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Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

octopus_luke

Familiar Face
Messages
62
Location
Copenhagen
Hello fedora friends.

After some deep reflection, I realise I can't quite squeeze into my size 36 USN Peacoat, dated from 1965. So, I'm in the market for a good condition size 38S or 38R (I'm 5ft"9), from the same era or before (I like the double cuff detailing).

I'm of course already hounding eBay but, if anyone is keen to sell at a fair price and is keen to ship to either Denmark or the UK then let me know.

Likely going to keep the size 36. I bought it back in 2012 for $20. Talk about a return of investment!
 

tamz0r

Familiar Face
Messages
56
dunno if this has been discussed but wanted to get someones opinion… i have this vietnam era navy issue peacoat and when i pop the collar, the way the inner lapel unfolds, it doesnt lay flat against my upper chest/neck like i feel it should. seems like the top of the lapel goes up at an angle and ends up across my chin rather than upper chest. and the fabric in the upper chest/lapel kinda bunches? and its pr much impossible to button the top lapel button because of this.

anyone else run into this type of thing? i feel like its not supposed to be like this… perhaps an issue with the pattern?

ill post a pic that hopefully shows it better than ive described. the navy color coat is the one in question. ill also post a gray jcrew coat that doesnt have this issue, for comparison.
 

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Maxwell Von Chesapeake

A-List Customer
Messages
364
Location
Los Angeles, CA
dunno if this has been discussed but wanted to get someones opinion… i have this vietnam era navy issue peacoat and when i pop the collar, the way the inner lapel unfolds, it doesnt lay flat against my upper chest/neck like i feel it should. seems like the top of the lapel goes up at an angle and ends up across my chin rather than upper chest. and the fabric in the upper chest/lapel kinda bunches? and its pr much impossible to button the top lapel button because of this.

anyone else run into this type of thing? i feel like its not supposed to be like this… perhaps an issue with the pattern?

ill post a pic that hopefully shows it better than ive described. the navy color coat is the one in question. ill also post a gray jcrew coat that doesnt have this issue, for comparison.
I honestly think they just cut it that way. I have one that I just bought from 1972 that seems to do pretty much the same thing. J. Crew would be far more conscious of this sort of thing, since they prioritize style over warmth.
 

Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,269
Location
South of Nashville
It shouldn't do that and needs to be retrained.

Put the lapel in the proper position, spray the wool until it is a bit damp and then weight it down with books* or other heavy object and let the coat dry. Place a towel between the lapel and the inside back of the coat so that the back doesn't get wet. It should be good to go when dry.

You don't want to get it too damp as it will take too long to dry and may develop mildew.
_____
* But first protect the books from damage from moisture.
 

89five.o

New in Town
Messages
9
First post here. Apologies if this has been covered. I'm looking to replace my cheap XL Old Navy peacoat with an authentic U.S. Navy peacoat that has a bit more room and length. I've stumbled across this one and was wondering if I could get some info on it. I believe it would be 1980s or later correct? I'm a bigger guy and have measured myself to be 46" around the chest and am 6'2", 255lbs. I have longer arms, and typically wear a 36/37 length sleeve in dress shirts. Just curious if this is worth pursuing. Thanks!

DSCP Quarterdeck Enlisted Men's Overcoat 46L U.S. Navy Wool Heavy Peacoat Black

Measured flat:
Armpit to armpit 24"
Armpit to hem 23.5"
Shoulder to shoulder seam 19.5"
Inseam sleeve 18"
Waist 24"
Hem 25.5"
Length 36"
Chest Size 48" (Jacket tag states a 46L, so not sure here)
Material is 100% wool. Lining is 100% nylon.
Heavy pea coat, double breasted. Pockets in front.
Fully lined. Interior pocket. Very good condition.
 

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Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,062
inseam sleeve looks a bit short at 18", but I am not sure how this pattern is built. Most of my jacket/coat sleeve inseam is around 20" and my dress shirt sleeve/nape is 35".

Best to ask the seller to give you the sleeve length measured from the shoulder seam down to cuff, then add half of the shoulder width to see if the tatal will clear your 36/37" dress shirt sleeve length.
 

Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,269
Location
South of Nashville
This is a size 46L. The p2p may be 24", but to get the chest size of the coat, We double the p2p and subtract 2.

And yes, it is 1980 or later, probably a 2002 edition.

This will be black in color and won't be the coveted Kersey wool shell.
 

89five.o

New in Town
Messages
9
Thank you for the information. Measuring my old coat I get true size of 50 (26*2-2), inseam I get 19.5", Shoulder width I get 23", waist width I get 25", and length I get 31" (not 100% this was measured correctly) Looking at the Old Navy site it has the below listed for their peacoats in XL which us what I I have. Sleeve length could be about an inch longer on my coat and I wish the coat were longer overall as well. So it sounds like I need to confirm sleeve length mostly on that one for sale.
 

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89five.o

New in Town
Messages
9
Ended up getting this response from the seller:

From the top of the sleeve seam to the cuff hem it is 27 in.
From the inside armpit sleeve seam to the cuff hem it is 18.5 in.
From the center back neck to the cuff hem it is 36 in.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,062
27"+(19.5"/2) = 36.75" total sleeve length from center back. It would clear your 36/37" dress shirt sleeve length. Assuming the seller measured correctly. Always nice to see a measure photo with the tape on, like below.
IMG_0682.JPG
 

89five.o

New in Town
Messages
9
Going to go ahead and give it a go. Only other one I'm really seeing in this size is this one below, but I suspect being 46XL it may be a bit too long. What all do R, L, XL correspond to? Is it just the jacket length, or does it include sleeve length and overall size of the coat as well?
 

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spoonbelly1950

New in Town
Messages
35
Going to go ahead and give it a go. Only other one I'm really seeing in this size is this one below, but I suspect being 46XL it may be a bit too long. What all do R, L, XL correspond to? Is it just the jacket length, or does it include sleeve length and overall size of the coat as well?
How tall are you? I'm 6-2 and have 2 DSCP coats. One is a 1995 46XL and the other is a 2002 46XL. The 1995 is a tinch tighter as the buttons have been sewn 1/4 inch closer to the right side. The 2002 feels normal
P.S. I'm not new here. I did take a couple of peacoat years off.
P.P.S. Borh bodies and the sleeves fit me great . They are not too long.
 
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89five.o

New in Town
Messages
9
How tall are you? I'm 6-2 and have 2 DSCP coats. One is a 1995 46XL and the other is a 2002 46XL. The 1995 is a tinch tighter as the buttons have been sewn 1/4 inch closer to the right side. The 2002 feels normal
P.S. I'm not new here. I did take a couple of peacoat years off.
I'm also 6'2. Weigh 255 lbs. Longish arms 36/37 in dress shirts. The 46L DSCP is made by Bremen-Bowdon and I can get it for like $95 shipped. The 46XL made by Sterlingwear of Boston is like $135 but I could probably talk them down some. How can you tell the years on the DSCPs? I've posted photos of the tags of both coats in question. Thanks.
 

spoonbelly1950

New in Town
Messages
35
The labels for the DSCPs are on the inside pocket on the right side of the coat under the front buttons. On the 6th line of the labei is the "contract : SP01001 02 D 0 0303 The number 02 is the manufactured year = 2002
My 1995 coat, which is a Bremen Bowdon, has a 95 in the contract number. My 2002 is also a Sterlingwear.
 
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Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,269
Location
South of Nashville
How tall are you? I'm 6-2 and have 2 DSCP coats. One is a 1995 46XL and the other is a 2002 46XL. The 1995 is a tinch tighter as the buttons have been sewn 1/4 inch closer to the right side. The 2002 feels normal
P.S. I'm not new here. I did take a couple of peacoat years off.
P.P.S. Borh bodies and the sleeves fit me great . They are not too long.
Hey Spoon: What happened to your original account?
 

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