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HNC Hatworks (formerly known as Agnoulita Hats)

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,581
Location
Central Texas
I hope you do, one day. It can be a little tricky. Too tall and it looks like a Topper, top short and it looks like a Gambler. Nothing wrong with those, they just have a different character than a Cambridge.

I’ve come close a couple times to asking Mike at Northwest to make me a Cambridge Bowler like yours…maybe one of these days.
 
Messages
18,818
Location
Central California
I hope you do, one day. It can be a little tricky. Too tall and it looks like a Topper, top short and it looks like a Gambler. Nothing wrong with those, they just have a different character than a Cambridge.


I’ve also wanted a Northwest Proper Topper top hat. The melusine finish is pretty close to silk plush and more durable too. However, like the Cambridge Bowler, I just don’t know when I’d wear it.
 

Hunk

New in Town
Messages
7
Mr. P makes some very nice hats but bowlers, even here on TFL, are a more specialized hat, so you won't see as many. And, no offense, but if you are going for a classic, vintage look, the Agnoulita bowlers miss the critical D'Orsay brim curl details. He (and most modern milliners) us the easier to construct [modern] homburg curl that is basically a symmetric curl around the perimeter of the brim. A D'Orsay curl has a very short "nubb" on the front and rear, in a vericle orientation parallel to the side of the crown. As the curl proceeds around the hat, the brim curl gets wider and folds over onto itself similar to an overwelt, almost perpendicular to the crown. For all practical purposes, there is not a machine that can do this, so it is done by hand which takes more time and effort and is, thus, more costly. Here is my Cambridge bowler (flat top bowler, coach hat, Oddjob, etc) and my brown bowler (modern hats by Northwest Hat Co) that show a little more of the D'Orsay brim detail. Here is also a picture of a 1920s Stetson bowler that show more of the brim detail.

While a stiff felt bowler is intended to be rather stiff or ridged, I'm not sure "extra stiff" is of much value IMO.

Again, Mr. P makes some wonderful hats. I just wanted to make sure you get what you expect to get.
Not to worry, however. Even Lock & Co., the original suppliers of bowler hats, has difficulty reproducing the D'Orsay curl today!
Thanks for your reply and pictures! I might reconsider my purchase plans based on them. It's unfortunately hard to find vintage bowlers that fits me (I'm Eurosize 61), but I might ask questions in the Bowler/Derby thread on were to find quality bowlers in the current market.
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,581
Location
Central Texas
Yes, unfortunate but true. Vintage bowlers in larger sizes are very rare. Brent @deadlyhandsome has come across a few over the years. He might have one stashed away or he might have a lead on one. Mike at Northwest Hats in the U.S. makes a custom bowler that might be an option, too.

Thanks for your reply and pictures! I might reconsider my purchase plans based on them. It's unfortunately hard to find vintage bowlers that fits me (I'm Eurosize 61), but I might ask questions in the Bowler/Derby thread on were to find quality bowlers in the current market.
 

Sincityhatcollector

Familiar Face
Messages
71
This is my Ascot that I ordered in Dark Slate I wish he still offered the Fire color liner but I do like the Burgundy liner as well. The crown is ~5 1/4 and ~2 3/8 for the brim. Overall I am happy with the hat and my steam and tweak the brim a little bit. IMG_20231208_170742~4.jpg IMG_20231208_164916~4.jpg View attachment 568406 IMG_20231208_164946~2.jpg IMG_20231208_165226~2.jpg
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,581
Location
Central Texas

ptjoe

Familiar Face
Messages
70
I want to order a hat from Agnoulita hats, but I am waiting to hear from them concerning a couple of questions.
The hat I am looking at is the Cavalieri with a 5 1/4"crown.
Is that the height from the brim to center crease or the highest point of the crown on the sides?
It seems like a pretty high crown
I have open crown hats running around 51/2" before shaping.
After shaping going down to 41/2 front and sides apprx. 5".
Just curious if that 51/4 crown is after its shaped.
May someone canshed some light.
 
Messages
10,268
Location
vancouver, canada
I want to order a hat from Agnoulita hats, but I am waiting to hear from them concerning a couple of questions.
The hat I am looking at is the Cavalieri with a 5 1/4"crown.
Is that the height from the brim to center crease or the highest point of the crown on the sides?
It seems like a pretty high crown
I have open crown hats running around 51/2" before shaping.
After shaping going down to 41/2 front and sides apprx. 5".
Just curious if that 51/4 crown is after its shaped.
May someone canshed some light.
I encourage you to have a conversation with the hatmaker so you are clear on what you are ordering. MrP at Agnoulita is a good guy and I am sure he would welcome a conversation so both of you are clear.
 
Messages
18,818
Location
Central California
I want to order a hat from Agnoulita hats, but I am waiting to hear from them concerning a couple of questions.
The hat I am looking at is the Cavalieri with a 5 1/4"crown.
Is that the height from the brim to center crease or the highest point of the crown on the sides?
It seems like a pretty high crown
I have open crown hats running around 51/2" before shaping.
After shaping going down to 41/2 front and sides apprx. 5".
Just curious if that 51/4 crown is after its shaped.
May someone canshed some light.


Mr. P is a great guy, but sometimes his communication can be erratic…or non-existent. You can order the hat open crown so you know the height you have to work with and then crease it yourself.
 

Sincityhatcollector

Familiar Face
Messages
71
I want to order a hat from Agnoulita hats, but I am waiting to hear from them concerning a couple of questions.
The hat I am looking at is the Cavalieri with a 5 1/4"crown.
Is that the height from the brim to center crease or the highest point of the crown on the sides?
It seems like a pretty high crown
I have open crown hats running around 51/2" before shaping.
After shaping going down to 41/2 front and sides apprx. 5".
Just curious if that 51/4 crown is after its shaped.
May someone canshed some light.
I have found I receive better communications through his Etsy store portal than the website and I'm willing to the little extra for ordering from Etsy when I want more customization than what is available through the website. I was able to get my grey Pandamator exactly the way I wanted including comparing ribbons for the hat band against the hat body before he completed the hat.
 

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