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New forum member brand (Rugged West)

Messages
10,547
Looks great!

I would take the stiff leather as a benefit in terms of longevity (and the patina-potential going with it).
For manual break-in just roll the whole jacket up repeatedly or bunch it up at will.

As to the buttons: stiff/thick leather and buttons are really a match made in hell. No solution other than just easing up the wholes by usage (you can try to gently stretch by putting a bottleneck in them, but I’d be wary to overdoe it and end up with a disfunctionally large hole).

I use a screwdriver or similar tool to break in the hide around the holes. Manually roll around the button hole. Leave them safely hanging within the holes sometimes. Less concern with overdoing it, which is always a concern for me. Doesn’t take too long.
 

TartuWolf

One Too Many
Messages
1,103
Location
Tartu, Estonia
-10% sale going on currently:
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Seriously considering that type 1 in thick brown pullup bison.
Or a jacket for my wife as rugged west specialize in female jackets.
 

Rub-positive-8063

New in Town
Messages
8
-10% sale going on currently:
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Seriously considering that type 1 in thick brown pullup bison.
Or a jacket for my wife as rugged west specialize in female jackets.
That bison hide looks sweet. If I’m being honest, I’m a wee bit sad the one I just got (pics last week here) isn’t in that color.

On a side note, in an effort to break it in, I wore it going out last Friday and Saturday and got lots of compliments
 

discodaft

New in Town
Messages
30
Location
ATL

Love the gold hardware on this, and the leather quality looks to punch above its weight. Honestly, a d-pocket design at this price point with the sign off from this community... fantastic combination.

One thing I wanted to mention on the business side related to the amount of custom measurements requested. Being that this is a new business and was likely found by the enthusiast community first, I'm not surprised at all that the majority of customers were requesting custom.
Now, after a few months of IG adverts or more "every person" exposure, I'd expect those requests to taper off (especially if the custom-ability isn't front and center on the product page.)
 

Rub-positive-8063

New in Town
Messages
8
Love the gold hardware on this, and the leather quality looks to punch above its weight. Honestly, a d-pocket design at this price point with the sign off from this community... fantastic combination.

One thing I wanted to mention on the business side related to the amount of custom measurements requested. Being that this is a new business and was likely found by the enthusiast community first, I'm not surprised at all that the majority of customers were requesting custom.
Now, after a few months of IG adverts or more "every person" exposure, I'd expect those requests to taper off (especially if the custom-ability isn't front and center on the product page.)
Mine was “custom,” in that she wasn’t yet offering anything in brown, and I was open to a Type 1, which she was also not yet offering. I basically funded her R & D. There was nothing “custom” to size, cut, features, lining, thickness, hardware, etc. to my order.
 

discodaft

New in Town
Messages
30
Location
ATL
*shrug* alrighty! Responding to the owner's quote =)

"So far, the majority of customers have asked for jackets to be made in custom measurements."
 

KBlake

One Too Many
Messages
1,714
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My bison type 1 came in yesterday so I’ll post some photos and a quick review here.

The leather is similar to cxl in weight and character. It shows every minor abrasion, which gives it instant character and it will develop an amazing patina over time. The leather is extremely robust but it has the most luxurious hand feel. It’s hard to describe. The color is a lovely mahogany and has amazing depth and richness to it.

The Bison seems to be the premier leather offering at RW but the softer steer is suitable for customers who don’t want a stiff leather that requires breaking in. The suede looks excellent as well.

What really made an impression is the pattern. The sleeve cap height is similar to the pattern of Regius’ jackets. This creates a vintage shape that is very comfortable and allows for a great range of movement. It also creates a broad shouldered appearance that is very flattering. As with my Regius jacket, this creates a bit of extra material for some wearers (I.e., me) at the back of each arm pit. I’ve included a side photo of my Regius so you can compare the angle of the sleeve cap.

I have a sense that the price point of RW jackets will go up so I suggest you place your orders before that happens.
 

Leilah Wilde

New in Town
Messages
42
View attachment 618838 View attachment 618839 View attachment 618840 View attachment 618841 View attachment 618842 View attachment 618843 My bison type 1 came in yesterday so I’ll post some photos and a quick review here.

The leather is similar to cxl in weight and character. It shows every minor abrasion, which gives it instant character and it will develop an amazing patina over time. The leather is extremely robust but it has the most luxurious hand feel. It’s hard to describe. The color is a lovely mahogany and has amazing depth and richness to it.

The Bison seems to be the premier leather offering at RW but the softer steer is suitable for customers who don’t want a stiff leather that requires breaking in. The suede looks excellent as well.

What really made an impression is the pattern. The sleeve cap height is similar to the pattern of Regius’ jackets. This creates a vintage shape that is very comfortable and allows for a great range of movement. It also creates a broad shouldered appearance that is very flattering. As with my Regius jacket, this creates a bit of extra material for some wearers (I.e., me) at the back of each arm pit. I’ve included a side photo of my Regius so you can compare the angle of the sleeve cap.

I have a sense that the price point of RW jackets will go up so I suggest you place your orders before that happens.

A great read, thanks @KBlake
I’m really chuffed that I’ve nailed the fit - it looks fantastic on you.
 

TartuWolf

One Too Many
Messages
1,103
Location
Tartu, Estonia
@KBlake
Looks awesome and seems to fit you pretty damn well!
Ordered this jacket for my wife (Rugged West specializes in offering jackets for women after all).
Will keep it if the stock works out. If not - send it back and upgrade to a custom for her or for me instead (I hope haha).
Love some closeups of the leather. You mentioned it's similar to CXL. From the photos it seems to be a bit drier than CXL? And a bit more matte?
How the buttoning / unbuttoning with such thick leather?
What lining did you get?
Leilah also mentioned that she plans to cut down on the custom orders and focus on stock so I'd also suggest using the opportunity while it's still there.
 

Leilah Wilde

New in Town
Messages
42
Hello all,
It’s been a while. I exhibited at the Bike Shed Moto Show in London the weekend before last, and the lead up to it and aftermath was total chaos. Sleep? Who needs sleep?

A few updates:

  1. I’ve been working with the tannery to develop both the black and brown bison. The black will come in two finishes - smooth and matte, and grainy with a nice shine. I’d like to focus on making all stock designs/sizes (sans the roughout) out of this hide going forward. Black and two tone Steerhide will still be available for those who prefer a softer leather that’s still nice and weighty but comfortable to wear straight out of the box, however this will have to be requested.
  2. During the exhibition, I had a few leather jacket makers/exhibitors approach the stand, briefly examine the jackets, feel the hide, check the price tag and then - in the kindest way possible - suggest that I was completely insane for pricing them so low.
  3. I’m going to try to limit custom orders, or at the very least, have some sort of waitlist (8-10 weeks lead time for now). I’m also in the process of arranging for the custom sized jackets to be made in London. It is, of course, more expensive but easier/more efficient for me as I can be totally hands on with the patterns and complete all the finishing touches myself. With all of this taken into consideration, overall prices will likely increase soon (not too drastically). I said from the very beginning that I wanted RW jackets to be a high quality, affordable alternative to high end brands. I stand by that. That won’t change.
  4. I’ve had some great conversations with customers who I hope I can now call friends. The general consensus is that “less is more”. So instead of cranking out new designs every month (I get a little trigger happy with my pencil and sketchpad), I’m going to focus on perfecting the models I currently have. There will be some tweaks in the designs but they’re going to look fantastic. Hope you like ‘em.

If anyone wants to punish themselves further and hear me rabbit on about anything else in more detail, feel free to drop me an email ;)

All the best,
Leilah
 

Cortexas

Familiar Face
Messages
61
Location
Austin, TX
I just received my rugged rider jacket from Rugged West. It’s based on the Buco J – 24. I have to say I am thoroughly impressed. The stitching and construction quality punch well above their weight class. The cow height is thick yet very supple and already has tons of grain and character. It also seems that all the panels are very consistent in character, not in a printed grain kind of way rather a lot of skill went into matching them. It was comfortable from the first time I put it on and requires almost no break in period. The pattern is totally on point too. I got one of the last version one models of this jacket, so I’m sure they will only improve from here. I should note I almost always wear a medium, but I ordered a small based on the sizing guide. I would say this fit is absolutely perfect for my frame.
 

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KBlake

One Too Many
Messages
1,714
I just received my rugged rider jacket from Rugged West. It’s based on the Buco J – 24. I have to say I am thoroughly impressed. The stitching and construction quality punch well above their weight class. The cow height is thick yet very supple and already has tons of grain and character. It also seems that all the panels are very consistent in character, not in a printed grain kind of way rather a lot of skill went into matching them. It was comfortable from the first time I put it on and requires almost no break in period. The pattern is totally on point too. I got one of the last version one models of this jacket, so I’m sure they will only improve from here. I should note I almost always wear a medium, but I ordered a small based on the sizing guide. I would say this fit is absolutely perfect for my frame.
Perfect fit! Your jacket looks amazing enjoy it.
 

TartuWolf

One Too Many
Messages
1,103
Location
Tartu, Estonia
I just received my rugged rider jacket from Rugged West. It’s based on the Buco J – 24. I have to say I am thoroughly impressed. The stitching and construction quality punch well above their weight class. The cow height is thick yet very supple and already has tons of grain and character. It also seems that all the panels are very consistent in character, not in a printed grain kind of way rather a lot of skill went into matching them. It was comfortable from the first time I put it on and requires almost no break in period. The pattern is totally on point too. I got one of the last version one models of this jacket, so I’m sure they will only improve from here. I should note I almost always wear a medium, but I ordered a small based on the sizing guide. I would say this fit is absolutely perfect for my frame.
That looks fantastic, especially from the back!
 

TartuWolf

One Too Many
Messages
1,103
Location
Tartu, Estonia
Okay folks, take 1 of trying to get a proper leather jacket for my wife.
Type 1 from RW just dropped in. I think RW and Leilah did a great job with! Wife is super happy about it overall.
Adding some fit pics.
Please share your thoughts on the fit!

Current plan is to send back this stock jacket and upgrade to custom.
What I think about the fit:
- Chest and upper back seem pretty spot on, both in terms of looks and mobility. Sleeve length and shoulder width seem very good as well.
- Body length is too short, at least for my taste, especially the front. Should be 1-2" longer. She definitely has some Anterior Pelvic Tilt going to as well. I think some front drop would help with that. Type 1 with 0.5" front drop? Abomination?
- Needs more taper in the waist, too much loose material in the lower back at the moment. Right now it's ~17.75. I'd reduce that to ~16.5" or something like that and then flare it back out at the bottom hem (especially if we got for longer body) to ~17.25-17.5".

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Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,204
- Body length is too short, at least for my taste, especially the front. Should be 1-2" longer.
A type I (and type II) should be short and boxy. As-is it's already longer than the original. Making it even longer will not look good.
Type 1 with 0.5" front drop? Abomination?
Yes
- Needs more taper in the waist, too much loose material in the lower back at the moment. Right now it's ~17.75. I'd reduce that to ~16.5" or something like that and then flare it back out at the bottom hem (especially if we got for longer body) to ~17.25-17.5".
Again, I think it looks good as-is. Altering a boxy design into a V shape will look off imo. If your wife wants a V shaped jacket then a type III would be a better choice.
 

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