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Questions and Answers -- General Attire

avedwards

Call Me a Cab
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2,425
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London and Midlands, UK
I think Kyboots originally meant a matching bowtie and cummerbund which were not black are incorrect. A bowtie and cummerbund should match if they are both black, but if the cummerbund is a different colour (such as burgundy) it should not match the bow tie. The underlying point is that the bowtie should always be black but whilst black is more common for a cummerbund it is sometimes acceptable to have a more colourful one.
 

Lokar

A-List Customer
Messages
383
Location
Nowhere
Ok, here is a really basic question. Where is your waist line? I believe it is around my belly button. Is this so?

It's generally a little higher than there - it's the thinnest point on a person of normal weight. Google provided the following image. Line number 3 is the waistline. However, the waistband of trousers were not always at the waist, even during the "Golden Era". It's been a little higher, a little lower, a long time ago it was a lot higher, and it's currently a lot lower.

measure.jpg




As for the cummerbund - there's no way to talk about whether the bow tie or cummerbund should match or anything like that. Very simply, the bow tie must be black, while the cummerbund can be able reasonable colour, although I find black looks the best (and a waistcoat far superior).
 
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Feraud

Bartender
Messages
17,190
Location
Hardlucksville, NY
I think Kyboots originally meant a matching bowtie and cummerbund which were not black are incorrect. A bowtie and cummerbund should match if they are both black, but if the cummerbund is a different colour (such as burgundy) it should not match the bow tie. The underlying point is that the bowtie should always be black but whilst black is more common for a cummerbund it is sometimes acceptable to have a more colourful one.

The bowtie doesn't always have to be black..
1951_01_Esq_p107_crop3.jpg

-image from the excellent black tie guide
http://www.blacktieguide.com/
 

Lokar

A-List Customer
Messages
383
Location
Nowhere
Well, to quote the black tie guide:

The term “black tie” says it all. When it comes to classic tuxedo neckwear, the only allowable color other than ebony is midnight blue - and that’s solely because it is considered blacker than black. Any other hue will “make you look like you are nostalgic for the worst excesses of the 1980s” in the words of menswear authority Nicholas Antongiavanni.

It does mention having a maroon bow tie, but only as an exception, in warm weather, with lots of other conditions.

I also feel that's very much a US idea - especially as we don't have warm weather in the UK ;)
 

Feraud

Bartender
Messages
17,190
Location
Hardlucksville, NY
Yes I realize colors may be used with exceptions but the idea needs to be out there. Too many times we read these absolute statements, "In the old days they never..."

Here is another great use of color.
1955_05_Esq_p109.jpg
 

AntonAAK

Practically Family
Messages
628
Location
London, UK
I think those outfits do look good and would consider wearing them to an informal summer party. But I would not wear them to an event where the invitation stipulated Black Tie.

I'm afraid I think that is an absolute. Black tie means black tie. White tie means white tie. As pleasing as the above outfits might be they do not fulfil those criteria.
 

AntonAAK

Practically Family
Messages
628
Location
London, UK
Where, other than eBay, can I go about finding a leather pocket watch strap, worn in the jacket breast pocket? For instance, does any niche specialist make these new?

By the way, does anyone know an answer to this? I'd very much like to buy one of these too.
 

AntonAAK

Practically Family
Messages
628
Location
London, UK
I do like that pale blue jacket though with the striped blue bow tie. Maybe it could get an outing for the dreaded Cocktail Attire invitations?
 

Feraud

Bartender
Messages
17,190
Location
Hardlucksville, NY
The blue outfit looks good and would work nicely for a summer evening cocktail outing.
How about that crazy cummerbund/vest piece?
It gives me that "it's so odd I like it" feeling. :)
 

AntonAAK

Practically Family
Messages
628
Location
London, UK
I don't think I like it. I'm assuming the blue outfit is the same but I would definitely keep my jacket buttoned if wearing one of those. Or fold the points under so it looks like a regular cummerbund.
 

Yeps

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,456
Location
Philly
I have a quick question for you tie guys:
What was the usual knot to tie a tie in the mid fifties? Also, how wide were ties around then?
 

kyboots

Practically Family
I have a quick question for you tie guys:
What was the usual knot to tie a tie in the mid fifties? Also, how wide were ties around then?
My Dad used a half-Windsor or a Prince Albert knot as that's what he taught me. Ties were slightly narrower than the 40's, but were going down to the narrowest of the 60's.------John ( BTW Brooks Brothers has a great online description of these and how to tie them. It is excellent if you need to learn )
 
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Yeps

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,456
Location
Philly
Does anyone happen to have, or know a good source for, a pattern for men's Hollywood waist trousers? I was thinking it would be cool to try to make a pair in linen for the summer.
 

fluteplayer07

One Too Many
Messages
1,844
Location
Michigan
I have a rayon (I think) bowling shirt that once belonged to my late uncle. Sentimentally, it's one of the most valuable articles of clothing I own. The back of the shirt is decorated with felt lettering, advertising the name of the bowling alley club. The felt is very delicate, and even my trusted dry-cleaner's of many years refused to handle it. He hand-washed it cold, and the fabric didn't appear to shrink, but the letters are now a little more faded, and a bit yellowed. How do I safely wash it so it lasts as long as possible? I do plan to wear it (not often, but occasionally), and I'd like to preserve it as long as I can. I'm thinking of having the letters copied so that when they do inevitably wear down, I could have new ones applied.

Any advice?

How do you guys wash old casual clothes? Rayon shrits, gab shirts, etc? Washing machine, hand, dry cleaners?

Thanks,
 

Yeps

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,456
Location
Philly
I don't really have old casual clothes, but I would think that hand washing is probably the best bet.
 

Yeps

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,456
Location
Philly
I am going to bump this up a bit.

Does anyone know where I can get a pattern for fishtail trousers? Or hollywood waist trousers. I would like to try and make a pair of heavy linen, high-waisted trousers, and, aside from the fabric, I need a pattern.

Also, any chance we can sticky this? I think it would save time and clutter in the General Attire forum.
 

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