RMC J-24

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Bfd70, Feb 26, 2021.

  1. Bfd70

    Bfd70 Call Me a Cab

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    Warning: This thread is likely to be meandering and long with no clear purpose.

    As @jeo correctly recalled in another thread, I have on several occasions commented on other peoples pictures that the D-pocket double rider is my favorite jacket to look at. However, despite being a 25 year motorcyclist, I couldn’t help but feel the aesthetic was too “biker” for me as I am 10% biker 90% soccer dad carpool driver. Well, I must have seen one too many boss photos on TFL and insta and decided to take the plunge. No guts no glory.
    Requirements for this double rider purchase were that it had to have a D pocket, and be new or lightly used. I wasn’t interested in a legit vintage. A variable strongly weighted but not required is that all things being otherwise equal I prefer otr to custom. My build tends to work for a lot of stock makers and one only needs to read a few write ups on tfl to know that custom is no guarantee of perfect fit. I prefer the ability to put a jacket right back in the box and head to the post office for a return rather than wait 8 weeks and then start the “hey the sleeves are way to short” email chain.
    I considered the following options. I’ll briefly state why they were eliminated from consideration.

    Aero Daytona: I think they make a good product at a fair price. Most of the ones I’ve seen lack rear gussets. Without those my experience is that vintage patterns tend to restrict movement. I would definitely need to add them. I suppose what eliminated Aero was that all of the recent pictures I’ve seen of the daytona were in vicenza. I think this leather has some very good properties but at the end of the day it doesn’t wow me. Also, i can’t recall anyone saying their blackened brown is actually showing any brown (a feature i kinda dig). I really didn’t consider the j106 because @ton312 is the only person i’ve seen post one up and our builds are really different so i just didn’t have a strong point of reference for fit.

    Field Manhattan: Like so many here I love the romance suggested by the idea of the one man operation. Of course the down time to that business model is extended lead times. There is a reason I’m not in the GW line and it isn’t because i dont like his stuff.

    Schott 1950s: This checks some nice boxes. Price, availability, return-ability. Cons: They don’t give measurements and I haven’t seen one picture where i thought it fit the wearer well. I hate the lining.

    Elmc roadstar: Same pros as schott though the price is higher it’s not terrible. Cons they do provide numbers and they’re really off for me. To get the right chest means short sleeves and short back length. Further it just doesn’t WOW me. That’s just a thing you feel or don’t and maybe can’t explain.

    Lost worlds J-23. This got the most consideration. I’ve owned two LW and while the copy is hyperbolic I think any reference to quality and durability is fairly accurate. I exchanged several emails with LW . There were 2 places i got hung up. First, they custom make from established size patterns. The smallest patterns they use they assign the size 38 to. The numbers were pretty good but potentially a little off for me. This goes back to the “hey, i got the jacket and it’s really nice but...” thing. Second, I believe they truly make an heirloom jacket in terms of durability. That’s really cool. It also means that if you live in a town where if your lucky you’ll get 16 weeks of wear (which for me can mean 10 minute drive back and forth to work) it can take years to break in. I just don’t find that fun.

    Rmc J-24. Pros: Of the group it’s the one that always looked best to me. The proportions favor my build. The numbers are posted and looked perfect. It’s available and returnable. Cons: It’s really silly expensive. Honestly I think anything past the $600 mark means I have more money than sense. The way I overcame this hurdle is by recognizing that so often on Tfl jackets are not so much owned as “rented” with that in mind I figure that both the RMC and Aero would be likely be a $700 “rental fee.”

    Now that I have the Rmc (For a whole day (Though in that day I got 3 compliments, two from my wife who is typically indifferent)) here are my initial impressions:
    Otr fit: For me it’s just spot on. I couldn’t have spec’d it better. I went with a 40. By most accounts I am a 36. I could wear a 38 with just a tshirt if my only activity in it was posturing. To get the most use i need to fit a sweatshirt under. I also try and leaving posturing for Saturdays only.
    Leather: The depth of color is amazing. It’s black as sin but somehow you look at it and wonder if it’s a really dark shade of brown. I’d name it dark roast coffee. It is surprisingly thin. This is a wear about town jacket definitely not an on the bike jacket. As that was my intention it’s not a problem and i think it will mold to my body very quickly.
    Liner: Laughably thin and feels cheaply made. I’ve handled tons of schott and Vanson and their quilted liners are all better. Disappointing at the price. That said, knowing rmc’s attention to detail perhaps the weight is historically accurate.
    Zippers: I’m sure these are historically accurate. They are also silly small. If this becomes a forever jacket for me I’m sure i will break the main and send it to Johnsons for a beefing up repair.
    We’re just hitting full time leather jacket season here. I’m going to live in this for a bit and then update.

    1AB5C04C-8629-46CA-A28B-A68F7C4561D8.jpeg 1B3BB6AF-5CC4-4F99-8F83-0F419B809290.jpeg 6D798DDA-A4E4-4F78-86AC-CD553D0EAE1F.jpeg
     
  2. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    That's as good a fit as you could expect from a custom jacket, it's really super nice.
    I also think it really suits you, IMO you definitely look naturally cool in this, it's not forced.
    IMO this and the LW J-23 are the best two of your list and you nailed it with this one, not sure a LW would have been any better. Heavier maybe, but not better...

    Does it come with a fur collar?

    As i said in the other thread, i think you shoudl try the JH-1 too, it would really suite you i think.
    It's a bit more low key too which you might like more than the J-24.
     
    dannyk likes this.
  3. MrProper

    MrProper One Too Many

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    Really good fit and looks cool also in the car ;)
     
  4. Blackadder

    Blackadder Call Me a Cab

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    Nice. IMO, the LW J-23 size 38 would have been too big for you. I had one and sold it because it doesn't fit.
    If not mistaken, only the J-24L comes with the fur collar these days.
     
    dannyk likes this.
  5. Mich486

    Mich486 One Too Many

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    1,416
    The jacket is superb and I don’t see what more one could ask fit wise. I think you really nailed it with this one!
     
  6. Will Zach

    Will Zach One Too Many

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    Perfect fit. It is nuts that you take a 40 in RMC sizing, being a true 36. I remember some of your wonderful CRs for sale and I could not buy any because they were too small for me and I am a true 38.
     
  7. Jin431

    Jin431 One Too Many

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    Perfect fit! That's the best fitting J24 I've seen and it's off the rack sizing too. Sweet! Can't wait to get my own J24
     
  8. AeroFan_07

    AeroFan_07 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Nice fit there and as per the photos it appears to look good on you. That said, I would ask you to consider sending it back, here's why (all from your statements):
    • Liner: Laughably thin and feels cheaply made. I’ve handled tons of schott and Vanson and their quilted liners are all better.
    • Leather: The depth of color is amazing. It’s black as sin but somehow you look at it and wonder if it’s a really dark shade of brown. I’d name it dark roast coffee. It is surprisingly thin. (unless you really like this)
    • Zippers: I’m sure these are historically accurate. They are also silly small (Will say they do look very sharp though...)
    For the price you paid for this, I would expect none of these compromises. Unless of course you "really" like it. These are just my thoughts...it's very nice looking. Will you have to treat it very gently? This is what you will have to decide.
     
    ai00344, dannyk and Jin431 like this.
  9. ton312

    ton312

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    I think this looks superb and would say without hesitation it's the best fitting cross zip you've had to date. I'm surprised to hear the hide is thin. I thought the shinki on these was 3oz? It certainly doesn't look thin. The fit is spot on. There is no way to improve upon that fit and a custom likely would not have fit as well. Congrats man!
     
  10. BloodEagle

    BloodEagle One of the Regulars

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    114
    Location:
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    Awesome looking jacket - it really does suit you from looking at those photos, and what a fit - as has been said already sincerely I doubt you’d get better if it had been custom made. As far as your cons go, as the owner of a RMC J24L I’ve got my own perspective on them - which I flatter myself will be of interest to anyone haha.

    The liner - yes, the padded lining is the same on mine, it’s not as plush and slinky as some I’ve had before. I don’t think it feels cheap, just very robust and roadworthy my understanding is that RMC have used the exact same liner material (or as near as possible) to the originals, so it goes with the territory to a certain extent I guess.
    The leather - doesn’t feel thin to me at all, compared to my original J22 it is in the same ballpark, certainly feels robust enough to protect me if I rode, which I don’t.
    Zip - Again, yes, it does feel small compared to a Schott etc, but I don’t notice it at all when I wear it so it’s a non issue. If it were a big chunky thing it would dominate and spoil the whole look of the front I think.

    All these points Id be willing to offset against the fact that it looks so badass however - the cut and the way it hangs is pretty much the coolest (in my opinion of course)
     
    dudewuttheheck likes this.
  11. dudewuttheheck

    dudewuttheheck Call Me a Cab

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    Wow that fits you so incredibly well. Looks pretty much custom made. Absolutely beautiful jacket. You're making me really wish that I could fit into one of those.
     
  12. jonesy86

    jonesy86 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Keeper.
     
    dudewuttheheck likes this.
  13. Bfd70

    Bfd70 Call Me a Cab

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    It’s great that the all of the first members to reply have been an inspiration in my lust of the crosszip.
    Yes only the J-24L comes with the fur. The numbers are a bit different and these worked better

     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2021
  14. Bfd70

    Bfd70 Call Me a Cab

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    I am very satisfied with the jacket. Definitely going to keep it. The shoulder/chest fit is just perfect.Of the “cons” mentioned the only that really stands out is the liner.
    The zippers are akin to the aero line so not terrible but most recently coming from the IH which has teeth like a comb it was more noticeable than annoying. Re “thin leather” that i suppose was comparing it to a vanson or a hh schott. Thickness is akin to vicenza. This isnt a riding jacket for sure, but i dont need it to be. While i do think thick hides look cool af I equally value not wearing a suit of armor.
    All of the other makers had more substantial (for me) short comings.
     
  15. Bfd70

    Bfd70 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
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    Ps
    Carlos, adder, proper, ton, aero
    This is really you of your fault
    Oh yeah sweet and leong too
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2021
    ton312, dannyk and Carlos840 like this.
  16. red devil

    red devil My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    I will parrot @Carlos840 , you wouldn't get a better fit going custom. It looks amazing on you! Now you need another on in deerskin or red... your choice :D
     
    dannyk likes this.
  17. Blackadder

    Blackadder Call Me a Cab

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    Oh yeah, the zipper. Those are notorious. Almost all my friends have had experienced the teeth separating in the middle after zipping up. Normally I'd advise putting some vaseline on it once in a while to ease the pressure on the repro talon pull but I wonder if the vaseline would actually contribute to the teeth separating.
     
  18. AeroFan_07

    AeroFan_07 My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Ok well as long as you like it! Just kind of sounded in your original post that you had reservations.

    By all means - keep & enjoy it! :)
     
    dannyk likes this.
  19. Blackadder

    Blackadder Call Me a Cab

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    There is another maker who produces almost exact copy of RM's J-24 at a cheaper price. Leather is not shiniki but pretty close. Not easy to get access though.
     
    Jin431 likes this.
  20. Blackadder

    Blackadder Call Me a Cab

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    Rather than reservations, it seems to me that he loves the leather (color) and the fit (owing to a thinner quilt). The zipper looks sharp but may not be practical. It is actually less problematic than Aero's because the leather is not as thick as the CXL. Of all the 2nd hand RM I have seen on Yahoo Auction JP, less than a handful have broken zippers. The problem is as said the teeth separating in the middle. You can still zip and unzip as usual just have to be careful about putting too much pressure on the teeth i.e. try not to zip up after a feast ;).
     

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