I am interested in buying one of the Cossacks from Bill Kelso, but I saw quite a few Cossack from their site, the Cossack and Aeronaut A1, also the 1930's Summers Sportwear Cossack Jacket under their Archive lines. Does anyone know what their difference is? From the picture I just notice the difference in facing stitching for Cossack and Aeronaut A1. Moreover, does anyone get hold of the Cossack / Aeronaut A1 size 36 or 38? What is the sleeve length of these sizes? I normally wear a 36S RTW suit, but usually find the sleeve 1-2cm longer than appropriate. I have once the chance to try on a size 38 BK Wingman, and found the shoulder, chest, waist and length perfectly fit for me, but the sleeves got all the way to midway between my knuckles and wrist. The salesperson told me it was designed this way as it was a Biker jacker and intended to cover my hand dorsum. I have emailed BK on the sizing matter, but so far have not heard from them. Many thanks! Terence
You only have to worry about sleeve length if you buy off the rack from one of BK's stockists like American Classics London: https://www.americanclassicslondon.com/collections/bill-kelso/products/bill-kelso If you order directly from BK it would be a custom order which means you can have any sleeve length you want.
I do have two BK leather jackets and both belong to my best fitting leather jackets as shoulder-chest-hem-sleeve proportions are just perfect for me. I actually do have the Aeronaut A-1 made of their fantastic Victory Horsehide - this leather feels like pure luxury (like a 10k leather sofa or so). I took size 38R (regular) on both with pit to pit 51.5cm and shoulder to cuff measurements of 63cm. In this case I would recommend to choose size 36L/38L (long) as: Short sizes are one (1) inch shorter than regural sizes (body and sleeves). Long sizes are one (1) longer than regular sizes (body and sleeves). Except Japanese makers sleeves are usually too long for me (e.g. Thedi Leathers) but in this case size 38R is just perfect. Here's my modified Aeronaut Cadet size 38R (russet Badalassi cowhide):
Of course, custom Size (measurements to include knits, if any) (+£50.00) I think they are closed at the moment but I'm sure Andy will get back to you shortly like he normally does - I sent him a question about 2-3 weeks ago and first received following notification but after two days he got back to me: Please note our government imposed quarantine and lockdown again to all shops from the first week of November until further notice. We ask for your understanding as there will be a delay in answering your messages. If you have an outstanding jacket order currently in our production we apologize in advance for the delay due to this unprecedented "force majeure". Needless to say all previously given delivery estimates are to be considered null and void. For the time being we are trying to continue the work "under the radar" of the authorities because the fines if we get caught are huge. However, under these circumstances we cannot work full time and as such progress is much slower. We can assure you that upon our opening we will be working double time in order to catch up and deliver your jackets. We promise to deliver your jackets sooner or later. We would like to thank you all for your patience and support and hope you are safe and sound.
Hi Robbie thanks for your detailed info! Really nice jackets you have! May I ask what modification have you made to the two jackets?
Tip: when deciding on sleeve length you should also take shoulder width into account. The wider the shoulder, the longer the relative length of the sleeves.