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Putting Together a Black Tie Rig

Discussion in 'Suits' started by mattmaybloom, Jan 11, 2019 at 9:31 PM.

  1. mattmaybloom

    mattmaybloom New in Town

    Messages:
    20
    Good Afternoon Gentlemen,

    I have recently acquired a beautiful 1930s tuxedo, single breasted with wide (by todays standards, anyway) satin peak lapels and matching trousers with an intricate braid running down the legs rather than the satin strip. I've always believed (which may be stupid) that a tuxedo is an item which every man (if possible) should own.

    Now that i've gotten the most important part taken care of, Id love some advice cultivating a truly classic rig.

    I really love the look of the old school stiff front shirt with detachable stiff winged collar how ever i'm not sure if there are any places to find these in the U.S. I was also interested in pairing it with a white pique waistcoat. I'm wondering if this option might be considered too formal.

    What else am i missing fellas?

    Thanks for the help,
    Matt
     
  2. GHT

    GHT I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,074
    Location:
    New Forest
    Compliments to you on your tuxedo acquisition, so, to go with it you are going to need.
    An overcoat, if you live in an area that's cold enough for a coat. A dress shirt, look at Darcy's website: http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/shirts.html Find the style that you like and start looking locally to you.
    To get your suit trousers to hang right you are going to need a pair of braces/suspenders. For authenticity go for a wide type, don't forget they must be buttoned on, no clip ons. The white piqued waistcoat is a great idea.
    For shoes and socks, you can't beat a patent leather shoe and a black sock with a discrete fair isle pattern.
    Don't forget accessories, you will need your vintage wrist watch, or better stll, a fob watch on a chain. You will also need a pair of cuff links, a white silk scarf and of course, a black bow tie. I left the tie until last because you need to know how to tie a bow tie. You can get away with a pre-tied tie, but not if you select the wing tip shirt that you spoke of. It will let all and sundry see the clasp, and you don't want that. So how do you tie a bow tie? Let Charles help you, and keep doing it over and over until you crack it. You may want a hat, my preferred choice is a black fedora, but a straw boater looks very good with a tuxedo. Don't forget to post a few pics when you are done.
     
    PeterB likes this.
  3. mattmaybloom

    mattmaybloom New in Town

    Messages:
    20
    Thanks so much for the reply,

    I forgot to mention that I already acquired a stud/cufflink set as well which includes studs for a waistcoat. I was trying to decide between patent leather oxfords and opera pumps for my shoe choice, ill probably save that for last. The trousers have buttons on the outside for braces and i was thinking of getting formal white braces to go with the white pique waistcoat and stiff front shirt (maybe I'm trying to assemble a white tie rig at the same time). I wear bowties all the time for work so that will not be an issue. I was thinking a single end bowtie which would give a sleeker appearance.

    Matt
     
  4. GHT

    GHT I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,074
    Location:
    New Forest
    My choice of shoes always gets a reaction. People think that I am wearing spats, but it's just the effect of two tone, patent leather. correspondence shoes. Not for everybody, I know, I have always been on the flamboyant side.
    shoes 19.jpg
     
  5. Edward

    Edward Bartender

    Messages:
    18,966
    Location:
    London, UK
    I bought my first pair of co-respondents back in the day for wearing with black tie. Nowadays I tend to stick with the traditionally 'correct' plain black patent shoes, but I'm not against playing about with black tie; the effect is, of course, best when you keep it to one variation, otherwise it can veer into "creative black tie" unpleasantness. :)

    A pique white waistcoat is fine with black tie, though certainly in the more formal end of black tie (it would have been typically worn in the 20s and into the early thirties as the DJ first appeared and then the notion of what black tie actually constituted gradually codified.

    I don't know about sources of shirts in the US, but it would be worth considering ordering from Darcy (especially with the strong US dollar v the pound at present) - http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/shirts.html - scroll down for the stiff-front evening shirts. All the effect of a 'real' boiled front, but machine washable. You can get them wither with a wing collar (very much the formal end of black tie, but not out of place for 30s) or designed to take one of Darcy's separate, detachable collars (stick with the wing type for this - again, boiled front is wrong - too formal - for a turn-down collar). The separate collars are available in a machine washable version, which is very nice, and you can't honestly tell the difference when worn.
     
  6. mattmaybloom

    mattmaybloom New in Town

    Messages:
    20
    Hey guys, just doing some research and noticed that brooks brothers has a stiff front shirt with a detachable collar, do any of you guys have experience with it? is it quality? It would be much easier to get to brooks brothers then to order a shirt online and have to deal with the headache of shipping.

    Matt
     
  7. GHT

    GHT I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,074
    Location:
    New Forest
    Brook Brothers have a UK outlet, I have just checked their website, £185 for a shirt that won't get that much wear is more than I would be willing to pay. Huntsman of Savile Row charge around that price. But if the shirt is handmade then you won't get it much cheaper. I know this because my wife makes my Aloha shirts. All the fabric, pattern and notions comes to about sixty pounds, it takes her ten to twelve hours to make. Ten times £20 @ hour, equals £200. You see how easily costs can rise.

    If you are happy to pay Brook Brother's price then go for it, you will probably have a shirt to be proud of for years to come.
     
    Edward likes this.
  8. Edward

    Edward Bartender

    Messages:
    18,966
    Location:
    London, UK
    BB quality seems good, certainly, but their UK prices are rather beyond what I'd be open to paying.
     
  9. mattmaybloom

    mattmaybloom New in Town

    Messages:
    20
    It is pretty expensive, I wish there was another place in NYC that I could go and see the quality firsthand

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
     

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