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French Hats and makers.

PanosChris

Practically Family
Messages
973
Not strictly a bowler, but I wouldn't know what else to call it. It was part of the two hat deal and it was the one that caught my eye. In style it resembles as Cambridge bowler, but to keep it French let's call it a Melon Sorbonne (which isn't a thing, but has a nice ring to it).
Mouroux & Cauzeret chapeau melon. Size 55 with the brim at 5cm and the crown at 13cm. Corded and with a clasped bow set halfway between a side bow and a backbow. Two gromets on either side and a cord of unknown function. I think this a very early style and the hat certainly shows its age with the felt won down to the shellac on most of the brim and either mothing or wear has done a number on the front of the crown as well. Can't wear it but I still like it.

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Phenomenal! Any idea who the maker might be? I have one with the same paper label
 
Messages
17,982
Location
Nederland
Sools by Mossant or Mossant for Sools (take your pick). Fedora in blue (Bleu Oxfort according to the label - the French didn't bother to check the spelling of Oxford obviously). I have another Mossant in this colour which is very attractive. Size 56 with the bound brim at 6cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Superb felt with a great hand. Not exactly lightweight at 115 grams, but certainly not a heavy felt either.

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Messages
17,982
Location
Nederland
Another Mossant. Mossant Bayard homburg, or sometimes called "diplomatique" by the French, in a grey colour called gris fer (iron grey). Borsalino has a grey with that exact same name. Size 56 with the bound brim at 5,7cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. All the Mossant quality is there. I left it without side dents for now.

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Messages
17,982
Location
Nederland
Fléchet Chauvac heather felt fedora in grey. Size 58, but also seems closer to size 57. Overwelt brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10,5cm in front. This one seems very determined to hold on to its teardrop shape, so who am I to argue?
Lovely heather felt and a nice shark gill bow on the ribbon, but that does need replacement since it's quite dirty. Underside of the brim has some nibbles, but because of the heather felt they hardly show. No label inside the hat. Sold by Sools, Paris.

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Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,696
Location
Central Texas
I like the overall look of that one Stefan. The heather felt looks great on that style.

Fléchet Chauvac heather felt fedora in grey. Size 58, but also seems closer to size 57. Overwelt brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10,5cm in front. This one seems very determined to hold on to its teardrop shape, so who am I to argue?
Lovely heather felt and a nice shark gill bow on the ribbon, but that does need replacement since it's quite dirty. Underside of the brim has some nibbles, but because of the heather felt they hardly show. No label inside the hat. Sold by Sools, Paris.

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moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,694
Location
Northern California
Well, I didn't really need another black Homburg. But, I couldn't resist throwing out a modest maximum bid on this one, incorrectly described as a bowler. It looked quite a bit like a bowler in the seller's pics, so I was not 100 percent sure until I opened the box.

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The crown is about 5 1/4 inches open, brim is 2 inches with curl front to back, 1 3/4 inches on the sides. 2 inch ribbon. 148 grams. No tags or stickers to be found under the sweat. The felt is very nice with a soft hand. The sweatband seems well attached but somewhat stiff. It is responding well to an application of Obenauf's leather conditioner. There is a darker spot on the top of the crown (that doesn't smell like Obenauf's :) ) that isn't enough of a distraction to make me want to give it a naptha bath. Yet...
I'm wondering if this one could be 30's. Any thoughts or opinions welcomed!
 
Messages
17,982
Location
Nederland
Well, I didn't really need another black Homburg. But, I couldn't resist throwing out a modest maximum bid on this one, incorrectly described as a bowler. It looked quite a bit like a bowler in the seller's pics, so I was not 100 percent sure until I opened the box.

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The crown is about 5 1/4 inches open, brim is 2 inches with curl front to back, 1 3/4 inches on the sides. 2 inch ribbon. 148 grams. No tags or stickers to be found under the sweat. The felt is very nice with a soft hand. The sweatband seems well attached but somewhat stiff. It is responding well to an application of Obenauf's leather conditioner. There is a darker spot on the top of the crown (that doesn't smell like Obenauf's :) ) that isn't enough of a distraction to make me want to give it a naptha bath. Yet...
I'm wondering if this one could be 30's. Any thoughts or opinions welcomed!
It's a very cool find, John. My experience with Gelot is that their felts are wonderful, but the finishing is more pedestrian. Like with most french hats it's almost impossible to say when they were made, because we don't have anything to go on really.
 

moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,694
Location
Northern California
It's a very cool find, John. My experience with Gelot is that their felts are wonderful, but the finishing is more pedestrian. Like with most french hats it's almost impossible to say when they were made, because we don't have anything to go on really.
Thanks Stefan! I was very happy to win it, and even happier that it fits so well.
It is a good hat for the visually impaired as it has a really nice hand, looks beautiful in macro, without many pesky little details that I have to break out the magnifyer to enjoy. :)
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,542
Location
Denmark
Thanks Stefan! I was very happy to win it, and even happier that it fits so well.
It is a good hat for the visually impaired as it has a really nice hand, looks beautiful in macro, without many pesky little details that I have to break out the magnifyer to enjoy. :)
My French hat rule of thumb is, if it's a Mossant, Gelot, and/or sold in Sools, buy it!

Nice catch, John!
 
Mid-to-late 1960s (?) Fléchet for Pierre Cardin. The brim is 2-1/2” at the back and 3-5/8” at the front with a 5-1/4” open crown. 1-1/4” felt ribbon and 5/8” grosgrain binding.

Very nice felt, but I want to push the crown to the center of the brim for some reason. ;)

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Photo from 1966. Pierre Cardin is seated second from right. At a size 7-1/8 you 7-1/4 guys might want to take that into account if you want to wear this “properly “. :)

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Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,148
Location
Verona - Italia
"After all it's just a black Homburg"
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This is what I said to myself when I saw a couple of horrible photographs of the hat.
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Then I saw the inside and decided to buy it, despite the vagueness about its size.
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Mossant - Leon, considering that, Leon retailer located at 21, Rue Daunou - Paris always has a preponderant role in the brands of the hats sold by him.
This is a black firm felt Mossant, quite brimmed, for a homburg. Arrived in perfect shape after many years of being made.
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Perfect inside and out, except for a small amount of dust which is a must on black felts.
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These are the measurements: the crown at its maximum expansion is 13 centimeters, the ribbon is 5 centimeters and the perfectly curled wings are 6 centimeters.
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The size is 5 in the French scale, therefore a 57 cm. in Europe and a 7 1/8 in the US
All the lovers of elegant black homburgs can make an offer :)
 

moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,694
Location
Northern California
Everest.
An Ecuyer & Thomas creation.
I had been watching this one on Etsy for a while. I finally decided to buy it a couple of weeks ago. So, after a long, slow trip from Mirepoix, France it arrived today. And no, it did not smell of onions, celery and carrots.
The seller's measurement said it was 58.5 cm circumference, which would have worked for me. But, after trying it on, I was bummed to find it to be way too large. A look under the sweat found a 60 cm size tag folded under.
Oh well, another trade piece.

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The brim is 2 inches, the machine formed crown is 4 1/2 inches as creased. 119 grams.
The felt is very nice, on par with my E&T for Motsch Fils. The other components and construction are also quality, maybe not what they may have been in years past, but still nice for the time period. I am guessing 60's to 70's.
I wish it had fit...
 

ErWeSa

Familiar Face
Messages
65
Location
In the heart of Europe
Just found this thread again. Some time ago I posted my first top hat here - a collapsible early Gibus.

I thought I could also post the only (as far as I remember) other two french hats I possess (apart from a few police, army etc. képis) - they happen to be top hats as well, bought in the 1990s when my professional situation still allowed me holidays in this splendid country. Got the first one still with its protective "cover" on.
 

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