My New Three-Piece

[oddlots]

Good afternoon, ladies and gents.

Despite what the thread title may say, this suit isn't exactly "new", I've had it since August (it was purchased for my wedding) and has been hanging around the house since then, waiting for me to snap these photos.

Though I'm pleased with the color, lining, and general style of the suit, it has come with a few issues related to fit that I'm not too pleased with. The suit as you see it now has gone through one round of quick 'n' dirty alterations with a local tailor (which is how I discovered I have a dropped shoulder), but we were limited in what we had time to do before the wedding.

Though the suit (miraculously) looked pretty darned good the day of my wedding, it hasn't looked as good since. I'd love to hear your constructive comments on what could be altered to "fix" this one, and what changes need to be made to have a better fitting (and overall more aesthetically pleasing) suit next time.

Believe it or not, even WITH the problems, this suit fits me better than any I've owned before (I'm a bit hard to fit).

I apologize if this sort of thread isn't Kosher, but I know I can rely on the posters at The Fedora Lounge to tell it to me straight, without the snarkiness certain other sites may have!

Thanks in advance!

 

[KeyGrip]

Nice tie!

 

[Slim Portly]

Great suit, great lining. I would have gone for more "contrasty" braces, but that's just me. And yes, great tie.

 

[CharlestonBows]

Was this an off the peg suit?

 

[HarpPlayerGene]

Hey, oddlots, nice to meet you - sort of (what are you in the witness protection program? ) Anyway, I'm not an expert but generally the suit seems to fit well in the shoulders, sleeve length and trouser length. It may be (and I am not being snarky) that it was snugged up too much around the middle by the tailor or that you've added a little 'table muscle' since the wedding and that tightness when buttoned is what's causing the puckering in at the back which throws off the profile. You might well be able to remedy that. Otherwise a very cool suit.

 

[John in Covina]

Sometimes the tailor can put a bit of padding material in the dropped shoulder to even you out.

You need to remember to tug the base of the jacket down in the back and front to get it to lay a little better. It is something I do, and can suggest to you as we are built similarly. Give it a tug and see if you can get some pix again.

If it still puckers around the middle, you may need to have it let out a tad.

(It is also a problem with the SUPER woolens, they are so light they don't hang properly under their own weight and you don't get the drape you would from the older heavy fabrics. If you read about vintage suits in this section you'll learn about fabrics and construction as well as details that the older suits have but modern suits have lost. There is a reason those guys looked so good in their suits in the movies of the 30's & 40's. Few places make'em like they used to and we are fortunate to have some related to the Lounge that do. Matt Deckard, Senator Jack and Indy Magnoli have some experiences they have shared with the Loungers on suits and have taken the next step to making suits that have the style of the past.)

Blessings on your wife and you.

 

[oddlots]

KeyGrip and Slim Portly: Thanks for the compliments. The braces are actually a larger contrast in person (they're pink and green striped Albert Thurstons), but they certainly look washed out in the photo!

Charleston Bows: I don't want to say who made it yet (especially as I don't think most of this was their fault), but no, it was not OTR.

HarpPlayerGene: I appreciate the insight. I've actually lost weight since the wedding (it was pulling at the wedding, but I was able to keep it some what decent by constant adjustments) The alterations by my tailor did not include taking anything in. The alterations were: letting out the seat of the trousers to relieve a "roll" of fabric that was created, letting out the jacket around the hips, and temporarily tacking up the sleeve length to account for my different arm lengths and make it wearable until I can have them taken up from the shoulder. Basically, the problems that are present in the suit now were somewhat magnified prior to the alterations.

Thanks to everyone who has replied so far. I appreciate the compliments and look forward to hearing some ideas on what measurements can be changed and even what stylistic changes could be made to make the next suit a better one. I have some ideas of my own, as well as some sketches, but I'd like to save those until more posters have weighed in.

EDIT: Sorry for missing your response earlier, John in Covina! Thank you, first of all, for the blessings. We appreciate such sentiment. You're correct about padding out the drop shoulder. I had the option upon ordering this suit to have the suit made for a dropped shoulder, but I didn't realize at the time that I was included in such category! The shoulders are TREMENDOUSLY padded right now, and I plan to have a bit of the excess removed from both shoulders. Perhaps my alterations tailor could shape the dropped side a bit to accommodate.

Unfortunately, these pictures are the result of both myself and my wife tugging, pulling, adjusting, and cajoling every inch of this suit into the position that it's in! Without our assistance, the vents fly open, the pants "catch" and stay about 1-2" above the shoes, and the back of the jacket bunches up, choosing to rest on top of my posterior!

Also, in looking over this thread, I've started to consider that perhaps I have an issue with posture that could be further affecting the fit. Would any of you consider this to be a valid observation?

 

[Max Flash]

Also, in looking over this thread, I've started to consider that perhaps I have an issue with posture that could be further affecting the fit. Would any of you consider this to be a valid observation?

A good bespoke tailor should take posture into account. I have a stoop and rounded shoulders, but my jacket collars and waistcoats fit perfectly flush with my shirt collar.

I would suggest that the jacket needs to be let out a bit. Also consider wearing the jacket open or only fastened with one button. I note that the "cinch" in the back of the jacket is in line with the lower button on the front, which might be pulling the jacket in too tight at the back.

 

[oddlots]

A good bespoke tailor should take posture into account. I have a stoop and rounded shoulders, but my jacket collars and waistcoats fit perfectly flush with my shirt collar.

I would suggest that the jacket needs to be let out a bit. Also consider wearing the jacket open or only fastened with one button. I note that the "cinch" in the back of the jacket is in line with the lower button on the front, which might be pulling the jacket in too tight at the back.

Thank you for weighing in on this. After my wife shot the pictures, I noticed that perhaps it would look better with only the middle button fastened, but I lost a suspender button right after these pictures, and have not yet been able to take a new set!

I'm going to be taking the whole suit to my alterations tailor soon to get the sleeves properly adjusted, try to alter the shoulders, and hopefully let out the body of the coat.

I will say that I'd LOVE to have my suits made by a true bespoke tailor, but at this point in life many off the rack suits are out of my price range, let alone the work of a true bespoke artisan. It's certainly a goal I aspire to in the near future! I do, however, have the option to account for various postures (from a set list) with the outfit that produced this suit.

 

[Max Flash]

I will say that I'd LOVE to have my suits made by a true bespoke tailor, but at this point in life many off the rack suits are out of my price range, let alone the work of a true bespoke artisan. It's certainly a goal I aspire to in the near future! I do, however, have the option to account for various postures (from a set list) with the outfit that produced this suit.

I would have thought a tailor could address some of the issues without needing to be a bespoke artisan, as you say.

I have the advantage of being able to access tailors in Eastern lands - hence can get bespoke suits for the same price as good quality OTR in the UK. Otherwise, I would never be able to afford them either!

 

[Wolfmanjack]

Oddlots, bear in mind that it is always perfectly acceptable to wear the jacket of a 3-piece suit unbuttoned, with the waistcoat fully exposed. Indeed, in the era when pocket watches with elaborate chains were worn in the waistcoat, men never buttoned their jackets over their waistcoats.

Try wearing the jacket unbuttoned and I think you will find that everything feels much more comfortable and you will look much more relaxed and at ease. The jacket will hang straight in the back and it will stay that way without fussing with it.

 

[HarpPlayerGene]

Max, there's 'tailoring', then there's 'made-to-measure', then there's 'bespoke'. I think oddlots may be aware of the true definitions and differences among the terms. Tailoring is within most of our budgets of time and money. Bespoke clothing is most often the preserve of royalty, NBA stars and some red carpet A-listers these days.

 

[Max Flash]

Max, there's 'tailoring', then there's 'made-to-measure', then there's 'bespoke'. I think oddlots may be aware of the true definitions and differences among the terms. Tailoring is within most of our budgets of time and money. Bespoke clothing is most often the preserve of royalty, NBA stars and some red carpet A-listers these days.

Thank you Gene. I am well aware of the differences. I was merely trying to be helpful in suggesting that a tailor could address some of the issues with Oddlots' jacket without having to resort to particularly pricey methods. And for the record, in some parts of the world it is still possible to have a bespoke suit made without being "royalty, NBA stars [or] red carpet A-listers".

Thanks for the lecture though.

 

[oddlots]

Gene and Max: You're both correct. Alterations tailoring is within my budget, as is Made to Measure/Custom farmed out to another country. When I mentioned tailoring as beyond my price range, I was, in fact, referring to "true" bespoke, complete with in-person measuring, fitting stages, etc.

Wolfman Jack: Thank you for your input. I have, actually, taken to wearing the jacket open in the style of many corpulent industrialists of the turn of the century. It looks much better, and I've been trying to wear it that way for the past few months. Unfortunately, I would like to try a double breasted or even a regular two-piece and I want to perfect the silhouette for when I can no longer leave the coat open.

 

[Wolfmanjack]

Wolfman Jack: Thank you for your input. I have, actually, taken to wearing the jacket open in the style of many corpulent industrialists of the turn of the century. It looks much better, and I've been trying to wear it that way for the past few months. Unfortunately, I would like to try a double breasted or even a regular two-piece and I want to perfect the silhouette for when I can no longer leave the coat open.

Oddlots, If you want to try to make off-the-rack work for you, double-breasted may be the way to go. First, I'd go with a "portly" cut; that will give you a few extra inches in the waist and skirt of the jacket. Also, there may be a bit of extra fabric in the waist darts and side seams; that will allow the tailor to give you another couple of inches. Finally, the tailor can let out the waist and skirt by reducing the overlap at the front of the DB; this involves little more than moving around the buttons.

Opinions vary on this, but I think a double-breasted suit (especially a 6/1, i.e., 6 buttons with only the bottom row buttoning) is especially flattering on stout men like you and me. That long, straight diagonal lapel line from the left shoulder to just below the waist on the right has a remarkably slimming effect. In addition, that long diagonal line just might help balance-out your "drop shoulder" problem.

One final caveat, don't be lured into the world of suit "separates." Sure, you can get a jacket in size 46 regular that fits well in the chest and shoulders, and you can get a "separate" pair of trousers that fit your size 44 waist, but you won't be able to button the jacket and there won't be enough surplus fabric to let out the waist sufficiently.

 

[JimInSoCalif]

Oddlots, bear in mind that it is always perfectly acceptable to wear the jacket of a 3-piece suit unbuttoned, with the waistcoat fully exposed. Indeed, in the era when pocket watches with elaborate chains were worn in the waistcoat, men never buttoned their jackets over their waistcoats.

Try wearing the jacket unbuttoned and I think you will find that everything feels much more comfortable and you will look much more relaxed and at ease. The jacket will hang straight in the back and it will stay that way without fussing with it.

I think you are spot on. I have a habit of leaving my suit coat unbottoned which I think does not look the best, so the last three suits I have had made were three piece and when I am wearing the vest I usually leave the jacket unbuttoned which I think looks okay. It is comfortable too. A pocket watch might be a bit of an affection, but I think they are fun. I can't find a vintage one within my budget, so I bought a new quartz one at Amazon - they have a number of pocket watches under $30.00.

Cheers, Jim.

 

[HarpPlayerGene]

...I was, in fact, referring to "true" bespoke,...

I figured. It has become one of those things like saying 'trench coat' for any top coat or rain coat.

"Corpulent" - great word.

I think you'd look aces in a double-breasted suit!!

 

[Max Flash]

I figured. It has become one of those things like saying 'trench coat' for any top coat or rain coat.

Gene

You're missing my point. When I was referring to how a bespoke tailor can take into account personal posture defects (such as mine that I described) I was referring to "true bespoke" and not to made-to-measure. However, I was not suggesting that Oddlots should resort to this, but I still think an alterations tailor should be able to address SOME of the issues Oddlots is having with his jacket without this having to be a particularly expensive exercise.

 

[HarpPlayerGene]

^
I gotcha' man. Not tryin' to turn something fun into something stressful. I mean this in good spirit. It's knowledgeable people like you from whom I learn and I'd be foolish to alienate myself. Besides, oddlights is right in that you're right. Bygones?

 

[Max Flash]

^
I gotcha' man. Not tryin' to turn something fun into something stressful. I mean this in good spirit. It's knowledgeable people like you from whom I learn and I'd be foolish to alienate myself. Besides, oddlights is right in that you're right. Bygones?

Of course - I'm sorry if this discussion has become a bit too serious for the wrong reasons! I think we were just talking at cross-purposes. I don't profess to be an expert on any of this stuff - the beauty of the Lounge is that everyone can share in each others' experiences!

It's the clothes (and hats) that are the important thing after all!