Rope Shoulders on Canali Suits

[Feraud]

I once had a navy peacoat that had roped shoulders and very high cut armholes. It was a chore to put on but felt great once buttoned!
The silhouette looked just like the picture of Okisaka.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

The photo below shows what is now popularly known as a "Neapolitan" shoulder. There's nothing new (or uniquely Neapolitan) about it, but Kiton loves to promote the thing.

 

[Mr. Rover]

I personally don't like the look of most neopolitan shoulders. They make the arms look like they're separate from the rest of the body. Although, if properly done, I admire the tailoring that goes into making it because it apparently uses more material in the arm but tapers to the armhole, sometimes through pleating or puckering at the sleevehead.
Also, note the drape at the chest, shown by the pleat between the chest and sleeve.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I've always thought roped shoulders to be very dressy, might have something to do with their military roots.

Good point. Roped shoulders have a military origin, and they were extremely pronounced on men's civilian coats in the early to mid 1800s. Beau Brummel wore unbelievable examples ...

.

 

[Martinis at 8]

...Sometimes it goes to far and you get the toy soldier look...

Well said. This is the point I am trying to make. The new Canalis I looked at had an exagerrated rope.

Roping as a tailoring technique is fine, however exagerration for the sake of fashion does not fall into my definition of sartorial excellence.

Cheers,

M8

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

I'm a fan of subtle roping. This, for example, from Hideki Okisaka:

bk

NICE.

I love the look of that suit. The roping really compliments the fact that it is a 3pc SBPL, in my opinion. I'd wear it with a different shirt/tie combo, but the suit itself is a winner.

 

[Nonchalant]

That picture of Hideiki Okisaka above has tempted me to emerge from my lurking and show you all some pictures of a DB suit I have. It is from the mid-1930s, with a belted back.


Jovan, I know, I still look like John Turturro to you.

Roped shoulder, or just in need of a good pressing?

 

[Matt Deckard]

rad suit nonchalant.

 

[Feraud]

It looks roped. Btw, love the ascot!

Jovan, I know, I still look like John Turturro to you.

Roped shoulder, or just in need of a good pressing?

 

[Jovan]

Well really, who can argue? It's uncanny.

I'm not a huge fan of roped shoulders. Prefer natural.

 

[Feng_Li]

It depends on the wearer's build, no? Some men benefit from that shoulder construction, others do not.

I, for example, am both tall and slope-shouldered, and my face is long and narrow. I tend to prefer a more natural shoulder, which I understand to be the best style for my build.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Thom Browne's suits (his regular line, not his Brooks Brosthers) are constructed very similarly to the suit you have, BK, where the shoulder wadding extends into the sleeve.