Leather jacket design, question

[Tkecks]

Hi,

The thread on the different horsehide textures on the front of the same jacket prompted me to post this. In that thread, irow is concerned that thinner leather on one side of the jacket may rip at the "stress point' at the corner of one of the pockets.

It is my understanding that stress points are often bolstered by a metal rivet or stud through the leather, that focuses the stress and prevents ripping of the leather. This is especially important in heavy biker jackets, hence why they generally have more studs etc. A similar stud/rivet is used for stress points in denim jeans & jackets.

I am trying to find out more about the principles of jacket/garment design using rivets/studs to counter stresses. As you might imagine, typing "leather jacket studs" into google brings up a multitude of sites, many of which are definitely NOT what I am looking for. Even the safe-for-work sites are mainly stores that sell jackets, details on how to emplace studs in a jacket, or focus on the visual appeal of the studs (spelling out names etc), rather than their original functional purpose. I have found a few references in leather armor design pages, but any leads on articles that the knowledgeable people here may have would be very welcome.

Thanks!

 

[Seb Lucas]

I wouldn't over think it. Few jackets ever tear. I've owned dozens over 30 years,from factory made jackets to handmade. If a jacket is of reasonable quality they last for years without issue. The lining is usually the only thing to wear out.

 

[apba1166]

Likewise: I've never had a seam go, and I've had some jackets over 20 years with lots of physical wear. I have had linings degrade as Seb says, and also tears on backs and arms in the leather due to rough use, caught on nails, spills, etc.--but not because of stress points. But no seams, even on some less expensive beater leather jackets that have been through me, a lot of weather and action, and most of all, two sons.

 

[Dinerman]

Same. The lining, the back of the collar and the zipper generally fail first.

 

[Tkecks]

Many thanks for the replies so far.

I'm not worried about a jacket wearing out; rather it's the actual related physical principles that I'm interested in: basically how jackets (or any leather work) are designed to counter shear-stresses. For the most part, jackets don't undergo much shear-stress under normal (non biking) wear, so yeah, zippers etc are the first to go. But under a lot of shear-stress, tearing is most likely to occur at particular points, and rivets/studs can help avoid this.

Perusing the internet makes me wonder whether rivet/stud placement is something of a lost art in functional jacket design. Most stud work seems to be aimed at making patterns on the leather, rather than providing reinforcement. I'm also wondering whether other leather products might be a better place to look for high-shear-stress avoidance: saddles, bags etc. I just though someone here might know a bit about the leatherworking side. Maybe I will contact some manufacturers.

In case you're interested, this very short article explains the principle in denim. I would just like to have a good conversation with someone who makes jackets etc, telling me in detail why they place the rivets/studs where they do. I'm actually a scientist by profession, and have an idea for a study based on this as an analogy.

PS. Dinerman: very jealous of your great collection of overcoats. Some really nice pieces in there. Winter livens up the overcoat threads: my favourite!

 

[Seb Lucas]

I don't understand the point of your thread then. You're interested in this for theoretical reasons? Since almost no jackets need or use such manufacturing techniques, I'm not sure what we can offer you. Why not contact a manufacturer who can tell you why they don't use such techniques?

 

[majormajor]

As others have said, this seems to be a question without an answer.

Denim workwear has traditionally used studs for re-inforcement. I know of NO traditional leather jackets that have done the same. Studs on leather jackets are just for decoration.

 

[Tkecks]

No, I've found a few proper biker jackets that use studs in stress points the same way as in denim jeans. These are sometimes referred to as "structural rivets".

I just thought that someone on here might know something about jacket design & function; there's lots of chat about stitching & different styles, and people here seem to really connect to the various manufacturers too. I've just had a hard time digging through the google results to get to some basic information.

Well, I appreciate the replies.