Photos of cool jackets owned by others (non-brand specific)

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Superfluous, Mar 14, 2017.

  1. Blackadder

    Blackadder Call Me a Cab

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    I went back and discovered that this discussion also started with the "price" issue. So in interest of disclosure, each but one of my RM, RC and FW jackets even the brand new/unworn ones cost me around the same as a LL or Aero would at the time. For example, my brand new RM Buco J-100 padded and JH-1 cost me less than USD 900 each. Each of my unworn RC A-2 costs around 600-700 quid. There is no import duties or sales tax where I live so if I were to buy a jacket from say Lewis Leather, Eastman or Aero, I would be paying UK VAT in stead.
     
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  2. dudewuttheheck

    dudewuttheheck Call Me a Cab

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    Well, the shorter version of it is that I do think there are patterns that are just better in certain ways than others. I know there is a degree of subjectivity there, but I really do think that some patterns are super flattering on certain body types, some that look pretty darn good on almost everyone, and some that just don't really look fantastic on ANYONE, even if they do fit. @Marc mndt kind of already said what I wanted to at least in part.

    In my view, there is a difference between something that technically fits and something that is actually truly flattering and actually looks great on a person. I would assume that in the world of bespoke suitmaking, this may be one in the same, but we wear casual clothing so I think most of us are a bit more forgiving in terms of what makes a "perfect" fit. In fact, I don't think I've ever owned a leather jacket that actually fits me perfectly, and yes that includes all my Freewheelers jackets.

    There are certain brands that I won't name that I think I have never seen a truly flattering or great fit from in all of the photos that I have seen or if I have, it is extremely rare. There are other certain brands that offer patterns that are hard to fit into for some people, but fit absolutely incredibly well when they do fit someone and are highly flattering. Then there are jackets that tend to be quite versatile and look really good on almost anyone that wears them, even if they don't actually fit amazingly well.

    I know it seems like I only praise Freewheelers, but I think Thedi jackets tend to be pretty universally good looking on most people. I actually cannot think of a truly bad looking Thedi on anyone on this forum. I have not experienced a Thedi myself, but from my perspective they seem to know what they're doing with their patterns. Sure, the models will wear the stock jackets too short, but in terms of members here on the forum, the jackets tend to look pretty fantastic on everyone.

    The RMC Buco J-24 and most Flat Head jackets are great examples of fantastic patterns that are super flattering on people that they actually fit. Both have slim chests and when I was heavier, I looked terrible in these jackets. However, they look seriously incredible on people that they fit.

    Freewheelers has a bit of both. They have some like the La Brea, which is not an easy fit, but flatters everyone that can fit into it. Some other brand just made a similar jacket and looks terrible even on the slim models that wear it. To me it is an objectively worse pattern than the Freewheelers version. Someone also mentioned the comparison of the FW Pasadena I showed, and another version from some other Japanese brand. Again, that jacket looks out of proportion and too long with the pocket not scaled up to fit the pattern and again, I think the FW pattern just straight up looks better. I am certain that there are many more examples of this, but I have more experience with FW and own more of their jackets and therefore I have more examples in regard to them.

    They also have patterns that are pretty flattering on a lot of people. The Mulholland seems to do this well. As I mentioned, even when I was way too small for my size 42 jackets, people even on this very forum told me that they still looked good on me. It's pretty rare for jackets that are obviously too big to look decent on someone, especially someone as short as me. Someone else mentioned the Brakeman and I agree this tends to look pretty great on a lot of people, even if the technical fit is not perfect.

    In this case, I don't want to name any of the makers that I think make generally unflattering patterns but there are quite a few. There are plenty of jackets that don't fit me that I think are fantastic patterns. I actually don't really fit into a brakeman jacket well, nor do I fit an RMC A-1, RMC J-24, Flat Head Jackets (at least in the past), but I still think they are fantastic patterns. I've never owned a Thedi and I think they do a great job with this as well. Himel's Kensington is another example of this. I have tried on that jacket and it doesn't work for me, but it looks incredible on the people that it works for so I think that's a beautiful design and pattern. Also, keep in mind that I thought FW jackets were amazing and that they looked flattering on people before I even liked them and owned any myself. I'm just much more vocal about it now.

    This is a non-technical explanation and obviously, me saying that jackets look "good" on people is subjective in itself, but at the same time, I also see the general consensus from people on the forum about how jackets look on people so I am taking that into account as well.

    Someone mentioned that I had to size up and shorten the sleeves on two of my FW jackets. To me, this only further proves how good the patterns are. They are not sized for my body type at all. I am NOT the ideal body type for any Freewheelers jackets and yet out of the many dozens of leather jackets that I have owned and at least tried on, I think they are some of my best fitting, with only my new RMC and new FW bullhide jacket being better, mostly because of body and sleeve length. I am actually the ideal person for that RMC jacket and even then, the jacket is more restrictive in movement than my FW are even when the measurements are smaller on the FW.

    I'm not really trying to convince anyone of my line of thinking here by the way. I expect most people to disagree, but if my thoughts were asked for on this, I figured I would share them. I have a pretty good amount more that I could say about this too, but that would get into my even more controversial views on jackets haha :D


    ... and yes, this is actually the shorter version. :p

    @sweetfights no this is a totally different jacket. The Mulholland exists and is in production and as far as I know, is not an exact copy of an original vintage jacket so I personally would not be ok with anyone making a copy of it for me. There is also a Mulholland on sale in brown that I could probably fit into. If my Mushman's jacket ever sells I may be able to grab that one.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2021
  3. navetsea

    navetsea I'll Lock Up

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    often time boxy looking jacket look best on most people as long as the element on the jacket have good proportion to look at, simple boxy denim jacket never fails as long as the pocket size and placement is ideal. the more shaped the body the less it would fit to everyone.

    if I have to choose I would go with jacket's own proportion that speaks louder than how personal it should fit me. I can personally look beyond sleeve length or body length if the jacket itself and it's elements looks cool and well proportioned.

    but if we go custom fit, then not only the sleeve length or body length is added or reduced, but then a good maker should have sensitivity to reposition or resize other elements on the jacket to keep the same cool proportion, if you have a longer torso need a longer jacket for example then the chest pocket should also moved down in proportion, or if you want a shorter body on your D pocket jacket, I hope the maker resize or remodel the D shape to fit a shorter jacket and if the D pocket is remodeled then the coin pocket probably need to be resized as well otherwise the design is jacked, I value those sensitivity more in a maker.
     
  4. sweetfights

    sweetfights Call Me a Cab

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    Thank you for that considerate reply.

    I especially relate to the bespoke suit analogy.

    And I think it is apparent for most of us who have been in this hobby that certain manufacturers styles/patterns do favor a broader spectrum of body types. And there are truly some makers design's that are not generally flattering.

    Beauty is in the eye of the beholder yet there are certain universal inherently appreciated dimension that are very pleasing; think the relative larger eyes of infants or the attraction to the female waist to hip ratio of .67 to .80 or Michelangelo's sculpture of David.
     
  5. 'For me', I have found two brands of leather jackets that have blown all other's away...'For me'. No. 1 Vanson's dedicated MC jackets have a sleeve construction/pattern where the sleeves don't ride up when on the Harley. So more comfortable while riding. No. 2 Thedi with a little added sleeve length slips on an falls in place 'on me'. Must be the pattern. I like the style and the comfort. Comfort being paramount. After going through many brands throughout the last ten years or so, I finally found a home.
    20180416_182436.jpg 20191125_145526.jpg
     
  6. dudewuttheheck

    dudewuttheheck Call Me a Cab

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    @navetsea I agree with the importance of the proportion of the jacket as well. That is certainly an important part of design. When a jacket is adjusted in any way, the other elements of the jackets need to be adjusted along with it. Pockets need to be raised or lowered and pocket sizes need to be adjusted in some cases as well, especially with D pockets.

    @sweetfights yes exactly there are certain things that are nearly universally accepted or true as you mentioned.

    @HoosierDaddy yes your Thedi jackets are some of the first ones I think of when I think of how great their patterns are. I think yours fit you great and are very flattering as well. In fact, as unique as that jacket is, I've seen quite a few different people of different body types wear it and I think it looks at least pretty good on everyone and really great on others. That Vanson fits you well too I think.
     
  7. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt Call Me a Cab

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    I know I've posted this before. But this is a very cool jacket. Great color and design.
    7A6B6B45-2897-42D3-8F40-3E9A546BDC45.jpeg
     
  8. Riu

    Riu Practically Family

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    Saw a similar jacket and thought it looks great, love those pockets.
     
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  9. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt Call Me a Cab

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    Super cool bates. The guy wearing it looks a bit like @Monitor hehe
    7CF78AF6-5AA4-4A7D-983F-7726F1968696.jpeg E85CB161-CAF4-483B-9C83-315CBF944D8A.jpeg E863A5B5-24C2-4810-81D4-65BA1D8F9974.jpeg
     
  10. Monitor

    Monitor

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  11. jonbuilder

    jonbuilder Call Me a Cab

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    I agree and might add if I feel comfortable wearing the jacket it's all good
     
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  12. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    When looking at makers, I think you need to see beyond just a jacket’s design (style). You are also purchasing the creators ethos or vision if you will. Greg has a style in mind when he makes a jacket (trim and shorter). Thedi definitely flaunts his personal tastes in fit on his site. Aero has it’s view of a good fit, and so does Shawn...all different, but all viable.
    When I worked with John (GW) on my jacket, he kept mentioning the 30’s/40’s aesthetic of upside-down triangle- wider shoulders tapering down to the waist- as looking “masculine.”
    I think you should match the maker to the look you want to get the right synergy. It doesn’t go as easily if you are constantly fighting to force them to make a jacket which doesn’t fit the creators idea of a good looking/fitting piece.

    @JCSD and I are both SoCal photographers, but if you asked us to shoot the same assignment (even the same person) the pictures would end up looking very different. Same goes for jackets.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2021
  13. willyto

    willyto One Too Many

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    That is exactly what you do when going bespoke in Tailoring. You don't go to an Italian tailor and ask for a structured drape suit and you don't go to Savile Row and ask for a Neapolitan suit with spalla camicia.

    Same with leather jacket makers.

    Just because someone doesn't fit into a certain jacket it doesn't make it a bad pattern. This is RTW, not everyone fits in the same stuff. Some patterns are just objectively better from a technical point of view(Flattering on the body type they're made for, allow for movement, don't ride up when moving, don't put strain in the neck or shoulders, sit at the right spot for riding, the sleeve zips cuffs close up sealing the sleeve, the gussets, action backs or pleats work and aren't just for show,etc). I have seen a lot of cool jackets and I have some cool jackets that are just uncomfortable, ride up when moving and the sleeves don't allow for any movement without raising all the jacket up or becoming short.

    For example Lewis Leathers makes a hell of a comfortable jacket with a lot of movement without the sleeves or the body moving at all, at least on the Universal MKII. That doesn't happen with other brands, not even with my Freewheelers Sunset or my Himel Grizzly which both ride up and in the case of the Sunset the armhole is low and that affects movement. Maybe I expect too much but I'm used to a certain fit in Tailoring. Are they bad jackets? Not at all but not perfect in any way.

    The Sunset has a very V shape and that helps with movement with the extra room around the sleeve and chest, the sleeves don't become short when moving the arms around or in front (Riding my bike)but the shoulders do move up as does the jacket and neck area if you raise your arms to the sides or try to grab something that is on top of you so it isn't perfect at all, it has flaws. In that regard I expected better from Freewheelers after all the hype to be honest. Meanwhile I have one of their shirts and the shirt is top notch, slim but I have the best mobility in it and the higher armhole of almost all my shirts. I don't know from which year my Sunset is and things may have changed but I wouldn't say this is the best pattern of a cross zip ever, it just has a lot of details I love on it and although it feels and wears amazing it could be better with a higher armhole but that would probably mean that many people wouldn't be able to fit in it. It has a very wide biceps and tappers a lot which I believe is something typical in these cross zips.

    So let's not put any brand on a pedestal because none is perfect, not even Freewheelers. What I see as flaws on the Sunset didn't prevent me from buying another piece from them that is due to arrive on Monday but If I had paid full price I would have been disappointed with the Sunset.

    Being used to tailoring from the 20s-30s one learns to appreciate a high armhole and great movement and many of the makers with talk about here don't accomplish that.
     
  14. Spiney

    Spiney Familiar Face

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    I might need that. I’d really like a green jacket but I’m not sure I have the balls to order one.
     
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  15. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt Call Me a Cab

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    Well worn capeskin halfbelt. Interesting creases (or graining?) on the upper back.

    73B29C1D-0102-4D93-AB84-3055FE3729D9.jpeg 8A429117-AC42-49EB-A5D7-118AF44AE22D.jpeg AE24D6AF-4521-4205-94B9-B53412D4B580.jpeg 1A42504C-60F1-48C7-8777-9A715927B82D.jpeg
     
  16. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    Wow, look how high up that belt is...would be interesting to see it worn.
     
  17. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt Call Me a Cab

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    I'm not sure it's that high up. Maybe it just looks like it is because the jacket seems to be longer than the 'quintessential' halfbelt.
    E633D88D-A47E-408B-8581-16B2250A7108.jpeg 388C8274-6AF7-4CD1-B7A7-04920D3CCB65.jpeg
     
  18. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    Ah, so if it’s longer (surcoat length 27”) the placement makes sense.
    Thanks for the photo. Looks good., even the collar has a nice subtle curve to it. :)
     
  19. Bfd70

    Bfd70 Call Me a Cab

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    Anyone able to id the d pocket double rider in the nick jonas diabetes super bowl commercial?
     
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  20. jeo

    jeo Practically Family

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    https://www.instagram.com/p/CKy1WTtj0BA/?igshid=1qcjwu1stsgrt

    Haha I noticed it too. From the way the leather moves and looks, I would guess it’s a lamb leather fashion jacket. Looks cool though. In the IG post you can see how thin the leather is. Tell tale sign of lamb fashion leather. Wonder what brand it is though.
     

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