JJ hats will steam your hat and change your ribbon if they have any in their pre-sewn stock.
From my experience Barbisio made very high quality hats (detailed hand work, fine felt + finishes, fine sweatbands / liners / ribbons) into the mid to late 1970s same with Panizza (the old factory). Borsalino made very high quality hats up to the early 1980s before the family sold the business and the old factory closed. The Italian hat companies in general made very high quality hats for the longest time period. P. & C. Habig out of Vienna also made high quality hats into the late 1970s early 1980s. You see a drop off (less detailed hand work) in the German hat companies like Mayser, Hückel, Peschel and Wegener in the late 1960s early 1970s.
I don't know when that might have been. To me, out here on the Left Coast, a wider brim bespeaks a working hat. Perhaps I've been around too many Westerns or something but a stingy brim, IMO, is affected. I mean, if it won't keep the sun out of your eyes, why are you wearing a hat in the first place? So, yeah, stingies are for dandies.
On the streets you will see those who affect a dandy look wearing stingy brims.
Then again, non-dandies wear 'em too so go figure..
JJ doesn't only do pre-sewn ribbons. They will work with a length of ribbon if they have it in stock or you bring it in -- I've done just that.
Count your lucky stars that you don't have those skinny hipster types with their skinny black jeans, tats, T-shirts, shades, tiny goatees, and super stingy brim straws. NYC is swarming with them.
(Actually, they're not so bad, but they just look pretty . . . what can I say. . . feckless?)
Totally agree: I simplified the whole situation. It's a shame that the hattery art in Italy drop down to almost nothing. Once I was in the Borsalino Museum and in the factory sites of some monza's hatter (the city ancient nickname was "City of hatters")...what a shame..what really a shame.