RARE 1930s Wraparound Overcoat

[Marc Chevalier]

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Back in the '30s, the "wraparound" overcoat was very popular with Hollywood actors, bandleaders, and their imitators. Basically, it's a coat without any buttons; you just wrap it around yourself with a sash (which has no belt buckle). I suppose it has a certain unstudied, sporty panache to it. Call it a bathrobe for streetwear.


These '30s vintage wraparounds are virtually impossible to find today. I've run into only 2 in the past 15 years. Coincidentally, they were the same color and had the same weave. Below is one (not mine) that was recently sold on eBay. It was made between 1933 and 1935.


Note the raglan shoulders, the peak lapels, and the incredible detailing on the overcoat's back: inverted pleats!




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[clevispin]

Hey - My ma's got one of those! She usually wears it in the morning after lighting up that first smoke and before she puts her teeth in.

m

 

[herringbonekid]

i love the back.
but that front is just a bit too much like dressing gown.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Hey - My ma's got one of those! She usually wears it in the morning after lighting up that first smoke and before she puts her teeth in.

Yeah, they're bathrobe-like. For some reason, though, the style looked good on Duke Ellington and Errol Flynn. You can see a white one on Gene Kelly in the opening scene of Singin' in the Rain.



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[Dinerman]

i think you'd get some awfully funny looks walking around in that today.

 

[Orgetorix]

i think you'd get some awfully funny looks walking around in that today.

Why? I see people walking around in their pyjamas all the time!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

i love the back.

A detail that was borrowed from military greatcoats.


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[Orgetorix]

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Note the raglan shoulders, the peak lapels, and the incredible detailing on the overcoat's back: inverted pleats!.

What are raglan shoulders? I've also seen this term referring to sleeves. What does it mean?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

It means that the shoulders are rounded; the seam is not vertical, but diagonal. Look closely at the second photo. See it?

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[Orgetorix]

Ah, yes. I see now. Thanks. Any idea where the term came from?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Another example of a "fancy back" from a 1930s (nonmilitary) overcoat:

 

[Tomasso]

Here's a modern version.

 

[Salv]

Ah, yes. I see now. Thanks. Any idea where the term came from?

It came from the first Baron Raglan, the Crimean War general who gave the order which resulted in the Charge of the Light Brigade. I vaguely remember reading that he designed the sleeve himself after noticing that his cavalry had problems swinging their sabres while wearing greatcoats with normal sleeves. The raglan sleeve offers more movement as there's no seam to bunch up at the shoulder.

The style nowadays is most commonly found in sportswear:

 

[GateXC]

Ah, yes. I see now. Thanks. Any idea where the term came from?

As with the cardigan sweater (named for Lord Cardigan - commander of the Light Calvalry), the raglan sleeve came out of the Crimean War as well, named for the commander of the British forces, Lord Raglan.

 

[Wild Root]

I'd like to have one of these! I like the idea, it's different and something that would be kind of fun to wear seeing most stars or band leaders of the time liked them... today, anything goes and I'm willing to bet my paycheck that no one would even make a comment about it being like a bathrobe.

Say Marc, if you find one in my size, kick it down to me will ya!

=WR=

 

[Happy Stroller]

Marc, are you sure you're not trying to pull our leg?

At most, I'd grant it's a bathrobe used at seaside resorts.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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[Wild Root]

And I second that...

Take another look at it, it's made of heavy top-coat fabric! The construction alone is that of a top-coat!

Some forget who they're talking to

=WR=

 

[Senator Jack]

Having seen them in film, I always thought this was a very common coat, but now that it's been mentioned, I don't think I ever had my hands on one at any price. Dim memory...but I seem to recall it on John Barrymore in 20th Century.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Those coats were all over the place in Hollywood films. I'm not sure if anyone outside of Hollywood (or the big band circuit) ever wore them.

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