of a Cuban but with the greater base area (ie greater length of heel base extending towards toe) of the woodsman style.



View attachment 365176

Ah so you are trying to do some sort of dogger heel then?
 

ABCD

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,710

Interesting read, thanks.

"Most of them just do not match up to competition from makers in the UK(...)"

Which Amekaji/heritage style makers from the UK are you referring to? (I don't know any). Only one I can think of is Joseph Cheaney, but they are mediocre at best in terms of qc.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
114,448
Messages
3,174,799
Members
58,286
Latest member
kaanchkaglass
Top