Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

French Hats and makers.

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,696
Location
Central Texas
A beauty, for certain.

After a long wait my Berteil finally arrived! Looks to be the forest green (or Charmille 'arbor') companion to @steur wonderful blue Berteil. Wonderfully dense and pliable felt, just as good as the older pre wars I e handled.

To my heartbreak, the tags reveal it's actually a 6 1/2 punti as opposed to the listed 57cm... Alas.
 
Messages
17,291
Location
Maryland
Quite some time ago I bought my very first top hat and it happened to be a real early Gibus collapsible one:

View attachment 505743

View attachment 505744

View attachment 505745

For the others have a look at Steve's homepage (https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com)

or here e. g.: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/german-austrian-hutmachers.32103/page-411#post-2628104
Wolfgang, Sorry I missed your post and this fantastic find. As Stefan mentioned I haven't seen one with such dimensions.

Side Note: Wolfgang is my friend from Salzburg. He made this super accurate translation of this very important article on Echter / Real Velour.

 
Last edited:
Messages
17,291
Location
Maryland
After a long wait my Berteil finally arrived! Looks to be the forest green (or Charmille 'arbor') companion to @steur wonderful blue Berteil. Wonderfully dense and pliable felt, just as good as the older pre wars I e handled.

To my heartbreak, the tags reveal it's actually a 6 1/2 punti as opposed to the listed 57cm... Alas.
Wayne, Good see your post! I am sorry about the size but at least it's in good hands.
 
Messages
17,291
Location
Maryland
Not strictly a bowler, but I wouldn't know what else to call it. It was part of the two hat deal and it was the one that caught my eye. In style it resembles as Cambridge bowler, but to keep it French let's call it a Melon Sorbonne (which isn't a thing, but has a nice ring to it).
Mouroux & Cauzeret chapeau melon. Size 55 with the brim at 5cm and the crown at 13cm. Corded and with a clasped bow set halfway between a side bow and a backbow. Two gromets on either side and a cord of unknown function. I think this a very early style and the hat certainly shows its age with the felt won down to the shellac on most of the brim and either mothing or wear has done a number on the front of the crown as well. Can't wear it but I still like it.

mouroux_01.jpg


mouroux_02.jpg


mouroux_03.jpg


mouroux_04.jpg


mouroux_05.jpg


mouroux_06.jpg


mouroux_07.jpg


mouroux_09.jpg


mouroux_10.jpg


mouroux_11.jpg
Stefan, Amazing finds! I kick myself for not securing such historical finds. Size shouldn't matter in such cases.
 
Messages
17,982
Location
Nederland
Berteil in brown. Size 60 with the overwelt brim at 6,7cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. This one was most likely made by Laubin for Berteil as the size label is the same they used.

berteil60_01.jpg


berteil60_02.jpg


berteil60_03.jpg


berteil60_04.jpg


berteil60_05.jpg


berteil60_06.jpg


berteil60_07.jpg


berteil60_08.jpg


berteil60_09.jpg


berteil60_10.jpg
 
Messages
19,003
Location
Central California

the_imperialist

One of the Regulars
Messages
209
Location
New Zealand
Thank you gents, I'm definitely pleased with the proportions and quality...and the price ;)

Wayne, Fantastic! Amazing color and form. The finish looks Seal Velour like! I am thinking it might be older.

Thanks Steve, it's pretty close to my Huckels (the hairs on the Flechet velour is just a tiny bit shorter). I'll defer to learned french hat experts, I just thought the label weren't as old as some of the ones I've seen though those were 20/30s one from memory.
 
Messages
17,291
Location
Maryland
Thank you gents, I'm definitely pleased with the proportions and quality...and the price ;)



Thanks Steve, it's pretty close to my Huckels (the hairs on the Flechet velour is just a tiny bit shorter). I'll defer to learned french hat experts, I just thought the label weren't as old as some of the ones I've seen though those were 20/30s one from memory.
Wayne, I think you could be correct. Maybe someone will chime in.
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,982
Location
Nederland
Latest arrival, a real beaut. Softest velour Fletchet. I'm estimating 40s/50s
That's a beautiful hat, Wayne. Good to see you around by the way. I think you're in the right spot with your estimate. Fléchet used the B. Fléchet in various forms on their hats for a good while. Difficult to say when they finnaly dropped the B, but it is somewhat later I think.
 
Messages
17,291
Location
Maryland
I decided to post this here. This is Robert's (RLK) fantastic NOS French Velour find of December 2011. I believe it was only posted in the "Post New Hats Here" thread.

RLK - Robert Dec. 28, 2011

9 Chapeaux NOS Peluche

P1030526.JPG


P1030528.JPG


P1030527.JPG


All are 56 or larger and genuinely unused or owned. From Marseilles.

The Silver/Gray are 2 @56/4-1/2.
Blacks are 57,59 and 2@60
Brown are 2 @ 59
1 Beige @57

All but the 2 60/6-1/2 have Fléchet labels, the others seem to be the same bodies but different labels. From Bodin.

Unbelievable find! Were they from a French source? Looking forward to more details.

They came direct from Marseilles. I am very excited and relieved. There were still more, but in tiny sizes and not cheap enough to speculate that I could find them homes.

Sample interior view:

P1030529.JPG


P1030530.JPG


RLK - Robert Dec. 29, 2011

Marron(Chestnut) Fléchet Velour

P1030535.JPG


P1030536.JPG


P1030534.JPG


RLK - Robert Dec. 30, 2011

Antonin France? black Austrian Velour

P1030546.JPG


P1030538.JPG


P1030552.JPG


P1030541.JPG


P1030549.JPG


pub032_006.jpg%25253D600.jpeg


Steve will be happy to learn that this one has an Austrian body. The two 6-1/2's have different liners and sweats but the same size tags with AF--the other says FRANCE on the tip. The felt is a little different although all the hats are about the same style and weight.
 
Messages
17,291
Location
Maryland
Continued.

Gorgeous. Is the liner not sewn in?

Its about 60% sewn in. The liner and the top edge of the ribbon are basted in place for original shipping/stacking. This one had the liner folded over a bit and the rear of the ribbon pushed down a little. They could use a steam fluff but are not dusty or otherwise damaged. They probably spent decades stacked in the original boxes.

France Velour

The other 6-1/2 without a liner. This one had its own paper cover and was on top so is even more undisturbed.

P1030554.JPG


P1030556.JPG


P1030557.JPG


These have about 6" open crowns and brims just over 2-1/4" and quite a bit of curve to the flanging.

This one is quite spectacular as well. Is the velour body and pile thicker on this example compared with the first, or is the ribbon simply sewn on more tightly?
The ribbon is smoother and tighter and the velour is fluffier as it hasn't been as compressed. The others would be similar with a brushing and careful steam. This photo is fresh from the wrapper without any work(other than soft center crease).

Chameau(Camel) Fléchet Velour

P1030561.JPG


P1030529.JPG


This beauty is a little unkempt from being inside another hat, but one of my favorites.

Heron Fléchet Velour

P1030563.JPG


P1030564.JPG


One of two different liner/sweatband styles on some of these hats. Also could benefit from some salon time.

 
Messages
17,982
Location
Nederland
Continued.



Its about 60% sewn in. The liner and the top edge of the ribbon are basted in place for original shipping/stacking. This one had the liner folded over a bit and the rear of the ribbon pushed down a little. They could use a steam fluff but are not dusty or otherwise damaged. They probably spent decades stacked in the original boxes.

France Velour

The other 6-1/2 without a liner. This one had its own paper cover and was on top so is even more undisturbed.

P1030554.JPG


P1030556.JPG


P1030557.JPG


These have about 6" open crowns and brims just over 2-1/4" and quite a bit of curve to the flanging.


The ribbon is smoother and tighter and the velour is fluffier as it hasn't been as compressed. The others would be similar with a brushing and careful steam. This photo is fresh from the wrapper without any work(other than soft center crease).

Chameau(Camel) Fléchet Velour

P1030561.JPG


P1030529.JPG


This beauty is a little unkempt from being inside another hat, but one of my favorites.

Heron Fléchet Velour

P1030563.JPG


P1030564.JPG


One of two different liner/sweatband styles on some of these hats. Also could benefit from some salon time.
Thanks for saving these, Steve. Robert's collection always had me in awe. These are no exception. Magnificent.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,567
Messages
3,040,620
Members
52,943
Latest member
Buhles
Top