German & Austrian Hutmachers

[Daniele Tanto]

Daniele, Based on the Form and Components it appears the other hat was also made by J. Heinrich Ita. I actually also recently found a J. Heinrich Ita.

Thanks Steve. I will try to check again under the sweatband...but I have your same impression

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks Steve. I will try to check again under the sweatband...but I have your same impression

Daniele, Thank you for finding both hats!

 

[mayserwegener]

I was able to make an important discovery because Randy @Rmccamey inquired about the origins of this Ebay Wool Stiff Felt.

"Lissner" is the surname of Berthold Lissner of Guben whose factory was part of the Berlin - Gubener Hutfabrik (Hat Factory) AG Group which was the largest in pre WWII Germany (Wool and Fur Felt Soft & Stiff Felt Hats + Hat Bodies, and Fez).

Now it's possible to identify the maker of the following Wool Soft and Stiff Felt Hats with the same paper Stamp and Format as Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik / BGH.

Soft Felts

Berlin Gubner Hutfabrik, "Germania", "Wilkau"

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5646

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik, "Gloria", "EMS"

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5647

Berlin Gubener Hutfabtik, "JEDDO", "Henrich"

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5648

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik, "Dogma", "Striegau"

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5649

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik, "Bellona", Made for Emil Seeling Neudamm

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5651

Stiff Felts

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik, "Record", Made for Magazin Zum PFAU Lepzig "Record"

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5652

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik, "Ultima", Made for Carl Zeumer Magazin Zum PFAU, "Pfau-Hut Spezial Qualität

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5653

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik, Made for R. Hecht Leipzig - Theater Passage

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5650

If I am missing any please let me know.

 

[Rmccamey]

Glad I could help, Steve.

I was able to make an important discovery because Randy @Rmccamey inquired about the origins of this Ebay Wool Stiff Felt.

"Lissner" is the surname of Berthold Lissner of Guben whose factory was part of the Berlin - Gubener Hutfabrik (Hat Factory) AG Group which was the largest in pre WWII Germany (Wool and Fur Felt Soft & Stiff Felt Hats + Hat Bodies, and Fez).

Now it's possible to identify the maker of the following Wool Soft and Stiff Felt Hats with the same paper Stamp and Format as Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik / BGH.

Soft Felts

Berlin Gubner Hutfabrik, "Germania", "Wilkau"

http://[URL]https://germanaustrianh...15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5646

[/URL]

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik, "Gloria", "EMS"

http://[URL]https://germanaustrianh...15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5647

[/URL]

Berlin Gubener Hutfabtik, "JEDDO", "Henrich"

http://[URL]https://germanaustrianh...15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5648

[/URL]

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik, "Dogma", "Striegau"

http://[URL]https://germanaustrianh...15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5649

[/URL]

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik, "Bellona", Made for Emil Seeling Neudamm

http://[URL]https://germanaustrianh...15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5651

[/URL]

Stiff Felts

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik, "Record", Made for Magazin Zum PFAU Lepzig "Record"

http://[URL]https://germanaustrianh...15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5652

[/URL]

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik, "Ultima", Made for Carl Zeumer Magazin Zum PFAU, "Pfau-Hut Spezial Qualität

http://[URL]https://germanaustrianh...15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5653

[/URL]

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik, Made for R. Hecht Leipzig - Theater Passage

http://[URL]https://germanaustrianh...15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5650

[/URL]

If I am missing any please let me know.

 

[mayserwegener]

Glad I could help, Steve.




View attachment 762790 View attachment 762791

Randy, Again, Major Thanks! That is a Super Swiss Stiff Felt!

 

[mayserwegener]

Rehfus & Cie. Kehl - Rhein "AERIFOR", FP 6, 120 grams, possibly early 1930s. The black Fur Felt is very dense with a fine Smooth Finish and is light in weight. It has a nice Form and the workmanship is of very high quality. The light weight Liner is stitched in which is less common. The overall condition is excellent. Rehfus & Cie. Kehl - Rhein became known in Germany and abroad for their Stiff Felt Hats. "AERIFOR" is from the English word "Aeriform" which means "having the form or nature of air" which is applicable to this Stiff Felt.

I believe the Liner Protector is made of Celluloid and has become brittle. It has also developed an amber tinge. A small piece of the Celluloid is missing in the lower left corner. The "AERIFOR" logo is a fantastic design.

Druckfrei / Pressure Free

Stitched In Liner

 

[mayserwegener]

"Hausmarke", Wool, Back Bow, 57 cm, possibly late 1920s early 1930s. The Crown Patch is missing because this Wool Soft Felt had a Crease Clip. It's possible the Crown Patch had a brand mark but not from the manufacture. This based on on a number of Soft and Stiff Felt Hats from with similar paper labels. I was able to recently solve one of the of these mysteries ( See https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/15-berlin-gubener-hutfabrik/#findComment-5645 ) but not this one ( See https://germanaustrianhats.invision...h-no-company-mark-and-arbeits-no-paper-label/ ). I am pretty sure the hats came from one of the major Eastern factories that didn't survive WWII.

The Felt is a Charcoal Gray and is of a heavier weight. I kept the Off Center Crease caused by a now missing Crease Clip. The wider width Curled Brim has a triple stitched Over Welt with a taller Crown. The wide lighter gray Band has a Back Bow. This more Formal Style / Type of Soft Felt was popular in the time period. The overall all condition is very good. I very much like finding this old Wool Soft and Stiff Felt Hats because they were worn by the masses and saw more heavy wear.

Without Side Dents

Off Center Crease Clip Memory

I believe this is a Charcoal Gray because Black is marked a "0" Fabre / Color on similar Paper Label examples.

Open Crown with Crease Clip Memory.

 

[mayserwegener]

J. Heinr. Ita Wien "Extra Qualität" "Etui", 56 cm, possibly late 1950s early 1960s. The Smooth Finish Light Lime Green Felt is very Pliable and the Crown has an interesting Stitched Cross Pattern . The Brim Binding is a Dark Lime Green with Inside Dual Sawtooth Stitching. The Mid Width Dark Lime Green Band has a sporty Bow Design.

Open Crown

 

[Nikolaus23]

New addition: Blum hat made in the Carl-Blum-Factory in Wels (Upper Austria). The factory closed in 1935 (buildings still exist). So that hat has to be at least 91 years old. It's black and says Prima-Velour, condition ist good but not perfect. Unfortunately no additional paper-label etc. was found. Maybe the sweatband is not the original one (and a little bit torn)? It also mentions 'Norbert Blum, Wels, Schmidtgasse 30, Kaiser-Josefs-Platz 4' on the lining - I guess a shop in the center of Wels. Don't know if the two Blums are connected. Found this newer article which says Carl Blum had shops in Amsterdam, Berlin, London, Paris (maybe even New York) and Vienna and 260 employees. The factory seems to be built 1874 but the company started 1834 by Anton Blum as '1. Oberösterreichische Velourfabrik'.

Size is about 55. Which is a pity because that's too small for me. If anyone is more into collecting than me I'm happy to pass along the hat, Niky

 

[mayserwegener]

New addition: Blum hat made in the Carl-Blum-Factory in Wels (Upper Austria). The factory closed in 1935 (buildings still exist). So that hat has to be at least 91 years old. It's black and says Prima-Velour, condition ist good but not perfect. Unfortunately no additional paper-label etc. was found. Maybe the sweatband is not the original one (and a little bit torn)? It also mentions 'Norbert Blum, Wels, Schmidtgasse 30, Kaiser-Josefs-Platz 4' on the lining - I guess a shop in the center of Wels. Don't know if the two Blums are connected. Found this newer article which says Carl Blum had shops in Amsterdam, Berlin, London, Paris (maybe even New York) and Vienna and 260 employees. The factory seems to be built 1874 but the company started 1834 by Anton Blum as '1. Oberösterreichische Velourfabrik'.

Size is about 55. Which is a pity because that's too small for me. If anyone is more into collecting than me I'm happy to pass along the hat, Niky

Niky, Great find! There are only a small number of Carl Blum finds. This one does look like it was modified / refurbished at a later time. Is there a paper label behind the sweatband? Stefan / Steur has a very nice example posted in this thread and on my site.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/126-velour-hutfabrik-carl-blum-wels-austria/

 

[mayserwegener]

P. & C. Habig Wien - Berlin, Seidenzylinder / Silk Top Hat, 57 cm, possibly late 1920s. Came with a P. & C. Habig Wien Hutfabrikanten Berlin Carton and a Bernhard Feiler Berlin Velvet Polishing Pad. Very good overall condition.

Bernhard Feiler Berlin, Velvet Polishing Pad, Possibly Late 1920s.

P. & C. Habig Wien Hutfabrikanten, Berlin Friedrichstr. 82a - Hat Carton - possibly late 1920s.

 

[Steve1857]

P. & C. Habig Wien - Berlin, Seidenzylinder / Silk Top Hat, 57 cm, possibly late 1920s. Came with a P. & C. Habig Wien Hutfabrikanten Berlin Carton and a Bernhard Feiler Berlin Velvet Polishing Pad. Very good overall condition.

Bernhard Feiler Berlin, Velvet Polishing Pad, Possibly Late 1920s.

P. & C. Habig Wien Hutfabrikanten, Berlin Friedrichstr. 82a - Hat Carton - possibly late 1920s.

Wow! Superb find, Steve.

What are the dimensions?

 

[mayserwegener]

Wow! Superb find, Steve.

What are the dimensions?

Steve, Thanks again! Crown 5 1/2 inches / 14 cm, Width 9 1/2 inches / 24 cm, Length 12 inches / 30.5 cm.

 

[mayserwegener]

P. & C. Habig Wien, Hutmacher 1862, Seidenzylinder / Silk Top Hat, 58 cm, Crown 6 inches / 15 cm, Width 9 1/2 inches / 24 cm, Length 12 inches / 30,5 cm, possibly early to Mid 1920s. This is a really fantastic Seidenzylinder and in excellent condition. Superb overall (components & workmanship) quality. It has the Paper Label and other interesting markings be behind the Sweatband. There is a P. & C. Habig Wien "Patent Ventilator" at the Front of Sweatband but not mentioned. Also came with a restored + modified Blue Carton with an interesting interior design.

Post WWI Austrian Coat Of Arms With Hammer And Sickle.

"58" CM Size And "A/3" Form, Right Side Front to Back

"A W M" ?, at the Rear

"D" ? at Front

"H??", "Patent Ventilator". Front Sweatband

Carton, restored + modified

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Sometimes a stroke of luck comes unexpectedly.

Two Wilkes arrive from the same seller in Germany, each with a magnificent Melousine felt hat.

Both are leftovers from a warehouse or store; the outside size is still attached to the ribbon.


I'll show you a preview of them as soon as they arrive.

There's still some left on the fur felt side, which arrived in the last few days, and then we'll move on to hats suitable for the season.

 

[steur]

Peschel velour fedora in grey-brown. Siz 57 with the raw edge brim at 5,5cm at the crown at 10cm at the center dent. This one has some age to it and could well be before WWII. The moths had a go at it and took a few nibbles but nothing too bad. The liner is in poor condition and doesn't add much to the hat, so I might take it out. The felt is wonderful.

 

[mayserwegener]

Peschel velour fedora in grey-brown. Siz 57 with the raw edge brim at 5,5cm at the crown at 10cm at the center dent. This one has some age to it and could well be before WWII. The moths had a go at it and took a few nibbles but nothing too bad. The liner is in poor condition and doesn't add much to the hat, so I might take it out. The felt is wonderful.

Stefan, Super find! I can't remember if there was a previous French market Anton Peschel Neutitschein find before but I tend to doubt it. I really like the Form and lighter color Velour. Does it have A.P. or A.P.N. on the left side of the paper label? Sometimes they are cut off. Also is that a "M." before "Rex"? Anton Peschel Dinkelsbühl also used "Rex" Quality mark.

 

[steur]

Stefan, Super find! I can't remember if there was a previous French market Anton Peschel Neutitschein find before but I tend to doubt it. I really like the Form and lighter color Velour. Does it have A.P. or A.P.N. on the left side of the paper label? Sometimes they are cut off. Also is that a "M." before "Rex"? Anton Peschel Dinkelsbühl also used "Rex" Quality mark.

Steve, thank you. Can't tell for certain if there's anything under that "39" label that's stuck on top of the label. There is a point after the P, which suggests there is an N to follow, but again: can't be certain. The letter before the Rex is an H.
I actually found another Peschel with the H. Rex designation:

 

[mayserwegener]

Steve, thank you. Can't tell for certain if there's anything under that "39" label that's stuck on top of the label. There is a point after the P, which suggests there is an N to follow, but again: can't be certain. The letter before the Rex is an H.
I actually found another Peschel with the H. Rex designation:

View attachment 772725

Stefan, Thank you for the checking the paper label and posting the additional paper label. I forgot about the previous A.P.N. "H. Rex".

 

[steur]

This one was for sale recently, but at the price to make your eyes (well, mine at least) water. So not mine, but very interesting. Need two posts for it as well.

Tonak Zephyr seal velour. This one mentions "formerly Hückel" on the sweatband, so likely just after WWII.