Leather jacket Fur (mouton) collar attachment pattern.

[photo2u]

Updated: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/mouton-collars-and-other-items.106212/#post-2875379

 

[Bonasera]

Mouton coller of another 50s cycle champ which arrived last week.
The basic construction looks same to another one I posted before.

One leather flap come off... leather and mouton conditions are good.

 

[photo2u]

Mouton coller of another 50s cycle champ which arrived last week.
The basic construction looks same to another one I posted before.

One leather flap come off... leather and mouton conditions are good.

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Excellent information. Love the way the mountons are created in the two different Harley Davidson. Thanks so much for taking the time to share your very welcome images.

 

[Al 916]

There seems to be a nice supply of ladies coats on ebay UK with detachable eyebrows.
The good Doctor thinks I am mad *(generally) but she puts up with me....(so far).

I will read through this thread in detail.

Thanks
Al

 

[photo2u]

There seems to be a nice supply of ladies coats on ebay UK with detachable eyebrows.
The good Doctor thinks I am mad *(generally) but she puts up with me....(so far).

I will read through this thread in detail.

Thanks
Al

Please remember is important to download the link to make a uniform graph. This way we can document the particular duplicated collar.

 

[photo2u]

Friends here is a nice mid 40's to early 50's mouton jacket @https://www.thefedoralounge.com/members/jeo.17711/. It is currently on a durable. However, it might not be original to the jacket.

 

[photo2u]

Friends here is a nice mid 40's to early 50's mouton jacket @https://www.thefedoralounge.com/members/jeo.17711/. It is currently on a durable. However, it might not be original to the jacket. View attachment 607579
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Excellent detail images of all vital parts of the collars. I truly thank you for taking the time for contributing to the tread. If is possible, to send images using the graph paper? The graph paper allows for viewers to make an accurate recreation of the original.

Thanks again.

 

[photo2u]

Mouton coller of another 50s cycle champ which arrived last week.
The basic construction looks same to another one I posted before.

One leather flap come off... leather and mouton conditions are good.

View attachment 482233 View attachment 482234 View attachment 482235 View attachment 482237

Master class in how to represent the collar using the graph. Both front and rear on the graph. Photographing the collar on the jacket is sweet. I must say, your cycle champ is the fifth different I have seen. All five have a very different D pocket. Perhaps there are more?

 

[Bonasera]

Master class in how to represent the collar using the graph. Both front and rear on the graph. Photographing the collar on the jacket is sweet. I must say, your cycle champ is the fifth different I have seen. All five have a very different D pocket. Perhaps there are more?

All fur collars I have are the 2 cycle champs and cal.
Do you want me to post the cal one?

Perphaps cycle champs were made
by several makers, so other a bit different shaped D pocket may exsist even if they are same model or era.

 

[photo2u]

All fur collars I have are the 2 cycle champs and cal.
Do you want me to post the cal one?

Perphaps cycle champs were made
by several makers, so other a bit different shaped D pocket may exsist even if they are same model or era.

Currently, I only have 3 original HD d pocket cycle champ types. What makes sense back in the day, production efficiency was vital for the bottom line of the company. For this reason, present day producers like Scott and others use pieces that are uniform regardless of what size the jacket's size is. No company wants to reinvent the wheel of production if the bottom line does not interfere negatively with profits. You can clearly see how some companies began to cut corners with lining and construction methods as the years progressed. I believe the Cycle Champ was a result perhaps jacket sales and a combination of production methods and leather cost. Back in the day, a thin, supple HH was a very desirable feature in leather jackets.

I believe that processing such leather is much more expensive than the thicker and stiffer HH. That is the reason the cycle king was replaced with a simpler and easier to produce cycle champ. My favorite HD jacket is the cycle king, produced in the late 40s. The cycle champ Elvis is a very close second. However, I have seen two different Elvis cycle champs and they are different. I have the one Elvis wore in the famous enthusiast magazine.

Personally, I believe Vanson has been making several variations of the cycle king. I have two different ones. The latest production is great and a good value for the money. However, their second production of cycle king was not as good as their first.

Friend, I truly welcome additional images of your cool jackets!

 

[photo2u]

Friends, These are images of an early production Buco belt. This one came out of a j24. Courtusy of https://www.thefedoralounge.com/members/gily.52240/

These images will in recognizing the authentic product.

Thanks to Gily again.

THE LAST FILE CONTAINS AN IMAGE OF THE BACK SIDE OF THE BUCKLE.

 

[jchance]

As I was cleaning the collar of my CHP leather jacket, I thought of an idea: instead of replacing the leather collar that is destroyed by sweats, it is possible to make replaceable leather collar with snaps, just like the detachable mouton collar without the mouton. It is usually the leather collar that goes first where cracking appears, this ensures that your jacket lasts longer.

 

[photo2u]

As I was cleaning the collar of my CHP leather jacket, I thought of an idea: instead of replacing the leather collar that is destroyed by sweats, it is possible to make replaceable leather collar with snaps, just like the detachable mouton collar without the mouton. It is usually the leather collar that goes first where cracking appears, this ensures that your jacket lasts longer.

There is an old school method that works great. Back in the day they used nice leather or corduroy in the most used area of the collar. Cal was the first one that I have known of. There are many images of this "upgrades" in the old school jackets.

 

[jchance]

There is an old school method that works great. Back in the day they used nice leather or corduroy in the most used area of the collar. Cal was the first one that I have known of. There are many images of this "upgrades" in the old school jackets.

I’ve seen the corduroy piece added on top of the leather collar of Ralphs-Pugh leather jackets, but I’ve always wondered how to clean those corduroy collar? The sweats would get absorbed into the corduroy and the salts upon drying would stay there. If the corduroy collar gets wet enough, the leather collar underneath might still get wet with the migrated salts and there’s no way to clean the leather collar underneath.

Of course, one can also make a detachable corduroy collar with snaps, like the mouton collar without the mouton. That’s pretty easy to wash and reattach.

 

[Modified_last_call]

I came across this NOS Buco mouton collar last year and bought it to share here.
Not sure what model it fits, I'm sure many will know.

 

[photo2u]

Thank you very much for sharing. I have never seen this elegant design. The center snaps allow for a very functional design. I wonder why other companies have not copied it. The mouton quality is also very plush and comfortable. A reverse engineering must be looked into to see which particular model this mouton was designed for.

My take is this mouton was created for the high-end Buco models due to the center rear snap "stealth-look."

As I previously stated, I believe that Buco created the most elaborate and labor-intensive moutons. Followed by Cal leather in a close second. Due to environmental regulations, black mouton is very rarely reproduced with success.

 

[ABCD]

black mouton is very rarely reproduced with success.

I think they're actually midnight blue, not black.

 

[l0fielectronic]

Probably not a great deal of use on this thread but I just came across the collar from a jacket I sold some time ago so thought I would add it. I think it was from a Leather Monkeys Fighter model. This just used three buttons but from what I remember it was fine on a casual jacket.

 

[photo2u]

Probably not a great deal of use on this thread but I just came across the collar from a jacket I sold some time ago so thought I would add it. I think it was from a Leather Monkeys Fighter model. This just used three buttons but from what I remember it was fine on a casual jacket.

Thanks for sharing. Very interesting. It uses buttons to directly attach to the collar.

 

[photo2u]

I think they're actually midnight blue, not black.

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Very interesting. I have seen that blue type before. My comment regarding "black mouton" was for all the makers who used to reproduce them. Not only Buco. I have spoken to the friends at Cal Leathers regarding why they do not tend to produce the black mouton. She told me that it was due to the fact that the new mouton tends to turn green with time. I did some research and asked my friends in Mexico who work in the tanning industry. They share that their production of mouton shades is limited due to environmental practice restrictions.
Regarding this particular Buco jacket with the mouton, do you happen to know if it has the same mouton center rear attachment snap as the NOS shared by Modified_last_call ?