Hat Restorations - Good or Bad?

[Stetsonian]

I was wondering how many of you have had restorations done to your vintage hats and were you pleased with the results? I know if I buy a vintage Stetson, Borsalino, or other, I prefer to keep the hat as original if possible. Can the hat body be properly cleaned & re-blocked without damage to the original lining, sweatband, paper tags, etc. Do you have any companies you would recommend? Can you post any pictures of hats you’ve had restored? I have approximately 3 hats I would like to have cleaned up so I would appreciate any advice.

Thanks,
Jay

 

[Lefty]

Optimo

I once spoke to Art about a restoration. He's done some great restorations (see Alan C's grandfather hat), but is so busy with new hats that he suggested Optimo. If you're just having them cleaned and blocked, you shouldn't lose anything. If you need them sized up, the sweat is cracking, etc., you may need a new sweat and ribbon. Replacing the liner is up to you.

Here are two of my favorite threads on the Lounge.

This is my favorite conversion.

Some of my best friends are Italian.

 

[barrowjh]

Both of these laying on the table were restored by Optimo, and I think Graham did a great job. I think the show-stopper is the sweatband. Generally speaking, most vintage sweats, even if they are holding up reasonably well as originally sewn in, are a big risk for the restorer. Nobody (except yourself, if you are good with a needle and have the right needle) is going to restitch through the same holes. So, part of the 'price' for both restorations was loss of the sweatband. In my ignorance, I suspect that the sewing machine itself will probably put enough stress on a vintage sweat that the restorer just does not want to invest the time/frustration in trying to work with it in many cases.

 

[handlebar bart]

Both of these laying on the table were restored by Optimo, and I think Graham did a great job.

The ribbon work on the black(?) one is fantastic. Is that original or done by Optimo? Really sharp look:eusa_clap

 

[barrowjh]

this is that 1st hat on the table on the left, what it looked like before Graham restored it. Now it is one of my three 'top shelf' hats (green, grey, and cinnamon brown), all with felted edges.

 

[barrowjh]

The one on the right is a green barbisio, and the ribbon is original. Graham admitted to a bit of gnashing his teeth to get the ribbon back on the hat right.

 

[handlebar bart]

The one on the right is a green barbisio, and the ribbon is original. Graham admitted to a bit of gnashing his teeth to get the ribbon back on the hat right.

lol I bet. And wow, it shows up black on my screen. Is it a really dark green? Like a forest green? And grey ribbon? Real snazzy lid thats for sure

 

[barrowjh]

It is a dark forest green, with a matching ribbon. The light in that pic may be playing tricks on us.

 

[Stetsonian]

I once spoke to Art about a restoration. He's done some great restorations (see Alan C's grandfather hat), but is so busy with new hats that he suggested Optimo. If you're just having them cleaned and blocked, you shouldn't lose anything. If you need them sized up, the sweat is cracking, etc., you may need a new sweat and ribbon. Replacing the liner is up to you.

Here are two of my favorite threads on the Lounge.

This is my favorite conversion.

Some of my best friends are Italian.

Thanks Lefty for the links to those two threads, I must admit that I was already thinking 'Optimo' as they are in my hometown and I plan on visiting there shortly. I read with interest your recent posts about your trip through Indy, Effingham, & Chicago. I was thinking 'small world' seeing as how you would have passed my current location, (Brazil, Indiana) travelling from Indy to Effingham. Then the Effingham area is where my family hails from, and the Chicago area is where I was born and spent the first 38 years of my life. As I said, 'small world'.

Both of these laying on the table were restored by Optimo, and I think Graham did a great job. I think the show-stopper is the sweatband. Generally speaking, most vintage sweats, even if they are holding up reasonably well as originally sewn in, are a big risk for the restorer. Nobody (except yourself, if you are good with a needle and have the right needle) is going to restitch through the same holes. So, part of the 'price' for both restorations was loss of the sweatband. In my ignorance, I suspect that the sewing machine itself will probably put enough stress on a vintage sweat that the restorer just does not want to invest the time/frustration in trying to work with it in many cases.

Thanks John, those are beautiful hats and I must say that the work done is nothing less than hat maker’s art. That ribbon is something else!

 

[jimmy the lid]

Those lids look great, John. :eusa_clap

Stetsonian -- I have sent several lids over to Graham at Optimo for a clean and block. They remove the liner for that process, so no risk there. For the most part, if the sweat is in good shape to begin with, that is also not a problem. That being said, I believe that if the sweat is in rather fragile condition, it will not necessarily survive the blocking process -- but this can always be discussed with Graham in advance. Once the lid is cleaned and blocked, the sweat is sewn back in. I have been extremely pleased with the results.

Cheers,
JtL

 

[Stetsonian]

Those lids look great, John. :eusa_clap

Stetsonian -- I have sent several lids over to Graham at Optimo for a clean and block. They remove the liner for that process, so no risk there. For the most part, if the sweat is in good shape to begin with, that is also not a problem. That being said, I believe that if the sweat is in rather fragile condition, it will not necessarily survive the blocking process -- but this can always be discussed with Graham in advance. Once the lid is cleaned and blocked, the sweat is sewn back in. I have been extremely pleased with the results.

Cheers,
JtL

Thanks JtL, that's the kind of info I'm looking for.
Keep posting guys; I'd like to hear your experiences good or bad!

Jay

 

[tonyb]

I certainly understand your desire to preserve as much of your vintage hats' originality and provenance as you can. And seeing how so much of that is in the sweatbands, you of course want to save them. Who isn't fascinated by the stories they tell? The manufacturers' old logos and model names, the original retailers' (often long-defunct retailers at that) labels embossed in gold, sometimes even the original price tags, well, all that stuff is downright cool.

However, the sweatbands used by our better custom hat makers these days are better than all but the best ones used in the old factory-made hats. (I'm not talking ALL modern sweatbands here, because some of 'em are kinda crummy. But the good ones are very, very nice.) And often those once-fine old ones are on their last legs. And refitting an old sweatband can be a real pain. They may appear to be in fine condition (and sometimes they really are), but often their fragility becomes apparent when you try to refit them into the hat bodies. Having both reused and replaced many a sweatband, I can appreciate why a hat renovator would rather go the replacement route. He can be much more confident that his customer will get a hat he can actually wear without fear of the sweatband failing anytime soon.

 

[toobacat]

Here is a restoration by Optimo.