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Hat sizing revisited

Messages
10,603
Location
My mother's basement
Careful that you don't cook the leather, Benny. There's a narrow window between shrinking it just a tad and turning it crispy.

Simply wetting the leather (its underside especially) and letting it dry at room temperature should reduce its size. It will likely also change the leather's texture, and not for the better. But it won't ruin it, as higher heat might.

For these reasons, I'm an advocate of the fold-some-paper-and-put-it-under-the-sweatband approach. It's a time-honored technique. Indeed, it's kinda fun to find folded pages from old magazines under the sweats of vintage lids.
 

singlechange

One of the Regulars
Messages
143
Location
Washington D.C.
To downsize my hats I have used a method Mr. Vince Corvelli, the master hatter, suggested to me a couple of years ago. I purchase a sheet of cork from hobby store or Joanne Fabrics Store and cut it into strips about one inch and a half width and perhaps six to eight inches long and insert them underneath the leather sweatband. The sheet of cork in the photograph is quite thin and very pliable, about 1/16 of an inch thick. I think a bit thicker works better.


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rlk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,100
Location
Evanston, IL
Any stuffing will not make the hat fit your face or head any better and padding the sides will actually push them out somewhat wider still. If the base of the crown is wider than your face it is simply too big unless it is reblocked to downsize the whole shape. If you are close enough, a little bit of rear and/or front padding will be less distorting to the appearance and not broaden the base front view.

There's more to fit than just staying on your head.
 
Messages
15,015
Location
Buffalo, NY
+1... and one full size would require a lot of stuffing which will distort the sweatband - not a help to the wearing comfort. If it is a new hat purchased from an online store, I would return it for the correct size. If it is a vintage hat and you like it, a hatter can reblock with a new sweatband to your size. I've had this done at Optimo with satisfactory results.
 
Messages
17,248
Location
Maryland
I have problems with some vintage hats that have taken on a more round shape (I am a LO). This could be by self conforming or by mechanical conforming (often see this with less flexible stiff felts).
 

MarkJohn

One of the Regulars
Messages
220
Location
Devon England
There's more to fit than just staying on your head.

This is true... but, I do have a 58/59 (I'm a 57) that I've shrunk, and padded-out, with great results. It may depend on the style, but this vintage German, looks perfect for my head, even if the fit is (or was) less than optimal.

Having said that, you can't get better than a correctly fitting hat, in a style that suits you... we have less choice in the UK.
 

Joe Rotax

Familiar Face
Messages
98
Location
South Ontario
Moisten the sweatband a bit, and pop it on top of a lampshade.

After reading your post I did this with a Stetson Range that was about one size too big. It fits perfectly now although it took two attempts at wetting the band and drying it out. No negative effects to the hat either so thanks for the information.
 

Monte

A-List Customer
Messages
463
Location
North Dakota
Now that I think of it, my hats are always questionable in size because 7 1/4 is a bit too small and 7 3/8 either fits well or is too big. My Stetsons of the latter all seem too big--and my Mallory by Stetson fits larger as well. Is that a coincidence?
 

UtepGeo

New in Town
Messages
5
Location
Oceanside, CA
Shrinking Sizing Stetsons, a new concern....

Hi, this is my first post. I am a geologist and while searching for the perfect field hat found a Stetson Open Road. But at size 7 it is one size too big. I have added a strip of leather around the inside of the band and it is snugged up although now corrugated a bit and feels uncomfortable...will it smooth out ?

But this is such a nice hat I am concerned about wearing in the field....I may search for another more worn out copy but my real concern is shrinking. I have read numerous threads and it is unclear if the hat will defiantly shrink based on vintage and use. I dont think most folks used their OR's as field hats. Which ever I use will be subject to long hikes, full hot sun and sweat. More severe than city use. I'm guessing this should almost guarantee shrinkage.....right?

So should I start with a larger hat to accommodate this or get the perfect fit and make sure I maintain it? Stetson says you can shrink a hat but stretching doesn't work.

If you think I should get the right size out of the box...anyone want to trade a like new, so far, size 6 7/8 for my size 7?

Thanks,

Warren
Utepgeo
 
Messages
10,524
Location
DnD Ranch, Cherokee County, GA
Welcome Warren,
Shrinking one size, 7 to 6 7/8, should not be that big of an issue. Dampen the sweatband with the added shims you have behind the sweat removed & leave it in a hot car. The sweatband will shrink, drawing the felt with it.

I've used OR as field hats for years. Don't run over it with a bushhog tho...
 

casechopper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,783
Location
Northern NJ
Though one could use an OR out in the field wouldn't you want a bit larger brim to keep the sun off? If you're going to be out in the sun and heat I'd recommend a wide brim poly-straw or if rain isn't a concern some light weight cheap straw. If rain is a concern and heat isn't going to be terrible maybe an outback style hat such as one of Akubras western models?

Leather shrinks when it gets wet and also degrades. Still, I would recommend getting a hat that fits and then also buying a hat stretcher. You could then place the hat on the stretcher at the end of the day to keep it from shrinking up (the same as a pair of shoe trees help keep your shoes in shape). The sweatband will fall apart and need replacement relatively regularly with heavy sweaty use but it isn't terribly expensive to replace a sweatband. If you're not averse to used hats from ebay, you shouldn't have any trouble finding nice hats cheap on ebay in your size. Buy a variety and try them out.
 
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The Wiser Hatter

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,765
Location
Louisville, Ky
With a size 6 7/8 head you should be able to pick up all kinds of OR's on eBay. There are tons on hats in that size in the vintage market. I local dealer had so many 6 7/8 hats he stopped counting at 500.:)
 

UtepGeo

New in Town
Messages
5
Location
Oceanside, CA
Yea...I have a straw hat but they get more stiff and brittle with age and shrank at least one full size. Mine is a good quality Larry Mahan I think about 15 years old but it just doesn't work for me as a filed hat. I have considered the Akubras but understand they have odd sizing issues as well...sized larger and they include felt strips till they shrink..?
I guess I have only had luck with "vintage" broke in hats fitting me properly and staying that way..

Thanks,

Warren
Though one could use an OR out in the field wouldn't you want a bit larger brim to keep the sun off? If you're going to be out in the sun and heat I'd recommend a wide brim poly-straw or if rain isn't a concern some light weight cheap straw. If rain is a concern and heat isn't going to be terrible maybe an outback style hat such as one of Akubras western models?

Leather shrinks when it gets wet and also degrades. Still, I would recommend getting a hat that fits and then also buying a hat stretcher. You could then place the hat on the stretcher at the end of the day to keep it from shrinking up (the same as a pair of shoe trees help keep your shoes in shape). The sweatband will fall apart and need replacement relatively regularly with heavy sweaty use but it isn't terribly expensive to replace a sweatband. If you're not averse to used hats from ebay, you shouldn't have any trouble finding nice hats cheap on ebay in your size. Buy a variety and try them out.
 

UtepGeo

New in Town
Messages
5
Location
Oceanside, CA
Glad to see I'm not the only one willing to abuse these hats! :D I'd not be so concerned if it wasn't a mint condition older version...but such a good price I can only lose money by searching for another copy now.

I have been using an old ~1/8 inch leather belt for the shim. If I understand you correctly you are suggesting I dampen the shim material and then place this behind the band in a hot car...right? I assume I should get something more absorbant than leather for this. I assume some stiff flet would be the best option but I can't figure out where to find such material...any suggestions for the best shim material?

Thanks,

Warren

Welcome Warren,
Shrinking one size, 7 to 6 7/8, should not be that big of an issue. Dampen the sweatband with the added shims you have behind the sweat removed & leave it in a hot car. The sweatband will shrink, drawing the felt with it.

I've used OR as field hats for years. Don't run over it with a bushhog tho...
 

job

One Too Many
Messages
1,325
Location
Sanford N.C.
If you are concerned about wearing this hat out in the field since it is so nice I would recommend a Akubra with grommets. The country style are of a thick course felt that will hold up to a lot of abuse. They have been Outback tested daily for over a hundred years.
 

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