German & Austrian Hutmachers

Discussion in 'Hats' started by mayserwegener, Sep 1, 2008.

  1. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    Matt, My Leipzig P. & C. Habig Wien had some repair work done to the bow so not totally original but probably close. Mine has a soft hand but the felt is not super pliable. In most cases P. & C. Habig Wien didn't use very pliable felt with their City Dress style Soft Felts. There are exceptions but most have heavier weight felt and are not so pliable. This also applies to post WWII hats. It's probably by design based on what was expected by their customer base but this is only a guess. Also P. & C. Habig Wien sourced felt and from what I know never produced their own felt.

    I was very lucky to find the P. & C. Habig Wien "Special", P. & C. Habig's "Special Qualität" Reine Handarbeit Berlin Friedrichstr. 82a Homburg. It's in pretty much mint condition and was stored Open Crown so easily dry creases but the Felt is not super pliable but the hand amazingly soft. Again I think this by design based on other examples.

    I don't think there is anything left of the original structures in around Friedrichstr. 82a. It's too bad because from what I can remember from WWII photos the buildings were restorable. Probably a combination of politics and money (see the City Palace). That area ended up in the East sector.
     
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  2. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt Practically Family

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    You're absolutely right, Steve: there's nothing left of the original building.
    That's why I was looking for a good picture to put next to your old one...

    Interesting that you made the same observation as I did:
    I was very surprised when the Habig arrived that the felt is comparatively
    so heavy and firm. Don't get me wrong: the quality is super good and
    the surface is incredibly soft, but not very flexible. I find your idea
    that the "customer's design wish" is possibly behind it captivating.
    Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
     
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  3. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt Practically Family

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    After Stefan @steur showed us his Barbisio-linked new acquisitions
    in the corresponding thread the other day, here is my matching arrival:

    Pre-war "Rockel" hat display made of cardboard with metal rim
    (I think Steve has some of these items and also a similar one from Rockel - who if not him!?)
    The cool thing about this object for presenting the matching hats at the shop is the small metal rail
    for holding a slip of paper - in this case demonstrably used to note the hat size.

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  4. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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  5. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt Practically Family

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    Thanks to a tip from Panos now freshly arrived in my possession:

    C. G. Wilke (Guben) "Blitz" velour in a grey called "Feldgrau" = field grey.
    Height open crown at 15.0 cm; centre dent at 10.0 cm; brim at 5.5 cm
    The velour felt is great, incredibly soft and flexible - but not to be compared
    with my Hückel "Prima" or the "Superior" or a "Sigma - Seal Velour",
    but this is rather due to the fact that the velour hair of the Wilke is shorter
    (different "quality") and therefore feels different anyway.
    The town of Höchst was incorporated into Frankfurt/Main in 1928,
    so the hat (see seller's stamp on the sweat) must date later
    - but that was likely anyway.
    The model name and the colour designation, together with the sweat,
    which in my opinion is of rather "inferior" quality, made me think
    that the otherwise wonderful hat with a beautiful hand was made
    back in wartime at the beginning of the 1940s. But that is only a guess...

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  6. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

    Messages:
    16,108
    Location:
    Maryland
    Matt, I can only guess but maybe they wore them without side dents or didn't want the shape to change easily. For example Adenauer wore his P. & C. Habig Wien Homburg (yes he wore a Austrian made Homburg :) ) without side dents.

    https://germanaustrianhats.invision...der-höhe-germany/?do=findComment&comment=1358
     
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  7. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    16,108
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    Matt, Great find! I think this one is older than ones I have but I would have to check.
     
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  8. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    Matt, Super find! I can't remember when they switched production but possibly early 1940s. Guben got hit hard. I am sure you know this but the "8" on the paper label is 58 cm. The Velour is not near the level of JHS Velour (and other Austrian companies) although I have a couple earlier C. G. Wilke Velour that are really nice. Mayser on the German side made great Velour up to WWII. Same with some of the some of the Bavarian Velour makers. I enjoy wearing my C. G. Wilke Soft and Stiff Felt Hats. They had some unique advertisements too.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2022
  9. PanosChris

    PanosChris Practically Family

    Messages:
    821
    Matt, Great!! Happy that's it fits you!! I have one Wilke "blitz" velour from the 30s, I got from Steve and the quality is really top notch. Judging from the pics, it could be that mine is slightly of longer nap I think. Not sure if it qualifies as a "soleil" though but probably more sheen. I have found that sometimes the velour hand and feel (stiffeners?) might differ somewhat between the individual hats, even within the same line. Also within the great JHS velours, though generally more consistent I guess. Just my thoughts
     
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  10. steur

    steur

    Messages:
    14,686
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    Nederland
    That's a wonderful find, Matt. It looks to be substantial felt on that one. I like the Rockel hat display as well. Those can be found for various brands, but usually the asking price is quite high.
     
  11. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt Practically Family

    Messages:
    865
    Location:
    Germany
    Thank you, gentlemen, for your comments, remarks, additions
    - and also for the enthusiasm for this hat: it always pleases me when we can share this joy!

    Yes, the 8 is 58, although the hat looks big for it - more like 59!
    The good thing is, Steve, I've already learned this Wilke peculiarity from you,
    and when Panos showed me the hat that was priced at 57,
    I knew thanks to the label photo that it could work well for me. ;)

    About the felt: Yes, it is certainly not as high quality as the JHS velour,
    but it is still very good compared to others I have handled.
    I just also think that you can't compare all velours in terms of quality
    by touch if they have a different finish - a different hair length.
    But you know that - not every JHS feels the same...
    But I also think I can get even more out of the Wilke if I steam and brush it properly again.
     
  12. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt Practically Family

    Messages:
    865
    Location:
    Germany
    Thank you, Stefan. You are absolutely right when you say that these "buckets" are really expensive for a bit of printed cardboard. That's how I know the offers and that's why I bought this one for 12€, because I could justify it. ;) Sometimes you are lucky or better you have to be patient.
     
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  13. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

    Messages:
    16,108
    Location:
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    Matt, I was making a general statement regarding JHS Velour quality + variety of finishes. There is also the factor of the Velour condition (dirt, sun exposure, insect damage, worn nap). I probably wear this C. G. Wilke "Bürstel Electra" the most of all my Velour Hats.

    https://germanaustrianhats.invision...-hutfabrik-guben/?do=findComment&comment=1542
     
  14. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

    Messages:
    16,108
    Location:
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    J. Hückel´s Söhne Promotional Pocket Mirror, 1930s and a recent arrival.

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  15. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    Wonderful Steve. I love your ephemera finds just as much as your hats.
     
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  16. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    16,108
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    Steve, Thank you! I enjoy that side of things almost as much as the actual hats.
     
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  17. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    Dunn & Co. Ltd London Provinces, "Austrian Velour", "Romeo", English Size 7 1/8 possibly mid to later 1930s. Based on the paper label format I believe this hat was made by Anton Peschel Neutitschein (APN). I would like to thank Panos for making this fantastic Austrian Velour available to me. The Velour is all around (color, finish and hand) really fantastic. The Velour is more Close Cropped and has high gloss. The Velour is also very pliable but still holds it's shape. All the components are of high quality and the condition is excellent. APN Soft and Stiff Felt Hats are rare finds so major props to Panos.

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    Open Crown

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    Last edited: Jan 15, 2022 at 4:50 AM
  18. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    Such a super find, Steve. Panos is getting to be quite the hat hunter.
     
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  19. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

    Messages:
    16,108
    Location:
    Maryland
    Steve, Thank you! Great find by Panos. I was able to make the connection based on the paper label format.

    This paper label is in German and has the the A. P. mark and also is a APN branded hat but has the same word types in German + order (this is consistent with APN going way back) along with other similarities.

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    English

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  20. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    If Panos is the hat hunter, you're definitely the hat detective, Steve. Nicely made connection.
     
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