Making mens clothing: where are the vintage mens clothing patterns?

[Creeping Past]

I'm making a linen shirt at the moment. It's going okay. If I can make that, the next step will be a bush jacket, again in linen (Folkwear). If I can do that, I'm going to make a 3-button cotton canvas jacket. I'll post photos if all goes well...

Now, where are all the repro vintage patterns for men's coats/jackets ... 1930s to 1950s styles? I've seen Laughing Moon, which sells patterns for late-19th century trousers and frock coats, and Rusty Zipper, with its 70s flares, etc. Also, Acmenotions has a nice selection. But the specialist vintage patterns sites seem mostly to deal in patterns for leisure shirts and karate pyjamas, etc. ... okay, slight exaggeration. But you know...

Longago.com seems to have a good selection, albeit weighted heavily towards Thee Past.

Does anyone know of other useful sources?

 

[Rittmeister]

The best bet is probably ebay. I have bought some great vintage men's patterns there.

 

[Creeping Past]

And there I was, hoping for a key to the secret pattern room! And so, inevitably, to EBAY...

 

[Rittmeister]

Sorry. Be glad you are not a seller. The fees are a killer. But when you are the only world's largest flea market ....

 

[scotrace]

It is surprising this topic dropped off the radar for so long, because it seems so obvious. There must be patterns out there, right?

The answer, as far as any of us has been able to determine, is no, there aren't. Larger off the rack houses didn't keep them, and very few people made such things at home, because making men's suits, coats, trousers, etc., is tailoring, a whole 'nuther animal from sewing.

This thread is highly recommended.

 

[Charlie Noodles]

I've seen a few threads talking about this. None of those posts seemed to be a definitive answer to a repeated question.

Who is seriously interested in collecting patterns here? Who already does? Does anyone have any skill taking apart clothes for their patterns?

Getting a bit of synergy happening and teaming up would be the best thing for it, I’m sure.

 

[Rachael]

It truly is a pity that all pattern companies focus almost exclusively on women's wear. Even boys' patterns seem to drop off after the toddler sizes. I would agree that this is due to the fact that very few men's items have ever been home sewn, with the exception of shirts and maybe trousers.

one of the good things about menswear is that it doesn't change too drastically over the years. I have a few good suit patterns that I use as slopers, then draft new lapels and collars. Adjusting the hem is fairly simple, and then there is the matter of adding a waist since most men's jackets now just fall straight from the shoulder. For more complex changes, such as back details, it's a matter of tissue draping and trial/error. I buy sheets at the second hand bins to use as muslins, then transfer the pattern on to butcher paper.

Vogue had a jazz era suit pattern about 7 years ago that I use a lot. It is a longer length but that is fairly easy to adjust. And the trousers are a great reference because they are high waisted. Vogue is a great resource point because they detail basic tailoring steps, including pad stitching and using hair canvas. It would also be nice to find a pattern for different shoulder pads; I got spoiled by Oregon Tailor but since they went out of business I have to make my own.

 

[Creeping Past]

A work colleague - she sits about six feet away - has just told me about R D Franks fashion book shop. Who needs the internet? Just ask the people at work...

I've not visited yet, but I'm going to have a look at their books on historical menswear patterns and see what I make of them.

 

[Fletch]

It truly is a pity that all pattern companies focus almost exclusively on women's wear. Even boys' patterns seem to drop off after the toddler sizes. I would agree that this is due to the fact that very few men's items have ever been home sewn, with the exception of shirts and maybe trousers.

Yes...I go on about this too often, but these are the conditions that prevailed:

1. the guild tradition—tailoring was "men's work," with earned status and proprietary knowledge
2. the need for more durable construction due to regular wear
3. the need for closer and more accurate fit

 

[Creeping Past]

1. the guild tradition—tailoring was "men's work," with earned status and proprietary knowledge
2. the need for more durable construction due to regular wear
3. the need for closer and more accurate fit

That explains things nicely.*

Does this mean that the menswear patterns that are available are likely not to match conditions 2 and 3?

Edit:
*This is not to say that Rachael's explanation didn't explain things nicely. It's just that I read two comments in sequence and only deigned to comment on the latter. Apologies for this oversight, Rachael.

 

[Fletch]

It very well may. Most men's patterns are for sportshirts, robes and pajamas: unshaped, unconstructed items not meant to last more than a few seasons.

 

[Honey Doll]

Evadress has men's pants

The evadress site has a pattern for men's pants from 1934 reproduced and available on her website. I believe the price is $15.... here...

http://www.evadress.com/1141.html


Honey Doll

 

[Rachael]

Does this mean that the menswear patterns that are available are likely not to match conditions 2 and 3?

based on most of the menswear patterns produced currently, I would say yes. But there are some companies who produce decent patterns for men, so don't completely give up hope. Just plan on making a muslin of any pattern you buy.

 

[dakotanorth]

Men's patterns?

I'm making a linen shirt at the moment. It's going okay. If I can make that, the next step will be a bush jacket, again in linen (Folkwear). If I can do that, I'm going to make a 3-button cotton canvas jacket. I'll post photos if all goes well...

Now, where are all the repro vintage patterns for men's coats/jackets ... 1930s to 1950s styles? I've seen Laughing Moon, which sells patterns for late-19th century trousers and frock coats, and Rusty Zipper, with its 70s flares, etc. Also, Acmenotions has a nice selection. But the specialist vintage patterns sites seem mostly to deal in patterns for leisure shirts and karate pyjamas, etc. ... okay, slight exaggeration. But you know...

Longago.com seems to have a good selection, albeit weighted heavily towards Thee Past.
Does anyone know of other useful sources?

Where are all the vintage men's patterns?
Locked away in my ammo case. Mwuhahahahaha!!
Seriously, most people already said it- Ebay. Keep checking- usually shirt patterns from the late 40's or early 50's turn up most often. Pants are rare, jackets, rare, once in a great while a "Hollywood" (lesiure) jacket.
Also, don't rule out Antique stores. Every now and then someone might score a handful of patterns and dump them in a basket for $5 each.
Flea markets, trade shows, etc might pay off. Just remember, you will either pay with TIME, or MONEY. Your choice.
The pattern on Eva Dress for men's pants from 1935 is actually a boys pattern, size 30. It could be resized, but just so you know in advance....

 

[Creeping Past]

The evadress site has a pattern for men's pants from 1934 reproduced and available on her website. I believe the price is $15.... here...

http://www.evadress.com/1141.html


Honey Doll

Thanks, HD. That's the sort of thing. I'd have to think twice though, because I'd be resizing (up several sizes, unfortunately) as a beginner.

 

[Honey Doll]

Evadress may resize and is offering multi-size

Thanks, HD. That's the sort of thing. I'd have to think twice though, because I'd be resizing (up several sizes, unfortunately) as a beginner.

CP-- It would be worthwhile to drop Alexandra at Evadress about resizing this pattern or offering it in multisize. She has been taking a number of her patterns which were originally available in only the original size and redrafting them for multisizing. She may be interested in knowing this is a pattern that has demand. She may also be interested in knowing some of the patterns you gentlemen are otherwise interested in.

Otherwise, she may be able to do the redraft for you...it would be worth asking!

Honey Doll

 

[Creeping Past]

CP-- It would be worthwhile to drop Alexandra at Evadress about resizing this pattern or offering it in multisize.

Thanks for the tip. Good idea. I'll see what she says.

As an aside (this is not meant to reflect badly on Evadress at all; she does great work) the "Mens" section on her site sums up the mens vintage pattern situation well.

Viz.

 

[EvaDress]

On vintage men's patterns...

There were so few of them available (relative to ladies' patterns) by pattern companies since the advent of commercial patterns marketed to the domestic dressmaker. It was the norm for men to have their clothing made by a tailor well into the 20th century and the ladies were left to sew for themselves, their children (hence the boy's patterns) and their homes.
I do keep a lookout, nonetheless when seeking original vintage patterns and I have turned up some goodies in shirts ranging from the early 1900's to the 1930's in particular, neck ties AND the 1920's golfing knickers in waist size 38" waist:
www.evadress.com/3906.html

The only men's suit pattern I have come across for the jacket and vest (no trousers) dates to 1954 in an impressive size 42 chest. 10 years ago, when I sewed a dress suit for my husband, I re-worked this pattern to match the vest and jacket I had from the page of a 1935 men's dressing catalogue.
I am in the process of re-vamping my site just now-I promise the men's catagory will improve, but I have to respond with the ladies' pages first due to demand and honestly, my ability to stock those styles much better than the more rare ones for men, no offense taken ;o)!

P.S. I will grade that 1930's trouser pattern I have and it will be ready this fall. Not yet sure what waist size I can successfully take it up to yet, but should be well above the original's 30"...

 

[renor27]

men's patterns

Like you am always looking for patterns, though I am looking for patterns from the teens and early 1920's. Shirts are easy the ones from before the war were still being warn I can find a few patterns for them.
I have found that E-Bay has had some . One of the most interesting pattern I got was for a early 1920's summer union suit ( both arms and legs are short ) This pattern is now in the hands of a seamstress and hopefully I will be seeing 6 pair some time this summer.
As for the folkswear patterns if you look @ the pants that go with the Brush jacket, remove the pocket on the front of the leg, you end up with a nice early 1930's pants that you would have been able to buy in say India or in eastern/southern Africa. Am having a few pairs made will be my every day pants also some shorts in the same style need to stay cool in the Nv desert.
Another way to get patterns is to buy cloths that can not be warn and take them apart my great grandmother did this in the teens, was a way to copy cloths.
If you really want to get a patterns find some one who can make them from photos. Then all you need to do is get a picture of what you want.
hope this helps

 

[Minerva]

I'm sure some must exist somewhere. I know that in one branch of my family, it was expected that the women would be sewing all the clothes for their entire families, including the men. As I heard it, one new wife was disconcerted when her mother-in-law informed her that this was now her job, and at the rate the fellow in question wore through his clothes, the mother-in-law was glad that it was no longer her job to keep him clothed.

This was from 1890s through at least the 1940s, for the record.