FS: 1930s Kuppenheimer SB topcoat raglan sleeve turnback cuffs, black Size S

[Rabbit]

I'm pretty well stocked up on vintage outercoats, so I thought I'd offer the one topcoat that I haven't worn so far, on account of it being black which is not my cup of tea after all.
The garment will be shipped from Germany, so due to the shipping cost this would be more interesting to the EU loungers - low shipping cost and no import fees.

I'm asking $85 plus shipping - I'll check out the shipping cost when and if there is interest.

Measurements:

Chest (pit to pit): 22"
Shoulder (estimate, since there is no regular shoulder seam due to the raglan shoulder construction): 18"
center of collar seam to cuff (= 1/2 arm span): 33.5"
back length (collar seam to hem): 42.5"

Condition:

As good as mint, no insect activity, no abrasion, no popped stitches. Has been dry-cleaned by an excellent cleaner whom I trust with all my vintage clothes and who never failed me.

Notes on cut and size:

Note that this is a full cut. The waist does have some taper so it's not a straight cut, but the body is cut full which makes an intentionally roomy fit in the chest and waist compared to the shoulder.
If you're not sure whether it will fit, check the estimated shoulder width and the total sleeve length first. It will be an ideal fit if you normally take a shoulder width of 17.5" (+/- 0.5") on vintage outercoats.
Before you ask, I wouldn't advise to alter the basic cut dramatically.

Specs:

It's a single-breasted raglan sleeve with handwarmer pockets and turnback cuffs made by Kuppenheimer.
The dating is rather foggy; I found an ad from 1928 that shows exactly the same model. The labels, liner material and lapel shape point towards 1930s.

The color is pitch-black, and the wool material has a slightly rough surface - visually only, it's in fact very soft to the touch. It's not a wool bouclé, but the cloth has a visually interesting surface.

I'd estimate the cloth weight to be in the neighbourhood of 20oz/ 600g, rather light for vintage outercoats but still considerably heavier than the modern stuff.


These are the seller's pics where I got the topcoat.

















1928 ad showing the same model (on the right):

 

[Rabbit]

Shipping cost should be as follows:

Within Germany €7
Within EU €17
To USA €36 (currently about $48)

Just for your consolation, I got most of my vintage overcoats from the U.S. and am used to paying $50 for shipping - it costs pretty much the same in either direction.

 

[Rabbit]

bump

 

[Broccoli]

Do you think shortening the arms would be difficult? Would the overcoat be too warm for spring?

 

[Rabbit]

PM sent, Brocoli.
The overcoat is good for temperatures up to perhaps 12 degrees Celsius day peak, I'd say. In the case of higher latitudes like your location it's definitely suitable for spring, else for warmer winters. I wouldn't wear it in temperatures far below freezing, but that's because I'm used to vintage overcoats, of which this one is a lightweight by comparison. 600g is about the lightest weight I own, and I do wear this weight in spring.

Like an acquaintance of mine always says - one should wear an overcoat as long as weather permits, not only when weather demands it. In this spirit, I'm thankful for the lightweights.


About the arms, this might be of general interest so I'm adding the info here as well.

The Kuppenheimer has a full turnback cuff without buttons. In the case of this particular coat, it's not difficult for a good alteration tailor to shorten the sleeves, and the result will not show any clues that an alteration has been made. It shouldn't be very expendsive - I'd say less than twice the amount you'd pay for having a regular overcoat sleeve shortened.
I'll explain. The images further below may help in following the prose.

The full turnback is secured with hidden stitchings about halfway between cuff edge and upper edge of the turnback. These stitchings have to be opened and the turnback has be turned out and opened, then the sleeve has to be cut a short distance above the old folding line. After that, the required length to shorten is cut from the sleeve, and the off-cut end of the sleeve (the cuff, that is) is re-attached by sewing the material blind, meaning that it's folded inside. Finally, the turnback is flipped over again and secured. The sewing line where the sleeve was cut has to be covered by the turnback cuff.

The whole procedure means that the turnback is not made anew, but simply set upward on the sleeve. Doing the turnback anew wouldn't be feasible because of the decorative stitchings etc. at the very edge of the turnback.

Overcoats with a regular shoulder seam (that eliminates the Kuppenheimer, which has a raglan shoulder) could also be shortened from the shoulder, but that is hardly advisable since the armhole construction is usually beyong the capacity of contemporary alteration tailors. Still, it wouldn't be too difficult, but the result would be less than satisfactory even though the tailor may claim otherwise.


Some more info on turnback cuffs:

First, there are different types of turnback cuffs. One type has the cuff turned back all around the circumference. Another type has only one half of the circumference (the half that faces the front) turned back, the other half is hemmed normally without the extra material of a doubled cuff. Let's call these two kinds of cuffs the "full turnback cuff" and the "half turnback cuff" - I don't know the tailor's terms.
The half turnback cuff can be adorned with a decorative button, very much like a shirt button cuff.
The full turnback cuffs that I have seen so far (a few dozens) had no buttons. Usually, the full turnback has a short slit located on either side or both sides of the sleeve seam, where the decoartive stitching follows the rounded contours of the cuff edge.

Here are some photos of other overcoats of mine from my own wardrobe (sellers pics, though) showing turnback cuffs on lighter-colored fabrics. By the way, contrary to intuition, perhaps, turnback cuffs were often used on very heavy and voluminous fabrics.

*****NOTE: These are not for sale, I'm just posting these photos to show turnback cuffs on lighter-colored fabrics.*****

Half turnback:
1930s wool bouclé DB belted back overcoat



Half turnback with button:
1936 Union label flecked large Herringbone Tweed SB Overcoat quarterlined

 

[Rabbit]

Sold, pending payment.

Edit: Sold.