Hat articles and photos...

[Joshbru3]

Did anyone notice the "lords hat." It looks VERY familiar......

 

[rlk]

XVI Century Costumes

 

[rlk]

The Raymond is pinched and does not have a bound brim, but I agree with you that it was probably invented first.
I translated the sources you quoted with google translation and it is just secondary, talking about Wagner wearing a lobbia hat with a crown and red feather.
It also seems to be a year book, but not a local newspaper. In BadHomburg, I saw the newspaper from the day afterwards, where they described the hat.
I have not found such a piece of primary evidence for the Lobbia hat. Also, there seems to be hardly any information as to what hatmaker created it...
Thanks for the pic though.

Lobbia's stiff Bombetta(before denting) was a fairly recent style itself(of English invention). Article demonstrates that such hats(traditional soft German) were being called "Cappello Lobbia" the same year as the incident (1869) and in continuous use in Italy thereafter. The same cannot even be said for the "Homburg" in Germany or the USA until much later.

They weren't invented --but marketed as they were a traditional style with minor modifications. Whether called Fedora,Homburg or Trilby--all were attempts to broadly market the same central European(Alpine) soft, center creased, curled brim traditional hat to a broader audience with a Mass Media association.

Some of Edward's hats-both without binding.

 

[le.gentleman]

rlk, do you have a bigger picture of Geschichte der Kostüme? What book is it from?
I agree with you that most clothing items' invention cannot be pinpointed to a special day or person, because it evolved sometimes at different places. Nevertheless, we call it Homburg today and in Italy Lobbia, so the marketing worked obviously. It is just too bad that we do not have sources that say what hatmaker advertised the Lobbia. Maybe we could find more records then...

 

[Matt Deckard]

It is always nice to see and read a good hat article.

Now I need a new homburg.

 

[rlk]

rlk, do you have a bigger picture of Geschichte der Kostüme? What book is it from?
I agree with you that most clothing items' invention cannot be pinpointed to a special day or person, because it evolved sometimes at different places. Nevertheless, we call it Homburg today and in Italy Lobbia, so the marketing worked obviously. It is just too bad that we do not have sources that say what hatmaker advertised the Lobbia. Maybe we could find more records then...

I'll try to find a bigger copy of the Geschichte der Kostüme.
slightly larger:

found link to Dover Reprint , larger if clicked http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/COSTUME7_INDEX.HTML

I did have a bigger image of the Bad Homburg hat:

 

[zetwal]

http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/COSTUME7_INDEX.HTML

Cool site, thanks ...

 

[mayserwegener]

Great article and thread! I think the soft felt Alpine (center crease with brim curl) link is the key. I have never come across the use of the name Homburg or Fedora in any 1910 - 1938 German or Austrian hat manufacturing publication (Österreichisch-ungarische Hutmacher-Zeitung, Der Deustche Hutdetailist, Deutsche Hutmacher-Zeitung). There are 19th Century volumes available of these publication so it might be worth checking them out.

I posted these photos of Edward VII and Wilhelm II about a month or so ago (both photographed at Sandringham 1902).

 

[bowlerman]

very cool. thanks for posting! I love all these variations! But I'm not convinced the two photos rlk posted as without binding can be accurately accounted as such, especially the one on the right. looks bound to me. the left one is too dark or washed out to tell.

Josh-- I don't recognize that lord's hat, but is that your table underneath it?

So the unbound "homburg" with a stitched edge still classifies as a lord's hat?

 

[rlk]

very cool. thanks for posting! I love all these variations! But I'm not convinced the two photos rlk posted as without binding can be accurately accounted as such, especially the one on the right. looks bound to me. the left one is too dark or washed out to tell.

Josh-- I don't recognize that lord's hat, but is that your table underneath it?

So the unbound "homburg" with a stitched edge still classifies as a lord's hat?

The larger hat is from the museum in Bad Homburg--no question about lack of binding as was more common on these earlier hats but simply a style detail option not a change of classification. The "Lord's Hat" terminology had limited range--more marketing. I haven't gone into detail tracking its history but rarely encounter it-its a British reference in origin.

 

[rlk]

Kaiser and Tsar

He seemed to stick with that style

 

[rlk]

Straw Homburg 1904

Gives an idea of the interest in Edward's attire.

 

[rlk]

1912

 

[mayserwegener]

The Wilhelm II photos are from shooting parties (a type of Schützenhut). This is the description of the photo I posted above.

"Emperor Wilhelm II, the last German Kaiser and King of Prussia (1859-1941) photographed in November 1902 at a shooting party, organised in his honour by King Edward VII at his country residence, Sandringham House. In this photograph, in a pale blue hunting suit with Tyrolean hat and black *****’ feathers, his coat is carefully arranged to cover his left arm. What the Emperor had not foreseen, was a servant appearing doorway behind him. However, the Lafayette studio’s skilful retoucher has removed the servant from the image, leaving behind a ghostly outline."

This is an interesting video of Wilhelm II in Doorn. Shows some later life hats. The head gear (cannot remember what it is called) he is wearing at 2:26 was one of his favorites.

[video=youtube_share;OZZe4vf1LTU]http://youtu.be/OZZe4vf1LTU[/video]

 

[Oldsarge]

A Homburg wasn't my first serious hat nor was it the second. However before it's time to reassemble the stroller for next Easter, I will have one. For those wondering where to get one, Akubra (wouldn't you expect it?) makes them in black, carbon grey and fawn.

 

[Chepstow]

Steve, great find. Interesting to see the old Hats!

 

[le.gentleman]

Dear rlk and Steve,

Thanks for that information, I appreciate it.

 

[kaosharper1]

Ladies Hat article in the WSJ

While not many ladies look at this corner of the forum, I thought this was a good article for ladies talking about summer hats. The discussion of brim width and face type could be relevant to guys too.

http://online.wsj.com/articles/the-best-hats-to-wear-for-summer-1404944138?mod=WSJ_GoogleNews

 

[Tiki Tom]

Kim Jong-un Starts Glorious New Fedora Trend in Workers Paradise:

http://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/news/a40669/kim-jong-un-fedora/

 

[Frunobulax]

So...what's his FL screen name?